HELP!!!! sick fish, please fast

[Snelly40]

ok , i have a 2 set ups going.
should i dip the clown in a saturated dip of formalin and then add her to the water (uncycled) with normal dose of formalin???
also, if i add cycled water from my tank with formalin will that help of is the brooklynella is that water just gonna make it worse???

can i put any formalin in the main tank to help that too???

[Woodstock]

Choose either to dip (stonger solution) or an extended bath (weaker solution);Choose one method.

NO. Never add medication to your reef.

Treatment Recommendation Suggestions range from copper, malachite green and other remedies, with some recommended being used in conjunction with formaldehyde. However the general consensus is these types of medications are either largely ineffective or do not work at all, and that the best and most effective treatment for Brooklynella is formaldehyde alone. Typically a standard 37% formalin solution (shop & compare prices) is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container, intitially all fish are given a quick dip or a prolonged bath, followed by continued treatment and care in a QT. Of course the longer fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this "disease". Whether to administer a dip or a bath to start with is something you will have to determine yourself, but there's a very simple way to do this.

[Snelly40]

ok

[Snelly40]

i got the tank going, with uncycled water and one going with cycled water but that is from my tank water where the fish came from. if i leave this for a few with the formalin will that kill the disease and then i can add the fish to it after like a day in the uncycled water???

[Woodstock]

I am not certain how long it takes the formalin to kill the disease in contaminated water.

Watch the fish closely during the dip. Make sure you keep it aerated.

[Woodstock]

Here is more infor on the formalin dip found at the link I posted above.

Formaldehype is most effective at ridding fish of common parasitic protozoan Black Spot, Clownfish, and White Spot marine ich infestations, as well as flukes, lice, and fungal diseases that both fresh and saltwater fishes can contract. Although a toxic chemical that is hazardous in its pure form, by purchasing and using a standard over-the-counter "formalin" product, typically a 37% solution of formaldehype diluted with water (compare prices), it's rather easy to treat ich diseased fish.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: Varies
Here's How:

1. Set up a quarantine tank, providing it with vigorous aeration. Even though hyposalinity does not cure ich infestations, lowering the specific gravity of the QT water to about 1.010 ppm can help to keep any possible new free-swimming organisms from reinfecting the fish.
2. Prepare a container with treatment water, mixed per the directions on a manufacturer's formalin product (compare prices). Include vigorous aeration of the treatment water, such as inserting an air stone. Because harmful ammonia can build-up in the water during treatment, it is recommended to add AmQuel (compare prices) to avoid complications that can occur from ammonia burn.
3. Prepare another container, preferably with lowered salinity 1.010 ppm water. This will be used to give fish a quick dip in after they have been taken out of the treatment water, which will assist in removing weakened or dead parasites, mucus or other unwanted organic matter from the fish before placing them into the QT.
4. When all is ready place the fish into the formalin treatment container, proceeding per the instructions for the formalin product you are using, and by referencing the dip and bath timing and other important tips below.
5. Once the treatment is finished, depending on the stress level of any particular fish at this time, give each a quick 30 second, one or two mintue dip in the second container of water, and then place them into the QT.
6. All fish should remain in the QT for at least 4 weeks, and during the quarantine period you should:
   • A) Continue treatment with formalin as instructed.
     B) Treat preventatively for potential secondary bacterial infections with an appropriate antibiotic or antibacterial medication.
     C) Leave the main aquarium void of fish. This will allow the protozoa to run their life cycle and dye off, and prevent reinfestation.

Tips:

1. Dip Timing Tip: Fish in the advanced stage of this disease will already be very weak and stressed, and most likely on the verge of dying. An animal in this condition may only be able to tolerate a full-strength treatment for a few minutes, not at all, or might die during the procedure. If this is a concern, by diluting down the recommended formalin dosage for treatment, an extremely ill fish might hold up better as well as withstand longer exposure time.
2. Bath Timing Tip: In all likelihood a fish that is still in rather fair health should be able to withstand a minimum 15 minute bath. If no signs of distress arise after 15 mintues, continue and extend the treatment to 30, and if possible up to 60 minutes.
3. Overall Treatment Tip: Do not leave fish unattended at any time during a dip or bath treatment of any kind. Watch them closely, and if any fish shows signs of distress, remove it immediately!
4. Urgent Treatment Tip: If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief may be provided by giving fish a freshwater dip/bath. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, and reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems. Once the initial dip/bath is done, place the fish into the QT under hyposalinity treatment, and obtain a formalin medication as soon as possible to begin treatment.
5. Formaldehyde is a toxic liquid, and therefore should be used with caution! Always follow the directions for proper usage. Although it is effective for treating external protozoan and parasite infestations, as well as fungal diseases, overdosing or exposing fish to this medication too frequently may cause additional injury, and even death. It is harmful to invertebrates, and should NOT be added to a main aquarium. It should only be used in a QT, and for making up treatment dip/bath water.

What You Need:

• QT
• 37% formalin solution
• Fresh & saltwater
• 2 treatment containers of choice
• AmQuel, or another suitable ammonia buffer/destroyer product.
• Antibiotic or antibacterial medication

[kathywithbirds]

I hope she does OK. My fishies are rooting for her.

[Snelly40]

i have done everything above, she is still kicking, fingers crossed.
but, i cant empty my tank of all the fish!!!!
what do i do?

[Woodstock]

I am VERY glad she is alive still.

Since the QT is not cycled, you will be battling deadly ammonia and nitrite spikes in a day or so... Do you have any bioballs or sponges from the main display that you can use in the QT? Maybe even a rock? Something from the main display that will be coated with nitrifying bacteria.
Also, daily water changes on the QT may be necessary so get some saltwater ready.
Purchase an Ammonia Alert sticker from Seachem. It will change colors as ammonia rises and it great to have so you can check the ammonia level at a glance.

[Snelly40]

i have the sponge from my skimmer, or a filter sock, i can try to find a rock that is not crucial to the structure. i do have rubble from my fuge actually that will probably work.
i will go buy extra saltwater for daily water changes

[Snelly40]

kind of sad, although man cinnamon clowns do not use carpet anemone's, m new carpet just got delivered, hopefully she gets healthy and can someda use her new home.
ps. it is beautiful, and as i am acclimating it i'd say it is 5 inches accross, so im excited to see it expand!!!

[Woodstock]

Congrats on your new purchase!

[caitrina]

You're going to make me

Hope your fish gets well and glad your new addition looks good.

[Cassette87]

i hope everything works out! How's the lil guy doin?

[Snelly40]

still kickin, she's still on the bottom, but i can see her fins moving and shes still breathing heavily but it has slowed some already, i have a maxijet going wiht the venturi so there is a medium flow but lots of oxygen!!!