Monster RO/DI Setup

[rbursek]

Lynn,
Most Ro unit membranes are rated at 60psi and 75* water. for there gpd rateing. You might want to put it on the RO inlet for that reason, the prefilters do not care what there preasures is at.

[rbursek]

Lynn, going back to the float valvles you really do not nee them, and in a salt inviroment can get creep on them and fail. Here is what I do when I make up 2 32gal brutes, one is the mixing brute and the other one is for MU and adding to my Kalk jugs. Any RODI in that brute fills my standby 7gal Kalk jug, anything left gets pumped to the empty mixing brute, I get about 21/2gal per hour out of my RODI unit, I leave notes on the coffee pot, front door and in the car, MAKING WATER!!!! So when I go to bed I pump out water to the mixing brute, I am good over night, in the AM when I get up and make coffee, check it out, which is always okay. When I leave in the morning for work I pump over to the mixing brute which now is about full, and I am safe for the day, and check it when I get home and stop it before bed and I have two full brutes and a 7gal Kalk jug, the trick is not to have too many Martinis and forget to shut erh down before bed, not on the TV controler takes care of that, plus yours is in the garage.

[lcstorc]

I am terrified that I will forget. I think at least for now we are going with both fresh. I think that means we only need the one valve. Gotta think this through though to make sure it is Lynn proof.

[AQTCJAK]

I like it

[Woodstock]

Nice work Lynn & Frans I really like them stacked like that.
Your set up should work fine but I do suggest adding a float shut off valve to the ro/di barrel... just incase
I have a similar set up but mine are side-by-side and sit upright.

[lcstorc]

That is exactly what I have been telling him. He thinks we will remmeber to shut it off.
For right now we are going with both containers as fresh RO/DI. He doesn't want to add the heat of a pump to keep the salt circulating. With the temps here I am willing to take the wait and see approach. If nothing else we will have more than enough RO/DI available to mix rather quickly in an emergency situation.
Now onto the next project which is finally my pony tank. We have the chiller against the wall where it needs to be we just need to drill the hole and connect it. The sump on that tank is all messed up so we need to fix that first and then it is chiller time.

[sasquatch]

if your constantly removing water for use the ro/di unit will be doing short runs and I think thats not great for their life span, really you should have a low/hi switch set up this would also ensure better usage of "stale" water, at least if you forget to shut down its the very best water washing the floor lol

[Woodstock]

Originally Posted by sasquatch

if your constantly removing water for use the ro/di unit will be doing short runs and I think thats not great for their life span, really you should have a low/hi switch set up this would also ensure better usage of "stale" water, at least if you forget to shut down its the very best water washing the floor lol

Excellent point Sasquatch.
Per TheFilterGuys, it is best for the ro/di unit to make at least 5 gallons at a time. I use a 1/4" valve to manually turn off the incoming water to the fw reservoir and only turn it on when the 55 gal drum is almost empty.

[lcstorc]

Hadn't thought of that one. Very good point. Perhaps I can get it set up so it only turns on when the top container is almost empty.
I'll have to point this out when he gets home.

[JWarren]

I have been reading a bit about how to best use an RO/DI shut off on big tanks like yours. Since being in a bigger house now, I now have the room for a couple of bigger tanks.

Float valves turn me off for some reason, I think I like a bit more of a challange, plus I have heard bad things about their sticking and flooding. I am looking into 110 volt valves controlled by an on off timer, so the RO/DI unit will crank out 5 gallons a day. My unit produces 1 gallon every 14 min. with the water pressure here. So, I'll let the valve run for an hour a day. That should give me about 4 1/2 gallons a day, which will be a good supply for when I do water changes twice a week of 5 gallons.

When I get the 90 up and running again, I'll just increase the time on the timer.

The valves I was looking at are plastic shut-off valves that are used for supplying water to the ice maker in a fridge. These have been pretty easy to find at my local appliance store, but they were a bit costly. When I find one with a better price, I will be picking up a couple.

[lcstorc]

Interresting idea. Then I would just need a timer.
Lots of good ideas on this thread. I am so glad I posted it.

[rbursek]

Lynn,
alot of people run the float switches along with a timer, so if the float sticks the timer is a shut down back up.

[JWarren]

Then there is this:

Flood Stop Water Heater Auto Shut Off Valve 3/4 NPT - FloodStop Systems

[JWarren]

Here is more of what I was referring to though. This is the type valve that lets water into your ice maker.

Partselect.com - Maytag Refrigerator Parts And All Brands of Appliance Parts

[JWarren]

Found a maytag, little pricey though.:

12001415 - Maytag Single Outlet Water Valve