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DIY For all the Do-It-Yourselfers out there

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Old 12-15-2003, 07:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
Pro_builder
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DIYed Auto Top off system

We would like to see the auto top off system, with Pics and material lists and instructions, for others to get ideas from for there project.
TIA
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Purple tang, yellow tang, pacific blue tang, 2 green chromis, 1 Sand sifting star, snails, hermit crabs, 2 mated perculas, pulsing Xenia, Anenome, mushrooms, ricordia, zoanthids, kenya tree 1 1/2" tall, misc other hitchhiker stuff.
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Old 12-15-2003, 08:02 AM   #2 (permalink)
wooddood
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ine is just a 5gal bucket with a penguine 1140 power head and a daves float switch, i'll post pics later.
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ask all the questions you have if we cant answer it we'll make up some thing. remember patience is the key to a kick ass reef.

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Old 12-16-2003, 10:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
tommyp
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Mine is a 18 gal rubbermaid container with a jaco bulkhead (premium Aqautics) fitting in the bottom side. it is plumbed to a kent float valve which is mounted in my sump

the rubbermade It is mounted on an upside down recyling bin next to my tank. some what chessey looking but it works great and i can fill it with enough top off to go for a week or more when on vacation.

tommyp
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Old 12-17-2003, 06:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
wooddood
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great idea tommy thanks.
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120 gal/in wall tank/starboard substraight/2 250 watt 10k xm metal halides/ 4 55watt 03 actinics/150lbs lr/scwd on return/scwd on a closed loop/aquaclear aquatics 200 pro wetdry w/skimmer.




ask all the questions you have if we cant answer it we'll make up some thing. remember patience is the key to a kick ass reef.

dave.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
Scooterman
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I need some type of top off for when I go on a trip, I need to set up for a weeks worth of water, so I'm tagging here also.
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
Hooked
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The output line from my RO/DI goes directly to a float in the sump. It also splits into a 5 gallon reservoir. I had to drill one hole in the ceiling and one in the wall to get the line through, which I realize is not an option for everyone, but the advantage is I have a continous supply of top-up water. I check my TDS faithfully to ensure water quality.

HTH
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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My setup is gravity fed and works great if you have a sump that you can put a float valve in and the container is cheap you can put together one for $15 for the float valve $10 for the bulkhead and assorted elbows etc and rigid tubing and the rubbermaid. You can make the rubbermade any size you want depending on your length of trip. The nice thing about a gravity fed setup is that there is less likelyhood of it getting stuck on with a snail. If I ran a pH setup I would have a high water shutoff as well as a low water turn on as a redundancy.

TP
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Old 12-17-2003, 05:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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pics

setup
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Old 12-17-2003, 06:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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bulkhead

bulkhead inside the rubbermade basically the same outside except it has the jaco fitting to attach the rigid line
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Old 12-17-2003, 06:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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float

kent float switch mounted in side of sump.
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Old 12-17-2003, 06:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
mwrager
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I use a system from Tunze to keep my water level constant. I use it in the sump.
Water level regulator with two sensor holding devices, extension and numerous fastening accessories. It is suitable for cabinet filter plants in TUNZE Comline filters or on the edge of the aquarium.
This osmotic regulator can also be used in TUNZE SYSTEM cabinet filter plants. The sensors can be stuck to glass surfaces or can be fitted directly to the edge of the tank.
Delivery condition: Ready for mounting with power supply unit, metering pump, hose, sensor holding device.
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My RO/DI goes to my sump where it plumbs into a Kent Marine float valve. I also split the line with a tee upstream of the float and ran a line to a water chiller for the family. We tell the kids its "fish water"....
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
The output line from my RO/DI goes directly to a float in the sump. It also splits into a 5 gallon reservoir. I had to drill one hole in the ceiling and one in the wall to get the line through, which I realize is not an option for everyone, but the advantage is I have a continous supply of top-up water. I check my TDS faithfully to ensure water quality.
Our setup is very similar to this.

RO/DI is plumbed directly to a float switch in the sump, also directly to the Nilsen (kalk) reactor, also to a float switch in a 20g rubbermaid container (for water changes).

Nilsen drips 24/7, sump & 20g Rubbermaid both have float switches - only on when "called".
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Do I Dare?:

Stoney Reef Float Switch $20
Grainger 2A554
Water resistant spade connectors
3 plug 5ft extension cord with spade connectors wired in line
to attach float switch
Snail Guard

Stoney Reef Kalk Reactor full setup $195
Kalk reactor
Float Switch (same as above)
Maxijet 600 feed pump for top off reservoir

5 gallon Menards Bucket: $10
1/2" ID tubing 5ft
1/4" OD tubing 5ft

ESV Kalkwasser $20


Basically for $40 you can get just a freshwater top off just the float switch, bucket and maxijet 600 powerhead to feed it.

I put the kalk reactor in line to do calcium as well. The kalk reactor full set up comes with the float switch so everything is like $210 with tubing. Works great with smaller sumps or with large sumps with the return pump sectioned off so you can measure evaporation easily in one chamber.

There are a couple of options. I do recommend using a freshwater reservoir instead of hooking up the RO/DI directly. That way most sumps can handle the 5 gallons and not overflow, but with an unlimited supply of water your in trouble! I have had the same float switch for 2 years running my top off activating my kalk reactor mixing pump and feed pump. I soaked it in vinegar once to clean it. My sump is unlit, so I do not have to worry about corralline. If your sump is lit, you would obviously have to clean it more often. I just like the redundancy of having the freshwater reservoir. However there are times I forget to fill the bucket and come home to a feed pump that sounds like it is going to explode because it is running dry.
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Old 12-18-2003, 02:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
johnlewis
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Those float switches are just mechanical not electrical right ?
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