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| DIY For all the Do-It-Yourselfers out there |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Tunicate | DIY sump set-up, HELP! Hi! How's everybody doing today? It's me again, the same guy that trying to convert his FW tank into reef tank. It was about a month ago. Now I have a little bit more equipment than a month ago. I have 100 gallon tank with about 85 lbs of live rocks curing. My equipments are prizm skimmer, titanium heater, retrofit lighting from cool touch (2x 250 MH, 2x 48" VHO actinic), several pumps and wet/dry filter with bio balls which I just found out is not good for reef, so I decided to make my own sump. If anybody has diagram or a pic of DIY sump pls. post it here. I will be drilling my tank next week to set-up an internal overflow. Pls help. Any advice would be appreciated. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Manta Ray ![]() | Can you post a pic of the sump??? You may only need to ditch the Bio Balls to use the sump. Failing the ability to mod the sump you currently have you can easily make a sump from a glass aquarium and plexi glass sheets... Nick
__________________ "Chaos, confusion, despair...my work is done here." ...Some guy named Murphy.... A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!" Reef Sanctuary Knowledgebase (Answers to all your questions and then some!) |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Manta Ray ![]() | not familiar w/ that style...sorry. Why go w/ an in sump skimmer? there are great HOB skimmers out there..(sorry to be rude, but Prizms arent generally considered one of them), and also many fantastic skimmers that can be plumbed to a sump. Just a thought, Nick
__________________ "Chaos, confusion, despair...my work is done here." ...Some guy named Murphy.... A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!" Reef Sanctuary Knowledgebase (Answers to all your questions and then some!) |
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| | #7 (permalink) | ||||
| Manta Ray ![]() | Quote:
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A sump really has two purposes. The first is the most important in my opinion, and thats to add water volume to the system. All else being equal, a 175 gallon system is easier to keep stable than a 10 gallon. The reason being that you have more leeway before things get nasty in a larger system. Its all about dilution. A larger tank, will require more pollutants to foul than a smaller tank, (ammonia spike from overfeeding for example). And a sump is an easy way to turn a 75 gallon setup into a 175 gallon system. Getting back to your question about in sump skimmers. In that example, an in sump skimmer is going to displace such a small amount of water that it wont even be noticed, so its a moot point. On my current 20 gallon set up, I have a 10 gallon sump/refugium which I didnt want to clutter w/ a skimmer. So I went w/ a HOB design. The other purpose to a sump is to store things that you dont want visible in the aquarium for aesthetic reasons...like skimmers, reactors, heaters pumps etc. So its all up to you. I would have the biggest sump you can comfortably fit (aesthetics can be a limiting factor, its okay ) After all, its only there to make your life easier Nick
__________________ "Chaos, confusion, despair...my work is done here." ...Some guy named Murphy.... A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!" Reef Sanctuary Knowledgebase (Answers to all your questions and then some!) | ||||
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| the wood dude ![]() | gonna tag along, i have a thread going on the same subject in the diy.
__________________ 120 gal/in wall tank/starboard substraight/2 250 watt 10k xm metal halides/ 4 55watt 03 actinics/150lbs lr/scwd on return/scwd on a closed loop/aquaclear aquatics 200 pro wetdry w/skimmer. ask all the questions you have if we cant answer it we'll make up some thing. remember patience is the key to a kick ass reef. dave. |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Regular Guy Moderator ![]() | 36x13x12 is about 25 gallons with baffling, equipment displacemeent, and free board you will probably end up with 23-20 gallons of additional water volume. I am using a 29 gallon long to build a sump refugium. My refugium will be 12-13 gallons in volume with the sump, equipment and freeboard making up the rest of the 17-16 gallons. The sump/refugium will provide better gas exchange; CO2 & free nitrgen out, and oxygen in. The refugium will be a place to grow macro algae for nitrate export as well as a place for amphipods and cpepods to to propogate for the benefit of my corals and other filter feeders. Maxx already covered the additional stability that will result from any increase in system volume. HTH ![]()
__________________ 20 Gallon mini reef with mated pair of Maroon Clowns given to Rougiem! 80 gallon reef given to Rougiem/Wooster HS. |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Manta Ray ![]() | just a basic plan here, this should give you some ideas. BTW the dimensions you gave will be fine...just find the aquarium having the dimensions you want and go to it! It really is pretty easy....
__________________ "Chaos, confusion, despair...my work is done here." ...Some guy named Murphy.... A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!" Reef Sanctuary Knowledgebase (Answers to all your questions and then some!) |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Tunicate | thanks for the diagram, really appreciate it! more questions, what is a refugium (I understand it's another type of sump set-up)? what is a detritus? why do I need to keep the refugium from being the most effective? I was thingking of getting a MAG 12 for my return pump (about 950 gph). what is a close loop? thank you for taking your time answering my questions. I really appreciate it! |
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| | #14 (permalink) | ||||
| Manta Ray ![]() | Quote:
Originally refugiums were designed to be viewable and were often considered an addition to a main tank. An example of this would be a 20 gallon sea horse tank plumbed into a 80 gallon reef tank. However many people also saw how pods, (amphipods, copepods, etc small crustaceans which many fish find good eating, and the larvae are a good source of plankton for many corals. Think food farm for your tank) multiplied faster and consequently fed the tank more often if given a safe haven...so a refugium also came to be a home for pods. To further the home for pods concept, people started putting macro algae in the refugium in order to compete w/ the annoying micro algae that causes problems in reef tanks. The macro algae uses the same nutrients needed by the undesirable algae, thereby depriving it of food for growth. Along the way refugiums became less attractive, (what w/ being stuffed full of algae and pods...) that they have become relegated to being under the sump w/ the rest of the equipment that keeps the tank pretty and working. If using a refugium for nutrient export, (macro algae takes up phosphate and nitrates, then gets "pruned back" and thrown out, thereby "exporting" the nutrients that encourage algae growth), then slower flow, allows more contact time w/ the available nutrients. The reccommended circulation rate is roughly 10x the tanks volume per hour...eg 100 gallon tank should have at least 1000 gallons an hour flowing through it. However many people have realized that their corals do better when subjected to more flow, and a chaotic flow pattern. This more closely resembled the swirling currents on a reef in the wild. I know many people who go upwards of 15-20x their tanks volume per hour. Having 1000 gallons per hour flowing thru your sump would be very noisy, (trust me, the wife would complain. It would sound pretty close to a toilet flushing constantly). so you probably would want to slow the flow through your main sump to lower noise levels. I would say between 3-7 x your tanks volume would be fine. Remember the sump gives you a place to keep your mechanical filtration...micron socks or filter floss will collect alot of crap. Detritus is a polite word for fish crap...it also covers uneaten food, and anything thats busy polluting the tank. You want this stuff gone..it will poison your tank. The best way to make your tank successful is to think of it as a toilet, it needs to be flushed constantly, otherwise you've got a big mess. Mechanical filtration is one piece of the toilet flushing. Water changes are another...make sure you can do water changes easily. It wont keep you from doing them then. I dont care what anyone says, water changes are necessary and will need to be done... Quote:
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Hope this all helps, Nick
__________________ "Chaos, confusion, despair...my work is done here." ...Some guy named Murphy.... A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!" Reef Sanctuary Knowledgebase (Answers to all your questions and then some!) | ||||
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