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DIY For all the Do-It-Yourselfers out there

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Old 12-25-2003, 07:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
mnreefman
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now with that design where could i put a check valve... i dont thin natulis's would work since mine are going all the way dawn.... or would they.... geeez i dont know
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Old 12-26-2003, 12:17 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I think I know what you are trying to do. (sorry for the novel)
First off lose the check valve, they fail when you need them most, instead use a siphon hole like Nautilus said at or just below the water line.
I think someone was talking about 2 part glue (primer & glue). No need, glue only will work just fine on the low pressures we use. But for constant pressure applications in landscaping (prior to valves) I recommend PVC w/ primer or even better Brass. (Might have been another thread)

Here is your parts list:
10 ft section of 3/4" schedule 40 PVC
10 ft section of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC
2-3/4" PVC street els (90 degree)
6-1/2" PVC street els (90 degree)
1 T fitting with 2-1/2" & 1-3/4" fitting
Small bottle of clear Low VOC glue (less smell & bad stuff)
PVC Cutters
Female Threaded fitting to attach to pump
2 Unions (one after pump, one before T)
2-1/2" caps

When building the PVC structure pick an end and go from there. I usually start at the pump. Order is as follows:
Pump
Female threaded
about 2 - 4" of pipe
Union so you can easily remove pump from system for cleaning
enough pipe to clear your sump
streel el
pipe for horizontal run to back of tank
street el
pipe for vertical run up back of tank (2nd union goes in this run)
Cut your pipe about 1/2" above the top of the tank
Attach the T with the T portion parallel with the tank
1/2" pipe from both ends of the T cut about an inch short of the ends of the tank
This is the difficult part, using 3 els and several short ends of pipe move into the tank of each end: 1st el will be perpendicular with the tank, 2nd will be pointed down into the tank with a short piece to put it about 1" below the surface, 3rd el will be in the same plane as the 1st and will be pointed back towards the front glass.
put a long enough piece to span your tank with the cap on the end,
do not glue the cap on the end, so you can get inside to clean it.
Drill 1/4" or smaller holes in the spray bar portion and your siphon hole just below the water line on each side and you are done.

Remember to put glue on both sides of all PVC connections, and allow 24-48 hours to dry and outgas before running water through it. And when using the cutters, its a squeeze & twist motion when getting the cut started.

Hope this helps
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Old 12-26-2003, 12:20 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I just looked at the pic again, do you want the spray bar going all the way to the bottom of the tank? Too Ease then.

forget the third 1/2" el and just run the pipe all the way down
And maybe using 2-1/2" unions on each side will be easier than the 3/4" union prior to the T.
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Old 12-26-2003, 03:32 AM   #19 (permalink)
mnreefman
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no the spray bar is not going all the way across the back just 2 post going down in the corners
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Old 12-26-2003, 09:20 AM   #20 (permalink)
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looks like you are in good hands.
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Old 12-26-2003, 10:23 AM   #21 (permalink)
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If you are putting the spray bars into the water will this not back pressure the water and then a jet stream will come out of the siphon break hole?

The 2 part glue with primer is better because it cleans the PVC pipe end so the glue will be stronger and not leak. If you use just the glue you take the chance of salt creep later on down the line. I personally would not use anything brass.
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Old 12-26-2003, 11:53 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Clint it sounds like you have some good info coming at you. Just as a side thought and to confuse things a little more. Why dot you go to 2 pumps and just make them a little smaller. this way you could maybe use a wave maker or simular to alturnate the water flow. For the spray bar I like using the locline stuff, its just snaps together and you caan point it anyway you want. here is a pick below



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Old 12-26-2003, 12:09 PM   #23 (permalink)
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thanks guys
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Old 12-26-2003, 12:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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oh and how does that locline stuff conect to the pvc and where can i get it
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Old 12-26-2003, 03:05 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Most places have it now Clint, maybe try one of our sponcers, if not I know www.savko.com has it. You will have to buy a male adapter for it (cheap) it has a 3/4 inch male threaded fitting on one side and the locline on the other.

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Old 12-26-2003, 03:31 PM   #26 (permalink)
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thanks bud
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Old 12-26-2003, 03:37 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The Mag 7 has a 1/2" return as this is what I am using for my sump return. All threaded 1/2" PVC is used. HTH


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Old 12-27-2003, 07:01 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Then the 9.5 has 3/4 fittings but comes with a down sizer to 1/2 inch right?
I think locline comes in black also, that way it does not look so bad.
If you use 2 pumps make sure the siphon hole is above the water this will be in-case one pump fails your sump will not over flow.
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Old 12-28-2003, 12:46 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Use "y's" (wyes) instead of tees, there will be less pressure lost. Also instead of a 90 you can use two 45's which make a smoother bend if space is there.
Here is a link to some wyes: www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#wye
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Old 12-28-2003, 01:24 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I use no metals to avoid leaching them into the tank, plastic only. As we all know, salt water is way corrosive!

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