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Old 09-10-2009, 10:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
cmuro
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Ceramic Tiles

I think this has been discussed before but never saw a definitive answer.

Is using ceramic tiles (got some floor tile samples when we redid the bathroom) for placing frags on good or bad?

I had some 12x12 tiles and cut one up and used them to put frags on. An algae problem has gotten bad in my tank and i have tried to think of everything (lights, feeding, WC, etc.) and have done everything i can (replaced MH bulb, cut feeding back to every other day, more frequent water changes), nothing seems t have helped.

While banging my head against the wall i thought about when it started and realized is was about the time i started fragging using these tile pieces. So i have looked all around and have seen some things about curing them (which i didn't do) but nothing definitive about if it is bad or good.

Can anyone enlighten me and tell me "yes, it's bad" and i can pass it off as a learning lesson?

Also, i just removed the last frag did using a piece of tile.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
BigAl07
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Re: Ceramic Tiles

wiithout actual testing of the tile I don't think there is any way someone can say for SURE it is or is Not the tile. My gut tells me that it's highly likely that something in the tile or the finish on it has contributed to an algae bloom.

If I were a betting man (which I'm not) I would put money on the tile at least being a contributing factor to your algae bloom.

good luck and Happy Reefing
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Live Rock Rubble will do the SAME thing as Bio-Balls and is NOT a suitable replacement for BIO-BALLS in a Reef System! It's ALL gotta go!!

Nitrate (NO3) reduction is directly proportional to percentage of Water Change.
Allen's home-made formula...currentNO3-((%WC*.01)currentNO3)=finalNO3 (thanks Luukosian)
This means if you change 50% of your total water volume (That's EVERYTHING) you'll get a net reduction of (NO3) somewhere around 50%.

Ask me about how to increase your REEF budget without going without FOOD!!

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Old 09-10-2009, 11:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
livingword26
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Re: Ceramic Tiles

The back side of a ceramic tile is porous, unlike the glazed side. Anything in the tile could certainly leach out, although I don't know what that would be.
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
Clownfish518
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Re: Ceramic Tiles

I will respectfully disagree; I think it unlikely the tile is a major contributing factor, unless it is in the glaze. Tiles and ceramic/clay pots are an old school medium used in clown tanks for them to lay their eggs on, have been used for decades that way. Never heard of them causing algae blooms.

So I am skeptical that is the cause.
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
cmuro
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Re: Ceramic Tiles

Ok, so next question what about PC actinic bulbs. I have 18w PC actinic bulbs about 5 months old. Is it possible they are at the end of their life and need to be replaced? Could these bulbs cause an algae bloom like a MH when it shifts?
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
proenca
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Re: Ceramic Tiles

Im with Clownfish on this one ( sorry Big Al, there had to be a first ! )

Tiles are used for decades for clownfish spawning and , as far Im aware, they never lead to algae bloom.

I've used ceramic tiles and clay pots for clowfish breeding and never had an algae bloom linked ( or that I could link ) to the introduction of ceramic tiles.

I've always heard to be wary of the glazed ones.

Again they are very porous and something might have leaked, but I highly doubt it.

Do you use RO/DI water ? Do you have a phosphate sponge / filter that forgot replacing ? Some mechanical fitler that has accumulating ? Bio balls ? Over feeding ? MH bulbs when replaced they should be used a couple of hours less per week than usual : they increased brightness ( new vs old ) can cause algae blooms..
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Ceramic Tiles

Quote:
Originally Posted by proenca View Post
Im with Clownfish on this one ( sorry Big Al, there had to be a first ! )
I knew it was coming! LOL!

To be specific it's the GLAZING I was eluding to. I'm not a "Glaze/Tile composition guru" (I'm surprised I can even spell it) but I do know there are glazes that are NOT tank safe. We have a guy in our local reef club who DOES this type of stuff for a living/hobby and when it has something to do with a "Tank" he is very specific about which glaze he uses.

I didn't go back and re-read my original post to see if I made it look as though I was speaking of the ceramic itself or not but I apparently was not clear in the least.

__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~

Live Rock Rubble will do the SAME thing as Bio-Balls and is NOT a suitable replacement for BIO-BALLS in a Reef System! It's ALL gotta go!!

Nitrate (NO3) reduction is directly proportional to percentage of Water Change.
Allen's home-made formula...currentNO3-((%WC*.01)currentNO3)=finalNO3 (thanks Luukosian)
This means if you change 50% of your total water volume (That's EVERYTHING) you'll get a net reduction of (NO3) somewhere around 50%.

Ask me about how to increase your REEF budget without going without FOOD!!

Big Al's 10g
Julie's (BigAl's Gal) 6g NanoCube Gone but not forgotten
BigAl's Slow 90g Tank Chronicle
Allens OFFICE 12g Nano-Reef
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Old 09-11-2009, 03:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
cmuro
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Re: Ceramic Tiles

I use RO/DI water measures .01 or .00 on TDS before hitting the DI canister.

I use Seachem PhosGuard, Seachem Renew, and started using Seachem De Nitrate in a media reactor. Usually change the media once a month and last week i removed the two sponges in the reactor to rule them out. I also hang a bag of Purigen in the sump underneath the overflow.

I did not decrease the light period when i replaced the MH bulb, though this started before i changed the bulb (the reason i replaced the bulb).

I have increased an replenished my CUC. I have a fuge (small HOB) with some sand, chaeto, and mangroves in it.

The only thing i haven't changed is the actinic PC bulbs (only 5 months old).
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