These are possible clownfish/anemone combinations.

[Basile]

2003 Anemone Survey - The Breeder's Registry

2003 Anemone Survey


The Breeder's Registry is primarily dedicated to collecting and redistributing information about propagating marine organisms in aquariums, but from time to time, we must investigate husbandry practices that allow aquarists to keep certain organisms alive long enough to breed them. In that vein, and due to the notoriously poor survival rate of anemones in captivity, we participated in a survey during the month of September, 2003 to attempt to identify, in a statistical manner, the factors associated with good survival rates.
The results of the survey are contained in the article below:



Anemone Health and Longevity Survey

These are the results of the Anemone survey conducted September 2003, by Alastair Little.
Contact:anemonesurvey@yahoo.com.au (This address will remain active through 2003.)

Contents

1. Aims of survey
2. Methodology
3. Results and conclusions
4. Species specific information
5. Final comments



A number of survey respondents sent in some lovely photos of their anemones. The only pity is I could not include them all in this publication. This beautiful specimen is in the tank of Eugene Schwartz. In another tank Eugene has a Heteractis crispa that he described as a rescue mission. Bought bleached, Eugene restored it to its former glory and color by careful feeding and correct lighting and environment.


1. Aims of Survey

The primary aim of the survey was to gather data on anemones that have lived a comparatively long time in captivity, and attempt to identify any common factors in their care, with enough consistency and quantity to give a statistically valid basis to believe that these factors have been important to their long rate of survival in captivity. In this way it was hoped to be able to provide accurate recommendations that would enhance the health and longevity of captive anemones.


2. Methodology

A questionnaire was distributed via the internet for anybody having an anemone that had lived more than two years in captivity. The survey was confined to clownfish hosting species. I would like to thank all who took the time to complete this questionnaire and return it to me.

Data was eventually collected on 137 anemones, and time spent in an aquarium ranged from two to fifteen years. Eighteen anemones had been in an aquarium for ten or more years, and the median time was six years.

A spreadsheet was set up for each species, and data entered in such a way that any that data clusters could be easily seen, and widely dispersed data could be easily seen. The spreadsheets could also be cross referenced, so that data patterns across several or all species could be identified. The data was also weighted so that data from the shorter lived anemone had less importance than data from longer lived ones. In the end, the weighting had little effect, the results would have been very similar with no weighting.

The responses have provided sufficient data to reach statistically valid conclusions in some areas, but insufficient data in other areas. Also, the complexity of relationships between various environmental factors in an aquarium made it difficult to get an accurate perspective on some factors individually. For example, to get an accurate picture of the effects of pH, it would be necessary to look at a range of pH readings, where all other variables are equal. There was just not enough data to do this. However, where data was insufficient to be valid statistically, there were sometimes clear trends visible, which when combined with comments provided by the respondents, produced reasonable grounds to reach certain conclusions. I have therefore decided to depart from my original plan of producing a report based only on statistics, to one which is a combination of hard data plus comments and anecdotal evidence provided by the respondents. While this approach may not be deemed quite as accurate, it should be born in mind that this information represents the combined knowledge and practises of all the respondents. It has been estimated that only around 5% of captive anemones make it past two years, so the respondents to this survey can be regarded as people who are doing most things right. This can also be born out by the calibre of the respondents, which included some well known authors, and also people involved commercially in the aquarium trade.


3. Results and Conclusions

A lot of the information was true to all anemones, although some results were localised to particular species, so there is also another section to deal with that: Species Specific Information.

It was hoped that the survey would yield some hard and fast rules, or a major breakthrough, to ensure anemone health, however this just did not happen. No major breakthroughs were made, in fact it was more a case of the conventional wisdom in most cases being confirmed.

One thing that really did come through though was that virtually all survey respondents ran very stable, well equipped tanks, and had a very intimate understanding of the health and requirements of the tank inhabitants. Some of them reported that they rarely if ever tested the tank water, relying instead on observation of the livestock to tell them if anything was wrong, in which case they would test. This mindset only comes about after long experience running a system so stable that the owner becomes confident to take this approach. There was not one reply from someone who had a tank that was poorly managed or unstable. Therefore a basic prerequisite must be to have a solid, stable system. The other thing that came through was the prevalence of the species Entacmaea quadricolor, in fact around 50% of replies were about this species. More will be said about this anemone in the species specific section, however it was obvious this is the species that will perform best in an aquarium. Other species were notably under represented, such as Heteractis magnifica, despite being sold in reasonable numbers, it does appear that this species, while a beautiful anemone, is likely to do badly and die in an aquarium.

Water Chemistry:-

Ammonia and Nitrite. Only zero values were reported for these.

Nitrate. Almost half of respondents reported values greater than zero for nitrate, but the majority of these were lower than 5 ppm. Most of the rest were lower than 10 ppm, however there were a few values up to 20 ppm, and surprisingly, one was reported up to 40 ppm. Based at face value purely on the numbers, it would appear that nitrate below 5 ppm has no detrimental effect, 5-10 ppm is getting borderline, and longevity is much less represented in systems with greater than 10 ppm.

pH. Almost all respondents reported pH values around 8.0 to 8.4, the most common being 8.0 to 8.2. Some individual systems did fluctuate by up to 0.3 daily. There were some long lived anemones in systems that occasionally dipped as low as 7.8. Most pH values were very stable though, indicating that stable pH is an advantage, but not critical.

Alkalinity. Few extreme values reported, mostly within the 2.8 to 4.0 mEq/L range.

Calcium. Again, few extreme values reported. The majority very close to 400, and nearly all between 380 to 450. The highest was 470, and the lowest 320.

Iodine and trace chemicals. Not enough data was collected to reach any valid conclusions with these, however all the values that were reported were within ranges considered normal, there were no extreme values.

Salinity. Was mostly reported in SG. Nearly all were either 1.024 or 1.025, and a smaller number at 1.026. A few, but not many, other numbers were reported, however the near absence of any other numbers may indicate this to be of greater importance than may be generally realised.

Temperature. The majority were 80 or 81, and some at 82. Some other mainly lower numbers were reported. Many systems had some fluctuation. Some systems very stable, however it would appear that a few degrees gradual fluctuation does not do much harm.

Lighting:-

Basically, the conventional wisdom was confirmed here, that strong lighting is best, although there were exceptions. Over 90% of anemones were under metal halide (MH) lights, or MH in combination with something else. The others were under Very High Output (VHO) fluorescents, power compacts (PC), or various combinations. Nearly all systems included actinics. Among other examples of success without MH, was an E. quadricolor which had been kept for 5 years under PC lights, was in top health, and had produced a good number of clones which had been sold.

Some respondents with very bright MH reported that the anemone actively tried to get in the most possible light, while a few owners said they did not consider lighting hugely important.

The lighting was very difficult to properly analyse, not knowing the exact position of the lights. Plus, the position of the anemone has a huge effect. Just simply looking at the particular light set up does not tell the full story. However it can be said that the general leaning was towards very strong lighting. The anemones under less than MH were nearly all in very small tanks. Just a word to those who are wondering why their anemone is moving around, current and substrate also play a part here. A number of respondents said their anemone stopped wandering once it found the correct combination of light, current and substrate.

Feeding:-

A very few people said the anemone was not fed at all other than a bit of stray fish food, but nearly all anemones were target fed, with various types of shrimp food featuring highly on the menu. Some anemones were being fed quite large amounts, likely more than the rest of the tank inhabitants combined. As a supplement additive, Selcon was mentioned quite a few times. Some people placed great importance on the feeding, and carefully combined various food types plus supplements to achieve a very rounded diet. Overall, it did appear that by whatever means, most anemones were getting a varied diet likely to contain a wide range of the various nutritional requirements that would be necessary.

Water Changes:

- Nothing special to mention here, most respondents were just performing the normal type water changes one would expect to see of any well run aquarium.

4. Species Specific Information

note:- only a few species mentioned here as some species do not have any special information not covered above.

Entacmaea quadricolor. This species really did emerge as the star performer. Not only was it much more likely to live a long life in an aquarium than any other species, but it was also reported as reproducing readily.

E. quadricolor appears adaptable to a range of conditions, doing well under very high lighting, but able to live under tube only lighting also in some set-ups. It can also live with low, medium or high current, but would appear to favour medium or high. Reproduction was often in response to a stress event, often reported in newly purchased specimens recovering from the rigours of being shipped. It may be that the anemone having survived what to it was a cataclysmic event, reproduces, to ensure survival of the species.

A drawback with this species is that it was often reported as a wanderer, prone to doing damage to both its surroundings and itself as it moves around the aquarium. However, it was also reported as staying in the same place for several years once it found a really good spot. One example of this was a respondent who said his E. quadricolor liked a spot where it was attached to the underside of an overhanging rock, but reaching out into the tank in a position of high light and strong current. Knowing his anemone's preference for this type of location, when it had to be moved to a new tank, the owner deliberately created a similar type location in the new tank, and the anemone moved around the tank until it found it, and then stayed put.

This anemone was referred to by a number of owners as hardy, and it appears that it is, given a liveable environment. Although it is hardy by anemone standards, it must be remembered that it still requires a good high quality environment.

If you combine all the above with the fact that this is an attractive anemone that has also been reported as hosting a wide range of clownfish species, it really should be the anemone of choice for most aquarists. Looked after properly it will reward its owner by maintaining good health and possibly producing clones, and will also assist conservation by reducing the removal of other species from reefs, which will likely die after a year or two in an aquarium.

Heteractis magnifica. Very strong lighting, very strong current. Other than that, not enough data was gathered to say much because of the poor survival rate of this species in aquaria. A beautiful anemone, but not for beginners, and maybe one that really should just be left in the wild.

Heteractis malu. A sand burrowing anemone regarded as less attractive than most species. It was reported as living in sand as shallow as 1 1/2 inches, however to really make this anemone happy, a 6 inch deep layer of sand is required. The reason I rated this species a mention is it has one big attribute. That is, that given the right place, it will stay put without moving for years. As it is also relatively non aggressive chemically, this makes it a better suited candidate for a reef tank. If this anemone is in shallow sand it will move around looking for something deeper to burrow into, and may wilt and die. However, given six inch deep sand it will burrow in and then stay put (assuming other conditions are OK). It was reported as living under high, medium, and low (tube) lighting, although the tube lighting was a very small tank. Current was more low or medium for this species. It readily hosts Amphiprion clarkii and A. occelaris clownfish, but was also reported hosting some others.

Sand Burrowing Anemones (several species). The trick appears to be to give them a good deep bed of sand to burrow into, up to 6 inches deep. Not so important for species that will either burrow or live in rocks or coral, but specialist burrowers were described several times as only really settling down once they had some good deep sand to get into. Having said that, there were examples of them living in sand as shallow as 1 ½ inches, in some of these cases it was mentioned that they had also burrowed under a rock, which may have helped them feel burrowed in. Attack from below by bristleworms was mentioned as a potential problem for these anemones.

5. Final Comments.

What has come through this survey is that there is no one “magic bullet” to anemone keeping, but rather attention is needed to getting everything right. Following the parameters outlined above will provide a long term environment for the more easy care species such as E. quadricolor. All the respondents had tanks that were stable and well equipped and managed. The levels of things such as calcium tended to be conservative and close to natural seawater. There were few extreme levels. The fact that there was not a single reply from someone with an unstable or poorly run tank really shows that anemones just are not going to make it long term unless conditions are good. That said, some of the older anemones had been moved several times to a number of different tanks and different conditions, but had adapted as the conditions were still liveable and the anemone health good.

A conclusion that could be made is that conservation of wild stocks could be enhanced by making Entacmaea quadricolor the anemone of first choice, because it would appear that while it can be done by some experienced aquarists, generally only a small minority of anemones from each of the other species make it for any reasonable period of time in an aquarium. This has resulted in the complete removal of anemones from some reefs, which of course also leaves the clownfish without a home - a great pity when they are only going to decorate someone’s tank for a year or two and then die. Entacmaea quadricolor, on the other hand could easily become a completely renewable resource, as the responses to this survey have given numerous instances of them reproducing in captivity.

Comment should also be made on a leading reported cause of anemone deaths, which was through injuries resulting from contact with a powerhead. This was repeated over in many emails, often with anemone that had otherwise survived well for many years. It would therefore be good practise to install some form of protection over water intakes, to remove this threat.

[Clownfish518]

Not entirely. They won't recognize it initially as it is a BTA; an ocellaris is genetically disposed to Ritteris, and finds them by, of all things, smell. It may take them a while to learn that it is a host. A picture of a clown hosting in a BTA hung to the aquarium where they can see it has a fair chance to help them along in this process BTW.

The problem with Atlantic anemones is mostly condys, who will not recognize the clown/host relationship. Good shot with a BTA.

And to your first point, maybe you are more right than I lol

[Clownfish518]

Good post from the Breeders Registry. An LTA is a burrowing anemone, and will retract all the way under the substrate if it is deep enough. As bristle worms are a natural resident of these conditions in the wild, I am not too concerned with them bothering an anemone in a tank. I know for a fact that LTAs prefer "dirty" sandbeds.

[Basile]

For those who are wondering why i just don't post the links of these Text or study; their's a very good reason why i do it this way. On one of my threads, the link that i provided earlyer, are no longer good for some reason. It has also occur on the threads of others i've been reading, the links they had provided no longer worked. So to avoid this situation and loose some good info, i preffered to copy and paste the info directly. Some might be offended by it but thats the reason behind it. Anyways ; everybody knows i'm not that smart

[Basile]

Scientific Name : Entacmaea quadricolor
Common Names : Bulb Tentacle Anemone, Rose Bubble Tip Anemone, Maroon Sea Anemone

Care Level : Moderate to Difficult

Size : up to 12 inches (30 cm)

Life span : Extremely long life spans in the wild.

pH : 8.1 - 8.4

Temperature : 75°F - 82°F (25°C - 28°C)

Specific Gravity : 1.023 - 1.025

Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°

Tank Light : Minimum recommended lighting levels would be 50/50 (actinic/10,000k daylight bulbs) power compacts in tanks with standard depth (24 inches). For tanks deeper than 24 inches you'll need HO, VHO or Metal Halides.

Origin / Habitat : Fiji, Singapore

Temperament / Behavior : They can move around the tank to find a suitable location. Ledges in live rock up off the sand substrate are often preferred locations. They can sting tank inhabitants with their tentacles, although it seems that it may be less potent than other anemone species.

Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Both asexual and sexual breeders. They most often will clone themselves by splitting.

Tank Size : 30 gallon (114 liters) minimum

Compatible Tank Mates : Can be considered for reef tanks.

Clownfish that may host with this anemone :
Amphiprion akindynos - Barrier Reef Clownfish
A. clarkii - Clark's Clownfish
A. frenatus - Tomato Clownfish
A. melanopus - Red and Black Clownfish
A. ocellaris - Ocellaris Clownfish - our Ocellaris clowns do not host with our bubble tip...
Premnas Biaculeatus - Maroon Clownfish
Also see: Clownfish Anemone Chart

Anemone Disease : Can be difficult to diagnose symptoms and corresponding diseases in anemones. Tanks with insufficient light and insufficient anemone feeding will often see them wither away after a few months. They prefer saltwater higher in specific gravity. Aim for water in the 1.023 - 1.025 range. Beware that anemones that are dying are believed to release toxins into the water that can harm or even kill tank inhabitants.

Diet / Fish Food : Supplemental feedings (twice per week) have been anecdotedly reported to induce cloning. Feeding can play an even more important role in tanks will lower lighting levels.

Tank Region : Slow moving, but often stationary in the tank once they find a suitable location.

Gallery Photos : Bubble Tip Anemone Photos

Similar Species : Sea Anemone Species, Condy Anemone

The Bubble Tip Anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor) has the reputation of being one of the easier sea anemones to keep and comes in a few different colors or varieties. There is a brown, green and even a pink colored variety which is commonly known as the Rose Bubble Tip Sea Anemone. The signature of this anemone is the bulb tips that form towards the ends of the anemone's tentacles. There is much debate and speculation as to why these tips form. Some think that very high lighting levels are required or even that more actinics are required in the lighting scheme and other hobbyists feel that frequent and varied feedings are required. Whatever the reasoning for these bulbs forming, for long term success with this anemone you'll need to provide high output lighting such as VHO, HO or Metal Halides. Power Compact lighting might work in shallow tanks. Supplemental feeding is a good idea too.
There are many clownfish species that will host with this anemone (see below), with the most common being the Maroon Clownfish. You don't need to have a clownfish to keep an anemone, though watching the symbiotic relationship between the clownfish and the anemone is one of the most fascinating aspects of aquarium keeping. The opposite holds true as well. You don't have to keep an anemone if you want to keep clownfish.

As mentioned previously you will want to feed them once or even twice a week with either fresh, raw shrimp, clams, mussels, etc. Chop or slice this fresh seafood into very small pieces and use a feeding stick or tank tongs to give the anemone the food. We like to use a home made feeding stick that is 3 chop sticks taped together. Place the food on the end of the feeding stick and then gently place it on the tentacles of the anemone. They should grasp at it or show some other feeding response.

As far as water quality goes, aim for a higher specific gravity (1.023 - 1.025) and keep the water parameters in good condition via partial water changes. The water changes should help replenish needed elements but you may also want to use an iodine supplement in between water changes.

Anemones can live for a very long time and like your fish, they are a major commitment.


















Good Points- Normal reef lighting is enough (above 4 watts per gal.) for this type of anemone and may be more than enough. Nitrate levels below 20 ppm are preferred. Small ones may reproduce asexually in your aquarium by dividing into two smaller anemones. Their sting is rather weak and won't harm your other fish. They are accepted by Clarki-type clowns, all the different tomato-type clowns, maroon clowns and sometimes, although very rarely, percula and ocellaris clowns.

Bad Points- These anemones tend to wander around the tank more than others, sometimes causing their own deaths from lack of light or being sucked through a powerhead. They like to have their foot shaded inside a crevice in the rock or coral with their tentacles in the light. This preference might be met by placing a short piece of PVC pipe, sized to the anemone, where you want the anemone to stay and putting its base into the pipe. They seem to be sensitive to being shipped. Make sure the one you pick out has a tight mouth and is firmly attached to something in the dealers tank. Any anemone that is not attached to something in the dealers tank is probably not healthy. In addition, when the dealer tries to remove the anemone from the tank the anemone should show some type of reaction, usually they contract.










Comments and Tips:

From: Bob
I was told by the fish store that my bulb tip will host my Ocellaris Clownfish. It's been several weeks now and the Ocellaris won't go near it. After further research, I've come to the conclusion that the bubble tip should not be a recommended host for Ocellaris Clowns, even though it seems that nearly all the other clownfish species will host with the bubble tip. Just my luck!
I'm going to keep this anemone anyway since it seems to be doing quite well under my VHO bulbs. I love the way the tentacle colors change depending on which lights are on. It looks pink under the 10,000k bulbs but looks more green under the actinics.



From: Kristoffer
A friend of mine bought a bubble tip last month, and he already had an oscellaris clown in his tank. It took no more than a day for the clown and the anemone to pair up, and the clown never strays from its host. I find it interesting that some people have difficultly pairing oscellaris with bubble tips because most of the reef-keepers I've talked to keep that pair and have no trouble whatsoever.


From: Anonymous
Bob, you could try printing out a picture of an ocellaris hosting in a BTA. and then putting the picture on the side of the tank for a couple of weeks. and the clowns should host in it.
I know it sounds crazy, but I've actually read about others trying this very thing, with mixed results.


From: Denise
HELP! I've had a beautiful bubble tip for about 2 weeks and I thought that it was dying because it shriveled up and looked like it was dead, the next morning, it was beautiful again, now it looks that way again. Will it look normal again tomorrow? Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? My PH, salinity, nitrates, etc. are all perfectly normal ranges.
We need some more information on the lighting your using such as the lighting type (power compacts, vho, T5, metal halides?) the intensity and duration. What's the tank temperature at? Are you feeding your anemone every couple of days? It is very beneficial to give them small pieces of silversides, fresh seafood meaty pieces, etc. The contracting is often seen after a meal and maybe when they are unhappy with their surroundings or water quality. Do keep them well fed and hopefully you have adequate lighting for your anemone. If not, please consider returning it to the store.


From: TammiKatt
Denise - I have gone through the same thing. I thought Bubbles was a goner, and my husband found out that they shrink up like that when they are eliminating waste. I checked with my LFS, because they had one that was looking the same way. It can do it at intervals, typically, once a day. Mine did it twice in one day.
My oscellaris still hasn't formed a relationship with my BTA, either, and it's been two weeks. It could be that my Nemo was tank raised and doesn't know what an anemone is for. Or just a preference thing, or requires more time.

[Clownfish518]

I would like to correct the information in the above post. When feeding anemones, do not feed them anything larger than their mouth. Also, feeding them whole foods is preferred as the internal organs from the prey is a source of minerals. Dicing up food should be discouraged.

Also, BTAs can come from two different parts of the reef. Shallow, and deeper water. The shallow specimens reproduce asexually as well as sexually, spawning on the full moon in April. Deep water specimens reproduce only sexually (again in April). Also, shallow specimens grow to 12". Deep water specimens can grow much larger, to 20" (personal observation).

[Basile]

SEA ANEMONES

CLASSIFICATION

Sea anemones are invertebrates, or animals lacking backbones, in contrast with fishes, which are vertebrates. Over 95% of all the kinds of animals in the world are invertebrates, most of them insects.

Primitive animals, anemones belong to the phylum variously known as Cnidaria (with a silent "c") or Coelenterata ("se-len-ter-a'-ta"). The former name alludes to the cnidae, or nematocysts, that are manufactured by all members of this phylum, and only by them. The latter means "hollow gut," referring to the single body cavity that serves as stomach, lung, intestine, circulatory system, and everything else. There is but one opening (the mouth) into this cavity, through which all water, food, and gametes pass in and out. It is surrounded by few or many tentacles, which are finger-like or filamentous projections, typically studded with nematocysts. They are active in capturing food and transferring it to the mouth, and may be used defensively, too.

Members of Class Anthozoa (which also includes hard and soft corals), sea anemones live attached to firm objects, generally the sea floor, or embedded in its sediments. An anemone's mouth points generally away from the substratum, and is surrounded by relatively short tentacles. Unlike most other anthozoans, sea anemones lack skeletons of any sort and are solitary. Anthozoans such as corals commonly exist as colonies, with many anemone-like individuals attached to one another. Each cylindrical individual is called a polyp. Members of the other three cnidarian classes may exist as polyps, but additionally (or exclusively) as medusae (singular is medusa). A medusa is little more than an upside- down polyp lacking a skeleton, free to swim in the open sea, with somewhat lengthened tentacles -- in short, a jellyfish.

By contrast with their fish symbionts, the 10 host anemones are not all closely related to one another. Belonging to anthozoan Order Actiniaria (hence the term "actinian"), they are members of three different families. The Actiniidae, of which Entacmaea and Macrodactyla are members, is the largest family of sea anemones, and that to which most common, temperate, shore species belong. The exclusively tropical Stichodactylidae, with genera Heteractis and Stichodactyla, is the main host family. Also tropical, Thalassianthidae contains three genera, including Cryptodendrum. Unlike the fish, in which all members and only members of damselfish subfamily Amphiprioninae are symbiotic, most members of families Actiniidae and Thalassianthidae do not participate in symbioses with fishes, and there are also some non-symbiotic stichodactylids.

IDENTIFYING SEA ANEMONES

Nearly all publications on anemone identification are technical. They deal with features such as nature of the animal's muscles, size and distribution of nematocysts, and arrangement of tentacles in relation to internal anatomy. Such characters, which are retained in preserved specimens, require dissection and histological examination to study. They are used partly because most species from the tropics (especially prior to the 20th century) and from deep seas (until the recent advent of submersibles) were originally known only from preserved specimens. We believe actinians can be identified in the field, based on appearance and habitat, although some experts consider nematocyst analysis essential.

A sea anemone is an extremely simple animal. It may be thought of as a cylinder that is closed at both ends. The lower, or pedal, end may be pointed for digging into soft sediments. In anemones of most families, like the host actinians, it is adapted as a pedal disc, which attaches firmly to a solid object like a coral branch or rock (often buried in sediment). In the center of the oral disc, at the opposite, unattached end, is the mouth. Hollow tentacles, arising from the oral disc, surround it. They may be few or many, and arrayed in radial rows or in circlets. Their form is highly diverse -- short or long, thin or thick, pointed or blunt, globular or tree-like. Tentacle number, form, and arrangement are very important in distinguishing genera and species. The cylindrical column (body) of anthozoans is not completely hollow, the name Coelenterata notwithstanding. In sea anemones, vertical partitions (mesenteries) extend from the column wall across the central space part or all of the way to the throat (actinopharynx). Viewed in cross-section, the column therefore resembles a wheel with spokes. Mesenteries also attach on the underside of the oral disc (the radiating lines of attachment may be visible in an animal that is well expanded, has few tentacles, and/or has a thin oral disc), and tentacles arise between them.

In animals with few tentacles, much of the oral disc, the mouth, and sometimes even the upper end of the throat, into which the mouth opens, are visible. The disc can be radially or circularly patterned; the mouth, which can be circular or elongate, may be elevated on a conical projection and may differ in colour from the oral disc.

The column is appropriately tapered to accommodate a pedal and/or oral disc of smaller or greater diameter than itself. In most species of host actinian, the oral disc is much broader than the column. The column, which may be patterned (commonly splotches of colour or longitudinal stripes), can also bear specialized structures along part or all of its length. For example, some tropical anemones (but none that hosts clownfishes) have branched projections from the lower column. Most host actinians have, in the upper part, longitudinal rows of small warts (verrucae; singular is verruca) to which particles of gravel may adhere; commonly these are pigmented differently from the rest of the column.

Sea anemone colour pattern can be important for field identification, but colour itself, being highly variable in most actinians, is of little diagnostic value. Symbiotic algae may affect anemone (as well as coral) colour, either by imparting their own golden brown colour, or by stimulating the animal to produce a pigment that protects the algae against excessive sunlight. Therefore, anemones often blend in with corals and with sand, explaining how such large animals may be so difficult to detect in nature.

Presence or absence of verrucae is a character defining genera. Thus, all species in a particular genus do (e.g. Stichodactyla) or do not (e.g. Entacmaea) have verrucae. Arrangement of tentacles is also important in defining genera. There may be one tentacle per space between mesenteries (so that number of tentacles equals number of mesenteries attaching to the oral disc) or there may be more than one tentacle between each two mesenteries. Members of the family Actiniidae have one tentacle per space. Anemones of families Stichodactylidae and Thalassianthidae can have so many tentacles because up to several, radially arrayed rows of tentacles arise from alternate spaces (the endocoels), whereas only one tentacle arises from the other spaces (exocoels). The single tentacle is positioned at the very edge of the oral disc (margin). This arrangement may be obvious when the animals are well extended.

Keys and descriptions may not work well with captive animals. As explained in chapter 6, aquarium-kept anemones can lose their colour after a remarkably short time, probably because their algae do not thrive under artificial conditions, and tentacle shape may also change. Fish symbionts should not be used to identify anemones in captivity, as they can be in nature, because many fishes can acclimate to most host anemones.

CRYPTODENDRUM ADHAESIVUM KLUNZINGER, 1877

Adhesive Sea Anemone









Original description As Cryptodendrum adhaesivum, from a specimen collected at Koseir in the Red Sea

Other name previously used Stoichactis digitata (by Doumenc 1973)

Diagnostic field characters Tentacles extremely sticky; short (to 5 mm long), dense, of two forms: those in center of oral disc have narrow stalk with five or more short branches at end (i.e. resembling a miniature glove); those near the edge simple elongate bulbs about 1 mm diameter; at extreme margin is a ring of tentacles like the central ones but with fewer branches. Tentacles of the two forms usually different colours: observed combinations include yellow and pink, blue and gray, green and brown; occasionally tentacles of another colour occur in patches amid those of predominant colour.

Details Oral disc to 300 mm diameter, flat when expanded, but commonly undulating. Entirely covered with tentacles except immediately around mouth, which can be fuchsia, yellow, green, white. Moreover, tentacle stalk and tips may differ in colour. Therefore, may be extremely colourful animal.

Similar species Specimens of Stichodactyla are superficially similar, with many, short tentacles. However, the two distinct types of tentacles arrayed in separate fields is a feature unique to C. adhaesivum. Tentacles of other species may adhere, and pull off the anemone; those of C. adhaesivum remain attached to the anemone.

Distribution Australia to southern Japan and Polynesia, Micronesia, and Melanesia westward to Thailand, Maldives, and the Red Sea

Fish A. clarkii

ENTACMAEA QUADRICOLOR (RÜPPELL AND LEUCKART, 1828)

Bulb-Tentacle Sea Anemone

Original description As Actinia quadricolor, from specimens collected in the Red Sea, near Suez

Other names previously used include Gyrostoma heliant[h]us (by Fishelson 1970, Masry 1971, Fricke 1974), G. quadricolor (by Fishelson 1970, Fricke 1974), Physobrachia ramsayi (by Mariscal 1970, Friese 1972, Mariscal 1972, Uchida et al. 1975), P. douglasi (by Allen 1972, 1975, 1978, Ross 1978, Cutress and Arneson 1987), Radianthus gelam (by Allen 1972, 1978, Friese 1972), Cymbactis actinostoloides (by Moyer and Sawyers 1973), Parasicyonis actinostoloides (by Uchida et al. 1975 as P. actinostoroides, Moyer 1976, Moyer and Bell 1976), P. maxima (by Uchida et al. 1975, Moyer 1976, Moyer and Bell 1976)

Diagnostic field characters Each long (to 100 mm) brown tentacle usually with bulb at or somewhat below end; tip of tentacle red (rarely blue), equator of bulb white. Bulb seems to be related to presence of fish, and can disappear; tentacle lacking a bulb has white ring where equator would form. Tentacles without bulbs are blunt-ended. As a rule, in shallow water (e.g. on tops of reefs) polyps small (oral disc diameter 50 mm), clustered together in crevices or adjacent on coral branches, so that tentacles are confluent, forming extensive field; in deep water (e.g. on reef slopes) polyps solitary, large (to 400 mm diameter), with base anchored in deep hole.

Details Animal commonly attached deeply in crevice or hole so that only emergent tentacles visible. Column without verrucae; usually brown, sometimes reddish or greenish; gradually flared from small pedal disc. Oral disc same brown colour as tentacles. Tentacles can collapse when disturbed, appear gray-green. The most numerous host actinian, widespread geographically and abundant locally.

Similar species The smooth column is unique among symbiotic sea anemones, as are the bulbed tentacles.

Distribution Micronesia and Melanesia to East Africa and the Red Sea, and from Australia to Japan

Fish A. akindynos, A. allardi, A. bicinctus, A. chrysopterus, A. clarkii, A. ephippium, A. frenatus, A. mccullochi, A. melanopus (primarily clustered form), A. omanensis, A. rubrocinctus, A. tricinctus, Premnas (solitary form only)

HETERACTIS AURORA (QUOY AND GAIMARD, 1833)

Beaded Sea Anemone[/b]






Original description As Actinia aurora, from specimens collected in New Ireland

Other names previously used include Radianthus koseirensis (by Mariscal 1970, 1972), Radianthus simplex (by Allen 1972, Moyer 1976), Bartholomea sp. (by Uchida 1975)

Diagnostic field characters Tentacles to 50 mm long, with swellings (up to 20 on long tentacles) at intervals, either on only one side or nearly surrounding a tentacle so that it resembles a string of beads. Swellings often white. Oral disc broad, to 250 mm or possibly more, spread flat or slightly undulating at surface of sediment.



Details Tentacles brown or purplish, arising from oral disc of the same colour; outermost tentacles may be shorter than inner, and can have purplish or greenish cast. Oral disc mostly visible because of sparse tentacles; may have white or brown radial markings that can continue onto tentacles. Tentacles may be sticky to touch; tapered to point that may be magenta in colour. Adhesive verrucae on upper column lighter in colour than column; lower column often mottled or solid orange or red. Animals attached to buried objects capable of retracting completely into sediment.

Similar species Macrodactyla doreensis, Heteractis malu, and H. crispa also live burrowed into sediment. Tentacles of the other two species of Heteractis may also be magenta-tipped, but those of H. aurora are unique in having swellings at intervals. Tentacles of H. aurora are intermediate in length between those of H. malu (shorter) and H. crispa and M. doreensis (longer). Tentacles in some individuals of H. aurora nearly as sparse as those of H. malu. The column of H. aurora is similar in texture to that of H. malu.

Distribution Micronesia and Melanesia to East Africa and the Red Sea, and Australia to the Ryukyu Islands

Fish A. akindynos, A. allardi, A. bicinctus, A. chrysogaster, A. chrysopterus, A. clarkii, A. tricinctus

HETERACTIS CRISPA (EHRENBERG, 1834)

Leathery Sea Anemone

Original description As Actinia crispa, from specimens collected in the Red Sea

Other names previously used include Radianthus kuekenthali (by Mariscal 1970, 1972, Uchida et al. 1975, Moyer 1976), R. malu (by Allen 1972, 1973, 1975), R. ritteri (by Allen 1978), H. macrodactylum (by Cutress and Arneson 1987)

Diagnostic field characters Tentacles long (typically to 100 mm), sinuous, evenly tapered to point, often tipped mauve or blue, rarely yellow or green. Oral disc widely flared, may exceed 500 mm diameter, but commonly 200 mm. Column gray in colour, leathery in texture, with prominent adhesive verrucae; lower part rarely mottled with yellow. Column buried in sediment so oral disc lies at surface of sediment, or pedal disc attached to branching coral.

Details Tentacles very numerous -- to 800 counted. Oral disc usually brownish violet or gray, rarely bright green. Tentacles shrivel when animal is disturbed, and assume green or gray luster; may shorten greatly in absence of fish. For an animal attached to coral branches, verrucae adhere to branches, holding oral disc open among them; verrucae adhere to sediment particles if animal lives in sediment.

Similar species Heteractis magnifica rarely lives on branching coral. Its blunt tentacles and brightly coloured column are distinctive. Macrodactyla doreensis, Heteractis aurora, and H. crispa also live burrowed into sediment. In contrast to anemones of those three species, H. crispa has many, long tentacles. Those of the other two burrowing species of Heteractis may also be magenta-tipped. Tentacles of H. crispa may contract in the absence of a fish, but they are more numerous than in H. malu, and lack the swellings of H. aurora. The column of H. crispa is unique among host actinians.

Distribution French Polynesia, Micronesia, and Melanesia to the Red Sea, and Australia to Japan

Fish A. akindynos, A. bicinctus, A. chrysopterus, A. clarkii, A. ephippium, A. latezonatus, A. leucokranos, A. melanopus, A. omanensis, A. percula, A. perideraion, A. polymnus, A. sandaracinos, A. tricinctus

HETERACTIS MAGNIFICA (QUOY AND GAIMARD, 1833)

Magnificent Sea Anemone

Original description As Actinia magnifica, from specimens collected at Vanikoro, Santa Cruz Islands, New Hebrides

Other names previously used include Radianthus ritteri (by Mariscal 1970, 1972, Allen and Mariscal 1971, Allen 1972, 1975, 1978), R. paumotensis (by Allen 1972, Friese 1972), R. macrodactylus (by Uchida et al. 1975), R. malu (by Allen 1978), H. ritteri (by Cutress and Arneson 1987)

Diagnostic field characters Typically occupies fully exposed, prominent position, attached to solid object such as coral boulder. Cylindrical column of uniform bright colour (commonly blue, green, red, white, chestnut brown). Oral disc to 1 m diameter (although commonly 300-500 mm), flat to gently undulating, densely covered with finger-like tentacles (to 75 mm long) that hardly taper to blunt or slightly swollen end. May irritate human skin and raise welts.

Details Lower portion of tentacles same colour as oral disc (usually shade of brown), terminal portion yellow, green, or white; some tentacles bifurcate or with side branch. Tentacles approach mouth to within 20-30 mm; central oral disc yellow, brown, or green, often raised so that mouth sits on a cone. Column with longitudinal rows of translucent verrucae same colour as column or slightly lighter or darker. Animal capable of almost complete contraction so that only a tuft of tentacles is visible in center.

In western Indonesia, several small individuals of identical colouration may cluster together, resembling one large animal. Elsewhere (e.g. Maldives, Malaysia, French Polynesia), tens or hundreds of identically coloured individuals form extensive beds; presumably they constitute a clone.

Similar species This is probably the most distinctive and most commonly photographed species of host actinian. Its exposed habitat is unique, as is its brightly coloured, gently flared column. Only Stichodactyla mertensii may exceed it in diameter, but H. magnifica is a much more substantial animal. Its blunt tentacles are unique in the genus; those of S. haddoni are similarly shaped but shorter and more densely arrayed.

Distribution French Polynesia to East Africa, and Australia to the Ryukyu Islands

Fish A. akallopisos, A. akindynos, A. bicinctus, A. chrysogaster, A. chrysopterus, A. clarkii, A. leucokranos, A. melanopus, A. nigripes, A. ocellaris, A. percula, A. perideraion

HETERACTIS MALU (HADDON AND SHACKLETON, 1893)

Delicate Sea Anemone

Original description As Discosoma malu, from specimens collected at Mer, in the Torres Straits

Other names previously used include Macranthea cookei (by Reed 1971), Radianthus papillosa (by Dunn 1974, Moyer 1976), Antheopsis papillosa (by Cutress 1977)

Diagnostic field characters Tentacles sparse, stubby (rarely to 40 mm long), of variable length even within one radial row, commonly magenta-tipped. Oral disc lies at surface of sediment in which delicate column is burrowed. Column commonly pale cream or yellow colour, may have splotches of deep yellow or orange.

Details Tentacles arise from brown or purplish (rarely bright green) oral disc as much as 200 mm in diameter that may have white radial markings; evenly tapered to point or slightly inflated in middle; lower part same colour as oral disc, but upper portion may have several white rings or green end. Column very thin in expansion; upper part violet-brown (due to zooxanthellae) with longitudinal rows of adhesive verrucae. Anemones can retract completely into sediment; most common in shallow, quiet waters.

Similar species Macrodactyla doreensis, Heteractis aurora and H. crispa also live burrowed into sediment. The columns of all four species may have red or yellow blotches; that of H. crispa is much firmer than that of H. malu (which is similar to that of H. aurora). In contrast to animals of the other three species, H. malu has relatively short tentacles, typically of variable length; tentacles of the other two species of Heteractis may also be magenta-tipped. Tentacles of H. crispa may contract in the absence of a fish, but H. malu has fewer tentacles per radial row; tentacles of H. aurora may be similarly sparse, but have swellings at intervals.

Distribution: Scattered localities from the Hawaiian Islands to Australia and northwards to Japan

Fish A. clarkii

MACRODACTYLA DOREENSIS (QUOY AND GAIMARD, 1833)

Corkscrew Tentacle Sea Anemone

Original description As Actinia doreensis, from specimens collected at Port Dorey, New Guinea, now Manokwari, Irian Jaya, Indonesia

Other names previously used include Macrodactyla gelam (by Mariscal 1972), Radianthus malu (by Moyer 1976), H. gelam (by Cutress and Arneson 1987)

Diagnostic field characters Tentacles few, long (to 175 mm), all alike, sinuous, evenly tapered to point, sometimes (but not invariably) assuming corkscrew shape. Oral disc widely flared, to 500 mm diameter but commonly considerably less, with radial white lines that may extend onto tentacles; lies at surface of sediment. Column buried in sediment; lower part dull orange to brilliant red, upper part brownish with non-adhesive, prominent white round to ovoid (eye-shaped) verrucae in longitudinal rows.

Details Oral disc usually purplish-gray to brown, sometimes with a green cast; tentacles basically same colour but tips may be darker or lighter. When disturbed, tentacles may shrivel or may adhere to collector's hand and pull off. Often found in mud, generally no deeper than 5 m, commonly without fish; can retract completely into sediment.

Similar species Heteractis aurora, H. crispa, and H. malu also live burrowed into sediment, and may have red or yellow pigmentation on the lower column. Tentacles of M. doreensis lack bulges, in contrast to those of H. aurora, are fewer than those of H. crispa, and are longer than those of H. malu. The column of M. doreensis is thin, and has distinctive verrucae. The distribution of this species is the most restricted of any host anemone.

Distribution Japan south to New Guinea and northern Australia

Fish A. chrysogaster, A. clarkii, A. perideraion

STICHODACTYLA GIGANTEA (FORSSKÄL, 1775)

Gigantic Sea Anemone

Original description As Priapus giganteus, from specimens collected in the Red Sea

Other names previously used include Discosoma giganteum (by Gohar 1948, Schlichter 1968), Stoichactis kenti (by Mariscal 1969, 1970, 1972; Allen 1972, 1973, 1978; Uchida et al. 1975)

Diagnostic field characters Deeply-folded oral disc (more pronounced with size), covered with short (average 10 mm), slightly tapering tentacles that typically all vibrate constantly. Tentacles extremely sticky in life, adhering to collector's hand, and pulling off in clumps; but do not cause stinging sensation. Typically in such shallow water that animals may be exposed at low tide.

Details May be extraordinarily abundant. Oral disc rarely as much as 500 mm diameter, usually lies at surface of sand, often among corals; pedal disc attached to buried object. Non-adhesive verrucae on upper column blue to maroon, contrasting with yellowish, pinkish, tan, greenish-blue, or gray-green column. Basal portion of each tentacle colour of the oral disc (often tan or pink); colour of bluntly pointed distal part -- which is what is generally noted as tentacle colour -- commonly brown or greenish, rarely a striking purple or pink, deep blue, or bright green. Much of central oral disc bare, but deep oral disc folds may hide mouth.

Similar species The shallow, sandy habitat is unusual. Stichodactyla mertensii, which lives on hard substrata, has a flat oral disc and distinctive column. Stichodactyla haddoni typically lives in cleaner sand and deeper water, and its oral disc folds are more regular and more separate than those of S. gigantea; tentacle form and fish symbionts of the two also clearly separate them.

Distribution Micronesia to the Red Sea, and Australia to the Ryukyu Islands

Fish A. akindynos, A. bicinctus, A. clarkii, A. ocellaris, A. percula, A. perideraion, A. rubrocinctus

STICHODACTYLA HADDONI (SAVILLE-KENT, 1893)

Haddon's Sea Anemone

Original description As Discosoma haddoni, from specimens collected on the northern Great Barrier Reef

Other names previously used include Stoichactis kenti (by Friese 1972, Moyer and Sawyers 1973), S. gigantea (by Friese 1972), S. haddoni (by Uchida et al. 1975, Moyer 1976, Moyer and Steene 1979).

Diagnostic field characters Slightly to deeply folded oral disc lies on or above sand surface; tentacles either bulbous or with basal "stalk," at the end of which is a blunt or swollen terminal portion that can appear puckered (on close examination). Exocoelic tentacles more robust than the endocoelic ones with which they alternate. Column sturdy.

Details Oral disc diameter commonly 500 mm, rarely 800 mm; yellowish to orange tentacle-free oral area 10-20 mm in diameter. Oral disc, lower portion of tentacles, and column drab -- commonly yellowish or tan. Tentacle ends can be green, yellow, gray, or rarely pink, which can give oral disc a variegated appearance. Exocoelic tentacles usually white, may be up to twice as long as endocoelic, point outward in well expanded animals. Tentacles sticky to touch, may adhere to human skin so strongly that they pull off the anemone; contact with them is painless but can raise welts. Small, non-adhesive verrucae on uppermost column are same colour as column or light rose to purple. Anemone can pull rapidly and completely beneath the sand when disturbed, leaving its fish to hover over the resulting depression.

Similar species Stichodactyla gigantea also lives in sand but typically in shallower water, and folds of its oral disc are less regular and more closely spaced. The oral disc of S. mertensii, which lives on firm substrata, lies fairly flat. The column of S. haddoni is more substantial than that of either, and its tentacles are longer and distinctively shaped. The other species lack robust exocoelic tentacles. Tentacles pull off of S. gigantea as well, but in massive clumps rather than one or several at a time.

Distribution Fiji Islands to Mauritius, and Australia to the Ryukyu Islands

Fish A. akindynos, A. chrysogaster, A. chrysopterus, A. clarkii, A. polymnus, A. sebae

STICHODACTYLA MERTENSII BRANDT, 1835

Mertens' Sea Anemone

Original description As Stichodactyla mertensii, from specimens collected in the easternmost Caroline Islands

Names previously used Stoichactis giganteum (by Mariscal 1970, Allen and Mariscal 1971, Allen 1972, 1973, 1975)

Diagnostic field characters Oral disc to 1 m or even more diameter; tan to white column with longitudinal rows of verrucae pigmented magenta or orange (which appear purplish at depth); non-adhesive tentacles club-shaped to finger-like -- all may be short (10-20 mm long), or some (in patches) very long (to 50 mm or more).

Details This anemone holds the record for oral disc diameter (shape is often more ovoid than circular). Broadly flared oral disc lies smoothly over substratum, following its contours, or undulating slightly, held open by verrucae adhering to underlying coral or rocks, which may be related to this anemone's living only on hard surfaces, often reef slopes. No verrucae below wide upper column, but splotches of pigment continue down short, narrow column in more or less longitudinal streaks. Small pedal disc frequently attached in crevice into which animal can retract (although not rapidly). Tentacles, of uniform diameter, blunt-ended or pointed: short ones all colour of the oral disc, sometimes with narrow white basal portion; long ones may be white-, yellow-, or green-ended. Tan oral disc almost entirely covered with tentacles; yellow or greenish tentacle-free oral area 20-50 mm diameter. Symbiotic fishes may be melanistic.

Similar species Stichodactyla gigantea and S. haddoni live in sand. Their oral discs are wavy, in contrast with that of S. mertensii, and their columns more substantial. The only other host anemone that rivals S. mertensii in size is H. magnifica, which has longer, blunt tentacles and a brightly coloured, cylindrical column.

Distribution Micronesia and Melanesia to East Africa, and Australia to the Ryukyu Islands

Fish A. akallopisos, A. akindynos, A. allardi, A. chrysogaster, A. chrysopterus, A. clarkii, A. fuscocaudatus, A. latifasciatus, A. leucokranos, A. ocellaris, A. sandaracinos, A. tricinctus

[Basile]

The chart on this page lists some of the various anemone species along with compatible clownfish species that they can form a symbiotic relationship with. This relationship is called "sybmiotic" because both species benefit. The clownfish can protect the anemone from predation from certain anemone eating fish species (Racoon Butterfly Fish) and the anemone can protect the clownfish from predation as well. Clownfishes may also provide food in a round about way for the anemone. Any food that the clownfish doesn't eat (bits and scraps) may be consumed by the anemone. They are also thought to feed off of the clownfish waste products, i.e. ammonia.
There are various theories trying to explain why clownfishes can enter anemones while other fish species cannot, but there is no widely accepted scientific explanation for why clownfish can do this. Some scientists think clownfish can live with anemones because they build up a thick layer of mucus, thereby protecting them from the nematocyst stings. Another group believes that clownfishes are covered in anemone mucus that makes it difficult for the anemone to recognize them as a stingable item.

Whatever the reasoning is behind this remarkable phenomenon, it makes a spectacular sight in a saltwater aquarium. Beginners to the saltwater hobby need to be advised that most anemones need intense lighting provided by metal halide lighting systems. They also need trace element supplements added periodically and certain species even need to be feed. Even though there isn't alot of information out there on all the anemone species, try your best to thoroughly research any species before buying them.

If you have a clownfish species that is not listed in the table below and it is hosting with one of these anemones, please let us know.


Anemone Compatible Clownfish Species
Bubble Tip Anemone (Rose Anemone)
Entacmaea quadricolor Amphiprion akindynos - Barrier Reef Clownfish
A. clarkii - Clark's Clownfish
A. frenatus - Tomato Clownfish
A. melanopus - Red and Black Clownfish
A. ocellaris - Ocellaris Clownfish
Premnas Biaculeatus - Maroon Clownfish

Long Tentacle (Corkscrew) Anemone
Macrodactyla doreensis A. clarkii - Clark's Clownfish
A. perideraion - Pink Skunk Clownfish
A. polymnus - Saddleback Clownfish
Premnas Biaculeatus - Maroon Clownfish

Pizza or Carpet Anemone
Cryptodendrum adhaesivum A. clarkii - Clark's Clownfish
A. frenatus - Tomato Clownfish
Premnas biaculeatus - Maroon Clownfish

Sebae Anemone
Heteractis malu A. clarkii - Clark's Clownfish
Premnas biaculeatus - Maroon Clownfish

Magnificent Anemone (Ritteri Sea Anemone)
Heteractis magnifica A. akallapisos - Skunk Clownfish
A. clarkii - Clark's Clownfish
A. melanopus - Red and Black Clownfish
A. ocellaris - Ocellaris Clownfish
A. percula - Percula Clownfish
A. perideraion - Pink Skunk Clownfish

Leathery Sea Anemone
Heteractis crispa A. chrysopterus - Orange Fin Clownfish
A. clarkii - Clark's Clownfish
A. melanopus - Red and Black Clownfish
A. percula - Percula Clownfish
A. perideraion - Pink Skunk Clownfish
A. polymnus - Saddleback Clownfish

Giant Carpet Anemone
Stichodactyla gigantea A. clarkii - Clark's Clownfish
A. ocellaris - Ocellaris Clownfish
A. percula - Percula Clownfish
A. perideraion - Pink Skunk Clownfish

Saddle Carpet Anemone (Haddon's Sea Anemone)
Stichodactyla haddoni A. chrysopterus - Orange Fin Clownfish
A. clarkii - Clark's Clownfish
A. ocellaris - Ocellaris Clownfish
A. percula - Percula Clownfish

Condy Anemone
Condylactis gigantea No reported relationship with clownfishes

Haitian Reef Anemone
Condylactis spp. No reported relationship with clownfishes






Tube Anemone
Ceranthus membranaceus No reported relationship with clownfishes




Rock Anemone
Epicystis crucifer No reported relationship with clownfishes





The chart above is by no means an exhaustive list and should only be used as a rough guide. Some clownfish species not listed may in fact host with an anemone species that is represented above. Some anemone species can be difficult for even advanced aquarists and we strongly urge you to research, research, research before acquiring them.

[Basile]

Condy Anemone


Many marine hobbyists long to keep an anemone in their saltwater tanks. The Condylactis Anemone is often recommended to beginners because Condy Anemones are usually less demanding than many of the other anemones and because they are inexpensive ($5 - $10). Don't let the cheap price tag fool you into thinking that they don't have special requirements because they certainly do. The Condy Anemone needs a well established tank that has been set up for several months (preferably longer) and an aquarium that is showing stable and good water parameter readings.
This animal is photosynthetic and it also needs to eat frozen or fresh fish food preparations. At a minimum, we would recommend at least power compacts with 50/50 bulbs (full spectrum/actinic) along with supplemental feedings every other day, or twice a week. Fresh seafood from the local market such as shrimp and clams work well. Cut the fresh, uncooked seafood into very small pieces and use tank tongs or a turkey baster to deliver the food to the anemone's mouth.

You should be warned that they can move around the tank, albeit slowly. This means that you will need to use foam filters over any power head intakes. Many hobbyists have lost anemones because of an unprotected power filter intake! You will probably not want to keep them in a reef tank with corals because they have a sting that can harm corals, fish and other anemones.

The anemone is not a "natural" host for the clown fishes. However, some hobbyists have reported success with keeping clown fishes with their Condylactis Anemone, whereas others have reported the demise of either the clownfish or the anemone after the introduction.

This can be an interesting anemone to keep and it can be a good one to start with provided that you can meet some of this animal's demands detailed above. Remember that they can live extremely long lives in the ocean and we need to do our utmost to provide the best possible care for them. Some folks think that the key to success for this animal is performing frequent partial water changes (10 - 20% every 2 weeks), supplementing with iodine, having the right light intensity over the tank (at minimum - Power compacts in short tanks and HO, VHO or Metal Halides in tanks deeper than the standard 24 inches) and supplemental feedings with a variety of fresh marine foods.

Share your thoughts below and help others keep this fascinating anemone.

Anemone Picture



Saltwater Anemone Species Profile and Care Information
Scientific Name : Condylactis gigantea
Common Names : Haitian anemone, Pink tipped anemone

Care Level : Difficult

Size : 6 - 10 inches (15 - 25 cm)

Life span : Anemones are thought to live perpetually, or in other words, they can live for an extremely long time in the wild.

pH : 8.1 - 8.4

Temperature : 75°F - 82°F (25°C - 28°C)

Specific Gravity : 1.023 - 1.025

Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°

Tank Light : Minimum recommended lighting levels would be 50/50 (actinic/10,000k daylight bulbs) power compacts in tanks with standard depth (24 inches) and HO, VHO or Metal Halides in deeper tanks.

Origin / Habitat : Caribbean, Western Atlantic

Temperament / Behavior : They can move around the tank to find a suitable location. Corals, fish and other anemones can be harmed by the sting of the condy anemone.

Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Asexual breeders.

Tank Size : 30 gallon (114 liters) minimum

Compatible Tank Mates : Not a good choice for reef tanks because they can sting other sessile animals in the tank. They can also sting and harm smaller fish.

Fish Disease : Can be difficult to diagnose symptoms and corresponding diseases in anemones. Anemones that are dying are believed to release toxins into the water that can harm or even kill tank inhabitants.

Diet / Fish Food : Fresh seafood from the local grocery store in the form of shrimp and clams cut up into very small, fine pieces can be given to your anemone every other day. They are also photosynthetic, which means that they get some of the energy they need from the tank lights. Please don't try to keep these anemones with sub-standard lighting systems.

Tank Region : Slow moving and may affix themselves to a location for weeks at a time only to move to a new spot when they feel like it.

Gallery Photos : Condy Anemone Photos















Similar Species : Sea Anemone Species, Bubble Tip Sea Anemone


Share your experience with keeping this Anemone

From: Jeff
I've had one for over a year now and it still moves all over my 75 gallon tank. I've had to rescue it several times from the power head intakes at the top of the tank, even though there are protective strainers at the bottom of the power heads it still manages to get stuck from time to time. It has some really nice blue tips at the end of it's tentacles and it seems to have grown slightly in the time that I've had it.
I use a home made feeding stick (chopsticks) and feed mine an uncooked, very small piece of shrimp (quarter inch size) 2 times a week. I place the shrimp at the end of the chopsticks and gently touch some of the anemone's tentacles. It will greedily wrap them around the shrimp and I slide the chopsticks away, leaving the piece of shrimp in the anemone's tentacles. It eats quite fast and it only takes about a minute for the shrimp to make it from the tentacles to the mouth. It occasionally will compact itself and expel some sort of brown strainy hairlike substance. I'm assuming this is part of the digestive process...



From: Ometta Martin
I brought a pink tip anemone and it just started moving around my tank. I am afraid that it will sting my other inhabitants. A small blue tang, a scooter blennie, and four snails. This mornig I saw my blue tang on her side, gills moving, but close to the anemone. What are some things I can do to protect my other fish.
If you're talking about this blue tang, they frequently lay on their sides, especially when frightened. I don't think you need to worry about your anemone catching a healthy fish. They may be able to grab a sick or dying fish.


From: Tanya
I bought a condy two days ago and after acclimation I placed him in the tank, gently with a net, placed his foot (pretty pinkish red color) into a crevice of equal size to his foot on a rock, held him there for approx 10-15 seconds, and he firmly attached and has been there since. He doesnt look to be stressed or struggling, he eats whenever given the opportunity, and my two maroon clowns seem to be scoping him out. Wish me luck!
Condys are not a natural host for the maroon clownfish... But you never know in aquariums. Good luck.

[Basile]

Long tentacle anemone = Macrodactyla doreensis

QUICK STATS
Minimum Tank Size: 90 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: Yes
Lighting: Moderate
Waterflow: Medium
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: 1' 8"
Color Form: Black, Purple, Tan
Supplements: Iodine, Trace Elements
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Actiniidae





An excellent choice for anyone contemplating delving into the fascinating world of the sea anemone. The long tentacle anemone offers one an excellent chance of maintaining an anemone in their marine aquarium, even by the novice aquarist. Obviously, having some sort of understanding of what an anemone is, combined with husbandry requirements and essential equipment employment will aid ten fold in the ability to maintain a marine environment that consists of an anemone for one.

The Pacific Long -Tentacle Anemone, or LTA for short, hails from the Indo-Pacific region of the Pacific and is part of the actiniidae family. They are usually found in shallower regions of the reef, due to their need for intense lighting to support their population of single celled dinoflagellates known more effectively as zooxanthellae. Because of this very important scenario regarding zooxanthellae and long tentacle anemones, its crucial to supply metal halide lighting for the best results in maintaining an anemone for an extended period of time. The zooxanthellae housed in the tissue of the pacific long tentacle anemone provides essential food and nutrients to the anemone. In return, the anemone provides its zooxanthellae it own food source known as ammonium for one. The light also provides a photosynthetic process between zooxanthellae and its light source, similar to terrestrial plants and trees and their dependence on the sun for energy among other key components.




LTA's consist of an oral disc, which contains the tentacles and nematocysts used for protection and food capture. In the center of the oral disc is its mouth that is used for swallowing food as well as for waste removal. The long tentacle anemone is a sessile animal that maintains two ciliary upright oral cavities(siphonoglyph) and consists of a single polyp. The long tentacle anemone usually have a reddish colored foot that it uses to adhere itself to rock, glass, or bury in the sand. They also have verrucae, which are small bumps or pimples that surround the outside of its disc and upper foot area. These verrucae are sticky to the touch and basically afford the anemone another form of adhesion to neighboring substrate etc. The verrucae also enables the anemone the ability to attach to substrate for protection against excess light and possible predatory protection.

The macrodactyla doreensis or long tentacle anemones can either have stripped tentacles that are white or cream colored, or consist of multi-colored tentacles such as white with purple tipped tapering corkscrew-like tips to their tentacles.

LTA's require a deep sand bed with small grain sized substrate or a muddy substrate for the best success as again this type of anemone digs into the substrate to immobilize itself. They should not be placed on rock work as they will surely move from there and possibly injure or even kill neighboring corals, gorgonians, sessile invertebrates or even small fish it may encounter in its effort to find its so called "happy place" in the confines of the soft substrate.

The size attained by long tentacle anemones is large, considering the size of most other species of anemone, though not as large as the carpet or magnificent anemone, they will grow to a foot or so in diameter. Because of this larger size, it should be assumed that a large tank size of 75 gallon or greater is being employed.

Because the long tentacle anemone contains strong stinging nematocysts, care must be given in terms of other inhabitants within the tank to eliminate the chances of injury or death to neighboring livestock that may come in contact to the potent sting of the anemone, that will always result in the detrimental consequences being observed by the other animal, and never the anemone.

Feeding of the macrodactyla doreensis anemone is provided by the host zooxanthellae residing in the anemones tissue, and the filter feeding or absorbing through its tissue. On occasion, the addition of a proteinaceous food source such as krill, clam, squid or silverside can and will be digested and offer a nice alternative and different viable solution to a nutritious meal. This should be done once a week or so as providing more food than is actually needed will cause detrimental water parameters issues and other factors that will negate what we all strive for as conscientious marine aquarists.

The collection process, or should I say the purchasing process of selecting the right long tentacle anemone and transporting it ultimately to releasing it into your tank, will take some time and should also take a close eye for examination to ensure that you have chosen the right anemone based on health and color. The selection of the healthiest specimen will greatly increase your odds in the anemone surviving the initial stages of it being introduced into your tanks population.
Often times you will witness the size of an anemone change like day and night. This could be caused by regurgitated food or waste being removed from within. These examples are common and should not be cause of concern. However, becoming smaller in size can have something to do with it deteriorating in health rather quickly. Messenterial filaments may be seen as strands of strings, and may be cause of something not right. Water parameter issue are ultimately the biggest issue that can negatively effect the health and vigor of an anemone. That combined with the way in which you remove the foot from its place of adhesion. This process has lead to more than its share of death of anemones and clams, due to bad removal and untimely removal as well.




The long tentacle anemone is definitely a great way to add an anemone into your diverse marine set-up. They are a step up from the Condylactis or rock and flower anemone in terms of requirements and hardiness, but with initial variables being in check and some research providing knowledge and support, you can have success with a long tentacle anemone and even try to have a clownfish host find its home in the confines of the privacy and protection within the tentacles of the anemone.

Care needs to be addressed, however, regarding the powerheads found with the tank. Powerheads and anemones do not get along very well and the anemone will always take back seat to the powerhead. I have seen so many cases of various species of anemone get wrapped up in the inflow from powerheads with no chance at removing itself and to survive the damage done to the anemone.

These are beautiful animals that should be given so attention to as they can make an excellent addition and add an exclamation point to your tank as a whole. The think of the added benefit of a clown fish hosting an anemone with the tentacles flowing so calmly and the playful clown scurrying in and out of the protective confines of its new home.




Good Points- They are hardy if kept under Metal Halide lights. Under lower light levels they seem to slowly waste away. They come in a variety of patterns and colors including purple. Accepted by Clarki clowns, tomato-type clowns and pink skunk clowns.

Bad Points- They must have bright lighting. They normally live with their base buried deep in the sand and sometimes have a difficult time finding an attachment spot in a reef-type tank.

[Basile]

Sebae anemone = Heteractis malu


Common Name: Anemone - Sebae

Other Common Names: Hawaiian Anemone, Delicate Anemone

Scientific Name: Heteractis (Radianthus) malu (Full Taxonomy)

Group: Anemone

Origin or Range: Indo-Pacific







Ah, the myriad of anemones species that are found in our natural reef environments eventually finding their way into our pet shops. Ranging in size, color, tentacle number and shape as well as ease of maintaining for any period of time in a captive environment. Running the gamut in terms of their vivid coloration and spectacle in the company of any number of amphiprionine species of fish(clown/anemone fish) is truly a priceless gift to anyone that appreciates the under sea world. The Sebae Anemone can be associated with a variety of anemones as is often the case in the reef industry with heteractis sebae, malu and crispa being collectively considered as one in the same. This anemone represents a lustrous splash of color and diversity for a reef or other marine biotope aquarium.

As with the many other suitable anemones that may be employed in a saltwater aquarium, the collection, shipping and handling processes are crucial and often times carelessly neglected, leading to the demise of the anemone before it even makes its way into your aquarium. These techniques are so pertinent to the success of any anemone that if any of these are not carried out properly, it for all intent and purposes is doomed. If the anemone has successfully made it through the transition from ocean to your tank in the most efficient and effective means possible, your anemone will have a good chance of thriving in your aquarium. Of course, the anemone isn't out of the woods yet, as water parameters, lighting, time and patience need to be dedicated to your tank and inhabitants as well. Sebae anemones are no exception and will surely die, if these conditions and suitable human intervention are not met hand in hand.

Sebae anemones are mainly from the Indian Ocean and live in the shallower regions of reefs, where sand, mud and macroalgae are prominent. Sebae anemones require a deep sandy area in which to gain a strong foothold and attach itself. Once it finds an ideal location that offers it the right mix of light and water flow, the sebae anemone will make its permanent residence there.




The so called delicate anemone as sebae's are sometimes called, come in various colors with the most common being tan, pink, red, cream, yellow and white. These anemones sometimes will have a magenta or yellow-green color to the tips of the anemone which makes them a highly colorful, unusual and popular anemone in the reef hobby. Like some of the other species of stichodactyla(carpet anemones), dyes can sometimes be used by wholesalers, dealers and others to try to increase the saleability of these anemones. This is a negative feat by highly irresponsible people trying to make a buck the wrong way as the anemone will most likely die due to this unnatural process that the anemones can't overcome very often. Typically these anemones will be dyed yellow or pink and an easy way to differentiate the dyed from the natural colored sebae anemone is if the tentacles are a different color than the base, it is a natural colored specimen. The tan species of sebae anemone tends to be the most hardy for some reason, maybe due to the zooxanthellae population in its tissue.

Some of the most important requirements for maintaining a sebae anemone are a temperature between 72 and 78 degrees, a pH of 8.2-8.4, intense lighting(metal halides are BEST), moderate water flow, specific gravity around 1.023 and clean water meaning water changes performed weekly and carbon addition. The acclimation process is crucial to getting a sebae anemone off on the right foot and the stability of your water parameters will help to ensure its success in a marine aquarium.

Feeding of these, or any other species of anemone, is not a "must do" proposition for the overall health of maintaining a sebae anemone in a captive environment. Many aquarists have the supreme notion that they have to feed their anemone shrimp, krill, silversides, clam or other proteinaceous foods every other day, or weekly to ensure its health. This urban legend of sorts can't be any further from the truth! Anemones contain zooxanthellae that resides in the tissue of anemones that provides the nutrients they require. They also will absorb nutrients from the water as well, so unless your anemone is shrinking in size, their is a point of over feeding. If you must feed a sebae or any other species of anemone, feed once a week or so and you should be able to sleep better knowing that your place here on earth has been achieved and conquered by our ability to target feed your anemone.






As far as the ease of maintaining a sebae anemone in captivity, their are other better suited species for novice and expert aquarists. The condy, flower/rock anemone, and even the bubble tip and pacific long tentacle anemones will make a nice impact on a marine aquarium, however, with the ease of purchasing a sebae anemones combined with the fact that they offer a stunning appearance especially in the presence of a variety of clown fish to call the anemone home, it is worth the added risk to incorporate a H. malu, H. sebae or H. crispa into your diverse and wonderful marine aquarium. It is a great idea to read about husbandry and compatibility requirements before jumping into a purchase of a sea anemone or other livestock for that matter to afford you the best success and that of your prized collection of marine life.

Difficult to keep anemones
Heteractis crispa or H. malu, Sebae anemone, Singapore anemone, pink-tipped (but not condylactis) anemone
Tentacles range from long and thin to short and fat depending on the condition of the anemone (short and fat usually means it is starting to waste away). Tentacles usually have magenta colored tips although yellowish-green tips are not uncommon. Colors can be dyed yellow, dyed pink, natural pink/purple, natural yellow, tan, but by far the most common is pure white. The oral disk may also have a green sheen under actinic light.


Good Points-They are very common in stores and are usually the least expensive of the host anemones. They are accepted by virtually all clownfish whether they occur together in nature or not. Some not so white specimens can regenerate their symbiotic algae thus becoming a brown color. If you can obtain a tan specimen with long thin tentacles they should do well under conditions similar to that required for bulb anemones.

Bad Points- No one I have spoken with, not even the public aquariums, can keep the white or yellow ones alive for more than 6-8 months. Out of the over 20 responses I received regarding sebaes only 2 anemones had stayed alive for over one year. Both of the anemones were tan in color either when purchased or had turned tan shortly there after. One thought is that sebae anemones may expel their symbiotic algae shortly after capture and when it is completely gone it is not easily replaced. Frank Greco of the New York Aquarium says that he has been successful in getting otherwise healthy sebaes to "color up" by feeding once a week with fresh fish, clam, shrimp or gelatin. They also get live brine shrimp, adult and baby, and a yeast based diet of his own design. In addition to the frequent feedings the anemones are exposed to very bright light, three 400 watt metal halide bulbs over the six foot by six foot, four foot tall anemone tank. If the anemone is not able to replace its zooxanthellae it is doomed to a very slow starvation once in the tank. There are cream colored sebae anemones found in shallow water in the wild, but they are not the transparent white color found in the dealers tanks. These don't seem to be a good beginner's anemone despite articles I have read that say they are.

[Clownfish518]

Hey, I don't know where these posts are coming from but the Malu is not a sebae, and an LTA will definitely outgrow a 30. An LTA can easily reach 2' in diameter with another 4-6" for tentacles.

As for Sebae, I saw Divers Den list a Malu as a Sebae once. I notified them and they changed the listing very quickly as it was incorrect (and apologized). Some of this info is very misleading.

Again, not sure the source so attribution would be nice.

[Basile]

Common Name: Formerly called Radianthus ritteri and now simply the 'Ritteri' anemone or Purple Base Anemone

Species Name: Heteractis magnifica (Quoy & Gaimard, 1833)


Heteractis magnifica, Ritteri, African, yellow-tipped anemone
This anemone is usually rather large. Their tentacles are long with very blunt tips that are lighter in color than the shafts. The base may be red or purple but brown is more common.





Range: Indo-Pacific Ocean: Red Sea to Somoa




Natural Environment: Inhabits shallow reef and lagoon areas where it is usually home to hundreds of various clownfishes and often found in large colonies at depths of 3 to 30 feet (1 - 10 m)







General Husbandry: Has a temperature range of 72 to 82°F (22 - 27°C). Prefers its base attached to rock in open water where there is good water flow and intense light to stimulate its symbiotic zooxanthellae. When light is insufficient, it may expand to capture as much light as possible. Conversely, when it is too bright, it will retract to reduce the degree of oxygen production by its symbiotic algae. Excessive oxygen can actually damage the anemone tissue structure. Excessive UV produced by some metal halides my also damage tissue structure. It likes a spot in the aquarium that provides moderately strong current and very good light intensity. My personal favorite! Seems to prefer a diet of crustaceans rather than other type meaty foods with five or six monthly feedings recommended. Quite hardy and an excellent host for several clownfish species.

H. magnifica is known to host the following species of anemonefishes: A. akallopisos, A. akindynos, A. bicinctus, A. chrysogaster, A. chrysopterus, A. clarkii, A. leucokranos, A. nigripes, A. ocellaris, A. percula, and A. perideraion


Amongst the several large Pacific Anemones naturally symbiotic with the playful Clownfishes (subfamily Amphiprionae), the Magnificent (Heteractis magnifica) ranks near the bottom for inappropriate aquarium use. This is a naturally large (only second to Stichodactyla mertensii in potential size for symbiotic anemones), species that is given to frequent moving... even "ballooning", filling itself with water and floating off to have adventures... Too big and free-roaming for anything but huge hobbyist systems (hundreds to thousands of gallons) with little other stinging-celled life. Want more? Of Anemones the Magnificent requires about the most intense lighting and water movement... and let's top it off with this species propensity to eat your non-hosted aquarium fishes!

Nonetheless, this species does make it into aquarium markets and aquarists tanks... Here is my best shot at informing you what it takes to successfully (as in potentially forever) keep this magnificent animal in captivity.



Heteractis magnifica (Quoy & Gaimard 1833), the Magnificent Anemone. To thirty some inches across (a meter). Tentacles and oral disc of the same color, with a base/pedicle also colored... Typically purplish, but may be red, white/tan, brown, green or blue. Previously and in older literature often labeled as Radianthus ritteri (Hence this species is also often referred to as Ritter's or the Ritteri Anemone). Found widely in the Indo-Mid Pacific; East Africa and the Red Sea to Australia, S. Japan, to the Tuamotu Archipelago (French Polynesia).
Joy in Australia for Percula Clowns


Good Points- They are relatively common in the market. They are accepted by almost every variety of clownfish.

Bad Points- They tend to move to the highest point in the tank, often up the sides of the glass very near the water return pipe. In nature they tend to be found at the highest parts of the reef exposed to strong light and currents. In the aquarium they will need very strong lighting (metal halide) and very strong alternating (wave) currents to do well. They also have a reputation for being able to catch and eat medium sized non-clownfish.

[Basile]

Originally Posted by Clownfish518

Hey, I don't know where these posts are coming from but the Malu is not a sebae, and an LTA will definitely outgrow a 30. An LTA can easily reach 2' in diameter with another 4-6" for tentacles.

As for Sebae, I saw Divers Den list a Malu as a Sebae once. I notified them and they changed the listing very quickly as it was incorrect (and apologized). Some of this info is very misleading.

Again, not sure the source so attribution would be nice.

Hi, thanks for making me look but as of now 5 different site gives me the same answer. Sebae is the common name for Heteractis (Radianthus) malu .

[Basile]

Giant sea anemone
Scientific name : Stichodactyla gigantea





Notwithstanding the name is the smaller Stichodactyla, with a diameter seldom as large as 50 cm. Deeply folded oral disc, short (1 cm), sticky, always vibrating tentacles. Tentacles colour green or brown, seldom purple. The column is whitish, grey greenish, with brown or blue non adhaesive verrucae. Compared with Stichodactyla mertensii is found in different environments (shallow sand vs. reef). Compared with Stichodactyla haddoni it lives in shallower environments, it has longer tentacles, with thin tips and always vibrating, deeper and regularly spaced oral disc folds.

Associated organisms
Obligate association with zooxanthellae, also with anemone fishes like, in our area, Amphiprion ocellaris, Amphiprion clarkii, Amphiprion perideraion. Occasionally with Dascyllus trimaculatus.


Habitat: Lagoon, Sand


Latin name: Stichodactyla Gigantea
Growth: medium / fast grower
Degree of difficulty: easy - medium for advanced reefers
Lighting: low / medium (bulb)
Current: low / medium





Distribution: Indo-West Pacific


Stichodactyla gigantea, Giant carpet, colored carpet
These anemones have short pointed tentacles that seem to constantly vibrate. The tentacles are usually not very densely packed except near the edges of the disk. Specimens with blue, bright green, yellow, or white tipped tentacles can be found and at some times of the year are even common, but light brown is still the most common color. The oral disk often lies in a wave pattern if the anemone is on a flat surface.






Good Points-The colored ones are very pretty! A pink specimen is featured on the cover of Martin Moe's "Beginner to Breeder " book. They are accepted by most clownfish.

Bad Points- They can sting non-clownfish and may even eat other anemones. Giant carpets unlike their relative the saddle carpet seem to be very difficult to keep in captivity. The only report I had of a success died in a move after living for 10 years and the aquarist was unable to have any success with any giant carpets after that. It is possible that the first anemone may have been a saddle carpet rather than a giant carpet, but I haven't been able to find out for sure. One of the reasons for the difficulty in keeping the giant carpets may stem from the fact that most are collected from very shallow water, sometimes less than 3 feet deep. This leads me to believe that it may be difficult for the aquarist to give the anemone all the light that it is accustomed to in nature.