Want a BTA

[fidojoe]

So, now that I've finally got lights that'll support a BTA, I am going to get one. My question is, what is the best way to handle them? I have read that the sting feels like a bee sting, and that is not a feeling that I would like to purposely get, so what can I do to protect myself? Will rubber gloves be enough? I have been looking to invest in a pair or two of those arm length ones.

Thanks

[BoomerD]

It all depends on YOUR sensitivity Joe. I have BTA's and my hands are in the tank all the time. I feed them by hand, I move tentacles if I need to get by or under them, etc. Don't bother me at all, but they do irritate the softer less calloused parts of my arms. Not like a bee sting, but more like (at the worst) getting into nettles. Kind of stingy/itchy to me. A friend who was helping me with my tanks a while bck got into one and it hurt him like a jellyfish sting...Just depends on your sensitivity...REGARDLESS how they irritate or don't, always WASH YOUR HANDS after handling an anemone to rrmove any nematocysts that might be in or on your fingers, so you don't get them in your eyes...I understand that's EXTREMELY painful...

[fidojoe]

Thanks Boomer

I have been stung by a wasp on the back of my leg before, that hurt like a b****, and by a bee on my shoulder, same feeling. Just trying to take precautions in case I am sensitive to it.

[BoomerD]

Never anything wrong with being careful. Use latex gloves or the "aquagloves" and you'll be fine. Maybe experiment later to find out if they bother you. Carpet anemones can hurt like h*ll, one of the most potent stings from an anemone I know of, but
BTA's are (at least to me) pretty docile. I have an LTA and Condy that pack a much more potent punch than any of my BTA's...

[Woodstock]

I feed my BTA's by bare hand too and I've never had a problem. Their tenticles do stick to my fingers for a moment but that's all.

[BoomerD]

Mine too...That's why I rrecommend the washing of hands after doing that...When they stick to your fingers, they're firing the nematocyst "darts" into your skim...If you then rub your eyes or another sensitive part of the body, you can transfer that to the more tender area...Kind of like rubbing your eyes after eating a jalapeno pepper...WAHOO!!

[jimeluiz]

Like they said...

This may be stating the obvious... but...I think it is also worth noting that touching the BTA also stresses the BTA (those nematcysts get pulled out of their tissue and have to regenerate.) So in addition to taking care of yourself, careful handling also keeps them in good condition as well.

FWIW I too have little reaction to the 'sting' from our RBTAs.

[fidojoe]

I got a bta today! I used latex gloves for the time being.

Dunno if its the same, but I can touch my torch coral and the tenticles stick to my fingers, but when they stick to my arm it feels as if someone was pulling at a hair on my arm.

I know I'm not allergic or anything, just not a person who likes pain

[fidojoe]

That thing moves quick!

I put him in the tank about 2/3 down, on the small rock that he came on, and he already moved off it, and he is now under the rock that his rock was placed on. Is that normal for it to go under a rock so fast? About how long does it normally take to come back out?

[BoomerD]

Joe, the sooner you realize YOU have nothing to do with where the anemone goes, the less you'll stress about it. They will travel to wherever they want, looking for that "sweet spot" where the lighting and water flow are to their liking...In some tanks, they never find it, and wander constantly, stinging corals as they go, until something happens like getting sucked into a power head or an overflow or something like that...Have you upgraded your lights from what's poosted in your signature? I hope so. IMO, that's not half enough light for a BTA. While they require a lot less light than most other anemones, they are still a "photosynthetic creature", with zoanthelle algae in their tissues and require a LOT of light.

[fidojoe]

I do realize I have no control over where it goes, but I was simply asking about how much time it takes an anemone to acclimate to a new home. I also do not have many corals that cannot be moved if the BTA decides to venture too close.

Have you upgraded your lights from what's poosted in your signature?

No, I have 220w of PC's over my tank, thats it, I upgraded from 110w of PC's.

they are still a "photosynthetic creature", with zoanthelle algae in their tissues and require a LOT of light.

So, your telling me that 220w of PC's is insufficient for any "photosynthetic creature"? Ummm, I've had corals in my tank for almost a year now, no problems, including a torch for about 5 months, and a candycane for 2 months, both of which are happy. I hope you're not serious that you beleive everything needs that much light, or you are just referring to anemones, cause almost all corals in the aquarium trade house zoxanthelle.

Also, I know someone that has a tank 2 1/2 times bigger than mine who kept 3 BTA's, and a flower anemone or two under 4x96 w of PC's for well over a year and the anemones are still doing great. He has recently upgraded to 2x250w mh over the 125, but only cause he wants to get into SPS.

[BoomerD]

O.K. Joe, I'm not gonna get into an argument with you over something that should be a no-brainer...do the research for yourself...
But yes, IMO, 220 watts of light over a 48x18x13 tank is NOT enough light for any anemone except maybe an aptasia...I have 4x95 w. of VHO over a 40 and that is, IMO, barely enough... and not NEARLY enough for some of the more light demanding anemones like a carpet or sebae...

[fidojoe]

Thats your opinion, and you're entitled to it

I also know a lady whom has a couple 20H tanks, with a 96w powerquad on each, one houses a HUGE 10"+ LTA, and one houses 12 or so RBTA's, and she has also had no trouble keeping them in those conditions. If you think about it, her tanks are 24x13x16, only 2" shallower than me, and slightly less wattage per 24" section than mine, they are about equal if you factor in the extra wattage that I have. I also have a correction, I just looked at my bulbs, and they're all 65w, so I have 260w, not that its a huge difference.

[fidojoe]

BTW, I'm not trying to argue, I'm simply stating that I have seen enought proof that it can be done quite succesfully, so I'm going to try it.

[Craig Manoukian]

What the issue here is not "if" you can do it, but how much risk to the animal if the light is not optimal. BTAs have a very short life span in the aquarium compared to what they experience in nature. If possible it is always best to provide an environment where the animal wil thrive and not just survive.

In general clams, sps, and anenomes need MH lighting because it provides the PAR value at the intensity that is sufficient for all of these light intensive animals. Sufficient PAR values can be achieved in shallower tanks with other lighting, but there is more risk as I indicated before.