Name that anemone!!

[Dragon Wrasse]

Great advise from all....good info Michelle, Thanks.

[rebekwl]

Thanks everyone!

I was TOLD by my "no longer" LFS that the lighting I have is perfectly fine. We have 2 dual power compacts, is that not enough??
The anemone eats well, I usually put the food close to it's mouth and it drags all of it in with its tenticles. It seems to enjoy eating very much. I did notice that when I woke up this morning it had moved. I have heard that this is what they do when they are not happy, is that true? It has been in the same place since I bought it (a few weeks ago) and has never even attempted to move. Now it has moved down and anchored between the rock and the sand, as opposed to on top of the rock which was alot closer to the light. I am confused as to why it would move farther away from the light adn the power head that it amways seemed to love so much. I left the light on the other side of the tank off this morning, so it hopefully won't try to go over there, because i do not want it to get stuck in the return. I don't think it could handle that much stress right now. I know we are planning to go to the LFS this weekend, so I may take it back. My husband will not listen to me though, and thinks there is nothing wrong with it. He's convinced himself that it's perfectly fine, lighting and all, and that we are keeping it. I seriously don't know what to do, I don't want to be responsible for killing the poor thing, but it's his too and he seems dead set on keeping it. You have all given me some great advice, and I would prefer to take it back. I guess that's between my husband and I now though.

My Nitrite levels have dropped back down to 0 so there is some progress in my tank. I also used a fresh water amonia test kit, that came with the QT tank I bought. Do you think it is ok to use with salt water, or do yo think it will not be accurate?? It showed a small amount of ammonia in the water.

I called the nearest LFS yesterday because I was going to go by there to get some Mysis shrimp, they didn't even know what it was!!! Should I have to go to a specialty store to get this type of food, as well as the silversides and pieces of clam??? I have also read that I can feed it blood worms??

What should I get as far as lighting? I want to eventually have some coral and I will of course need the proper lighting for that. Is it pretty spendy??

Thanks to everyone for the great advice!!!

[lcstorc]

If your husband really wants to keep the anemone then ask him to please do some research. That is the best way to convince him. Either that or he will have to learn the hard way. Unfortunately the animal will pay the price for that so try to get him to do some reading and investigating either here or somewhere else. I had a condy when my tank was relatively new and had power compact lighting and it was so stressed it kept splitting until it and it's clones finally died. It might have a chance with the lighting but the new cycling tank is definitely going to cause it stress if nothing else and eventually the lighting will also become a problem for him.
As far as what kind of lighting, it depends on what you want to keep in your tank. If you want fish, LR and soft corals then you will be fine with a good power compact light. You don't mention how many watts and what kelvin rating your current lights are but they may well be fine for this type of a reef. If you want an anemone, clams, and/or hard corals then you need to investigate either metal halide lights or T5 lights. Both are high intensity lights made for keeping the more light demanding species in our tanks. They are quite pricey but you can get a retro kit and do a DIY light and save yourself some money. Another thing to think about when contemplating lighting is the heat put off by the lights. When I added my metal halide lights the heat was enough that I had to buy a chiller to keep my tank temp in line. They also use quite a bit of electricity.
If I were you I would stick with the PC lights for now since you already have them. Once your tank is established and stable try some of the soft corals and see how you do with those. Then down the road you can always upgrade your lights and start adding some of the more light demanding animals.
I am very suprised the store had never heard of mysis. It is a very common staple food. Most LFS will have it. I would check with another one. Is the one who gave you the bad advice the one that has never heard of mysis? It wouldn't suprise me since they seem pretty clueless.
Some people like bloodworms, but personally I never got anything in my tank to eat them so I quit buying them. I have heard of others using them with success so I guess my tank is just strange.
I really have no idea about the FW amonia test. I would go ahead and buy a SW test kit since this is something you really need to have around long term anyway.
Hope that helps. Looks like things are starting to improve for you. I am happy to see it.

[Cougra]

Lynn gave you some good advice! I understand how easy it is to get attached to an animal but sometimes we need to make some tough choices.

As for the anemone moving, there can be a lot of reasons why it moved now and didn't before. Since you have been feeding it, it may now have enough energy to move whereas it didn't before. The current could be off, the lighting could be off, it could feel insecure where it was before, etc. They are mobile inverts and they will move whenever and wherever they want. I wouldn't worry about it too much as it'll find a spot that it likes, not necessarily where you would like it to be.

I agree that the LFS should know what mysid shrimp is. It's a common staple food found in the frozen foods section.

What kind of freshwater ammonia test kit do you have? Some of them work with both freshwater and saltwater, however the colour charts will be slightly different.

[cheeks69]

Originally Posted by lcstorc

Unfortunately the tank is still cycling and she doesn't have the lights.

Well then that's a whole different ball game

As for feeding anemones, that really depends on the lighting available. Even with a very good lighting system, they should have occasional possibly weekly feedings because they don't get 100% of their nutrients from their symbiotic algae. However when they are bleached/white they require very frequent feedings, possibly daily depending on the condition it is in.

If the Anemone has expelled it's zooxanthellea then yes feeding is vital to bring it back to health but if the Anemone is healthy particularly the large Pacific hosting Anemones they don't need to be fed regularly {the exception would be the Haddoni}but there must be proper lighting.

Feeding the the Anemone too frequently can actually kill it. Another issue with frequent target feeding particularly with BTA's and even the Heteractis Magnifica is that they'll split, this is a stress response and it only happens in captivity. Since I have stopped regular target feeding the splits have come to a complete halt in my tank.

Robert Fenner:

Underfeed, underfeed, don't feed! Underfeed, underfeed, don't feed! Most losses in captive systems are the result of over-feeding. How many more times do I feel I need to write this? Bunches! Some anemones have been kept for YEARS without any intentional external feeding. Know your stock! Many anemones (especially larger species) are detritivorous (a polite term meaning they eat poop), planktivorous, and largely chemoautotrophic/photosynthesizing species/individuals that hobbyists try to over-stuff with meaty/prepared foods. My bid for largest cause of loss of anemones is the consequences (lack of oxygen, hydrogen and other sulfide production...) from over-feeding. Cut it out! Within normal temperatures and other conditions, most can and do do well on weekly feedings. If you're going on vacation, leave them alone.

[rebekwl]

Hello everyone, thanks for all of your input.

I finally got the entire SW test kit today and my water peremeters seem to be pretty decent:
Ammonia-0ppm
Nitrite-0ppm
Nitrate-20ppm
Salinity-1.023
pH-8.2
Sounds pretty good huh!?!

My hubby and I have talked about our anemone situation, and I think we are going to keep it. Our water has approved tremendously, and my trusted LFS (over 30 yrs. experience) said that it will probably be fine. He said that condys are generally pretty hardy and it had a good chance of surviving. We're going to listen to him and keep our fingers crossed.

It looks alot better since moving. It's alot bigger than I thought it was, so I'm pretty sure it moved because it outgrew the hole in the rock it called home. It's grown ALOT since I bought it a few weeks ago.

I tried to give it a pice of raw shrimp the other day, and it spit it out. Any clue why it would do that?? I gave it a whole small shrimp, too much? I will try cutting it in 1/2 when I feed it tomorrow. Is feeding every 3 days, ok, as long as there is a variety, or would every other day be better??? I deffinitely don't want to kill it by overfeeding it.


I checked on the lights, there are 4 15w power compacts. I did not see anything about the kelvin rating though. They look ALOT brighter than the lights in either if my fresh water tanks. I know the guy that had the tank before us used it to grow plants. I will have to check into the halide and T5s for the anemone, and hopefully will eventually be able to have some hard corals and more light demanding specimens. I REALLY want a clam one day, so I will deffinitely have to check into the lighting situation!!

What exactly is zooxanthellea? I have seen it expell a slimy brown substance, thought maybe that's what it was. I've only seen it do this once though, about a week ago, not sure what it does when I'm not home. Does it seem pretty healthy? I swear it's grown 3x the size it used to be!!

I have to wonder too, about the splitting. I was reading a thread the other day (not sure who's, sorry) where the guy was so excitied about his anemone splitting, so "im thinking this is a grea thing. But then I read on here where it can be caused by stress. How do they reproduce if not by splitting, and when can you tell whether or not it is from stress??

Thanks to all, I appreciate your advice as always!!

[cheeks69]

What exactly is zooxanthellea?

zooxanthellae- a microscopic yellow-green alga that lives symbiotically within the cells of some marine invertebrates, especially corals.

Eric Borneman:

Zooxanthellae are acquired by corals in two ways: first, they may be given a "starter culture" by the parent if the parent colony broods its planulae. Alternately, in corals that release sperm and eggs into the water and where fertilization takes place externally in the water column, planulae (lacking zooxanthellae) can swallow the algae from the water column. Once swallowed, the algae are not digested but are brought into the cell and put into a small intracellular bag called a vacuole. Once inside the vacuole, they are "trapped" and somewhat at the mercy of the coral polyp. The golden brown algae reproduce within the cell and form a dense, but very thin layer within the polyp. The zooxanthellae are found mainly in the inner tissue layer of corals called the gastroderm, although they can occasionally be found in the outer layer (ectoderm) and are in the tentacles of day-feeding corals. Night feeding corals have transparent tentacles that normally lack zooxanthellae.

Once inside the polyp, zooxanthellae are provided nutrients that are controlled, and usually limited, by their host. In return, the algae use sunlight to photosynthesize and provide the energy rich products of photosynthesis (photosynthate) to the coral polyp. The nutrients for the zooxanthellae are mainly the products of coral metabolism; that is, carbon dioxide and nitrogen.
One of the advantages to living within polyp tissue is that zooxanthellae have constant access to nitrogen in the form of coral metabolic waste products. In contrast, the usually nitrogen deficient seawater may not be able to provide a plentiful source of nitrogen for growth and reproduction. However, the coral can and does control the amount of waste released intracellularly to the zooxanthellae, excreting any excess back into the seawater. Under normal conditions, the balance is very precise and there is very little deficiency or excess, with virtually all of the coral's metabolic waste consumed by a precisely moderated population of zooxanthellae.

I have seen it expell a slimy brown substance, thought maybe that's what it was.

The opening to the Anemone serves as both the mouth and the anus, so it could be one of two things:

1.expelling waste
2.expelling zooxanthellae

Since you've been feeding it frequently and say it appears healthy then maybe it's expelling waste but can't say for sure at this point !

As I have mentioned overfeeding can be a problem and lead to stress so reduce the feedings to once a week. Do you notice a reaction by the Anemone when you feed it ? Is the Anemone sticky to the touch ?

I have to wonder too, about the splitting. I was reading a thread the other day (not sure who's, sorry) where the guy was so excitied about his anemone splitting, so "im thinking this is a grea thing. But then I read on here where it can be caused by stress. How do they reproduce if not by splitting, and when can you tell whether or not it is from stress??

We're all happy when we see reproducion in the aquarium even if 's asexual but as I have said this isn't necessarily a good thing for the Anemone and it's not something that normally happens in the wild.

The sexes in sea anemones are separate. Both sexual and asexual reproduction may occur. In sexual reproduction males release sperm which stimulates females to release eggs, and fertilization occurs. The eggs or sperm are ejected through the mouth.

[lcstorc]

If it won't take the shrimp try smaller food like mysis. Some of the top saltwater experts say it is much better to feed them the smaller food as they can digest it more easily.
One other thing about the Condy that you should know ant I don't think has been mentioned before. Clowns very rarely will host in a Condy. It is not one of their natural hosts. When I had mine none of my fish including my clown would even go to the end of the tank with the Condy, It also got very very large very quickly.
You said it wouldn't eat the shrimp. Did it grab onto it and then realease it or did it not grab it at all? If it didn't grab it all all you should check and see if it is still sticky to the touch. That is usually one of the first signs that it is doing poorly.

[rebekwl]

Originally Posted by lcstorc

Clowns very rarely will host in a Condy. It is not one of their natural hosts. When I had mine none of my fish including my clown would even go to the end of the tank with the Condy

You said it wouldn't eat the shrimp. Did it grab onto it and then realease it or did it not grab it at all? If it didn't grab it all all you should check and see if it is still sticky to the touch. That is usually one of the first signs that it is doing poorly.

I had a saddle back clown that LOVED the anemone. Any chance it's a different type of anemone?

It actually put all the shrimp in its mouth, and then spit it out during the night. I cut it up for him this morning to see if he will eat it.

Do you notice a reaction by the Anemone when you feed it ? Is the Anemone sticky to the touch ?

it always reacts to the feedings by pulling the food into its mouth, yes it is very sticky to the touch. I'm hoping it is just fine...

[rDr4g0n]

4 15w power compacts isnt much light... under those lights i dont think its possible for his zooxanthellae to recover.

[rebekwl]

Thanks, I was talking to my LFS yesterday and he advised I get brighter lights also. Any idea what wattage I should have??

[rDr4g0n]

Originally Posted by rebekwl

Thanks, I was talking to my LFS yesterday and he advised I get brighter lights also. Any idea what wattage I should have??

can you post info about your tank?

i meant to add this to my previous post, but forgot. one thing i always tell people that are just getting into the hobby is to ask for advice from other reef addicts, and not from people that are trying to make a sale!

there are honest LFS employees out there, but its nearly impossible to differentiate.

[rebekwl]

I have deffinitely learned that the hard way!! I like the guy we use now though, he seems pretty trustworthy as far as I can tell. He said he would make us an entire sump system for $200, or sell us a wet/dry system (used) for $150. That's pretty reasonable right?? I actually meant to make up a post about that. Here I go...

[cheeks69]

You can make your own sump for considerably less. You will need a small glass tank, the dimensions will depend on the space under your cabinet, you'll also need some glass baffles and aquarium safe silicone. I don't like the typical wet/dry sumps as their built with bio-balls in mind and there's usually very small amount of space for a quality skimmer. If he can custom build it then the price will reflect that and it's doesn't seem to be unreasonable.

[rebekwl]

[quote=rDr4g0n;250906]can you post info about your tank?QUOTE]

I have a 55 gal, there isn't anything in it right now except the anemone (condi I believe) and about 55 lbs of live rock. We are going to look into brighter lights this weekend, not sure how bright they need to be though. We are also adding a cleaning crew within these next few days...