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Old 12-10-2007, 10:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
Octoman
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GBTA vs. RBTA

You heard right! It's time for the throw down...

I've read roses are more hardy, but greens do better in lower light. Greens are bigger, roses are smaller. What is going on!?!?

I'd like to hear some of the expertise that RS has to offer.

Let's hear those opinions about GBTAs vs. RBTAs (Green vs. Rose Bubble Tip Anemone). Lighting, size, survival, whatever else you want to talk about.
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

Both are hardy. Given good light and excellent water it's a toss up IMO. I've got a small GBTA that my Tomato clown has chosen over my Sebae. As long as your tank is well established and lighting an water parameters are good, you shouldn't have a problem with either.
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

I have seen RBTAs that are HUGE. I agree with the Doc on this one.~Michael
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Old 12-11-2007, 08:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

What kind of lighting have people had success with? I know halides are great, but what about T5s, PCs, VHOs... Same for both G and R?
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Old 12-11-2007, 08:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

BTA's are more light tolerant than many other anemones. That doesn't mean that they don't like and need a lot of light. I wouldn't recommend less than T5s. Mine is under MH. They may survive with VHOs but certainly won't thrive. I really wouldn't recommend PCs. JMHO.
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

Mine is under 250w 10,000k MH's with a light period of 8 hours. I also have T5's which are on fpr an hour before the MH's come on and then on while the MH's are on, then still on for 2 hours after the MH's go out.

I've only had mine for about 3 weeks so the jury is still out but mine is HUGE!!!!

It's an RBTA.
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

i dont have a bubble tip but i have a seabae,i wouldnt recommend keeping one under anything less the t5's..that and clams
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inverts are lots of snails and hermits,crocea clam,maxima clam and seabae anemone,rbta
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

i like the green, i have had sucess with them in not perfect water, and they look really cool with clowns.
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Old 12-12-2007, 12:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

Love my RBTA. It is in a shallow tank with T5s and has moved to the top of the rocks. Seems perfectly happy there,
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Old 12-12-2007, 12:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

I have a RBTA. It was about the size of a baseball when I got it. I kept it under PC's for about a year and it grew to about 9" in diameter. I now have a Solaris G series LED fixture and it has grown another inch or so in 6 months under the LED's.
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:59 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

I have kept RBTA's under PC, T-5, and MH.

I have noticed that under PC's the anemone did not grow very fast over a 1 year period.

After changing over to T-5's the anemone just took off. Split 3 times in a 3 month period.

I now have the same anemone's under MH and they seem to have much nicer coloration, and seem to be growing as well.
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Old 10-09-2008, 11:36 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

Thanks for the input ReefSki
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Live Rock Rubble will do the SAME thing as Bio-Balls and is NOT a suitable replacement for BIO-BALLS in a Reef System! It's ALL gotta go!!

Nitrate (NO3) reduction is directly proportional to percentage of Water Change.
Allen's home-made formula...currentNO3-((%WC*.01)currentNO3)=finalNO3 (thanks Luukosian)
This means if you change 50% of your total water volume (That's EVERYTHING) you'll get a net reduction of (NO3) somewhere around 50%.

Ask me about how to increase your REEF budget without going without FOOD!!

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Old 10-09-2008, 11:40 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

Quote:
Originally Posted by ReefSki View Post
After changing over to T-5's the anemone just took off. Split 3 times in a 3 month period.
That seems like a lot of splitting in a short amount of time and may be due to the stress of being moved to different lighting or some other factor other than the lighting. Generally, splitting is a survival mechanism and not a form of growth.
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Old 10-09-2008, 12:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

*Nodding* It's the animal trying to get at least ONE part of it to a more "survivable" environment.
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Live Rock Rubble will do the SAME thing as Bio-Balls and is NOT a suitable replacement for BIO-BALLS in a Reef System! It's ALL gotta go!!

Nitrate (NO3) reduction is directly proportional to percentage of Water Change.
Allen's home-made formula...currentNO3-((%WC*.01)currentNO3)=finalNO3 (thanks Luukosian)
This means if you change 50% of your total water volume (That's EVERYTHING) you'll get a net reduction of (NO3) somewhere around 50%.

Ask me about how to increase your REEF budget without going without FOOD!!

Big Al's 10g
Julie's (BigAl's Gal) 6g NanoCube Gone but not forgotten
BigAl's Slow 90g Tank Chronicle
Allens OFFICE 12g Nano-Reef
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Old 10-09-2008, 01:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Re: GBTA vs. RBTA

This could be, one thing here is the PC and T-5's were very close in actual watts. I know T-5's are a totally different animal here but that was the only change. Water quality was not impacted.

Being that there was not a dramatic change in light do you think that it was just the change that might have stressed the anemone out?

Another strange thing is once I switched over to MH the anemone has not split but seems to have great color and thriving.

Any thoughts?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dentoid View Post
That seems like a lot of splitting in a short amount of time and may be due to the stress of being moved to different lighting or some other factor other than the lighting. Generally, splitting is a survival mechanism and not a form of growth.
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