[prow]

Originally Posted by Triggerjay

Hello, I have a dinoflagellate outbreak, I am using this thread for advise, and to document the changes I make, and what those changes did, and if they make a difference in the outbreak, or have any negative effects on my system in general.

i wish i would have done this. i had to battle dino's, and i won lately i have seen more and more people having issues with dino's. good thinking we need a dino thread.

What started my problem?

who knows for sure

I believe that the die-off of the rock, coupled with the stirring up of "dead zones" in the tank, contributed, and probably sparked my current issue. It has been about 5 or 6 weeks since I changed out the overflow.

yeah i agree but will add a couple things. removing the overflow allowed light to get back behind the rock, enabling photo bac/algae to grow, changes in flow patterns esp behind the rock. removing the rock and the resulting in bacterial die off not only added nutrients but also reduced compition for those nutrients. the chemi pure preventing other bac/algae from competing with the dino's. eleveated CO2(from lack of flow/indoor CO2/lack of air flow, ect..i that was the original cause/fuel for the cyano. the removal of rock, increase exposure to light in some areas, water flow pattern changes, using chemi pure(even though no issue before), adding the Ca+ reactor, others. individually not as bad but all together builds up a pretty clear picture.
you kinda got a new tank now, like you just ordered new rock and got it and put it in a stocked tank. in hindsight placing the rocks in heated circulating water with NSW parameters would have been the way to go. anyway, now i would start by focussing on rebuilding your bacteria biofiltraton. IMO, a litte curing is inorder. so lights out, good water parameteres, even do daily, everother day, water changes with blowing off the rock, heavy skimming, some good carbon. i would also turn off the Ca+reactor during this time, calcification will be slowed while llights off, dont want the CO2 fueling other things. after a week start cycling the light and cut back water changes, see how things go, your bacteria should rebuild quickly if given the chance(reducing compition).

Water Chemistry
My PH in this system has always run slightly low. My sump is located near the furnace in the basement, and could be a contributing factor for the low PH. My PH in this system has always run in the 8.0/8.1 range, depending on the time of day it was checked.

is this before or after you added the Ca+reactor? what was the ph running before and after teh Ca+reactor was added?



Changes I have made to reduce the problem

Other changes I would like to make
I have been researching Dino's, and have read that an elevated PH will sometimes reduce, or eliminate the Dyno.

yeah i hear the same. but you will have a hard time getting it there with the Ca+reactor running. i would avoid playing with the chemistry too much, allow your bacteria to retake the lead in dealing with nutrients.

I am also considering changing my RO filters, and DI resin. It reads 0 TDS, but may be leaching silicates or something else helping to fuel my problem.

or something, RO/DI units are plagued with bacterial, viral and protozoans growing within the tubing and DI resin. if the unit has been going for a couple years i would also check teh RO membrane.

I started making the changes to my temperature.

what changes? lowering it?

The Dino's get worse as the day progresses, and in the morning, are "almost" not visable.

sounds typical for new setups. dino's are not uncommon in new setups. usually after you bacteria colonies gets established, in your case reestablished, they go away on their own. after you get past this, dont use chemi pure again, cynoa is much easier to deal with than dino's.

dont know if this was any help. when i delt with dinos, some snails i bought introduced red turf algae. once that came into the picture it took care of the dinos but the turf algae took many months to get rid of.