So the journey begins…..First, I want to begin by telling you the ‘plan’. I want a very unique design. Having a BA in art makes me want to design a tank that is a work of art. I want it to be a living sculpture. Having my masters in science education makes me want to make it a well designed fish and coral habitat, with the different species coexisting in close proximity. I have most of the corals I want in it now, but I will be doing some changing and adding of the fish and inverts.
Tank: A 180 gallon glass tank with Euro bracing, measuring 24 x 24 x 72.
Lighting: Ok, I am in the poor house now because I went big time and got the PFO Solaris 400 Watt 72” LED computer ran lighting system. I am totally in love with my lights. The computer has year round sun times; in other words, the days are longer and shorter according to the time of year. It has a lunar setting (and I love the lunar lights on the corals at night). It is on the 28 day cycle: no moon to full moon back to no moon. My corals all do well under the light. I have excellent growth, polyp extension, and the most amazing colors. Jack brought a friend (the guy I bought Mom’s 175 from, Mike) to show him my lights. He sat in awe, went home, opened his electric bill, called Jack and told him to order the light for him. They are the lights of the future, and yes, someday the price will come down. Here is a website with a review:
Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine - Product Review: A New Horizon in Lighting: PFO's Solaris LED System Well, enough of the sales pitch…but I do love the lights, thank you PFO for the design.
Flow: Ok, here is where things get tricky….Jack and I are ‘discussing’ this constantly. Now remember, as I stated above, I am in it for the science and the art. After researching what is the best flow for corals, I have decided to try to create a system that generates a gryo flow . I really liked this article (as well as it’s predecessors) and the design comes from this key point:
“In order to maximize the output of water flow equipment, aquarists should design water movement systems so that all the components work together to minimize resistance and move the entire water mass of the aquarium. The best way to combine the energy of moving water to produce maximum water motion for an aquarium is to encourage the formation of a circular course of water movement called a gyre. Like the wheel, a gyre takes advantage of feedback mechanisms which preserve momentum by minimizing resistance. An aquarium gyre somewhat resembles a conveyor belt of water movement and it is characterized by mostly laminar, unidirectional flow. By alternating the rotation of the gyre from one side to the other, it is possible to evenly distribute turbulence on all sides of corals and therefore increase photosynthesis and respiration.
With this in mind come Jack and my discussion. Again, art and science: gyro and sculpture. The difficulty is in the placement and design of the overflow boxes. The tank will be an island design; you will be able to observe it from 3 sides: the itty bitty kitchen eating area, the passage between the living room, and the mini dining room/kitchen; therefore, I want a major overflow on the unobserved side of the tank. I want it to help with the gyro design and move the water in a circular motion, with minimal obstruction and maximum artistry. Jack and I are struggling over the overflow design. I have come up with several versions, but the one I like best is the following diagram (excluding overflow 1). If I have overflow 1, it goes to the top of the tank and artistically is awkward from a side perspective. However, Jack seems to feel that overflow 2 is not enough. (see the pic below)
If you notice the design of overflow 2 creates an indent in the center. I will design a rock wall (hand sculptured using the garf formula for rocks, a clay pre-sculpture, and a fiberglass mold). The rocks will curve in order not to limit the flow of water, creating a circular motion.
I have purchased the Motions design 4 way, using the “1 & 3, 4 & 2” design (thanks Steve).
Oceans Motions I will have it switch after 15 minutes in order to give the gyro maximum effect. In other words the water will circulate for 15 minutes in one direction, and then go in the other direction for 15 minutes. I have not completely decided where the location of the returns will be located yet, but I have decided that they will come from the top as well as the bottom, thus helping to eliminate ‘dead spots’ of flow.
P.S. Jack will constantly make me rethink the overflow design, again, and again , and again…(but, I’m done it is number 2 only…hee…hee..hee)
Pump: I have a purchased a Sequence Dart 3,600. We have this on Mom’s 175 and I really like the energy efficiency, the flow, and how quiet it is. I like the pump (thanks Steve).
Skimmer: I have the Aqua C EV180. I have the Aqua C 120 on my 125 and it works well.
Sump: We are not absolutely sure what we are doing with that yet. We want at least 60 gallons and are debating what we will do. TBD.
Stand: Now this gets fun!! As we were driving back from LA last week, I had an epiphany: we take out the dinning table (we never eat there), the cabinets on the back side of the tank, put in an identical stand facing opposite (but 18 inches – Jacks idea), a granite counter top, and bar stools to view the tank from the kitchen side. We both liked the idea and I am excited about the finished design.
And so the journey begins………………………………………..