Yarr's 180 Reef.

Yarr

Active Member
I figured i would start a new thread as my old one well. is a different tank all together :)

The tank is a 6 x 2 x 2 all glass tank with 2 corner overflows. I have made a sump for it out of my old 4 foot tank and am in the process of making the stand, which i am desperately trying to find motivation to get into at the moment. It is hard because of a issue with my other tank killing all the fish in it.... so yeh.. stuggling to stay the course :)

The stand itself will be custom made by myself using dressed pine. THe height i am aiming for will be quite high. so basically one can stand there and view it as opposed to making your visitors bend over to see whats inside. I think i have found soem tricky ways of making the stand which i will detail in pictures as i progress through the project.

Equipment wise i am at an ends atm. Becuase equipment is INSANELY expensive in Australia I have to be quite careful about what money i invest where and to get the right thing to do the job in the first place. I had some very bad advice when i first got into the hobby which i am exponentially wiser from now. I will be making my own maifold with nozzles located around the top of the tank.

I have decided against a spraybar setup mainly due to the fact that if i dont get the flwo right it will create too much back pressur eon the pump impellar and shorten its life, that of the bearing and create excess noise, heat and load on the motor.

The return pump is a RK2 Systems pump. It is meant to be quite quiet and especially made for aquarium applications as opposed to modified spa ( er.. decussi ??? ) pumps. It is a External 1/8 hp 10,800 L/h @ 2m. With this amount of flow The only other pump i might have inside the display itself would be a Tuzne 6080 8,500 L/h Stream, mainly to keep the water circulating in any deadspots i may find.

Skimming will be taken care of by a Aqua Medic Turboflotor shorty 5000. From memory it is rated up to 1200 L but i have seen it on systems up to 1500 L and it works without fault. I am still undecided at what height in the sump i will place this at the moment. There is no guidlines in the manual or any online resources i can find so far so i will experiement a bit when it gets in there. It will be fed froma bypass line from one of the overflows to the sump. The Skimme has its over Ocean Rrunner 3500 pump with needle wheel impeller to get things moving.

Sump... The sump is an old all glass 4 foot tank i hae runnign for a while. i added 4 baffles and built in a small fuge. I have the skimmer sitting in there at the momeny on a star board platform i have for it but i am taking that out and sitting it on the bottom as stated in the previous paragraph. If i need to bring the hiether up i will re make a platform using glass. as i have found the silicone bonds to it better than it does board - glass. I made a slight error when i made it in the fact tha ti got the hole in the side for the return pump drilled too low. so i will ahv eto get another sheet of glass cut and drilled at the correct height. barring that i coudl build up the height of the sump in the stand to match. I will see how that goes. The fuge will be fed from a pump in the sump and will house pretty much just macro.. if i cna ever find any decent non noxious stuff in this country. I plan on using a small light. like the one i have over my reptile enclosure. I think at this stage i will keep the light on constantly to get the macro feeding and growing liek crazy. i will see how that goes though.

Chiller. I have not decided on a chiller yet as i am still trying to work out what i will require. my 100 gal sits on 28 Deg C at the moment with 3 x 4 foot fluros. So as soon as i add the proper lighting for this tank i will definately run into heat problem. i just dont know how much heat and how it will affect a larger water volume with more surface area and more flow. Ambient temperature here is usually 32 Deg C almost all year around with high humidity in rainy season getting up to 94 %. To make matters worse and mor euncertain i will be posted to another locality at some stage and will most likely be a lot cooler in climate ( shudder ), So i am after a unit that heats aswell a cools. with high day time temps and low night time temps i dont want a massive swing in temps even though i am aware this does infact occur naturally.

Lighting. I plan on using 3 x 250 W MH combo with actinic PC or fluro. The MIN cost of these here would be over $2,000 for the VERY base models. Not much more info than that i guess... um. yeh.. lights.. bright.. hot.. good

Additional equipment will be maybe a UV sterilizer but i knwo they are inbuilt into some chillers so i will look for it here.. Calcium reactor which i will have to add later.

The tank itself with be an all round reef with a mixutre of different corals and fish. I will be running a 3 inch sandbed and will hopefulyl have a MUCH easier time than i did with my 100 Gal.

Pictures to follow.......... soon ( tm )
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
RS STAFF
Sounds like a great plan Ian! :thumbup: The 3 MH will leave some lower lit areas that will be perfect for the lesser light demanding corals.
 

Yarr

Active Member
ok.. stand is mostly built.. it is all together and tank on it and whatnot. i am water testing it at the momen and slowly adding more water. The only thing i need is to add the doors and whatnot and stain the outside. The canopy will come later when i get home from overseas.

I had cookeda bunch of rock i had layign around and palsed that in the tank. wi ll go and collect soem sand in the next few days and place that in before i add anymore stuff.

Everything form the 100 Gal will be palced in when ti is all good to go. SOme plumbing and making some standpipes is all that is in my way.

I was hoping that ther woudl be enoguh room left in the stand to house the calcium reacto ri wanted but i dont think i will get that much room. sso i will mount that externally probably outside the stand with my chiller in a purpose build cabinet.

I have some pics at carious stages of construction of the stand and will post them soon ( tm).
 

Yarr

Active Member
ok. sand is in.. i tried to get as much fgood san dias i coudl.. but our waters here are a bit muddy.. so will see how it goes. may layer the top with some playsand or a bit of white sutff.. will still be all godo though as the mud is uber full of life :)

Sorted most of the plumbing and am getitng all that together so i can get the skimmer going hard on the water so i can start adding my stuff from the 100 Gal.
 

Yarr

Active Member
I have a camera.. too laszy to upload pics :p when it is all don i will upload them.. not mud persay.. more sand than mud but has some mud in it.
 

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
Anxiously waiting for some pics...lol
Wow 2k for ligting :bugout: If you were using a canopy you can use some retro kits instead, probably be much cheaper. Hey at least you can save some money and catch your own livestock:invisible
 

Yarr

Active Member
yer.. lighting undecided atm. that will have to await pretty much til i get home from afghanistan.
 

Yarr

Active Member
rightio.. system is up and runnig.. not perfectly yet.. have found alot of things i need to iron out.

I am getting a lot of microbubbles in the sump... i had made slotted downpipes out of 40mm pipe and 50 mm caps.. for some reason my father in law took the caps off so now it is just runnign into the pipe... doesnt kae hardly any noise at all.. however.. getting some bubbles in there which i think is contributing to...

flow issues.. if u turn the bypass from the pump off.. meaning that full pump flow goes to return.. i find that the water level in the sump shoots right up.. so i have to open the bypass to level it off. shich doesnt leave me a low ot flow in display.
 

Yarr

Active Member
in addition.. an oversight when i got the tank made.. the returns into the display sit below the water line.. to the point where even if i place a siphon hole in the top of the manifold by the time the water gets to that level the sump will well and truly be flooded... hm.. i could place a 40 or 2 to raise the hieghter of the manifold.. and drill a siphon hole in them.. any thoughts ?
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
RS STAFF
Ian, you could insert loc-line returns; bend them so the highest part is just at the water's surface. Then all you have to do is drill a few holes in the side (at the highest part) of the tubing... that will kill the back-siphon when the pump turns off. Make sense?

Or...

Plumb in a sea swirl for the return. Then drill an anti-siphon hole in it...
 

Yarr

Active Member
well i solved the probel by placing a few 45 Degs in place to increase the height of the return outlets.

I have full flow of the pump.. so that is 10,400 l/h. That is 14 time sturnover so far. i will place a Tuzne 6080 8500 L/h power head in therre aswell. which will give me about 22 times turnover.. nice indeed.. shoudl be a lot happier then. Microbubbles.. bu thta twill settle by itself. well soem of it anyways.. when the pipes and stuff bed in. That and filter socks over the drains. and downpipes rethink will alter that also.

I need to make the downpipes, rethink em a bit. as i have a tap on one of them to bypass water into skimmer one os doing mroe work han the others.. .. unless i T both pipes into eachother and then take skimmer line off that.. or i run skimmer form its own power head which was the origional plan anyways.
 
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