Sump build pictures

[rostervandross]

Hey everybody, I am building a sump and thought youd like to follow on or chime in. It is not getting very much attention in DIY section.

Here's my original draw up:

I have decided on a skimmer compartment height of 10.5" and got my first few baffles cut but also cut my hand on the glass where I removed the tank rim and had to have it stitched... So I am back to the drawing board for now and thought i'd solicit some ideas.

 

[rostervandross]

Here are some sumps I found that i'd like to borrow from. The baffle pieces with slits that force the water through the refug evenly instead of just down at the bottom or over the top, and some that hold a sponge to force the water through. Just not sure where to put them in my particular sump design.

 

[rostervandross]

What do yall think about this?

I have the first set of baffles to hold ceramic balls or media bags and perhaps mechanical filtration, then the third baffle piece with slits to encourage even, slower flow through the refugium. Then the second set of baffles could hold a sponge or other bags of media if the sponge would possibly block the creatures growing in the refugium from being pumped into the tank.

That is basically my only concern now: where i should plan on placing the mechanical filtration between baffle set 1 or 2. Or just run the overflow pipe through a filter sock?


Forgot to mention: I have an overflow box with two 1" bulkheads/drains. Should I run two lines or Y them into one ?

 

[DaveK]

Your design would work, but it can be a lot better.

First I would add some form of mechanical filtration in the first chamber. Typically this is one or two filter socks. You want to get the gross particulate matter out before it gets into your skimmer and other areas. You should still be able to get a skimmer into this area, if the sump is wide enough.

Except for a course sponge, that you can easily remove for cleaning, don't place anything between the baffles. The sponge used here is to help prevent micro bubbles from getting into the next area.

Get the refugium out of the middle of the sump. You only want a very modest flow through a refugium. Cutting slits or holes in a baffle does not lesson total flow. Put the return area here and pit the refugium in the last chamber. Feed it using a T and valves from the main return pump.

Note that there are no places for chemical media here. It's best to use these in reactors where you can control the flow through them. Feed the reactors off the main return pump or from another small pump located in the return area.

Notes on baffles. You place baffles for two reasons. One is to keep the water in one section at a constant level. The other is to use a pair of them to form a bubble trap to keep microbubbles in one area from getting into another area. Typically this is from the skimmer section to another section, You usually don't need a bubble trap in other locations, but it's not going to hurt anything. Many people use too many baffles. It's not hurting anything, but it's more stuff you need to clean.

 

[rostervandross]

Okay, plan adjusted; heres a diagram to reference:

I guess I was wanting to incorporate more biological filtration.. where live rock in the refugium got more water over it or all the water was forced over ceramic media somewhere.

Plumbing:

Starting from 2 bulkheads in overflow: should I run two lines down?

I need some advice on where to put valves. The diagram is basically all i have accounted for.

And the line from the return pump. It is ok to have a split like that to run into the refugium? Do you think it should split into 1" as well or maybe 3/4" into the refugium off the return line?

 

[StevesLEDs]

Over the years, I have found that filter socks tend to catch everything, and that stuff starts to "rot" in a matter of a couple days. Also, a clogged filter sock can cause other problems to, such as if it gets clogged, your pump will run dry, etc.

For the past 18 years, I've been using a coarse sponge (cleaned out weekly) and relying on a skimmer to take out the fine particulates. Seems to work well.

Jeff

 

[rostervandross]

Thanks Jeff, where is your sponge placed?

 

[DaveK]

Over the years, I have found that filter socks tend to catch everything, and that stuff starts to "rot" in a matter of a couple days. Also, a clogged filter sock can cause other problems to, such as if it gets clogged, your pump will run dry, etc.

For the past 18 years, I've been using a coarse sponge (cleaned out weekly) and relying on a skimmer to take out the fine particulates. Seems to work well.

Jeff

I have to disagree here. A clogged filter sock will simply overflow into the sump. The big advantage of a filter sock is that you can change it rapidly. I usually get about a week out of one, and just swap it out with another. Then just run them through the washing machine to clean them.

Properly designed, your pump will never run dry.

 

[rostervandross]

Right so sponge vs sock sponge is kind of a moot point. What about plumbing?

Pieces 1-3 are in place and sealed, now I just have a question about the fourth and fifth piece:

I am thinking about drilling a dozen or so holes in piece 4 to let water flow through instead of over.

What about piece 5 that separates refugium? Would it benefit from several holes or just flow over?

I think I will use at least one sock to filter incoming water before it gets skimmed. Maybe a coarse sponge or filter pad after. Likely a few porous rocks between 3 & 4 for some extra bio filtration

And please feedback on plumbing. Planning on two lines from overflow.. do they need valves for any reason?

In the return line, perhaps a ball valve before (or after?) the T that feeds into refugium? And then a ball valve where the red circle is to control flow into refugium?


Coming together! Excited to get it tested and running... I need to find some macroalgae

Thanks to everyone who gave advice

 

[DaveK]

You don't need baffles 3 or 4. They will be something else you need to clean and be more trouble than they are worth. Keep it simple.

You generally do not want to put holes in baffles. Again this is something that is really hard to clean in a sump. If you just have to have them, make sure that section is removable so you can clean all those holes,

 

[rostervandross]

Please look over the plumbing

Intake:
Planning on a valve on each bulkhead line into sump to stop flow in

Return:
The T to feed refugium- 1" T or 1" to 3/4"? Valve after T to control flow into refug.

Then any valves in main return line to keep water in the line or no valve needed? What should I plumb into the return line to be able to add a reactor?

Graci


Oh yes and where do you get your macroalgae from?

 

[rostervandross]

Would appreciate a look over of my plumbing. I think it is adequate but basic in the effort to not restrict flow.

I only wonder about how to plumb in an option for a media reactor off the return line.

The two ball valves from the overflow are kind of overkill.. huge bulky sched. 40 valves for essentially drains.. but I need something to stop the flow without breaking the siphon.

No check valve on return line.. thinking it would just restrict flow and I can just unplug the pump to stop it. Return piece has a hole to break siphon.


Thanks for fielding my sump I hope someone else benefits from my diagrams

 

[Stacef]

I am benefiting from your diagrams for sure. With our last tank we made our fuge in the middle like you originally had. After reviewing your thread, we are looking at having the fuge on the right like you have diagramed. THANK YOU!

 

[DaveK]

You do not need valves on the overflows unless you are constructing an overflow such as the Bean Animal overflow. In fact, you are better off with out them, since they create a narrow point, which is ideal for trapping stuff and clogging.

As for breaking the siphon, this doesn't occur with a correctly designed siphon,

Adding reactors depends upon the reactor in question, and what your trying to do. Some are plumbed inline with the return, others may be plumbed similar to the refugium feed.

 

[rostervandross]

Ah all right I see what you mean with the overflow lines.. the flow should just pause.

I will just have to look up some pictures of reactor plumbing.. I do not have one but I would like to make a T in the line or whatever I need for one in the future so I don't have to redo the whole return line