Starting over, sort of

Eck36

Active Member
Looking for suggestions on the proper way to do this. I want to clear out my 29g cube. I'm thinking about taking the fish (2 clowns, 6 line wrasse and pygmy angel) and relocating them to the QT while I get the rocks cleaned off. I have a green hair algae issue and I need to redo the sand. This was my first SW tank and I think I'm in the danger zone as far as sand depth. If I take the sand out, should I use "live" sand? I am going to keep the live rock in the tank and go with a shallow sand bed. Any suggestions on how to do this without starting over completely would be greatly appreciated. I'm also going to remove the lid and go with a small LED over the tank.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
Before you do something as radical as tearing the tank down and starting over, let us carefully go over what you have now, and what should be done to prevent the problem from reoccurring. If this isn't done, about all you'll end up with is a tank that looks clean for awhile, but ends up just like what you have now. Here are some basic questions I have -

What are your actual water parameters, especially nitrate and phosphate?

What is you existing lighting and filtration system, including skimmer and reactors?

Do you use or have you ever used additives or medications in the tank?

What is the source of your water and your water change schedule?

What fish, corals and inverts are in the tank?

How often and what do you feed?

Do you have a clean up crew, and what are they?

How deep is the existing sand bed?

From the picture your tank doesn't seem that bad. It seems to have some algae issues, but this should be able to be corrected, and while it can take time, it's far less disruptive that a tear down.
 

Eck36

Active Member
Nitrates are high (over 20, always have been). Phosphate, not sure (my bad)

No skimmer, lighting is stock bio cube CF, 36 watt actinic and 10,000K 36 watt white.
I do not like these in the enclosed tank. The fans don't do a very good job of keeping the heat away. In the summer I usually have to leave the lid open to keep the tank cool.
I took the bio balls out of the second chamber and added LR rubble and calupera.

No additives or meds

Water is RO/DI made onsite water changes 2-3 weeks

feed every other day usually

2 clowns, 6 line wrasse and a pygmy angel
cleaner shrimp(1), red legged hermit crab, turbo snails, mexican turbos, nassarius snails random snails
peppermint shrimp, pagoda cup coral, duncan, candy cane, plating montipora. All corals are growing out of control.

Sand bed is roughly 2 1/2". I know now that is not a good place to be.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
I see several issues that should be addressed.

The nitrates are way too high. To get them down is going to require a lot of partial water changes. Typically you want to change 1/3 to 1/2 the water at a time, and do about 3 or 4 of them about a week apart to get the nitrates and phosphates down. A 50% water change means a 50% reduction in nitrates and phosphates. Be sure to carefully match SG and temp when doing these big water changes.

Live rock that get coated in algae like that may have absorbed a certain amount of nitrate and phosphate. If you make the water change and the level is down, but then goes way back up in a few days, you make have this issue.

Get rid of the rubble rock in the filtration system. This tends to become a massive nitrate factory and oxygen consumer. If you want to rinse off the rubble rock in SW to get it clean, and them put it in the main display tank ok. It's ok there because you can get to that to clean it. You can keep the calupera in there as long as it's not becoming a mechanical filter.

I highly recommend a skimmer. It's one of the few devices that can remove waste products from the water before the biological filtration needs to break it down. Expect to spend some money on this, and avoid the junk low end skimmers. I used an AquaC Remora on my 30 gal reef, but there are a lot of other good products out there today.

Consider using GFO in the filtration system. The most effective way to do this is in a reactor, but it can be placed in the regular filtration system. You can buy Phosban, but it's much less expensive to get it in bulk from an online source.

When doing the water changes, test your new water. It's possible that you have something wrong with your RO/DI unit. New water should read 0 or close to it.

Many people tend to over feed the tank, but I don't think you have this problem. Two things to consider. Dry foods tend to contain a lot of nitrates and phosphates. Frozen foods should be thawed and rinsed off in a net first. Don't just drop in a cube.

Your mix of snails is about right. You might want to add more to take care of the algae. You can easily as high as 1 to 2 per gal of water, depending on their size. You can ramp this up too. Add 10 or so, and see how much they help. If needed add another 10.

You have a wrasse in your tank, so you don't want to reduce the sandbed. They need a place to burro. Also, in looking at your tank picture, you don't seem to have a lot of algae growing on it, so I don't think this is a big factor. You may want to vacuum the sandbed. Only go down about 3/4" or so to get out the worst dirt. You can often just do the open areas. This is a good thing to do while your making those large water change mentioned above.

How long has it been since you changed your light bulbs? If it's been more that 18 months, replace them. Of course, you could also upgrade the lighting, but at this point I think your best goal is to get the algae issues fixed first. It is possible to cut back on the number of hours your lighting the tank, but I'd not go below 8. Since you corals are doing well, go carefully here. Make any lighting change slowly.
 

Eck36

Active Member
Dave, I appreciate your response, but my battery is dying on my laptop so I can only answer this. The light bulbs were 6 months old when I got a replacement cover (faulty fans) with new bulbs. I don't think the bulbs are the issue, but regarding lighting, I want to ditch the hood because of heat, I have LEDs on my 93g cube and things are going great. I'll be back after a battery charge and a cocktail or 2 (my batteries are dead too).
 

Eck36

Active Member
Follow up question- why get rid of the LR in the fuge? I have it in my fuge for the 93G. I thought the point of LR was for surface area for bacteria. To clarify, by rubble I meant LR chunks that were under 2" and didn't look right in the DT, it isn't rock crumbs.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
You want to get rid of the live rock rubble, even the chunks under 2", in the refugium because it is not easily cleanable. As such it becomes a mechanical filter, and then a massive dirt trap and nitrate factory.

It's not a total loss. Small pieces of live rock make much better bases for frags, compared to the usual frag plugs.

Because of all the bacteria and dirt in there, it also becomes a big oxygen consumer.

If you happen to be measuring ORP via a controller, you usually see a big jump in ORP when you remove submerged live rock or bio-balls.

Yes, I know quite a few people do use it in a refugium, but I consider this to be a mistake. In your specific case, I think this is part of your problem. Note that I say part of the problem. Algae control usually means correcting multiple issues.
 

mgreenough

New Member
Instead of removing and scrubbing the rocks in the display you can buy/rent a sea hare to start making light work on the algae. Then whilst it is doing that address the other factors as above.
 

Squatch XXL

Well-Known Member
I have recently gotten an urchin to help out my (disappearing) CUC. I was quite impressed with how the thing just mows everything down. Id look into types before purchase. Some I hear eat coraline algae.
 

Eck36

Active Member
I did have a couple chitons I bought from reef cleaners. They did great for about a week, now I don't know where they are.
 

mgreenough

New Member
Urchins eating coraline is a good thing in my book, as the coraline covers the rock making it non porous after a while. So the urchins help out keeping the rocks porous.
 
Top