So you want a tang?

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
Just one thing I would like to add, is that stress (or weakened condition) is not a prerequisite to infection with Cryptocaryon irritans. Healthy fish that are not unduly stressed are susceptible to infection upon exposure to this pathogen. That's why it's so important to remember what craig said:D
Originally posted by Craig Manoukian

In addition, we probably don't do a very good job of shopping for our fish. It is important to watch the fish at the LFS and see if it is swimming comfortably and eating. Are there signs of nipped fins, labored breathing, or other indicators of stress? Did the fish just arrive to the LFS from Fiji or has it had a few days to acclimate from being yanked out of the ocean? Did it take two hours for the LFS employee to completely exhaust your fish befor netting it? I tell the folks at my LFS that if it takes more than 60 seconds or two passes to catch the fish, I don't want it.

If you have followed the ideas presented above, bring home healthy fish, and properly acclimate them you can avoid the majority of ich challenges in my opinion.


 
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Scooterman

Active Member
Ahh true so true.
If I was to do it again, I'd probably not have any Tangs in my 100g tank. I love them, they are beautiful species all of them. Maybe in a 700g I'd have a few but my reasoning is either reef it, or fish it. In the past I've read most reefs kept smaller fish, nibblers and less aggressive and less pooping fish. Most reefers have tanks 100g and under, I haven't seen any of these actually with enough room to accommodate a fish of these adult sizes. They actually grow pretty fast as I've noticed. I have a Sailfin & Hippo, both are growing fast, & eventually in my 5ft tank, they will out grow it fast as being over crowded something will eventually happen. The sailfin isn't scared to spread his wings and take control. The Hippo is the protector of the smaller fish inside, he will make the aggressor(sixline) back away from the fire fish. I will eventually reevaluate the fish proportions and remove the two tangs, maybe opt for a smaller species at a later date. If I was not keeping corals this would all be different, I'd probably have less rocks, no corals & as much swim room as I could make. One day I would like to build a larger system, thinking display 300g of the sorts, & a 300g sump, then maybe I'll rethink the tang idea. So in short I think with experience, I would not keep tangs in general in tanks smaller than 200/300g or larger.
 

Craig Manoukian

Well-Known Member
Scott,

I would agree in general, but would also suggest you could mix a couple of 7" - 9" tangs in a tank range of 75 to 100 gallons from the three genus Zebrasoma, Acanthurus, Ctenochaetus. One Cteoncheatus and one from either Acanthurus, or Zebrasoma in that size range should be fine together.

This assumes you account for the adult size of the fish in your overal stocking plan.

:) :D :cool: ;) :p :smirk:
 
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Scooterman

Active Member
Yep, 7" tp 9" adult size would be the limits, I haven't found so many in that range and not under $80. only a few within reasonable prices. I may be wrong though, I'll have to look a little farther.
 

Craig Manoukian

Well-Known Member
Scott,

These fish meet those qualifications:

Acanthurus
Convict (Acanthurus triostegus), 10"
Whitecheek Tang (Acanthurus nigricans), 8"
Blue Caribbean Tang (Acanthurus coeruleus), 9"
Lavender Tang (Acanthurus nigrofuscus), 8"

Ctenochaetus
Yellow Eyed Kole (Ctenochaetus strigosus), 7"
Bristletooth Tomini Tang (Ctenochaetus tominiensis), 6"

Zebrasoma
Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum), 10"

The Convict and Purple tangs, although listed at 10" would work due to their excellent dispositions, IMO.


HTH
:) :D :cool: ;) :p :smirk:
 

Craig Manoukian

Well-Known Member
Prices from www.liveaquaria.com and www.marinedepotlive.com

Acanthurus
Convict (Acanthurus triostegus), 10" - $25
Whitecheek Tang (Acanthurus nigricans), 8" - $39
Blue Caribbean Tang (Acanthurus coeruleus), 9" - $23
Lavender Tang (Acanthurus nigrofuscus), 8" - $30

Ctenochaetus
Yellow Eyed Kole (Ctenochaetus strigosus), 7" - $26
Bristletooth Tomini Tang (Ctenochaetus tominiensis), 6" - $79

Zebrasoma
Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum), 10" - $69



:) :D :cool: ;) :p :smirk:
 

Craig Manoukian

Well-Known Member
Yes that is true. Both of my tangs regularly pick up sand to aide them in digesting the algea that makes up the majority of their diet. My Sailfin (omivore) to a lesser extent than my Kole (algeavore) tang. Much like birds using gravel to aide in the digestion of seeds.
 
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corvettephreek

Active Member
wow!!! that was an excellent and well informative post, kudos 2 u!!!! now I wonder if someone will post about triggers?.........
 

corvettephreek

Active Member
now is it the yellow eyed kole or the yellow hawaiian tang that is so popular in the LFS???? or did I miss something entirely? great info again btw
 

forestal

Active Member
great thread and info...thanks Craig...I am eying a Kole tang for the future...they are gorgeous
 

Cor5654

New Member
I have a 40 gal. My Yellow Hawaiian Tang and it killed all of my three other fish including my 2 clowns. What do I do with it now?
 

Craig Manoukian

Well-Known Member
Very tough situation Cor5654, bummer on your losses. I would take the tang back to the LFS and find smaller fish better siuted to your tank, as no tang is suited for a 40 gallon as it is much too small.
 

Charlie97L

Well-Known Member
UV sterilizers are open to debate... some feel that it's too much of a crutch, and makes the tank too "clean room"-ish, so if anything does get past the UV, it can cause big problems. that said, with tangs, i think they are pretty darn susceptible anyway, so it's really up to you. i know soaking in garlic helps with immune systems, and a cleaner shrimp can help with ich outbreaks, as well, or preventing them at least.
 

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
UV sterilizers will help CONTROL the parasite but will not completely eliminate it, same with cleaner shrimp and fish.

some feel that it's too much of a crutch, and makes the tank too "clean room"-ish, so if anything does get past the UV

If that's a concern you can always shut it off, if your fish are well.
 
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