Shaun's 2000 Litre (530 USG) Living Reef & Red Sea Max S 650 LED Design & Build

[SPR]

So today 15th of December is my birthday, so happy birthday to me! Lol

Its wet, it’s full and it’s ready.......

And it’s virtually silent. The only way I know the Abyzz A200 pump is on, is because the water level stays the same, and I can just hear the noise of the Radion fans. The skimmer isn’t on yet, but everything else is silent.

The skimmer will stay off until we start to get some Nitrate/nutrient readings in the water, although phosphate will be locked down from the very start

All systems are fully operational, tested and working and in place so I’m just going to get the salinity stable and then the other water parameters over the next few days ready for the first fish additions. The calcium reactor will be put online in the next few weeks as and when needed.

I've also put 500ml of rhowaphos in to remove any silicate etc from the water as I’m going to try and avoid any diatoms or the like

I had to make a few modifications to the return pipe as it was originally a 90’ elbow installed by the builders into the display. When the Abyzz was turned on it was making the water ripple to much that you could hear water noise. So I removed this 90‘ and added a 45’ elbow so the return water is pointing more downwards. I originally tested a vertical pipe but that just messed the sand up which is why it’s a little cloudy in the pictures.

The 45’ also means I can run the Abyzz a200 at higher power settings if and when required. It’s currently at 81% and it feeding a UVC and Deltec FR512 Rhowaphos reactor and is currently around 3 x tank volume as far as return sump flow.

The display has massive circulation if needed and in particular the sand can handle 2 x MP60’s and the MP40 at 100% power if required without issue.

So here you go.....

 

[Pancho75]

So so sweet....

The tank and equipment looks nice Shaun and happy birthday !

 

[SPR]

So so sweet....

The tank and equipment looks nice Shaun and happy birthday !

Thank you Pancho, and today I’m just ‘older’! Lol

 

[Nobbygas]

Belated Happy Birthday! I did see a glow on the horizon last night. Was that the candles on your Birthday cake?

 

[Nobbygas]

Is it me or do I see a lot of surface movement in the Sump?

 

[SPR]

Belated Happy Birthday! I did see a glow on the horizon last night. Was that the candles on your Birthday cake?

Ha Ha hahahahhhh....! lol

 

[SPR]

Is it me or do I see a lot of surface movement in the Sump?

There is a lot of movement/flow through the sump and let me tell you the design is light years ahead of Red Sea, not even comparable. But to be fair, this is a bespoke system, not an all in one.

There are bubble traps in each section and all sorts of design elements so the water just flows smoothly through.

Since the photo above, Ive raised the Tunze ATO a little. I was sat relaxing yesterday afternoon when suddenly millions of bubbles started to come out of the return pipe. I looked at the return section and although there was plenty of water, there was to much agitation over the final weir as the water level dropped slightly with evaporation, which was disturbing the flow to the Abyzz.

So I just raised the Tunze sensor about 1 inch higher and problem solved.

 

[Nobbygas]

Well, it's a steep learning curve for you. I've no doubt you'll be fiddling this and that over the next few weeks. Is the water clearing?

 

[SPR]

Well, it's a steep learning curve for you. I've no doubt you'll be fiddling this and that over the next few weeks. Is the water clearing?

Yes it’s clearing nicely.

It’s up to temperature and I’m just dropping salt in to bring the salinity up. It’s at around 31 today so I’ll leave it to mix overnight and then adjust again tomorrow and once there I’ll bring all the foundation elements into line.

The Hanna salinity checker will take the place of the Red Sea refractometer as the standard and I’ll match everything to that as it’s just so much easier.

 

[SPR]

Here’s an up date to the full equipment list including a few amendments

The main changes from the original list are that Ive changed the clarisea SK5000 for the new UK built X Filter 1.7 which is an absolute delight and can handle massive flow, up to around 10000lph. The clarisea I think would have caused flow and maintenance issues in my tank, and having had both, this is much better

https://www.reefolution.co.uk/product-page/innovitech-x-filter-1-7-digital-control-roll-filter[/URL]

The original Neptune Apex ATK is installed on the S650 and finally working after having a failed pump, failed FMM module, and even the new pump was jammed when it arrived and I had to take it to pieces so there is no way this is going in the new system. Neptune support was excellent but......

Ive always used the Tunze Osmolator and when I discovered the additional outlet socket that will power any pump, that was it, decision made.

So here you go:

Abyzz a200 return pump
Secondary return and backup pump to be decided but probably another Abyzz a200
Ecotech Radion XR30w G4 Pro LED x 4
Ecotech Radion RMS Tank mounts x 4
Ecotech Vortech MP60wQD x 2
Ecotech Vortech MP40wQD x 1 (for the centre of the tank)
Ecotech battery backups x 3
Real Reef Rock Premium x 200kg
NYOS Quantum 300 protein skimmer
Innovitech X Filter 1.7 (replaced the clarisea SK5000) with 25micron 65 metre fleece
Deltec FR512 rhowaphos reactor
DD 80w UVC
Neptune Apex 2016 Fusion (in addition to the one on the S650)
Neptune Apex DOS (for auto water changes/dosing) x 2
Neptune Apex Vortech WXM Module (to control/monitor Radions and Vortechs)
Neptune Apex Magnetic Probe holder
Neptune Apex Auto Feeder
Neptune Apex FMM Module x 2
Neptune Apex 2’ flow sensor (to monitor flow from return pump)
Neptune Apex 1’ flow sensor x 2 (UVC and Chiller)
Neptune Apex optical sensors x 2 (RODI/saltwater containers) with magnetic mounts
Neptune Apex Advanced leak detection system with 2 probes
Neptune Apex Energy Bar x 2 (1 is still o/s)
Tunze Osmolator ATO with modified pump below
Tunze Osmolator outlet socket powering Eheim CompactON2100 for ATO
Red Sea Activated Carbon to be used in media bags
Purigen 500g to be used in media bags
Eheim 400 e heaters s 2
Teco TK2000e heater/chiller
Deltec Twin Tech 1500 Calcium Reactor
Rowalith W (chunky version) 6kg reactor media x 4
2 x 425 litre water containers for RODI and automatic water changes
Osmotics fully automated RODI production system including booster pump
ATM Colony x 5 946ml (no I’m not using dead shrimps!! Lol)
Red Sea Reef Pink Live Sand x 70kg
Red Sea Standard salt x 6 22kg buckets
8 litres Seachem Matrix in one large media bag to be installed when needed
32mm PVC pipe throughout other than 2 x 40mm downpipes

 

[SPR]

I’ve installed the amended extension brackets onto the X Filer 1.7 which moves it around 1.5 inches away from the edge of the sump glass. This was making me very uncomfortable, and although at the current flow rates I think it would have been fine, for my own sanity I’ve done this and now I can relax.

Because of the expert plumbing design (he says! lol), it only took a few minutes and just meant loosening 2 union connectors on the down pipes and moving the angle slightly

The first picture shows how it’s was originally, and you can see it’s touching the sides of the glass sump, so any slight rise in water level and over it would go.

The subsequent picture show how it is now with the gap, which is much better.

The X Filter is extremely well designed and built, takes into account what’s really needed in aquariums, and I believe that’s as a result of all the beta testing done. And it’s just so easy to use.

 

[Nobbygas]

The last two pictures....you've put a Shrimp in there haven't you !

 

[Nobbygas]

Early days I know, but it's the Calcium Reactor I want to hear about.

 

[SPR]

The last two pictures....you've put a Shrimp in there haven't you !

Lol! No shrimpys!

But you can see what a 32 micron (that roll is 32 but the others will be 25) filter roll pulls out and this is a clean new tank other than the new rocks and sand.

The X Filter is brilliant it really is. And when I get chance to figure how to put one in the S650 it will get one

 

[Nobbygas]

I'd imagine it's pulling out a lot of the fine stuff from the sand that gets circulated when new. That would certainly help to keep the Sump clean. I'm not sure where one would fit in the S-650. Maybe in the Skimmer compartment with the Skimmer moving to the Main Compartment?

 

[SPR]

Early days I know, but it's the Calcium Reactor I want to hear about.

The calcium reactor is currently sat behind the tank and just needs settings up which seems fairly straightforward to be honest

Put in the Rowalith, hook up the CO2 and away you go.

Today the tank will be at 35ppm salinity, and then I’m just going to test the other levels and get them all balanced, so probably tomorrow once everything’s had a good mix.

I’ll set the calcium reactor up in the next few weeks as I’m off from next week over Christmas. Infact I’m off today as well so I can play with my new toy. I’ve was supposed to be golfing as it’s Tuesday (golf day) but it cold and I’m awaiting some parcels including the booster for the RODI system and the bracket for the X Filter which arrived earlier

 

[SPR]

I'd imagine it's pulling out a lot of the fine stuff from the sand that gets circulated when new. That would certainly help to keep the Sump clean. I'm not sure where one would fit in the S-650. Maybe in the Skimmer compartment with the Skimmer moving to the Main Compartment?

I’d have to have a good think, because you want easy access to it and the X Filter 1.0 a little smaller.

Ideally it wants to be before the skimmer, so probably the only way is as you suggest were the skimmers currently are.

All it would mean is cutting the main down pipe, probably installing a gate valve while doing it (to make that stupid thing at the back redundant) attaching a 90;’ elbow and a few more bits down into the back of the X Filter.

I don’t think I’d bother changing the emergency overflow pipe as it’s hardly used other than an emergency.

One of the benefits of the X Filter is the pipework which is much easier because they just drop into the back. the clarisea needs hard plumbing direct to it.

 

[Nobbygas]

See, there you go again...cutting pipes, installing gates...you're making my hair go grey !

 

[SPR]

See, there you go again...cutting pipes, installing gates...you're making my hair go grey !

It’s actually very simple.

Get yourself some pipes and different fittings, and some solvent welding glue and have a play over Christmas. But don’t wear anything plastic!

 

[SPR]

I think this will look really nice, middle back of the tank, maybe on its side