Serpent Starfish lost a leg AGAIN!

rebekwl

Active Member
Hello everyone! I am slightly concerned because my starfish lost another leg yesterday (lost 1 about a week ago or so). I checked the water, all perameters are good, but my nitrates were up to about 15. I did a water change and will test again when I get home this evening. Could these nitrate levels cause him to stress out and disassemble? I know it is not ideal for the levels to be this high, but it's not like they're through the roof. I'm not really sure why else he would be stressing. We did add another power head, and he no longer likes his favorite spot. Could too much flow be the problem?

I was also wondering if it's ok to add another fishie this evening with the nitrates being at 15.

Thanks!!!!
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
I might wait just a tad until you can figure out what's up with your star... it could (not necessarily for sure it) indicating a condition that's worsening... no sense adding to the bio-load while it's in question.... *S*

Good luck!!

Allen
 

rebekwl

Active Member
Yeah, I figured it would be wise to wait, even though I've been holding back for so long it's driving me nutty!! Do serpent stars have the habit of running around dropping legs? How long should I worry?
 

Dentoid

Smile Maker
PREMIUM
I have had 2 rather large Serpent stars, different species than yours, with nitrates in the 40's and it has not been a problem. I would consider the stability of the system. Invertebrates are more prone to stress if there are wild or fluctuating water parameters (especially salinity, temperature and pH). One common fluctuation is salinity. Salinity rises slowly as water evaporates and can have a big decrease when fresh top off is added quickly. Have you noticed this around times that you have made changes to the water? Stability is number one when it comes to invertebrates. Also, dismemberment is a defense mechanism. Is there anything that could be harassing the star? Perhaps a hitchhiker?
 

rebekwl

Active Member
I actually noticed his leg missing when I was getting ready to do a water change. I guess it could be from evaporation, although I don't notice too much. I haven't SEEN anything that could be harassing it, but you never know!! It could be hiding. All I have are snail and hermit crabs, and the hermits are pretty small. I will keep a close eye on the salinity from now on, and try to keep it as stable as possible, and will top off more slowly than usual. Thanks, I'll let you all know if he has any more problems!
 

BoomerD

Well-Known Member
aquarium

"Be especially careful monitoring the salinity (specific gravity), pH and other chemical parameters of the tanks! Sudden changes in these will cause your marine pets serious harm (and not only the ophiuroids)! Proper acclimation is critical for all animals, but brittle stars are notorious for quickly dying after introduction. In this case, proper acclimation means a long, slow one. A 'drip" method is easy to do (take some airline tubing, tie a knot in it to get a slow, even flow rate). The acclimation should continue until the salinity in the container with the brittlestar is the same as that in your system. Often this may take 4 or more hours. Even if your salinity is the same in your system and in the store system, still take time to acclimate. Other parameters, such as pH and alkalinity may still vary, causing stress and death."

"When stressed or sick, ophiuroids will autonomize their arms. Many people have reported brittle stars developing other injuries, like holes in the disk (probably from a predatory attack). If the damage is to a few arms, or a small hole in the disk, it is best to leave these animals in the tank and remove any animal that might be aggravating the 'star. Unexplained holes in the disk may be the result of ‘distended disk syndrome.’ (For examples, see the “outbreak” section of the Tabloids). The animal will very likely regrow the arms and repair the disk damage. However, if the brittlestar has lost more than half the disk, is staying out in the open, or unable to turn itself over when placed on its back, it should be removed and destroyed. It will not likely recover from extreme trauma. Euthanasia of echinoderms can be done through slow addition of fresh water or epsom salts until the animal no longer responds."
 

lcstorc

Well-Known Member
There is likely a cause of some type. I have had my serpent star for well over a year and he has never dropped a limb. Particularly with no predators I would serously test water parameters. How is the ph, alk, calk, mag? How are you measuring your salinity and how are you doing the water changes. The new water should match in temp, salinity and ph before doing the change. What percentage of water are you changing? How long do you mix the nsw before doing the change?
Lots of variables here. Sorry to ask so many questions.
 

rebekwl

Active Member
pH looks a little low this morning. I think I need to get a new test though, just to make sure. I did 2 different tests, 1 says 7.6 and the other says 8.0. Is there a digital pH indicator I can look into?
I am also still using a hydrometer to test SG, I am planning on buying a refractometer next week.
Other water parameters are all good:
Alk-2.0
Nitrites-0
Ammonia-0
Nitrates-5
Temp-79
SG-1.0245(hydrometer)
Calk-no test kit
Mag-no test kit

I do a 10% water change once a week. I mix the nsw in a big bucket for about an hour with a power head. I do not check temp/SG before adding it to the display. I guess I will have to start doing this from now on.

I think that's it. What should I do about the low pH. I have some buffer, should I add it to the tank?? Thanks all for your help!!

Boomerd-thanks for the link, hopefully my star will be ok!!
 

lcstorc

Well-Known Member
In the future mix your nsw for at least 24 hrs before adding to the tank. You also need to make sure the temp, salinity, and ph match the tank before adding.
Personally I would add buffer to raise the ph a bit but you really need a reliable test kit first. There is a big difference between 7.6 and 8.0.
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
I would also suggest getting a sample to the LFS and see what their tests show. You need to establish which of your tests was correct and figure out what the difference was. It could be something as simple as not using the right # of drops, not having the test tube clean before starting, or I have even seen erroneous reading because someone was covering the test tube with their thumb when shaking. I would take a notebook and take tests a few times a day. Note the different readings and anything you're doing differently each time.

You have to make sure your new salt water matches your existing exactly. If not, evertime you do a water change you're shocking your critters and your inverts are the most sensitive to this condition.

good luck and hang in there!!

Allen :)
 

bluespotjawfish

Well-Known Member
pH readings from the fish store may not be accurate. The change in pH from the time water is taken from your tank to when you get to the fish store could vary substantially because of oxygenation. You would be better off to get an accurate pH monitor. I now use both a pH pen and my Reefkeeper monitor. I calibrate them at the same time, when the monitor doesn't seem right, the pen is used as a backcheck as to whether it is time to recalibrate.
 

rebekwl

Active Member
Ok, thanks. I will check into the reefkeeper monitor and a pH pen. I am deffinitely going to be upgrading all of my testing supplies here shortly, because there is no way to know for sure what the right readings are. Besides, it's really hard to tell from the colors you have to choose from with those drop tests!! I may just be over exagerating because I cannot tell the difference from one color to another.

I did think about taking a sample to the fish store for testing, but Lorraine has a good point. Everything would probably change by the time I got there, which would pretty much defeat the purpose :( I will get it all figured out.

I will be getting a bigger container for water changes, and setting it up with a top and all, so I can keep it set up with a power head for 24 hrs. before adding it. The container I have now doesn't have a top, and my 1 year old thinks of it as having her own personal ocean in the living room.

Thanks for the advice everyone!! I'm not there yet, but I'm working on it!!!
 

Dentoid

Smile Maker
PREMIUM
The container I have now doesn't have a top, and my 1 year old thinks of it as having her own personal ocean in the living room.

I know your one year olds safety is your number one concern and you are probably aware of this, but I just wanted to say that children have been known to drown in buckets of 1 gallon of water. Please do not leave open buckets, especially with water, in the reach of children.:)
 

rebekwl

Active Member
Yeah, that's my main concern and the reason that I do not let it mix for 24 hours. I don't want her messing with it and she thinks it's the greatest thing ever. So I usually sit and watch it for about an hour to keep her away, then I pour it in. I'll be getting a large container with a top soon, for her safety. Thanks :)
 
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