Seeking Guidance, Information & Patience - New Red Sea Max 130D Owner

Soupylou

Member
Hi Ladies & Gents,

For my 30th Birthday, my parents have bought me brand new Red Sea Max, frankly I was not expecting this and have always loved marine life but been bit fearful of going marine. I am lover of animals and believe everything should be respected and looked after.

So my tank is coming this Monday and I am in no rush to get it up and running and make terrible decisions which will impact the fish stock lives and my own pocket. I have sat this evening reading ton of forums and came to conclusion this forum seem to be the friendliest.

So i was wondering if there was any informative, patient, wonderful fish keepers, who would like to guide me the patient right way of doing this? Please help :p

Lucy x
 

ReefApprentice

Well-Known Member
:welcomera To RS a wonderful forum with lots of helpful members!!!Start a reef chronicle in the RSM club. There are a lot of helpful people there.
 

goma

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
Welcome Lucy!! I don't have an 130 so I can't help with the setup but I have been reef keeping for 4 years now. You'll hear this over and over again and you seem to already be heeding the advice...and that is go slow!!!!!!! Take your time, ask plenty of questions and you'll do great! Looking forward to seeing your tank progress!
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
welcomefish.gif

to ReefSanctuary and the RSM Club, a real Sanctuary of reef forums, with lots of very nice members
745.gif
 

You will have success... lots of members started their sw (saltwater) journey with a RSM as their 1st sw tank - I did :dance:

To start, you will want to select a good sand, then decide if you will use dry lr (live rock) or alive lr, or a combo of both. Everyone on RS can help advise here... these elements are not unique to RSM tanks - then obtain some ro/di water & learn about cycling the tank - one way is drop in a raw deli shrimp & let it rot :) in a few weeks (3 to 6 is a good guess), your tank will be cycled, depending on the state of your lr.

The best thing you could possibly do, you have done, joined RS & started asking question here before buying things :) so I am sure you will have sw success
 

slfcaptain

Active Member
I have the 130D and I started with dry rock from BulkReefSupply (the pukani) and seeded with a couple of pounds of live rock from the LFS. You can look through my tank thread to see my progress. I am only a couple of months into it so I'm still a newbie too.

Good luck,

Steve
 

Wrangy

Acropora Nut
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
Welcome to RS!! :) and more importantly the RSM owners club :D
First off NEVER EVER be scared to ask any questions here :) We're all super nice and love helping (I know I do lol) secondly as everyone has said make sure you go slow, take your time, have some sort of plan and be patient!! :)

A couple of questions you should answer that will greatly help get you on your way to creating an amazing underwater home for your fishy and coral friends :) These are for the long run too because one day you'll get there and if you plan now it will save you time and money :) regardless of what skill level you feel you are at be honest to yourself about what you want :)

1.) What do you want to keep in your tank?? Fish only, fish only with live rock (FOWLR), coral/invert only, or a mixed reef with fish :)
2.) What sort of corals do you want to end up with as the dominant type in your tank?? Soft corals, large polyp stony corals (LPS corals), small polyp stony corals (SPS corals)
3.) The type of rock you want to use?? Dead (not live) rock, dry live rock or live live rock

Bit of info on some of the things I've said (you may already know all this but better I say it than not? lol):

The soft corals
(Not really a soft coral man but I'll do my best to explain) Soft corals are corals that have little or no stony (calcareous) skeleton are generally very fleshy with large-ish polyps (some have smaller polyps). The soft corals (softies) are generally the easiest corals to care for as they do not require intense lighting and can be quite tolerant of less stable water conditions. As they have no zooxanthellae they require their energy to come from either nutrient uptake directly from the water, feeding on micro-particles in the water like plankton and small pods (copepods and amphipods) and some softies require some more meaty foods like chopped up prawns (shrimps) or bits of fish. Soft corals are corals like stoloniferans, gorgonians, sea pens, mushrooms, zoanthids and anemones. While these are generally the easiest types of corals to keep there are exceptions so always double check things and make sure you do your research on something before a purchase :)


The stony corals
LPS:
LPS corals are large polyp stony corals, they generally are a little hardier than SPS corals but are similar. While they maybe called large polyp stonies there polyp size doesn't always determine whether they are lps or sps just to confuse you a little bit haha. LPS corals are corals like acans, hammer or torch corals, plate corals or brain corals to name a few. These corals require very stable water conditions and generally high to moderate lighting conditions, they also require some calcium to be present in the water because they are stony corals and this means that they have a hard calcified skeleton and require calcium and a few other elements to ensure proper healthy growth LPS corals can generally be feed and seen consuming the food which is pretty awesome IMO but generally only need so once a week or so.

SPS:
SPS are, you guessed it, small polyp stony corals. They are the much harder to keep brothers of the lps corals. They require near perfect water that is exceptionally stable and high amounts of strong lighting in most cases. Sps corals are corals like the Acropora, Montipora and such corals. They require plenty of calcium in the water as they need plenty for proper growth along with other trace elements as they have more hard calcified skeletons with small polyps on them and can grow quite quickly but they are the most beautiful type of coral out there IMHO and are truly incredible creatures!

Both types of the above corals contain zooxanthellae (in most cases) which is why they require such strong lighting because they get large amounts of their daily requirements in terms of energy from they symbiotic relationship with these photosynthetic algae (which are brown in colour by themselves). LPS corals have large "mouths" on their polyps which is why they can be feed and thrive from the occasional feeding and most sps corals don't need feeding just strong lighting as their zooxanthellae produce most of their energy but some people add corals nutrients to the water with great success but in the beginning nothing is more important than stable water conditions and strong lighting for both these types of corals

While they are harder to care for with a bit of patience and determination you can have a wonderful sps, lps or mixed sps-lps coral reef in your very own home (would strongly recommend against having soft corals in there with them due to the coral warfare that you will have go on in the tank if you do)

Rock
There are several different types of rock that you can put in your tank as the basis of its make up. The general rule of thumb )that applies across all types of rock) is the more porous the rock the better it is! The reason being is there is a larger surface are for beneficial bacteria to grow on.
Dead (not live) rock:
Is just 'normal' rock that has been dried and sometimes boiled so there is no life or bacteria on it at all, people like this as creative aquascaping is easy to achieve as there is nothing to kill on it by having it exposed to air for extended periods of time. This rock will eventually grow the good bacteria's but you won't get any hitch-hikers with it (HH) which some people see as a massive positive and other see as something that isn't what you should be doing (me for one).
Dry live rock:
Is live rock that hasn't been kept submerged or completely wet. It still retains a large amount of the positive bacteria but no HH (hitch-hikers) on it which is a good balance if you really want to avoid them. It usually also has some coralline algae on it which is a good thing.
Live live rock:
Is live rock that has been keep submerged and completely wet through it's life. This retains virtually all the good bacteria's and has the added bonus of HH along with plenty of coralline algae.

Hitch-Hikers:
Hitch-hikers are all the little critters that can tag along on live rock (LR). They can be all sorts of things; pods, small crabs and snails, small corals, bristle worms, sea stars and I've even seen some get a fish or two that survives as a hh. All these little creatures will turn your tank into a real reef (I strongly recommend the use of LR as it completes the ecosystem you want to create rather than the barren wastelands of dead rock). However, that being said there are a few evil little critter you want to get rid of if you find them (which is why a careful insepection of everything as it goes into your tank is good :)) and they are:
Majano or aptasia anemones (they will sting every coral insight and can reach plague proportions)
Crabs (if you don't want any) they can knock things over and eat your snails and other things
Eunice worms (absolutely the worst evil thing to find, they eat everything, corals fish you name it and they can grow quite large and they are considerably hideous and disgusting)

Feel free to ask about anymore info on anything I've said as I try and do my best to help everyone :) so I hope this has helped! :)

Dom
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
Uncured live rock is fresh rock from the ocean that is full of waste and debris and die-off from shipping

a great :read:

Buy Live Rock, Cured Rock, Uncured Rock, Walt Smith Live Rock Online | Vivid Aquariums

How to Cure Live Rock

What is Cycling?

from the link ad vivid - use a deli shrimp - not a fish... to start the ammonia cycle

Cycling is the process by which man-made saltwater is turned into 'seawater'. You must cultivate the right bacteria in your filter system by allowing nature to take it's course. Once your tank is fully cycled, your system will have the right biological and chemical balance for livestock.
1. Basically, a new system starts out with no bacteria.
2. Bacteria eat waste.
3. To create bacteria, we have to create waste.
4. Do this by adding uncured live rock to your aquarium. Live rock releases waste and provides a place for good bacteria to grow. (Some people will use small fish or inverts to cycle, but we highly recommend uncured live rock. Do not use damsels. Damsels are aggressive and you will limit what you can add to your tank.)
5. Ammonia is a byproduct of waste. Ammonia is deadly to livestock.
6. You will see a high ammonia spike. This is great! That means cycling has begun.
7. As the bacteria multiply in your filter system, they convert ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is also highly toxic but not as deadly.
8. Ammonia comes down, nitrite goes up.
9. Then bacteria convert nitrite to nitrate. Nitrate is the least toxic.
10. Ammonia and nitrite comes down. Nitrate goes up.
11. To get rid of nitrate, you must do a water change - no more than 20%.
12. The end goal is ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate < 15 ppm, pH between 8.1-8.4, specific gravity between 1.020-1.025 .

Once cycling is complete and live rock is cured, there should be no more die-off or smell from your live rock. Also, waste from your protein skimmer should be greatly reduced. Cycling may take 1-8 weeks.

Remember, add livestock slowly as livestock creates waste which creates ammonia. You have to allow bacteria to catch up and multiply to keep your system balanced.
 

KarlyBoy

Member
Welcome, you will not meet a nicer or more knowledgeable bunch, than here, everyone wants to help you be successful with your tank


Thanks for following the thread
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
If it helps... I started my 1st swt (saltwater tank) with all uncured expensive Tonga Branch LR (my 130D)

my 2nd swt (my RSM 250) I used 80% dry rock (Marco's dry rock) and 20% LR from lfs (local fish store) one really never know how "cured" it is, just add it, a deli shrimp to rot & start testing...

cherryscape12a55lbs.3.jpg


Both ways work great - the 2nd allowed me to spend more $$$ on corals

Pics of both... near the start of both my tanks threads, if interested :)

Cycling tank:

Watch for the ammonia to soar then fall to zero, then the nitrites soar & then fall to zero, then the nitrates soar, once this happens, do water changes to get rid of the nitrates - tank cycled

Depending on the state of your LR (how cured it was & how much die off it had), in general it will look something like this...

CyclingGraph.gif
 

Lipman

Active Member
Btw,
I remember when i started (not long ago) I asked some questions here and saw alot of graphs and things regarding ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph etc.
If you dont know what these things are you will learn quick. Dont let it scare you seeing them :p. ( i know when i saw it i thought i was maybe a little bit over my head).

Its much easier once you get started, as everyone has said just ask questions if your unsure :)


 

Soupylou

Member
Welcome, you will not meet a nicer or more knowledgeable bunch, than here, everyone wants to help you be successful with your tank


Thanks for following the thread

Hey KarlyBoy - I live in Chorleywood & work in Hemel Hempstead - What LS do you use? I went to Hunton Bridge one and wasn't that impressed.

Question 2 - Would Hydor Koralia Nano pump be suitable to mix my sea salt together? Just purchase pink lockable dustbin 110litres to mix the sea to the water & 25litre Jerry Can to place under my Kitchen Sink for emergency and top ups.

Question 3 - Any recommendation of additional equipment to purchase for the tank it self? Yes it's meant to be plug and play but I want to be in very good position from the word go. I have budget of 2k for livestock and equipment.

I'm just looking into portable RO unit right now - whoop! I would prefer to not have to plug it into my kitchen sink, any recommendations?

I do understand the The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle - I have tropical fish tank where i did 8 week fishless cycle with Biomature.

Question 4: I would also like to purchase hospital tank/QT for sick fishes and QT up to six weeks for my new fishes - Would Boyu marine nano be suitable? its all in one and i can place the filter into my stump ready in time for my new fishes to be placed into the QT tank?
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
a maxijet 1200 works great

Aquatics Warehouse UK Maxijet 1200 Powerhead

the korilla nano would be to weak, imo (I bought one for my rsm 130d, before getting a vortech MP10) I mixed sw with the maxijet 1200, works great

I would encourage you to get to know the tank, you can have great success stock & add mods latter - put your $$$ in an ro/di unit & a refractometer - Cheers
 

KarlyBoy

Member
So, I use either Maidenhead Aquatics in St. Albans or DeepBlue Aquatic in Hilliers Garden Center on Leighton Buzzard Road, Matt is a nice Guy, who owns the place

HydroKoralia will be fine, just make sure the water is up to temperature, and that you give it plenty of time go mix.

Additional equipment: Chiller is always good to have, for our warm British summer ;-), save the rest for Livestock. An RO/DI is a nice to have, and almost a necessity and dead easy to fit and use.

Boyu Marine would be excellent QT, I use a Kent Marine BIO, and generally just keep it running with out Live Rock , just Plumbing pipes for fish to hide in. QT is always the way to go, lost many tanks rushing to put fish in display tank




Thanks for following the thread
 

whippetguy

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
Welcome to Reef Sanctuary! You picked the right forum for an RSM tank. Looking forward to following your journey.
 

magicmann

Active Member
Lucy
Welcome to Reef Sanctuary, I have used Living Reef Aquatics in Dartford and they have some fantastic stock
 
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