RSM S650 FLOATVALVE

BB1023

New Member
1. Has anyone replaced the refresh water float valve in sump with a more precise valve to regulate RO flow for makeup water in sump? I have never gotten the float valve supplied with my RSM S650 to work. Please advise.

Related to this issue "regulating makeup water" my system using the original T5 lighting, evaporates 2 to 2.5 maybe 3 gallons of water per day. I add RO manually as a result. Even if the float valve functions properly I will need to devise another supplement reservoir by 5 or more gallons coupled with built-in 10 gallon reservoir to allow me "peace of mind" during a 4 to 5 day vacation away from home.

2. Has anyone added on to the built-in reservoir another 5 or 10 gallon container so it may refill the built-in reservoir or additional supply on demand. Note: I purchase my RO from a local shop every 3 to 4 days (10 gallons) and have not set-up a RO system (not ready for that yet).

I have changed the duration and timing of the RSM T5 hood to later in the day and reduced when both banks of lights are on. When set normally my 1/3 hp Arctic Cooler worked way too much (also reduced Arctic temp set down 1deg to 79 deg/F) during normal operations.

fyi-I can't wait until the New RSM MAXS LED Hood Upgrade is available in the USA, that will sure help.
Thank you,
Bob
 

DaveR11

Well-Known Member
Hi Bob,

The float valve in my S650 seems to work fine. In the 10 months I've had the tank I think it has stuck maybe 3 times and a quick twist to get the flow going and throttle back to the regular drip has cured the problem. I record the amount I put in the ATO reservoir so with the T5s I was losing an average of 3.88 liters per day (over that 10 month period). This is in the English climate in a centrally heated house kept at around 20 centigrade. I've had the LEDs a couple of weeks now and I've seen no significant change in the ATO usage but it is still early days. So for me my ATO will on average last about 9 days and the longest I've gone has been 11 days before needing a complete refill.

The change I have seen since adding the LEDs is the tank runs a bit cooler and the heater has kicked in a few times. Probably not hot enough here in the UK yet but my chiller has not kicked in since adding the LEDs. It will be interesting to see how much it comes on during the summer.

Best of luck,

Dave
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
I don't have an RSM S650, however it does seem to have a more or less standard sump. if you don't like the float switch, you should be able to install something like a Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155. See this link (offsite) - http://www.marinedepot.com/Tunze_Os...f_Plug_In_Units-Tunze-TZ4111-FIDPETPU-vi.html

The Tunze Osmolator is one of the most expensive ATOs out there, and I show it as an example only. There are other similar ATOs available at a lower price.

I use one on my 125 gal reef, and because it has a pump, it can be used with a very large container of top off water. I use a 35 gal Rubbermaid plastic trashcan. Like you, I found out my system can evaporate 2 to 3 gal of water, especially in winter.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
,,,The float valve in my S650 seems to work fine. In the 10 months I've had the tank I think it has stuck maybe 3 times and a quick twist to get the flow going and throttle back to the regular drip has cured the problem.,,

Everyone is different, but I would consider 3 failures over 10 months far too many, especially if I was going to be away for a couple of weeks at a time. This is a piece of gear you just don't want to fail, since it can mean the return pump running dry.
 

RedSeaKev

RS Sponsor
Folks, the top up system on the S series is very simple, it is a gravity float system, there will be need for adjustment of the drip control valve occasionally, that said it is also a means of isolating the R/O storage, you can even remove this valve so long as you are happy to isolate by pinching and bending the pipe back on it's self and tying off with an elastic band.

The system is designed for topping up for a number of days, it is certainly not able to top up a system for weeks, if this time duration is needed they it would be wise to look at an alternative system.
 

BB1023

New Member
Thanks everyone. My problem with the simple flow valve is it does not close when the float is completely covered with water. Also the small rubber "O" ring displaces if you have to shut off the water flow, which also causes the valve to fail. So either I figure out what is wrong with the float valve supplied or find an alternative system which is reliable. I am curious if anyone has had this problem with a Max S system? and what they did to cure it.
 

BTimmons

Active Member
I had an S650 for 2.5 years and never had the problem that you are describing. Mine worked consistently and never overfilled my tank. I would recommend getting a replacement float switch from one of the Red Sea parts suppliers.

I often thought about adding onto the reservoir somehow but never did, I just switched to LEDs instead. Maybe you could try turning off some T5s while you vacation? A few days shouldn't kill anything. It's also a good idea to have somebody come by and check on your tank while you're gone if it's possible. Then you could just leave a few jugs of water out and ask them to replenish the reservoir. Good luck!
 

BB1023

New Member
HELP I just received my fourth float valve from Red Sea; installed today and again with a full reservoir (10 gallons) the float is covered with water and the float valve will not shut off flow.

The water escapes from the adjustment cap with small o-ring. Had to tighten down again to slow flow rate. I really don't see how this float valve works, please confirm where water should drip from (cap or at float)?
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
HELP I just received my fourth float valve from Red Sea; installed today and again with a full reservoir (10 gallons) the float is covered with water and the float valve will not shut off flow.

The water escapes from the adjustment cap with small o-ring. Had to tighten down again to slow flow rate. I really don't see how this float valve works, please confirm where water should drip from (cap or at float)?

Sometimes there is a piece of equipment you just can't seem to get to work, even though everyone else says it's easy.

Sometimes it's best to cut your losses and end your frustration with a piece of equipment, and replace it, even though it will cost you more money. Like Popeye says, "That's all I can stands, I can't stands no more".

I have been through this a few times my self, and ended up replacing a skimmer or lighting other major parts of the system.

In your case, consider an alternative ATO system. Note that even Red Sea's Rep, @RedSeaKev says that the ATO will not hold a long term supply of water and that there have been some issues with valves.
 

ajkdark

Active Member
This float valve. If installed and set up correctly is faultless. Been using one for two years. No matter issues at all.

For my recent vacation. I supplemented the rear reservoir by using a liter meter pump. I pumped water into the rear chamber from a 25 litre container into the rear reservoir. At a rate, slightly less than the daily top up consumption. Worked a treat :)
 

BB1023

New Member
has anyone replaced the RS float valve with another brand and if so which brand? I installed a AquaRX float valve but it uses a RO type rigid tube connection. Will have to figure out a way to connect the RS rubber hose to a rigid fitting and hope this float valve works. I tried using the hose connection on the RS but as you expect it didn't work. Help.
 

Sooren

New Member
Just buy the Tunze with the optical sensor and second back up valve, I have the s500 and fitted it from day one, never let me down and its fit and forget apart from wiping the sensor every month.
Regards
Paul
 

BB1023

New Member
Sooren: I did purchase the Tunze but this device does not allow for submerged switching, pump "On". I wanted to use the built-in RS 10 gallon water supply first (controlled by float valve-now replaced with AquFx valve), and install a electric switch sensor below water level to switch Tunze pump on to empty secondary water refill. Tunze system does not allow this per rep. So I use this setup in reverse (empty external water Tank first, then after Tunze pump alarm runs for 10min on empty and shuts off, water level falls below float valve and RS water tank empties.
 

Mdk16

Member
I also had a problem with consistency with the float valve and installed the tunze osmolator. This has been one of the best mods I have done to the tank. I placed the pump in the back 10 gallon reservoir and ran the hose to the top right corner where the overflow/window is located. The electric eye and backup valve are located in the sump next to the stock float valve. I originally tried running the hose directly to the sump but the steep drop resulted in a siphon once the pump turned on. I also bought a solenoid from auto top off that I plan on installing to my RO unit and tunze controller to keep a constant water supply connected to the tank. This setup also includes a double float valve in the reservoir for redundancy.
 
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