Reef aquarium nutrients
- Thread starter mlopez
- Start date
I don't think you would have a problem, since they are going after different things. You could consider alternating them every other day, or when ever you dose, if you want to be a bit more careful.
However, before dousing anything, first make sure you actually have a problem, and second make sure you have exhausted other means of controlling nitrates and phosphates. By having a problem, I'm talking about something like really excessive algae growth that can't be controlled by the usual means of cutting back on feeding, more partial water changes, filtration system upgrades and so on. A higher reading than you would like, by itself does not necessarily indicate an issue.
However, before dousing anything, first make sure you actually have a problem, and second make sure you have exhausted other means of controlling nitrates and phosphates. By having a problem, I'm talking about something like really excessive algae growth that can't be controlled by the usual means of cutting back on feeding, more partial water changes, filtration system upgrades and so on. A higher reading than you would like, by itself does not necessarily indicate an issue.
That a bit higher than you'd like but not really that bad.
Hoe long has the tank been set up? From what your describing, it sounds like it's been going only a short period of time. If this is the case, your best option may be water changes and time.
What do you have in the tank as a clean up crew? You may need more.
Uncle99
Well-Known Member
I dose NoPox daily to lower Nitrates to 3-5ppm.
NoPox will also lower phosphates, but not as much as nitrate.
I use Agent Green ( a Lanthium Chloride product like yours) to lower phosphates, but only until I get them to .1 ppm.
Then I lower the .1 phosphate by using a good GFO to 0.02-0.05 then I stop until phosphate gets back to .1
If you feed frozen, melt, rinse, strain, and only feed the parts.
Some dry foods contain phosphate, so if you have, discard.
NoPox will also lower phosphates, but not as much as nitrate.
I use Agent Green ( a Lanthium Chloride product like yours) to lower phosphates, but only until I get them to .1 ppm.
Then I lower the .1 phosphate by using a good GFO to 0.02-0.05 then I stop until phosphate gets back to .1
If you feed frozen, melt, rinse, strain, and only feed the parts.
Some dry foods contain phosphate, so if you have, discard.
I have one year with this new set up 90 gal.almost two years this Coming June I did transfer all the corals I had and live rock then. I also added more live rock a couple of months after and more corals since then. I do need to get clean up crew only have a few snails emerald crabs bristle star
Uncle99
Well-Known Member
It OK to have a small CUC, but that's it. The rest just die and contribute to the total nutrients.
Continue to hone your skills at mastering water parameters and making them consistent and stable, low on the nutrients side in the 2-5pp for nitrate and 0.03-.0.07, max. 0.1 phosphate.
This amongst all reduces the need for CUC.
My total CUC in a 65g is 10 Nar's, 20 Astrea (ninja types better) 2 Meican.
My take on CUC is waste of money. Perfect on point water along with balanced photoperiod in the correct spectrum, removes more algae that any combination of CUC.
I don't use crabs, emerald is fine though, just keep an eye on him, he is really good for bubble algae.
Continue to hone your skills at mastering water parameters and making them consistent and stable, low on the nutrients side in the 2-5pp for nitrate and 0.03-.0.07, max. 0.1 phosphate.
This amongst all reduces the need for CUC.
My total CUC in a 65g is 10 Nar's, 20 Astrea (ninja types better) 2 Meican.
My take on CUC is waste of money. Perfect on point water along with balanced photoperiod in the correct spectrum, removes more algae that any combination of CUC.
I don't use crabs, emerald is fine though, just keep an eye on him, he is really good for bubble algae.