Red Sea Max 250 Filtration recommendations.

Kirsten Hammett

New Member
I Red Sea Max 250 that has been running for about 5 years now and I have always had some issues with algae/ high nitrates/ high phosphates. I do regular water changes but my corals have never seemed to really do that great. Most live but never have great color. I have been following some forums for red sea max owners that take out the black sponges in the sump area. My question is what do you replace them with/ what kind of filtration are you running in these tanks that seems to work well? thanks!
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
:rbwwelc:to RS ! No blacks sponges in my RSM 250, just a square of white filter floss in the holder made for it, rinsed weekly.
 

Kirsten Hammett

New Member
thank you for your reply! Do you have the filter floss on both sides? any chance you have the link for the filter floss you use? and do you run chemi-pure and purigen also?
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
I do run chemi-pure and purigen

https://intankaquatics.com/intank-bonded-poly-filter-floss-value-pack-3-pads/

only here,,,

rear-filter-jpg.56196
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
I... I have always had some issues with algae/ high nitrates/ high phosphates. ...

I believe your asking the wrong question. Your asking about filtration and media being used. I think your question should be how do I control high nitrates, high phosphates and algae?

Wile filtration is an important part of this, it is much more likely that your problems are being caused by other things. I've posted this before, but it's worth posting again. It is a summary on how to control algae.

DaveK's Standard Lecture #2 - Algae Control

Algae control comes down to controlling nitrates and phosphates. If you have a problem with algae it is because these two nutrients are out of control. Do not think that just because your test kits read zero or low values that you do not have a problem. In many cases the algae is removing the nutrients and growing. This is why there is a problem.

Here are possible sources of nitrates and phosphates -

Feeding, especially flake food and not rinsing frozen foods before feeding.
Using tap water to mix salt. Always use RO/DI water for this.
"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.
Low quality carbon can leach nutrients.
Low quality salt can sometimes add nutrients. This is unusual today.
Livestock load on the system

Here are possible ways to remove nitrates and phosphates -

Water changes. Change 1/2 the water and you reduce the nutrients by 1/2.
Skimming. Remove the waste products before the biological filtration need to break then down.
Nitrate and phosphate removal products.
Deep sand beds.
Refugiums.
Algae Scrubbers.

Each of these has advantages and disadvantages. Most people that control algae will use many of the above methods.

There are also other items that can effect algae growth rates.

Good clean up crew.
Other livestock that eats algae.
Low general water quality, especially when the readings are off.
Lighting, sometimes you can reduce it, especially in FO or FOWLR systems.
Old light bulbs. Colors change as they age and this can be a factor.
Water flow. More flow will often help keep algae down.
Manual removal. Very important, especially when there is a big problem.

--- end of standard lecture

I'd say the most common problems with algae control are feeding way too much, feeding the wrong foods, and not feeding correctly. Dry food like flakes or pellets contain a lot of nitrates and phosphates. Frozen foods should be rinsed in fw to remove the "juice". this can also be a big indirect source of nitrates and phosphates.

If your not using RO/DI water for mixing new water and for top off, I'd highly recommend it. Tap water often contains a lot of nitrates and phosphates.
 

Kirsten Hammett

New Member
thank you for all of the replies. I do feel like my feeding practice was contributing to my algae issue. I have changed to feed less/ more targeted and rinse before feeding. My bulbs also needed changing. Those black sponges were just always disgusting even with regular cleaning and the only other filtration I was using was phosguard. After reading quite a bit, I am changing to chemi-pure elite with purigen. I took out one black sponge two days ago and put in the chemi-pure elite yesterday. I will take out phosguard and put in purigen tomorrow. I also added some filter floss to the media rack above and below the chemi-pure elite bag but can anyone tell me a little more specifically where you put the floss in the tank? Does it need to be in the chambers above the pumps to collect larger particles from the pumps?

Thanks!
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
Post us some pics :) I think you have the latest model rsm 250, they added a rsm brand media rack that comes with the rsm 250 now, I believe
 

Kirsten Hammett

New Member
I will post some pictures. It may be in my head but I think the tank looks better already. It is an older rsm250. I bought it 4 years ago new. I love it.

Adding purigen and taking out phosguard tomorrow.
 

Kirsten Hammett

New Member
Here are some pictures of the tank. in pic 3 you can see how the coral on the bottom is growing but really does not have much color.
 

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nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
Pretty tank ! if you click on the little picture frame icon and add the image address they will show up big :)
index.php
prettty
 
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