Pancho75

Well-Known Member
Working on my visa papers in my couch.

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Pancho75

Well-Known Member
My flight from Dallas to Nashville got cancelled, now we will have to go to Charlotte and then to Nashville.

In the meantime, I can connect to R2R as my better half is sleeping next to me in the airport while the kids are playing. [emoji13]

Yestersay I noticed my circulation pumps 1 and 2 were not working. I re-started them several times and got the 1 working but the number 2 did not and I was not going to get on top of the tank and disassemble a pump at 9:30PM... [emoji15] they will have to be cleaned next week by my friend from the LFS.

Anyway, since I was looking at the pumps I noticed the mandarin decided to come out and gave me some “looks” while she was hunting for pods.

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Pancho75

Well-Known Member
@SPR @Nobbygas I would like to request some help from you. I having issues dialing my Nyos 160.

Can you please send a picture of your the water control tube bottom part?

Thanks a lot !
 
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SPR

Well-Known Member
@SPR @Nobbygas I would like to request some help from you. I having issues dialing my Nyos 160.

Can you please send a picture of your the water control tube bottom part?

Thanks a lot !
I’m not sending any pictures on my ‘bottom’ part to a Mexican on the internet called Pancho! Lol

I don’t have any actually and it’s underwater

Open the large tube and fine adjustment screw so the hole is fully open. And then just lower the fine adjustment screw until the bubbles are around the bottom of the neck, and then adjust over a few a days

On the NYOS 300, the large tube doesn’t move so you have to just use the fine adjustment screw and it’s actually easier to dial in. I found on the 160, if you use the long tube, you can sometimes turn it to far and nearly close it up, or go past and completely close the hole without realising, if you see what I mean.
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
I don't have any pictures either. However, what I do to set or re-set mine is to move the large tube on the back and look at the bottom. There is the hole. I then align that whole with the skimmer. Turn it on and wait a few minutes. You'll find that the level of bubbles inside the body is too low. Gently turn the large tube in a clockwise direction. Move it say "five minutes on a clockface" amount. Wait a few minutes and adjust again. This will provide a very good rough setting. You can then use the fine adjustment thingys on the top. I usually leave the air open 100%. The medium sized nozzle you can play with to raise/lower the bubbles inside the body.
Does that make sense?
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
Forgot to say just switch off the skimmer, let the water drain out and then you can easily lift it up a small amount to check the whole at the bottom of the large tube. Align the hole with the skimmer, so in effect it is open. I always refer to this as the 'default position'. Then switch it on and adjust away !
 

Pancho75

Well-Known Member
I’m not sending any pictures on my ‘bottom’ part to a Mexican on the internet called Pancho! Lol

I don’t have any actually and it’s underwater

Open the large tube and fine adjustment screw so the hole is fully open. And then just lower the fine adjustment screw until the bubbles are around the bottom of the neck, and then adjust over a few a days

On the NYOS 300, the large tube doesn’t move so you have to just use the fine adjustment screw and it’s actually easier to dial in. I found on the 160, if you use the long tube, you can sometimes turn it to far and nearly close it up, or go past and completely close the hole without realising, if you see what I mean.
I don't have any pictures either. However, what I do to set or re-set mine is to move the large tube on the back and look at the bottom. There is the hole. I then align that whole with the skimmer. Turn it on and wait a few minutes. You'll find that the level of bubbles inside the body is too low. Gently turn the large tube in a clockwise direction. Move it say "five minutes on a clockface" amount. Wait a few minutes and adjust again. This will provide a very good rough setting. You can then use the fine adjustment thingys on the top. I usually leave the air open 100%. The medium sized nozzle you can play with to raise/lower the bubbles inside the body.
Does that make sense?

LOL !!!

Thank you to both of you, I am using the same approach, I was afraid to have lost a part when I did the maintenance two weeks ago but it seems to be doing better now. I’ll keep an eye on it.
 

Pancho75

Well-Known Member
My guess is Aquaman !

LOL !

No ! it is a CBB, one of my dream fish. I really like them and I am hoping he develops a taste for aiptasia. Also got a new melanarus as the my previous one went MIA.

The LFS also got 3 tangs for me: purple, yellow and blue. They will hold them until we receive the magnificent fox face in order to introduce them at the same time in my tank.
 

Pancho75

Well-Known Member
The rear pump 2 was completely dead a replacement was introduce while I decide what to do, recommendations?

1. I thought on just buying another Sicce and leave the things as they are, no fancy flows, no more cost and no control through the Apex.

2. Buy the 3 new Sicce DC pumps but I think I cannot control them with my Apex?

3. Buy 2 Ecotech Vortex and would have to buy also the Apex module to control them, this would also mean wires visible in the tank....

4. Buy another COR20 and get a triple divider to substitute the 3 current pumps.
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
The rear pump 2 was completely dead a replacement was introduce while I decide what to do, recommendations?

1. I thought on just buying another Sicce and leave the things as they are, no fancy flows, no more cost and no control through the Apex.

2. Buy the 3 new Sicce DC pumps but I think I cannot control them with my Apex?

3. Buy 2 Ecotech Vortex and would have to buy also the Apex module to control them, this would also mean wires visible in the tank....

4. Buy another COR20 and get a triple divider to substitute the 3 current pumps.

This all depends on your views on maintenance and ease of access. For me it was a pain. I understand the reasons but.......

3. There are no wires in the tank Pancho with the Vortech’s (dont buy the Vortex versions there copies! Lol)

There is 1 wire about 6 inches (depending on depth) on the outside going up that’s it, and you can’t see it from the inside or looking into. Take a look at that picture on my build thread it shows exactly what they look like.

I don’t think I like option 4 in an S series, although I guess that’s basically like a closed loop system.

If I had replaced the rear pumps, I quiet like Eheim’s as there fairly reliable but also quiet, maybe NYOS as well. But then so are the Sicce

It’s all personal choice at the end of the day of course, there are many ways to do things.
 
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