Newbie Red Sea Max 130D, Advice

[Colin Owen]

Evening,

Hope everyone had a great Christmas. First time posting and I was after some advice and any tips on a few of the following bits.

I've got a second hand Red Sea Max 130D , it's missing a few pieces i.e hood and lights, but I've put a AI Prime over the top and used some plastic to create a lip to reduce evaporation and stop any jumpers.

The tanks been up and running around 3-4 months now, iv'e got the following livestock:

-2 Emerald Crabs
-3 Orange Hermits
-2 Clowns one normal and one black
-2 Purple Dartfish
-snails, couple of nassarius, cerith and trochus.

This have gone really will without any issues and I'm keen to introduce a Coral to the tank ideally a torch coral.

The one constant issue I have is that my Nitrates are always above 20, I've tried everything, (reduced feeding, adding biological booster, a number of 20% water changes) and I've managed to get it 15 for perhaps a couple of days. Will this level of Nitrate detrimentally affect the coral?

All my other test are perfect;
-Nitrite =0
-Amonia = 0
-DKH=9
-Calcium=510
-Magnesium=1500

My second query was there any recommendations for modifying the tank, ideally I've like to have a place to grow some chaeto as I believe this can help reduce nitrates, I was thinking about putting in a drawstring bag and placing just after the skimmer but before the heater in the back of the tank, any opinions.



I've attached some pictures.


Many Thanks for any recommendations

 

[nanoreefing4fun]

to RS ! Pretty rock & scape ! love clowns

How often are you doing wc (water changes) ? 20% weekly should bring them down, if your not overfeeding. You are using ro/di water, correct? Most lps & soft corals should be okay.
See what others advise...

 

[Colin Owen]

Hi Glenn,

Cheers for the kind words.

Yep weekly 20% if not more, and correct RO/DI water, will see what else is recommended.

Thanks

 

[nanoreefing4fun]

PS - I think you have the original RSM 130, not the RSM 130D (deluxe) from looking at the overflow gate, you don't have a water level window on the left side of the tank, correct?

http://shop.mediabaskets.com/Red-Sea-Max-130-130D_c38.htm

an adjustable surface skimmer cup would be a nice upgrade

 

[Colin Owen]

Hi,

Having looked online I think you are correct as it's supplied as standard on the 130D.

Definitely think that would be worthwhile, just need to find a stockist in the UK.
Thanks

 

[nanoreefing4fun]

Here a good read on the nitrates... by Randy Holmes Farley - Randy is highly respected in the states...
http://reefkeeping.com/authors/rhf.php

if interested
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/8/chemistry

 

[Colin Owen]

Here a good read on the nitrates... by Randy Holmes Farley - Randy is highly respected in the states...
http://reefkeeping.com/authors/rhf.php

if interested
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/8/chemistry

Really interesting read.

 

[reefrookie513]

I would say your best bet would be a hob fuge. As far as nitrates go you can always use nopox by red sea. When my 130 was running I had a media reactor in the cabinet fed off of the accessory kit you can buy for it

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Oxylebius]

The one constant issue I have is that my Nitrates are always above 20, I've tried everything, (reduced feeding, adding biological booster, a number of 20% water changes) and I've managed to get it 15 for perhaps a couple of days. Will this level of Nitrate detrimentally affect the coral?

Nitrate is caused by a number of things. The one way to bring it down is water changes. That said, you can also bring it down or control its toxicity by adding chemicals to the tank.

It sounds like you have tried to reduce nitrate already by altering some of the things you have been doing, like trying to not overfeed and conducting weekly 20% water changes, etc..

Overfeeding is a major contributor; 1) overfeeding, 2) leaving uneaten food in tank, 3) type of food being fed. Not only feeding your fish more then they need, but allowing uneaten food to either fall to the sand bed or get sucked into the pump will contribute to nitrate. I turn off pumps when feeding and feed slowly so that no food falls to the sand bed. Another thing to consider is the type of food you are feeding the fish. Some types of food are high in nitrate to begin with. And if you are feeding frozen foods like krill, etc. it is best to thaw it in a little tank water (or rodi water), drain it, and I like to squeeze out the excess before I feed the fish. The liquid that the food is frozen in tends to be high in nitrates. You can go ahead and test the levels yourself to find out (thaw it in tank water and test it). These are all things that you can work on and it sounds like you have already started to do so.

Overstocking a tank is also a contributor of nitrate. If your tank is overstocked it will be hard to bring your nitrate down and keep it down. But knowing this, you can keep up the water changes or bump up the water changes to keep nitrate at a low level. Or buy a media reactor that targets the nitrate.

Dirty filters can also be contributors of nitrate. This includes any media that is left in the tank for too long. Always best to keep on top of changing out media and keeping the sump clean of debris. If you are able to clean your sump area when you do water changes, this will help to keep the detritus in check. I know it is sometimes hard to get back there. I tend to stir the sump and then do water changes (since it is hard for me to get to some of my sump areas).

I find that when I do water changes if I vacuum the sand bed I am better able to keep my nitrates under control more so then when I have left the sand bed for a couple of months w/o vacuuming. Again, it is detritus clean up from the tank.

If these don't start to work for you, there are nitrate reactors and the like on the market if you want to go that route.

 

[SPR]

Hi Colin

I think as mentioned above if you are having Nitrate issues I would start using Red Sea NoPox as it works very well on Nitrate and in your system you shouldn’t have to dose much of it to get everything under control very quickly. It’s basically carbon dosing and you can read up on using bacteria to eat up the Nitrates.

On the corals, there are infinite answers on the best Nitrate target. Some swear by ultra low nutrient levels, but I can honestly say my reef simply glows with life when Nitrate is around 10ppm. I target around 5-10ppm and have been up to 16ppm before and again the system thrives on these levels.

It may be also worth just checking the Nitrate levels were any corals you buy have been kept, and for how long. If they have been kept for long periods at very different levels to yours (ultra low for example), they may not like the adjustment in parameters. They may also be fine, but you will just have to see how you go.

Just make sure you keep phosphate at very low levels (around 0.03ppm) by whatever means necessary, either with the aid of NoPox or for example Rhowaphos (or another GFO) if needed in addition.

 

[Colin Owen]

Hi Everyone,

Just to update where I am, I brought and tested with a Salifert Phosphate kit, Initial reading on Wednesday was 0.1. With nitrates still around 25.

I made up some salt water yesterday using RODI from my LFS and tested this to find the water was after around 10 ppm for nitrates which is disappointing as I've always had a good relationship with them and brought the majority of my stuff from them.

I started dosing NOPOX yesterday, 2ml and tested my water this morning and the Phosphates were clear, with nitrates around 20. Would you expect to see an improvement this quickly on the Phosphate levels?

Also I've read from a number of forums around NOPOX having an adverse effect on livestock due to the reduction in oxygen, I've got my skimmer working well so not overly worried but wanted to see what other peoples stories were.

Lastly the green algae is intensifying (See image below) I think this was due to the program I was running my lights on, so I've pulled this back a bit, are there any recommendations for any livestock to take care of the algae?

Many Thanks

Colin

 

[Oxylebius]

Hi Everyone,I made up some salt water yesterday using RODI from my LFS and tested this to find the water was after around 10 ppm for nitrates which is disappointing as I've always had a good relationship with them and brought the majority of my stuff from them.

The next time you pick up rodi water from the lfs, ask them to test the TDS of the water. If the TDS is not zero, then don't buy it. If the TDS is above zero then the lfs needs to change out their filters on their rodi unit. If the TDS is zero and you mix up your salt water and it still reads 10ppm for nitrates then there are other issues going on. The salt mix shouldn't be producing those nitrate levels, if so then change the brand (look to see if there are recalls on the brand of salt). Also make sure that what ever you are mixing the water in is clean of any residue. Or it might be your test kit that is off, to test this buy a new test kit and test the water with both kits and compare results. Lastly, some test kits are hard to use and user error can sometimes provide false results. Those are all the things I can think of off the top of my head on things to look for or do in this situation.

Lastly the green algae is intensifying (See image below) I think this was due to the program I was running my lights on, so I've pulled this back a bit, are there any recommendations for any livestock to take care of the algae?

Snails would help with the algae. Some of my favorites are asteraea, nerite, cerith snails

 

[SPR]

I’ve used NoPox for 18 months + and I’ve not had any issues with live stock. It’s produced by Red Sea (who are not likely to sell anything that kills marine life) and most of the stories I’ve read, if not all, are by people who simply don’t read the instructions or have something else going on in the tank. So I wouldn’t worry about such stories. I’ve been on higher doses than the instructions say (after speaking with Red Sea) with no ill effects.

NoPox is very powerful and yes it could well work pretty quick. Just adjust the dose as needed until you find the correct balance and then just maintain and adjust as your system adjusts. Just follow the instructions and you won’t go far wrong. Have a read up on carbon dosing which is what NoPox is basically.

As @Oxylebius says, if the LFS can’t be bothered to sell decent water don’t buy it. Or just get your own RODI unit and that’s one issue solved for you.

Although your phosphate is showing zero, it could be being masked and being taken up by the green algea and fuelling it’s growth so I would maybe assume it’s not actually zero, and it’s unlikely to be anyway if your feeding etc., with the accuracy/error parameters of test kits.

 

[Colin Owen]

I’ve used NoPox for 18 months + and I’ve not had any issues with live stock. It’s produced by Red Sea (who are not likely to sell anything that kills marine life) and most of the stories I’ve read, if not all, are by people who simply don’t read the instructions or have something else going on in the tank. So I wouldn’t worry about such stories. I’ve been on higher doses than the instructions say (after speaking with Red Sea) with no ill effects.

NoPox is very powerful and yes it could well work pretty quick. Just adjust the dose as needed until you find the correct balance and then just maintain and adjust as your system adjusts. Just follow the instructions and you won’t go far wrong. Have a read up on carbon dosing which is what NoPox is basically.

As @Oxylebius says, if the LFS can’t be bothered to sell decent water don’t buy it. Or just get your own RODI unit and that’s one issue solved for you.

Although your phosphate is showing zero, it could be being masked and being taken up by the green algea and fuelling it’s growth so I would maybe assume it’s not actually zero, and it’s unlikely to be anyway if your feeding etc., with the accuracy/error parameters of test kits.

Thanks for this detailed feedback on the NoPOx Shaun, really help. Shame about my LFS but it'll encourage me to get my own RODI kit.

Thanks Colin

 

[Pat24601]

If you aren’t confrontational (and I’m sure not) you can get a tds meter and test your LFS water without asking them to.

I use this one. Super easy to use and works great. Not a bad thing to have anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HUDJALE/?tag=reefsanc-20

 

[DaveK]

Well, it looks like you found your nitrate problem, with the water from your LFS. Best to get your own RO/DI unit.

I think once you get the nitrates and phosphates down then the algae problem should go away by itself.

I do not recommend hang on the tank refugiums because they are really too small to really do anything. Refugiums are great, but you really need one much larger to be effective. Maybe set one in another tank about 1/3 the size of your main tank.

 

[Colin Owen]

Hi,
Brief Update, still dosing NoPox daily. Nitrates haven't dropped any further still at 15-20. Phophates are clear which is good.

Got home today though and one of my emerald crabs has kicked the bucket, I've attached images but looks like he literally keeled over. The other Emerald crab seems fine and is smaller.

RODI unit arrives tomorrow and I intend on completing a 50% water change and a further one at the weekend to finally sort the Nitrates out.

Thanks

Colin

 

[DaveK]

Are you sure that you found a dead crab and not a molt?

 

[Colin Owen]

Are you sure that you found a dead crab and not a molt?

Hi Dave,

Sadly not, he molted about a week before Christmas and was bloody huge, I then left his molt in the tank, on this occasion there was definitely a body in the shell.

Thanks