Well here it is. It's a little cloudy still but hopefully now that the pumps are on and everything is dialed in that should clear up soon. I'm using the RedSea Reef Mature Kit so today is just running the system for 24 hours prior to testing. Having an issue with the lights and timer though. For some reason they come on at the right time but kick off about 30 mins later. If anyone has any suggestions on solving that problem please feel free to chime in.
New RSM C250
- Thread starter cdeeds
- Start date
cdeeds ... I think you want the switch in the middle position... if the C model timer like the others... hope this helps - here an example
So having 2 slight problems. First off, the temps are all over the place. Naturally, when the lights are on they get higher but I'm seeing them move between 80-82 when the lights are on and around 76 when the lights are off. The heater is set to 79 so not quite sure why its getting lower than that. The other thing is that this is day 2 and the water is still a little cloudy. It's slowly going down but I've seen some tanks on day 1 look crystal clear. Is there a trick to that or is it natural?
I would check your thermometer... I have owned a half dozen & all of them are off, I now use a professional digital kitchen one
On the cloudiness... no worry new tank cycling, if you want, run a square of the white/blue fine filter & take it to the sink, rinse under tap water & shake dry a couple times a day, this will help clear.
Also if your not, run your Red Sea stock carbon, while cycling & after cycle, switch it out for some CPE & Purigen is what many do.
On the cloudiness... no worry new tank cycling, if you want, run a square of the white/blue fine filter & take it to the sink, rinse under tap water & shake dry a couple times a day, this will help clear.
Also if your not, run your Red Sea stock carbon, while cycling & after cycle, switch it out for some CPE & Purigen is what many do.
So it's day 6 using the RS Reef Mature Kit and things are good so far. The ammonia levels are pretty high but they are stable. Still no diatoms yet. Not sure if it's because I used dry live rock as opposed to wet though. The water is crystal clear and the temps finally stabilized so that's a plus.
Yeah the skimmer instructions aren't too user-friendly. I think I've gotten mine down as good as its going to get without a bioload just by tinkering with it.
I did a 5% water change today as per the red sea instructions. Here's the issue that I had and maybe this is normal for a bit but the salinity in the tank was 1.025 and the water I made was 1.025. When I changed out the water the salinity dropped to about 1.021~. Is this normal? Also what's the best way to bring it back up?
I did a 5% water change today as per the red sea instructions. Here's the issue that I had and maybe this is normal for a bit but the salinity in the tank was 1.025 and the water I made was 1.025. When I changed out the water the salinity dropped to about 1.021~. Is this normal? Also what's the best way to bring it back up?
Pat24601
Well-Known Member
If you did a 5% water change with water the same salinity as your tank water, I think your salinity shouldn't have dropped at all. I wouldn't do anything to fix the 1.021 reading until you are sure it is accurate. Personally, I suspect your reading is off, not your water. With only a 5% water change, I really think it would be hard to get your salinity to drop much at all. That's a big drop...
What type of tool are you using to measure? If one of the hydrometers, could it have had a bubble or something?
I was using a refractometer. I checked the salinity again this morning and it was back to normal. The only thing I can think of was that maybe it was because I added the new water directly to the sump and checked shortly thereafter from the display. Either way it's back to 1.025 now so I'm happy.
Pat24601
Well-Known Member
Glad it worked out. We will call it one of life's mysteries.
There is a lesson there, though, that I and many others have learned the hard way. If you have a reading that doesn't make sense, take your time and retest (which is exactly what you did). I have seen newer people on these forums mess up their tanks dosing something they shouldn't and what was really going on was their test was wrong for whatever reason (out of date kit etc).
A refractometer is a very accurate way to measure. So, who knows what happened. Maybe too much rodi in the sample.
Regardless, working is happiness! Glad to hear it's all good.
There is a lesson there, though, that I and many others have learned the hard way. If you have a reading that doesn't make sense, take your time and retest (which is exactly what you did). I have seen newer people on these forums mess up their tanks dosing something they shouldn't and what was really going on was their test was wrong for whatever reason (out of date kit etc).
A refractometer is a very accurate way to measure. So, who knows what happened. Maybe too much rodi in the sample.
Regardless, working is happiness! Glad to hear it's all good.
TEA
Active Member
We started our tanks at around the same time. I filled mine for the first time on 7 March. From your picture we are at about the same stage. My diatoms are starting to cover the rock, sand, and glass. My ammonia has been at .50 for four days though I have added additional ammonia sources (I use frozen silverside fish we use to treat our crab tank). I have registered 0 for nitrites and nitrates. I was curious to see if you had similar readings. I'm thinking my live sand must be attributing to the fact that I'm not seeing nitrites and nitrates like I think I should.
So I'm on Day 21 right now and while I still have some diatom bloom going on I now have some dark green algae spots forming. I guess that's just more food for the CUC when I get them. Here's the odd thing that I wanted to check with anyone to see if they experience. My ammonia levels are just above where they should be and my nitrates are coming down so that's good. What's odd though is that my nitrites are still through the roof. I thought that nitrites were supposed to decrease first then the nitrate levels would rise and fall. If anyone has an opinion or thoughts on this please let me know. As it stands I'm going to do a 10% water change either today or tomorrow but I may hold off depending on what people think.
ammonia converts to nitrites, the nitrites convert to nitrates - then do water changes to reduce the nitrates - tank cycled - add a cuc, 1st fish or pair, 1st coral - then wait a month before adding more fish - is how many proceed
the nitrates can convert & go down over a long period of time... but most everyone exports them & start up their tank - then controls them with water changes & others means...
the nitrates can convert & go down over a long period of time... but most everyone exports them & start up their tank - then controls them with water changes & others means...