My 29 gallon QT/Hospital Tank

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
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How I cycled my hospital tank:

Just a few details on the cycling method I am using on my hospital tank.

seahorse.org - Cycling a Marine Tank

I also add thawed mush along with pure ammonia per Leebca's suggestion. Doing that will cycle the thousand other types of bacteria :)

Cycling with the ammonia method

Another method of cycling a tank that is increasing in popularity, is using 100% pure household ammonia. Instead of utilizing ammonia-producing organisms to start the cycling process, the ammonia method involves directly adding bottled ammonia along with a starter culture of bacteria.
The ammonia must be clear, unscented, 100% pure, and with no additives. However, you may find typical household ammonia to be mostly water with an actual strength of only 5–10%. Since the concentration may vary, you will need to experiment a little to find the right amount needed to cycle your tank.
When using the ammonia method, the necessary bacteria can be introduced to your system a couple of different ways. If you have access to an established and healthy tank, obtain a small amount of sand or gravel or even used filter media. This can then be placed in the tank to be cycled and will provide a starter culture of bacteria. Another option is to use a commercial preparation of bacteria, such as Hagen's Cycle, to introduce the nitrifying microbes.
After the tank has been set up and the bacteria have been introduced, begin to add the ammonia. If the tank is on the smaller side, start with only a couple of drops. Let it circulate in the water for a short time, and then test for ammonia. You want to raise the ammonia level to about 1–2 PPM Continue adding drops of ammonia and testing, while keeping track of how many drops total it takes to get to 1–2 PPM
Once you've reached the desired level, you now need to wait for the bacteria to multiply and do their job. It may take several days to a couple of weeks for your ammonia test to register zero. Once it does, add the same number of drops of ammonia again. Keep repeating this many times, each time waiting until ammonia reads zero, until finally the ammonia test goes to zero within 8–12 hours of the addition of ammonia.
When the tank is able to clear the ammonia within this time frame, that means that there are large numbers of bacteria present. At this time, test for nitrites. If nitrites are present, perform 3v4 more ammonia cycles to further establish the second group of bacteria. If the nitrite test reads zero, perform a very large water change and then you can begin slowly stocking your tank.
It's been suggested that elevating the temperature of the tank to the mid-80s F during cycling with the ammonia method can have beneficial effects. Just make sure that there are no animals in the tank being subjected to this temperature extreme (and ammonia), and also make sure to lower the temperature again prior to stocking.
Also, tanks with low alkalinity may experience pH spikes with the addition of household ammonia. These spikes may also hinder the growth of the necessary bacteria. To counteract the problem, use a good buffering product prior to cycling with ammonia, and perform a large water change after cycling (prior to stocking) to get pH levels back on track.

The ammonia cycles from 2.0 ppm to zero in 8 hours and the nitrItes are close behind. During the last few weeks, I have probably created about 6 or 7 'mini cycles' by adding ammonia; meanwhile waiting for my nitrItes to reach zero. The nitrAtes are of course off the chart but a 90% water change will remedy that.

I expect I will begin moving my fishes into it in the next day or so!
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
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Slowly adding fish...

I had to do 7 huge (50-90%) water changes to get the nitrAtes down under 20 ppm. After cycling it SOOOO many times, the trAtes were OFF the charts :eek:
Good thing I purchased TWO buckets of salt :thumbup:

Update: I've been slowly adding fish to the hospital tank every 12 hours; alleni damsel, citron goby, both neon gobies, copperband butterfly, pair of picasso clowns are all in and appear okay. If the ammonia remains zero, te achilles tang will be added either tonight or tomorrow morning.

I test around 6:30 am and again at 6:30 pm for ammonia, nitrIte, nitrAte... and every few days I test the alkalinity and keep it at 10 dkh.

This mornings testing:
Ammonia = zero
NitrIte = zero
PH = 8.08
NitrAtes= less than 20ppm
 

Gina

Moderator
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Re: Slowly adding fish...

I had to do 7 huge (50-90%) water changes to get the nitrAtes down under 20 ppm. After cycling it SOOOO many times, the trAtes were OFF the charts :eek:
Good thing I purchased TWO buckets of salt :thumbup:

:eek: Nice quarantine tank! Do you prefer using this way of cycling?
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
RS STAFF
Re: Slowly adding fish...

:eek: Nice quarantine tank! Do you prefer using this way of cycling?

I think so. It allows for many cycles each time you add ammonia. I am VERY confident that there are a LOT of bacteria just waiting to do their job :)
 

Woodstock

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All Aboard!!

All fish in and accounted for.

I will begin the copper treatment tomorrow evening if the water parameters are good.

They will be able to return to the reef Christmas Eve! That will be a full 8 weeks of fallowness ;)
 

Woodstock

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All is well in my hospital tank so far. For the last few days I have been getting the copper up to .5 ppm. Although the tank is barebottom and there is no substrate, the copper level has been slowly dropping during the day.

I test the hospital tank at LEAST 3 times (6am, 6pm, 10pm) for the following to make sure the water is good:
Ammonia
NitrIte
NitrAte
Copper

Alkalinity is tested every few days.
Constant PH readings with a Reefkeeper 2
Constant temperature readings of 79.3 - 80.1

I have had a horrible time finding a Seachem copper test kit that works. I went to two different lfs but bot kits showed zero with the test solution :(
I am currently using the API copper test kit and will be ordering Salifert as a backup today!

The achilles tang seems the most sensitive to the copper; he darts around when I add copper (from .25 - .5ppm). The achilles and the copperband butterfly have stopped eating but the other fish (damsel, citron goby, 2xneon gobies, 2xclownfish) are acting and eating as normal.
 

Woodstock

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Picture time!

Click photo for a slideshow...


Everyone is doing okay. The larger fish have been much slower to relax than the smaller ones but they all are finally chilling out. The PVC is working out GREAT! They all have their favorite 'hiding spot'.
 

Woodstock

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Thanks for the encouragement Allen :)

BTW... Seachem is sending me new reagents for their copper test kit :thumbup: I will then have two (seachem and API) to test against each other!
 

cracker

Well-Known Member
Miss Donnie You have the coolest fish, What type of clowns & whats the kinda peach colored fish with the big head & blue stripes thru the eye? The slide show was nice.Thanks.
 

Woodstock

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Glad you liked it :)
The clowns are ORA bred "picasso" percula clowns and the cute peach colored fish is a citron goby.
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
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All is well! :thumbup:
The copper is staying right at .5 ppm now with no adjustments needed (except for water changes). Copper additions were only needed during the first few days but have leveled off now.
The larger fish seem to be adapting and are even picking at food now. The CBB is eating a bit of homemade mush and the achilles is eating the diatom algae off of the PVC (still will not eat nori or mush yet) but seems more relaxed and is not 'pacing' the glass.
The smaller fish are all little piglets and have their favorite dens ;)
No sign of ich :dance:
 

Woodstock

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Thanks Gina :) Me too!
I am very nervous about all 'my eggs being in one basket'. I feel like a paranoid mother hen taking care of them ;)
 

Woodstock

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Today is the last day of the 14 day Cupramine treatment!
Tomorrow morning I will begin removing the copper from the system :snshne:
All fish are doing fine :thumbup:
 
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