Max C-250 - T5 to LED Conversion

Roy Page

Active Member
After a lot of reading and thinking, I have decided to swap out the T5 lights for an LED system.
I really want a system that can be installed quickly and include a new controller that can fit in the hood in a workmanlike manner.
I don't want wires draped around the hood and a controller which is positioned in some hidden and hard to program spot.

I have downloaded the instructions for a complete system from "Steve's LED's" and I am totally unimpressed.
Only a couple of poor photos, no diagrams, just endless worded instructions not giving a clear idea of what you are getting, where it fits or what the finished result looks like.

Does a real high quality, well engineered, Max C-250 LED conversion kit exist?
 

mike1970

Active Member
Here's the abridged steps within that manual for the 99% Completed version:
1) Take apart hood - ~5 min

2) Remove all existing wiring ~3 min

3) Place LED heat sinks in the hood where the T5 bulbs were ~1 min

4) Use a tiny 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit and drill through the existing screw holes on the heatsinks and drill through the reflector. ~ 1 min

5) Use the included 4 screws, to secure each heatsink. 2 phillips head screws per heatsink, finger tight. ~2 min

6) Run included power extension cable through the existing hole on the hood where the old power cable was. May need to use a pocket knife to enlargen the hole very slightly to pass the connectors ~ 2 min

7) Plug one end of that power extension cable to each of the LED heatsinks and the other end to the main power supply that sits conveniently in the aquarium stand. ~1min

8) Wire up any accessories like the Bluefish (~2 min) or Typhon (30 seconds). Then route these cables

9) Double check all connections

10) Test the system to make sure it all works and comes to life. ~1min

11) Button the hood back up together. ~10 min
 

StevesLEDs

RS Sponsor
Roy,
Thanks for the feedback. Once completely installed, you'll only have a single cable coming out the back (unless you use the LED controller, then it will be 2 cables. Everything else is 100% stock. Our LED system is the highest quality on the market, as well as the brightest, and most proven to grow corals at amazing speeds.

The main heatsink that has all the LEDs on it will sit in the same area as the existing lights do, mounted using 4 screws and designed to be simple and straightforward.

It takes about an hour or so for most people to install it, with the bulk of the time spend getting the hood apart and taking out the existing wiring.

All of our LED systems are comprehensive and include 100% of the components needed to get the LED system up and running, the only thing missing are a couple basic hand tools such as a screwdriver and wire cutters.

Please let me know if you have any other questions, and I'll be glad to walk you through any portion of it.

Jeff
 

Roy Page

Active Member
Roy,
Thanks for the feedback. Once completely installed, you'll only have a single cable coming out the back (unless you use the LED controller, then it will be 2 cables. Everything else is 100% stock. Our LED system is the highest quality on the market, as well as the brightest, and most proven to grow corals at amazing speeds.

The main heatsink that has all the LEDs on it will sit in the same area as the existing lights do, mounted using 4 screws and designed to be simple and straightforward.

It takes about an hour or so for most people to install it, with the bulk of the time spend getting the hood apart and taking out the existing wiring.

All of our LED systems are comprehensive and include 100% of the components needed to get the LED system up and running, the only thing missing are a couple basic hand tools such as a screwdriver and wire cutters.

Please let me know if you have any other questions, and I'll be glad to walk you through any portion of it.

Jeff
Jeff thanks,

I am sure the product is good or maybe the best, but you are missing the main point.

What is needed, is carefully drawn Diagrams and Photographs, not an endless stream of words which need parts to be correctly identified.and each paragraphs interpreted to find the correct meaning or intention.

Is it not possible to produce some decent instructions with Diagrams and Photos laid out in the correct order? With good instructions, most who can handle simple DIY tools can follow and do the conversion painlessly?

Sorry, to be so outspoken...............
 

StevesLEDs

RS Sponsor
Roy,

I really appreciate your feedback, you can't step on my toes hard enough to be considered outspoken. How can we improve without feedback such as yours?

We are in the process of improving all of our manuals, and I agree completely with you, diagrams are critical. We are making a series of animated GIFs, showing each step of the installation process, walking the installer through each step. This is a very time consuming process, but will be worth it when it is finalized. We have an ETA of 8/1/15 to get the newest install guide published, and it will definitely be comprehensive.

Thanks!
Jeff
 

StevesLEDs

RS Sponsor
On a side note, I did a hood install on a RSM250 this morning, and I was trying to figure out why the install guide seemed so complicated. Whenever I finish an install, I'm always surprised at how easy it was. There is a bit of busy-work, like turning a screwdriver, but ultimately, it is just a few screws and routing a cable or two. I think the most difficult part is getting the screw covers off of the hood to begin taking the hood apart. I'm going to be 100% certain that we have an extremely detailed procedure for this, along with a video and how to find a proper tool to do it.

Jeff
 

Roy Page

Active Member
Here's the abridged steps within that manual for the 99% Completed version:
1) Take apart hood - ~5 min

2) Remove all existing wiring ~3 min

3) Place LED heat sinks in the hood where the T5 bulbs were ~1 min

4) Use a tiny 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit and drill through the existing screw holes on the heatsinks and drill through the reflector. ~ 1 min

5) Use the included 4 screws, to secure each heatsink. 2 phillips head screws per heatsink, finger tight. ~2 min

6) Run included power extension cable through the existing hole on the hood where the old power cable was. May need to use a pocket knife to enlargen the hole very slightly to pass the connectors ~ 2 min

7) Plug one end of that power extension cable to each of the LED heatsinks and the other end to the main power supply that sits conveniently in the aquarium stand. ~1min

8) Wire up any accessories like the Bluefish (~2 min) or Typhon (30 seconds). Then route these cables

9) Double check all connections

10) Test the system to make sure it all works and comes to life. ~1min

11) Button the hood back up together. ~10 min

Thanks Mike,

I downloaded the complete instructions as indicated in my initial post which caused me to start this thread.

Of course, as an Engineer I can do most anything but without Diagrams accompanied with Photos, there is the problem of interpreting the words, the parts, and scope to make mistakes which may ruin the kit, the hood and leave me as an unsatisfied customer.

Same problem with the website, only a few very small photos and a stream of endless words rather than clear photos with information showing what you are actually buying.
 

Roy Page

Active Member
On a side note, I did a hood install on a RSM250 this morning, and I was trying to figure out why the install guide seemed so complicated. Whenever I finish an install, I'm always surprised at how easy it was. There is a bit of busy-work, like turning a screwdriver, but ultimately, it is just a few screws and routing a cable or two. I think the most difficult part is getting the screw covers off of the hood to begin taking the hood apart. I'm going to be 100% certain that we have an extremely detailed procedure for this, along with a video and how to find a proper tool to do it.

Jeff

Jeff, All I can say is I hope you took some "stage by stage" photos so you can include them in the instructions?
 

Roy Page

Active Member
Thanks Mike,

I downloaded the complete instructions as indicated in my initial post which caused me to start this thread.

Of course, as an Engineer I can do most anything but without Diagrams accompanied with Photos, there is the problem of interpreting the words, the parts, and scope to make mistakes which may ruin the kit, the hood and leave me as an unsatisfied customer.

Same problem with the website, only a few very small photos and a stream of endless words rather than clear photos with information showing what you are actually buying.

Jeff,

Why don't you do a Hood Core Exchange for the RS 250/C-250.
Convert the hood, ship it out and the buyer ships his old hood back to you [in your shipping box] to be converted for the next buyer.
I do a Core Exchange for customers at the company I own.
Here is a link >>> http://www.turnermachineco.com/core-exchange-straightener-heads.php

If you want a lead customer, he is sitting in my chair right now :)
 

Pat24601

Well-Known Member
After a lot of reading and thinking, I have decided to swap out the T5 lights for an LED system.
I really want a system that can be installed quickly and include a new controller that can fit in the hood in a workmanlike manner.
I don't want wires draped around the hood and a controller which is positioned in some hidden and hard to program spot.

I have downloaded the instructions for a complete system from "Steve's LED's" and I am totally unimpressed.
Only a couple of poor photos, no diagrams, just endless worded instructions not giving a clear idea of what you are getting, where it fits or what the finished result looks like.

Does a real high quality, well engineered, Max C-250 LED conversion kit exist?

To answer your original question, I did not find any conversion kit that had any cleaner instructions than Steves and I searched pretty hard. Remember this was before we had them on this forum and with Greg MIA, I had no expectation that anyone would help me if I got in trouble. I'm not a DIY guy so I strongly wanted an easy kit with crystal clear instructions. Heck, I don't think I had drilled a hole in years. I'm not PaulB. :)

Steves was, by far, the best I found or I would have done something else in a heartbeat. I had no loyalty to them as I didn't know them at all.

I'm not saying there isn't another option out there, but I didn't find it. DIY LED guys can figure lots of other options out, I'm sure. But, that's not me.

So, for better or worse, I think that's the reality of the situation.

Now, they have made dramatic improvements to the instructions and are looking to do more visually. So, I think they recognize the desire to improve that, which is good.

The better news is it really is a very simple, contained install. It's just explaining that well that isn't easy. I think it's also harder for them because it's so second nature they don't realize what's confusing until folks like us tell them.

I think a Roy Page video on how to do an install would be great, but keep in mind they offer these retrofits for lots of different systems. So, it may not be easy to do and cover the many variations that exist. Still, I think they are trying to do something like that.
 
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Danreef

Well-Known Member
I have though many times on these LEDs, but lack of time, in case I run in an issue, have been keeping me away of them.

I belive it is an aging problem :-( , when younger I was used to accept challenges. But now, I have too many challenges at work and too much travel. With only a weekend time to install them, I will not risk to do it.

It has to be a plug and play.

Why Steve do not have a system that you just attach the LEDS strips to the hood in replacement of the T5, all interconnected and you just plug them. Like the Ecoxotic or TrueLumen strips. My 14 G biocube has been modified in that way.

Just a comment

Daniel
 
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Roy Page

Active Member
It has to be a plug and play.

Why Steve do not have a system that you just attach the LEDS strips to the hood in replacement of the T5, all interconnected and you just plug them. Like the Economic or TrueLumen strips. My 14 G biocube has been modified in that way.

Just a comment

Daniel

Exactly Dan,
It has to be Plug & Play, or in this case Unplug, Plugin & Play.
I have given these guys an excellent solution, to do a Hood Core Exchange. So easy for them to do and they would double sales to RS 130/250 owners.

Just wish I had the time to offer this, at least I know how to write concise instructions with clear Diagrams & Photos :)
 

StevesLEDs

RS Sponsor
Thanks for the recommendations and feedback guys, I'm taking notes. Improved website, youtube videos, easier to install LED fixtures, andbetter install guides and instructions.

We have 2 full time guys working on a brand new website. More simple, straightforward, and way more pictures and less text. Hence the new photo contest - http://reefsanctuary.com/forum/index.php?threads/photo-contest-with-prizes.95073/

We also have a brand new $30,000 plasma cutting table and metalworking equipment so we will be selling new completed fixtures (moving on up!). Take them out of the box, put them over your aquarium, plug them in, and enjoy. We are even working on designing a drop in upgrade for the RSM250, where you strip the hood of electronics, put the new fixture-box in (1 cable), and close up the hood - designed to be as simple and convenient as possible.

These new fixtures (including fixtures for the new RSM Reefer series) will be released with the new website in about 2 weeks from now.

We have considered the core exchange idea and tried it out once. There was a very small scratch on the top of a customer's hood who returned it as a core exchange, and the customer who purchased it returned it due to that hairline scratch (something that could have been done with a fingernail). We had to purchase a new hood for him, and it was a dismal failure - but at least we tried that option.

Any other thoughts or ideas? Keep them coming.

Jeff
 

snappa53

Member
Thanks for the recommendations and feedback guys, I'm taking notes. Improved website, youtube videos, easier to install LED fixtures, andbetter install guides and instructions.

We have 2 full time guys working on a brand new website. More simple, straightforward, and way more pictures and less text. Hence the new photo contest - http://reefsanctuary.com/forum/index.php?threads/photo-contest-with-prizes.95073/

We also have a brand new $30,000 plasma cutting table and metalworking equipment so we will be selling new completed fixtures (moving on up!). Take them out of the box, put them over your aquarium, plug them in, and enjoy. We are even working on designing a drop in upgrade for the RSM250, where you strip the hood of electronics, put the new fixture-box in (1 cable), and close up the hood - designed to be as simple and convenient as possible.

These new fixtures (including fixtures for the new RSM Reefer series) will be released with the new website in about 2 weeks from now.

We have considered the core exchange idea and tried it out once. There was a very small scratch on the top of a customer's hood who returned it as a core exchange, and the customer who purchased it returned it due to that hairline scratch (something that could have been done with a fingernail). We had to purchase a new hood for him, and it was a dismal failure - but at least we tried that option.

Any other thoughts or ideas? Keep them coming.

Jeff
What options do you have in the pipeline for a 650 Jeff?
 

StevesLEDs

RS Sponsor
What options do you have in the pipeline for a 650 Jeff?

We have an awesome retrofit that fits in the RSM650, in the center section. It is such a tight fit, we don't have any further improvements for the current LED upgrade. It is much brighter than the stock lighting and is relatively easy to install. It is significantly easier to install than the RSM250.

http://shop.stevesleds.com/Red-Sea-Max-S-Series-650-Extreme-SPS-8794102492.htm

I'll be glad to answer any questions that you may have.

Thanks!
Jeff
 

CDMSeaLife

Active Member
Jeff thanks,

I am sure the product is good or maybe the best, but you are missing the main point.

What is needed, is carefully drawn Diagrams and Photographs, not an endless stream of words which need parts to be correctly identified.and each paragraphs interpreted to find the correct meaning or intention.

Is it not possible to produce some decent instructions with Diagrams and Photos laid out in the correct order? With good instructions, most who can handle simple DIY tools can follow and do the conversion painlessly?

Sorry, to be so outspoken...............
Totally agree and I have experience with Steves LEDs with a previous aquarium. They are definitely not plug n play.
 
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StevesLEDs

RS Sponsor
The LED systems are indeed Plug and Play if you order the 99% Completed system. Take it out of the box, lay it on a table, plug in the 1 or two cables, then plug the system into the wall and the LED system is fully functional.

Installing the LED system in a hood can add more steps to the process. Every hood is different, and out of all the ways it can be done, we have selected the most simple way possible, and are always continuing to improve that process.

Thanks,
Jeff
 

Adrienne

Well-Known Member
I feel that there may be hope for me yet after reading this. I want LED but I need something like Roys Youtube video tank set up to be done, in order for it to happen. Swapping out is not an option for me though.
 
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