Pat24601
Well-Known Member
Cool. Let us know how it goes!
Marine Ich : Treatment Alternatives
- Thread starter Pat24601
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Cool. Let us know how it goes!
Uncle99
Well-Known Member
I am lucky only to have had 1 case of Ick in my 25 years, but it was about 8 ish months ago. No idea where it came from as I am very careful, but it got it. One of my darwins got it immediately and died within 7 days.
So I did a lot of research and came across thus Hypo thing.
The theory of Hypo is the parasite needs salt water to survive and if placed into a more fresh water mix, they would keep consuming water until they explode, thus killing the parasite. Kinda like a fresh water dip, but for Ick.
To be quite honest I just followed the prescribed reduction to 1.009, kept the water fresh with 1.009 replacement of 10% per day and in 7 days the spots were gone. I went another 7 with half strength cupramine, then 7 more days bringing the salt ppt up .002 per day until back to 1.026 where we started.
Saved a clown, a gramma, and a lawnmower which are back in the DT for about 7 months now.
I did not find it that hard at all, once I found the measure that made 1.009 water, it seemed quite easy. I nit iced the fish started eating again around day 4, then missed a day a few times, but by day 8 eating and swimming well.
It sometimes hard to say what is right...and what might be some luck.
Cupramine is the tried and true method which has been used forever. It kills the parasite and everything else as well, and if you use to much, the fish as well
Hypo, only seems to kill the parasite, and because the salt is so low, resipation is easier for the fish in this weakened state, thus less stress
I am assuming that I must have been close to 1.009, however not sure how close....could have been .008 to .010.....
Many using hypo use on tangs and delicates, whereas copper for the hardies....
I my readings, each person has their own opinion........
So I did a lot of research and came across thus Hypo thing.
The theory of Hypo is the parasite needs salt water to survive and if placed into a more fresh water mix, they would keep consuming water until they explode, thus killing the parasite. Kinda like a fresh water dip, but for Ick.
To be quite honest I just followed the prescribed reduction to 1.009, kept the water fresh with 1.009 replacement of 10% per day and in 7 days the spots were gone. I went another 7 with half strength cupramine, then 7 more days bringing the salt ppt up .002 per day until back to 1.026 where we started.
Saved a clown, a gramma, and a lawnmower which are back in the DT for about 7 months now.
I did not find it that hard at all, once I found the measure that made 1.009 water, it seemed quite easy. I nit iced the fish started eating again around day 4, then missed a day a few times, but by day 8 eating and swimming well.
It sometimes hard to say what is right...and what might be some luck.
Cupramine is the tried and true method which has been used forever. It kills the parasite and everything else as well, and if you use to much, the fish as well
Hypo, only seems to kill the parasite, and because the salt is so low, resipation is easier for the fish in this weakened state, thus less stress
I am assuming that I must have been close to 1.009, however not sure how close....could have been .008 to .010.....
Many using hypo use on tangs and delicates, whereas copper for the hardies....
I my readings, each person has their own opinion........
Pat24601
Well-Known Member
This sounds solid, thanks!
This "old time geezer" method, heat, works very will for the FW version of the disease, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. The SW version of the disease is Cryptocaryon irritans, something entirely different. Personally, I have tried it on SW fish, and heat will make it mature faster, but it would not kill the parasites. Copper, even way back then, was and is effective, but you sure don't want to use it on any tank with corals or inverts in it.
Last edited:
kami808
New Member
24hr update.
Sg : 1.0008 , temp: 78f .
Hermit crabs and sallylight foot crab looks like there doing fine . I though they would all be dead . Fishes eating well . Ich still the same . Using only a hang on back filter with carbon. Doing water check frequently and water changes as needed using paragaurd . So far so good.
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Sg : 1.0008 , temp: 78f .
Hermit crabs and sallylight foot crab looks like there doing fine . I though they would all be dead . Fishes eating well . Ich still the same . Using only a hang on back filter with carbon. Doing water check frequently and water changes as needed using paragaurd . So far so good.
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Pat24601
Well-Known Member
kami808
New Member
I have cupramine and a uv sterilzer coming in this week. Should I also use them with hypo ?Thanks for the update.
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Pat24601
Well-Known Member
It’s strongly recommended you do either cupramine OR hypo, but don’t do both at the same time. The problem is that cupramine can have a higher toxicity in a hypo environment.
Now, I think @Uncle99 mixed in both somewhere, but he’s a highly experienced saltwater guy. I wouldn’t do it.
Plus, one of the reasons to do hypo instead of copper is because it’s easier on the fish than copper.
I don’t see how a UV sterilizer would hurt, but it shouldn’t be necessary.
kami808
New Member
Thank you very much ! [emoji4]It’s strongly recommended you do either cupramine OR hypo, but don’t do both at the same time. The problem is that cupramine can have a higher toxicity in a hypo environment.
Plus, one of the reasons to do hypo instead of copper is because it’s easier on the fish than copper.
I don’t see how a UV sterilizer would hurt, but it shouldn’t be necessary.
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Uncle99
Well-Known Member
Good luck!
Feeding is essential, twice per day if you can.
I feed frozen brine shrimp with a syringe and a piece of rigid airline tube on the end, a squeeze out 1 piece at a time so not to foul my QT wAter too quick, I change about 10% at 1.009 every two days to keep it fresh.
Feeding is essential, twice per day if you can.
I feed frozen brine shrimp with a syringe and a piece of rigid airline tube on the end, a squeeze out 1 piece at a time so not to foul my QT wAter too quick, I change about 10% at 1.009 every two days to keep it fresh.
Uncle99
Well-Known Member
Yup, I would go with one or the other not both.
When using both, I tried to compensate for toxicity by using only half the manufactures recommended dosage for saltwater, as the hypo is more like plain water than salt.
The problem with both, is like Paul says and also, now I don't know which one worked better, and maybe just a bit lucky...
When using both, I tried to compensate for toxicity by using only half the manufactures recommended dosage for saltwater, as the hypo is more like plain water than salt.
The problem with both, is like Paul says and also, now I don't know which one worked better, and maybe just a bit lucky...
Pat24601
Well-Known Member
It usually takes 3 - 8 days for all the white drops to "drop off" assuming your treatment is killing the free swimming stage.
So, things tend to clear up pretty fast. But, be sure to continue to follow the hypo procedure for the full treatment cycle anyway. Want to make sure all the cysts are taken care of.
Everyone eating well is the really big deal.
kami808
New Member
Pat24601
Well-Known Member
So raise the temperature to 212 degrees, I bet that does it.
I’m fairly sure Fahrenheit 451 would do it.
Hyposalinity works well for SE ich. It doesn't work on velvet, so for that you use copper in some form.
Velvet sometimes makes the fish look like it's covered in yellow dust. That's why it is sometimes called gold dust disease. It is a really terrible infection to have, and you must move on it quickly. More that a few people have has almost total losses because of a velvet.
Velvet sometimes makes the fish look like it's covered in yellow dust. That's why it is sometimes called gold dust disease. It is a really terrible infection to have, and you must move on it quickly. More that a few people have has almost total losses because of a velvet.