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Josh's SuperReef 65
- Thread starter StirCrayzy
- Start date
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
This is as far as im willing to go before getting the tank and stand.
90 degree variation of the standard target, to save 4 inches of space behind the tank.
I want it as tight to the wall as possible.
90 degree variation of the standard target, to save 4 inches of space behind the tank.
I want it as tight to the wall as possible.
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
So, i should be working, but keep pondering my under tank logistics.
plan to be in my crawlspace to run new 20a line to the tank, and a 1/4"RODI hose.
now im thinking ... since my bathtub drain is only 6' from the tank...
, should i put a drain line up through the floor right behind the tank, and dump it right into that tub line.
How kickass to be forever rid of bucket dragging!
plan to be in my crawlspace to run new 20a line to the tank, and a 1/4"RODI hose.
now im thinking ... since my bathtub drain is only 6' from the tank...
, should i put a drain line up through the floor right behind the tank, and dump it right into that tub line.
How kickass to be forever rid of bucket dragging!
sk8rdn
Has been struck by the ban stick
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
Been scroungin craigslist for a 36"L 90g to no avail. Looks like im gonna be stuck with the original planned 65.
Tryin to decide whether to buy 65 now or wait in hope a 90g will pop up.
Still pondering how to get elect, RO, Drain so close together.
There must be some building code to try an stop me.
Tryin to decide whether to buy 65 now or wait in hope a 90g will pop up.
Still pondering how to get elect, RO, Drain so close together.
There must be some building code to try an stop me.
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
One thing thats great about a tank build coupled with home improvements is i get to spend $$ on the tank and it gets buried in the $1000 Lowes bill!
Home improvements are also a good excuse to get new tools.
Home improvements are also a good excuse to get new tools.
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
Now that i think about it... i dont really want to add up the costs anyway. Ignorance is bliss.
Even though im on a budget, as long as the kids have food ....
Even though im on a budget, as long as the kids have food ....
BLADEYAMAHA
Well-Known Member
I'm definitely not trying to be a jerk here Josh, cause you have been so cool to me. It is a very cool sump, I just don't get the point of how it works. My sump/refugium flows from one end to the other. I just don't get how yours works. Maybe I have not seen enough action I suppose. Definitely awesome work you have done.
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
No probs. hard for me to transfer whats in my head to yall with only a half complete setup to take pics of.
Im kinda stuck at the point of pic below until i get tank and stand.
Basically the drains dump in the left side along the wall, then flow up to the sock shelf and down through the socks.
over then under to center return.
my ATS is the old waterfall style and will require less than 50 gph for max efficiency.
By splitting off the main full siphon drain i can dial it back with a ball valve to get it just right.
the ATS then dumps straight down into the fuge which will be loaded with LR.
Depending on fuge response i can add or remove flow independant of pump output, which is why i chose a center return style.
Then the fuge goes over-under to return.
Im kinda stuck at the point of pic below until i get tank and stand.
Basically the drains dump in the left side along the wall, then flow up to the sock shelf and down through the socks.
over then under to center return.
my ATS is the old waterfall style and will require less than 50 gph for max efficiency.
By splitting off the main full siphon drain i can dial it back with a ball valve to get it just right.
the ATS then dumps straight down into the fuge which will be loaded with LR.
Depending on fuge response i can add or remove flow independant of pump output, which is why i chose a center return style.
Then the fuge goes over-under to return.
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Cant wait til im done with wife projects so i can make some progress on this.
BLADEYAMAHA
Well-Known Member
Oh, now I completely understand, I was totally lost at first.
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
Trying to map out LEDs and im pretty well convinced to build around my existing 2x24" T5HO.
using T5's for actinic then a 4:1 white/blue mix with a couple cyan and couple UVs.
What im most curious is about is whether its safe to mix 5w and 3w bulbs on a single driver.???
using T5's for actinic then a 4:1 white/blue mix with a couple cyan and couple UVs.
What im most curious is about is whether its safe to mix 5w and 3w bulbs on a single driver.???
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
Heres the initial 1:1 layout. Making from 1" alum tubing, forced air cooling.
Also i will be Using 2x24"T5s in the middle. 30"L x 15"w. Tank is 36x18x24d 65g.
All will be 3w except XP-G premium 5w whites down the middle.
Driver #1- 8 supplemental royal blues around the outside where T5 wont cover.
- 2 UV mid center
- 2 Cyan mid rear
Driver#2 - 12 cool whites scattered around precisely
Driver#3 - 6-8 5w XP-Gs not sure if i can run 8 on a driver? ??
Spaced evenly across the frt and rear mid braces.
That should get me in the ballpark for pricing, then i can start acquiring components.
Thoughts opinions always welcome.
Also i will be Using 2x24"T5s in the middle. 30"L x 15"w. Tank is 36x18x24d 65g.
All will be 3w except XP-G premium 5w whites down the middle.
Driver #1- 8 supplemental royal blues around the outside where T5 wont cover.
- 2 UV mid center
- 2 Cyan mid rear
Driver#2 - 12 cool whites scattered around precisely
Driver#3 - 6-8 5w XP-Gs not sure if i can run 8 on a driver? ??
Spaced evenly across the frt and rear mid braces.
That should get me in the ballpark for pricing, then i can start acquiring components.
Thoughts opinions always welcome.
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
Quick update with pics to follow...
I have not been derailed, but christmas has sidelined my tank spending.
Just received my Christmas present from RapidLED.
the heart of the setup will be my old 30" T5HO 2x34. Along with 8 CW XMLs. 10 RB XTEs. ... more detail upcoming, Along with a layout and step by step.
So far ive just finished wiring the DIY 2color dimming kit.
Starting work on the light structure next week, hope to get tank next and be wet by easter. :fingerx:
Its exciting and overwhelming all at once. I lay awake in bed sometimes routing and connecting all the wiring. Once that gets done ill rest easy, but i need the stand, canopy, and tank still, so wiring can only get as far as generic disconnects until then.
Any thoughts , pros/cons, of putting connectors on everything?
My thought is that if something goes wrong i dont want to be soldering wires under the tank to fix it.
so far ive got all weatherproof connections to quickly attach 3 drivers to the LED fixtures and to. thedimmer box.
I have not been derailed, but christmas has sidelined my tank spending.
Just received my Christmas present from RapidLED.
the heart of the setup will be my old 30" T5HO 2x34. Along with 8 CW XMLs. 10 RB XTEs. ... more detail upcoming, Along with a layout and step by step.
So far ive just finished wiring the DIY 2color dimming kit.
Starting work on the light structure next week, hope to get tank next and be wet by easter. :fingerx:
Its exciting and overwhelming all at once. I lay awake in bed sometimes routing and connecting all the wiring. Once that gets done ill rest easy, but i need the stand, canopy, and tank still, so wiring can only get as far as generic disconnects until then.
Any thoughts , pros/cons, of putting connectors on everything?
My thought is that if something goes wrong i dont want to be soldering wires under the tank to fix it.
so far ive got all weatherproof connections to quickly attach 3 drivers to the LED fixtures and to. thedimmer box.
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
Im pretty geeked this is a major step fwd in the upgrade plan.
Heres my goodies
Heres my goodies
StirCrayzy
Well-Known Member
Well ive got my ATS, Fuge and Sump basically done waiting on the stand to figure out plumbing and final wet routes.
Im done with the LIghting for those also, which comes off of my #3 driver @ 700ma pics below.
Still waiting to weld my DT Framework together, and attach the air cooling system. pics to come shortly i hope.
Here are the two sides of my Turf Scrubber lights, and the fuge light hangs off the side , wired in with it.
The connectors, allow me to switch the fuge light to either side of the ATS if necessary, you'll see why when i show the shot of ATS sitting on the sump.
Plus i want everything individually removable if there is a problem (or tweak/upgrade) with a component and not disable the entire system.
ATS will use 4 philips 660nm Reds (drilled and tapped to run 3 per side if needed), and the fuge has One each Warm white, Cool White, Royal Blue ( its really more of a Display Fuge ( DF?) Since it will be Sand, LR, and outflow from the ATS).
Lit UP !
Sump with ATS in place
Ready for H2O !
85 deg running temperature on 10 hr burn in. Not bad at all for NO fan.
Im done with the LIghting for those also, which comes off of my #3 driver @ 700ma pics below.
Still waiting to weld my DT Framework together, and attach the air cooling system. pics to come shortly i hope.
Here are the two sides of my Turf Scrubber lights, and the fuge light hangs off the side , wired in with it.
The connectors, allow me to switch the fuge light to either side of the ATS if necessary, you'll see why when i show the shot of ATS sitting on the sump.
Plus i want everything individually removable if there is a problem (or tweak/upgrade) with a component and not disable the entire system.
ATS will use 4 philips 660nm Reds (drilled and tapped to run 3 per side if needed), and the fuge has One each Warm white, Cool White, Royal Blue ( its really more of a Display Fuge ( DF?) Since it will be Sand, LR, and outflow from the ATS).
Lit UP !
Sump with ATS in place
Ready for H2O !
85 deg running temperature on 10 hr burn in. Not bad at all for NO fan.
If you run 5w and 3w led's on the same driver than the led's will only output what the driver is set for resulting in either 3w that are run to hot or 5w run at 3w power. Put the 5w on serperate drivers so you can run the 5w and 3w at the correct power, for example a driver that outputs the correct power for 3w leds will only run the led's at the 3w's output making the 5w's only as powerful as 3w and if you run the 3w and 5w together at the correct power for 5w then the 3w will be way overdriven and result in them burning out or a lifespan of 1 month or less. Def put em on seperate drivers to get the correct usage out of them. I personally like running a 6:3:3:1 ratio of royal blue:nuetral white:true/hyper violet:full spectrum colors. Check out these led's instead of running different colors for your full spectrum colors, , they are a tri-star with red/cyan/true blue when they are mixed like they are they appear white to eye but you still get the color pop from them that you typically want from the various colors. LED Aquarium Lights | Reef Tank Lighting | LED Group Buy is an awesome vendor and for the led's I was talking about there called ocean coral white and you can see them here: Ocean Coral White - LEDGroupBuy.com I'd say just go with your white/royal blue combo and some violets then slap some ocean coral whites in and you'll be setup for a full spectrum LED build, if you can I highly suggest swapping the cool whites out for nuetral whites.