Josh's SuperReef 65

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
For now i left the holes slightly larger than 4".
Disappointed i couldnt get full 90 degree bends on 1/4" polycarbonate.
Should i leave it on an angle keeping the sock tray flat, or start cutting and gluing?
probably going to move baffles over to right shrinking the fuge by an inch.
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StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
I left the angled PolyCarb alone except chopped off an inch from the bottom.
So my drains will sit about 1" under the shelf. Is that good?
First baffle is at 11", fuge baffle is at 12"
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
Tomorrow ill check water flow and see if the EPDM compression seals can hold up.

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StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
So got it wet today, foam sealed baffles are only partial success, so im getting glass cut this weekend.
The compression seals couldnt hold full depth water level in chamber 1 or fuge until the return section leveled out.
there was enough pressure to start moving the bottoms of the baffles.
That is obviously unacceptable.
The success was that the two baffle setup (over-under) is actually enough to function as a bubble trap.

I am going to keep my sock shelf as is, just going to silicone some glass stoppers to keep in position.

?? Ques.?? How to bond strainer top portion of fuge baffle to the new glass ?
What type of overlap will keep it attached?
Or should i just leave it full height right next to the glass.?
Fuge will probably only get about 50gph through it, but will have a 1" higher water line than return.
 

sk8rdn

Has been struck by the ban stick
Cut the glass slightly shorter than your baffle is now, and using the strainer section of acrylic you cut off of your current baffle, overlap it about an inch or so, and just silicone it into place. It's not like it's hold 800 psi or anything.
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
Silicone will be cured at lunchtime.
New wet test coming up. with pics.

I started thinking about my overflow box placement, shape and hoping for some design ideas to get me rollin.
I will make it out of smoked PC and weldon.
The idea so far is to build a fully sealed box, siliconed to back of tank, then bulkheads go through tank and box.
Maybe a sweeping arc front face to the box.
Cant decide if i should consider Coast to coast.
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
Wet test success. Ill take some video when i bring it home and get better light.
Setting up ATS on top of fuge monday. Non permanent.

As part ofof the lighting plan, im setting up 3ea.side x 1w. 660 nm stars on alum plates for scrubber lighting.
Then for fuge lighting i will add 2ea. more white/blues 1w.
Im thinking the lights will be the last project to do.
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StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
[video=youtube;68VgR1uQi8U]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68VgR1uQi8U&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
Seems like Calfo may be the way to go, nice and clean, but im thinking of using a straight pc installed on an angle to avoid having an L box hangin from the top. Ive seen one of these somewhere before, but cant think where.
id like to have tinted overflow to hide the bulkheads.

What material are standard overflows made withthe in a glass aquarium???
Is it ABS? PP? Acrylic/Lexan? And how well is the seal holding?
when doing sump research, it was advised not to adhere acrylic to glass with silicone but seems all the shaped overflows are definately not glass, and there sure arent many complaints about leaking...... so anyone speculate?

Im shooting for 500gph minimum flowrate thru DT, but want to leave some margin for upgraded pump in the future so im ordering 1" plumbing.
Also using schd80 bulkheads because i cant afford any possible failures.
One flood on new carpet and ill be in the doghouse.
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
Any drawbacks to using 1"plumbing (1800gph est. Max flow) in my low flow starting setup?
My siphon will be throttled back at the sump , am i missing anything i'll be sorry for later?

Im thinking waaaaayyyyy down the road for next big tank upgrade at least i wouldnt need new piping.
 

sk8rdn

Has been struck by the ban stick
StirCrayzy said:
Any drawbacks to using 1"plumbing (1800gph est. Max flow) in my low flow starting setup?
My siphon will be throttled back at the sump , am i missing anything i'll be sorry for later?

Im thinking waaaaayyyyy down the road for next big tank upgrade at least i wouldnt need new piping.

What size pump and pump outlet?

....Moving On, Moving On....
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
For initial startup im using my stripped down Eheim canister 3/4" in/out for return duties appr.300gph@30".
My Mag7 is being loaned into a CL on friends tank.
I will switch to that when i decide to make him finally buy his own.
For this tank i probably wont go over mag7.
 

sk8rdn

Has been struck by the ban stick
1" sounds good for a mag 7. Shouldn't add any extra head pressure.

....Moving On, Moving On....
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
Just loaded up on plumbing goods....
unexpectedly spent $60 :eek:
Didnt really figure it would add up to that, oh well. Onward.
Tryin to get wife to pick out stand details this week so i can order.
still tossing around overflow ideas,

Any thoughts on adding CL, or return Plumbed through rockwork?
How much flow will i lose pushing down into 24" of water.
I ordered an extra BH, but i would rather not drill low in tank, makes me a bit nervous ya know.
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
I got all my goodies from BRS.. building rockwork with their "dry live rock" as space filler between my existing rock.

For the record 4" BRS socks actually need 3 7/8"holes. My slightly over 4" holes cause a very sloppy fit.
Thats what i get for jumping the gun before i had them in hand. Duh.

*Mental note even without water in the tank, or even a tank itself... Rule #1 still applies *
* SLOW DOWN.*

Thinking i will use my extra BH as return then maybe throw LocLine over the overflow into display.

Im thinking curved bottom coast to coast overflow witha maxijet sitting inside plumbed down through overflow bottom into CL plumbing.
ANY THOUGHTS OR IDEAS?
 
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