How do you remove the canopy from a RSM250?

I see a couple pins in the back which look like you can just slide them out.

But how do you get the brackets that prop the canopy apart? I've googled it, but can't find a damn thing online.
 
I should mention that I'm trying to swap a burnt up ballast. But I'm at a roadblock without being able to get the hood off to lay it down on a table.
 

orieng

Member
Once you remove those pins and the wires you can just lift out the canopy. It is quite simple really. Try it and you will be able to do it .
 
So you can just pry them out with a flat head screwdriver? I can't physically get them to move with my fingernail. Not looking to damage anything :)
 

goma

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
Life up the skimmer flap. Then I usually grab the head of them with needle-nose pliers and pull them towards the center.
 
The guy that designed this is a sadist. The got the hinge screws out by yanking with a pair of needle nose pliers. Chewed the screw heads up nicely.

Now I'm struggling with getting the screw covers off the canopy. What is wrong with this people at RS? I've got two out. The rest seem to be cemented on and the screwdriver keeps slipping out of the slot and scratching the underside of the hood while at the same time tearing up the screw cover and pry slot opening.

Grrrrr.
 
To say this design is stupid, would be an understatement...

I eventually, after trying to gently massage the screw covers off (why do we even have screw covers for the bottom of the canopy anyway???), resorted to removing the bulbs and tapping the blade of the screw driver into the slot with a small hammer and prying the covers off. Needless to say the plugs and the pry slots don't look the same after being forced out. It's the bottom so who cares... But still. Wow. This is nuts. Even when they were partially pried up they still couldn't be pulled out by hand.
 

GregT

Active Member
The guy that designed this is a sadist. The got the hinge screws out by yanking with a pair of needle nose pliers. Chewed the screw heads up nicely.

Now I'm struggling with getting the screw covers off the canopy. What is wrong with this people at RS? I've got two out. The rest seem to be cemented on and the screwdriver keeps slipping out of the slot and scratching the underside of the hood while at the same time tearing up the screw cover and pry slot opening.

Grrrrr.

I didn't have a problem removing my screws by inserting into the slot and twisting? - perhaps my small screwdriver was a better fit or your screws are a different batch?
 
Ok, I'm in another pickle.

I took all the screws out per the directions. Although I only had 16 screws versus the directions which said there were 17. Mine is fairly new so the directions might be outdated.

Ballast swapped, everything lights. All good. However....

What I did not pay attention to was screw sizes. Uggggh. Apparently there are two different types. A fine pitch and a more corse pitch.

I have no idea which ones go wear and you can't tell by looking. I really don't want to pull this thing apart where I can test fit the screws without the cover. It was a ***** getting it back together.

Any suggestions? Help! :)
 
Ok, so the engineer at Red Sea deserves a throat punch. Maybe 2.

This is easily the most over engineer piece of aquarium equipment I've ever seen.

So it turns out there are two different size screws. If you peer into the holes with a really bright flashlight, you can see some of them have silver threads and some have gold. The gold threads work with the finer pitched screws and vice versa with the coarse screws in the silver holes. Aye yae yae.

Anyway, got it back together as much cussing and screaming. This is the most user "unfriendly" thing I've seen in a long time.


The pins on the the canopy are a bear to pull out. The screw caps were a total PITA x10. I've already mentioned the two types of screws. Who thought that would be a good idea? The ballast layout is so tight, that was equally unpleasant to work in there. Getting the two halves back together felt more like a magic trick. There are a couple dove tail connections on the back half that sandwich the top and bottom together. The timer side, no problem. The other side? Wow, that by my measurements shouldn't even fit together. I kept play and playing with it and somehow, someway it popped back together. I didn't dare take it apart again at that point. The fan covers are a real treat too....

I almost threw a complete hissy fit when I put it back on the tank and the lights didn't fire despite testing it 10x before putting it back on. I run a neptune controler. Pleased with my work, I hit the on button for my lights on the dashboard and nothing happens. Right before I completely melted down I realised I forgot to hit the on button on the timer :)

If I have have a problem with these lights again, I'm gutting the canopy and installing Steve's LED kit. I wasted about 4 hours just changing a ballast.
 
One question for the gurus...

After I got the ballast in, I fired the lights on to test them and note the order of the bulbs. The blues and whites were all messed up after trying to figure out initially if it was the bulbs or ballasts.

Anyway... I tried hot swapping the bulbs while they were lit and guess what? The two two rear bulbs I had an issue with initially stopped firing. Fuggggg. So I had a second spare ballast. Popped that in, all was good.

For grins... Since everything was apart I put the first replacement ballast back in. All the bulbs fired again.

Is that a major no no with T5's to swap them while lit?
 

alabella1

New Member
One question for the gurus...

After I got the ballast in, I fired the lights on to test them and note the order of the bulbs. The blues and whites were all messed up after trying to figure out initially if it was the bulbs or ballasts.

Anyway... I tried hot swapping the bulbs while they were lit and guess what? The two two rear bulbs I had an issue with initially stopped firing. Fuggggg. So I had a second spare ballast. Popped that in, all was good.

For grins... Since everything was apart I put the first replacement ballast back in. All the bulbs fired again.

Is that a major no no with T5's to swap them while lit?

I know this thread is super old, but I am having the same issue. About to put LEDs into my RSM250 hood and trying to figure out how to take it apart. After removing those two pins in the back near the skimmer, what did you end up doing about the legs?
 
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