Grow out system?

[DAHansen]

Shoot, for $30 I'd take it!

Unfortunately, I live nowhere near Hillbilly Hell. (or maybe that's actually fortunate...)

 

[Woodstock]

Thanks for the thought Nikki!

 

[nikkipigtails]

I didn't mean that particular one though, just using it as a example.

Sometimes you can find them on ebay. They're usually an old LFS display.

 

[fatman]

Do you have a grow out system or a multi-tank system?
If so, explain it and/or post pics so I can get some ideas.

I am out of room in my house and need to create a multi-tank system in my garage... :updown:

I don't want too many so I am thinking of only 5 x 20 gal tall tanks-- all plumbed together using a 100 gallon Rubbermaid stock tank for a sump.

Using only 5 tanks will not allow me to keep every spawn but I will have room for about every other one...

Help!! I need some ideas!! :snrkl:

GARF used to have plans posted for a frag tank unit that stacked tanks one above the other. Each tanks over flow water flowing to the tank below with the bottom tank as a sump with live rock, and housing a submersible pump returning water to the top tank. It used home made 2' x 4' foot acrylc tanks, but the idea behind the whole system was nice. It was made to be disassembled so that it could be taken to exhibits and such. They used individual suspended flourescents for lighting that hinged up out of the way for servicing the tanks. The foot print was of course a nominal 2' x 4'.

 

[Woodstock]

Thanks everyone for your great ideas

 

[Triggerjay]

Ok, I am no artist... but here's how I plan to do mine....:

Ok, The blue lines are drains, and the red lines are the returns. What I plan to do with mine, is run 2" PVC behind the tanks, at around shelf level, and a vertical 2" PVC going to the sump, with these glued together. I am going to drill all the tanks, install bulkheads, come out of the back of the tanks with 90's and drop these into holes drilled into the 2" pvc. this way if I want to remove any of the tanks, I just lift them up, and there will be no physical bond to the rest of the drain system.. basically just a slip fit. The returns (red) will have a valve above each tank to control flow. Hope this gives you some ideas,.... Its pretty rough, but I am hoping it shows the concept I have in my head..

Jason

 

[Frankie]

Nice Jason.
Couldn't you plumb that so gravity feeds the bottom row of tanks from the upper row? Would be less energy.
I am wondering if doing it like i use to with freshwater would be safer and better for the fish. I just used a large air pump with sponge filters in the 10 gallon tanks i was using. I kept the tanks bb and did water changes every week 75%. Very basic simple and easy to keep. I don't know if this works also with saltwater fish or not since i have never tried.

 

[Woodstock]

Thank you! I love the drain-slip idea Jason! I will definately use your plumbing scheme
So are you going to drill the tanks for a 1", 1.25" or a 1.5" bulkhead?

Frankie, I dont' think that would work because you would then be subjecting the bottom row with the pollution made from the top row of tanks?

 

[Octoman]

Nice work Jason! I would recommend using flex tubing from each tee/valve on the return line to the tank inlets. That way you don't have a big rigid pvc structure directly hooked to all your tanks.

Also, I would suggest putting an upward extension on the vertical part of the drain pipe. - An open ended standpipe to aid in drainage. I'll update Jason's image with what I'm talking about in just a second...

 

[Octoman]

Here, just a stand pipe with an open end above the highest drain in the tanks to aid in drainage. It would allow air to flow more smoothly into the drain...

 

[fatman]

There are compression couplings that are made for PVC pipe that are similar to the connections on sink drains, only they are easily opened and closed by hand without wrenches. They are often used on modifications on some skimmers outlets. They are a little more expensive than uniseals, but a lot easier to work with.
2" PVC Coupling Compression

 

[Frankie]

Good call Doni. I keep forgetting how much different a monster saltwater is compared to fresh. I definitely can see how that idea would concentrate the lower row.

 

[fatman]

With continual mass movement of water draining from bottom to top it really would not matter if the nutrients flowed throgh the upper tank then through the lower tnan then to a sump. The water will be moving in mass. The water will not be leaving behind detritus or nutrients they will all stay in suspension until removed in the sump. Flow through systems are w ery common in aquaculture and coral growing both. there are growers and aquaculture facilities tha have troughs 40 foot lomg that flow water in one end and out the other. To equalize the flow from your water return pump to all your returns at each tank you should preferably have your return pipes in a continous loop (circle). Then the loop ( loop manifold) should be fed from at least two opposing spots in the loop. This can be easily done by splitting the return. With a return feeding from both ends of the loop you can usually get pretty equal flow from each outlet without having to use valves at each return to balance the return flows.

 

[Triggerjay]

I was considering the sponge filters frankie, but I decided one large volume of water would be much easier to care for. I never thought of having the top row of tanks drain into the bottom rows though.. I like the idea! Oh, I would also leave enough room above the bottom row of tanks to hang a light. I plan to use a 4' shop light over each row of tanks on mine. I also understand the use of a loop fatman. This way you could return any un-needed flow from the return directly to the sump without putting back pressure on the main return pump.

Jason

 

[Triggerjay]

Oh, and as far as strainers on the drains, you could either use the pre-made strainers covered in panty-hose, or put a 90 on the tank side of the bulkheads, facing up to control water level, and cover it with panty hose.. Doni, I am going to go with 1.5" drains... not necessary, and overkill, but I believe in having as much drainage as I can possibly have...

Jason

 

[PEMfish]

This will get equal flow in all tanks. The other idea will get strong flow in the bottom right tank and very weak flow in the top left. I also moved each row out a little to make it easer to work in the tanks. The two bottom horizontal frame boards are 4x4 opposed to the rest of it witch is 2x4. The center brace is also 4x4, witch is indicated by the gray. The back leg of the center brace cannot be seen behind the stock tank.

 

[Frankie]

I don't know. After reading what Doni said about it it makes more and more sense to me not to gravity feed the bottom row. All the surface skimming will end up down there before skimming out back to the sump. It will be double the trouble for that row.

 

[PEMfish]

Listen to what FatMan said.

 

[Frankie]

I am sorry for snapping Pemfish. It has been a tough day. My fault buddy. I deleted our posts. Sorry Doni for interrupting here.

 

[Woodstock]

Thanks for the advice but I want all 'freshly filtered' water to enter each and every tank. All out-flowing water will be directed straight to the sump.
I have no problem with extra valves and plumbing.

I have found someone selling a set of four 15 gal (24x12x12) predrilled tanks at a very good price!
I might go with a total of eight divided between two shelves.