DIY Sump Build

[jgking21]

So after do all this reading, I've decided to DIY a sump out of an old 20 tall. Here it is, I think i'm doing 3 chambers, the first will be for the fuge, the second for protien skimmer and anything esle. I think I'm doing the bubble trap correct here, input will be taken! Then the area for the return pump.

already went lowes and had the aycrilic cut. the guy there was very helpful! and I got silicone, it's ge silicone II, says 100% silicone, but nothing about aquarium safe, anyone think it looks bad?

ready to start, but want to make sure silicone is good and any input on sump layout.
thank you!
Juice

 

[goldenmean]

I just want to let you know that acrylic will expand with temperature fluctuations. That expansion can put pressure on the glass tank and cause it to shatter. It is recommended that you use glass baffles on a glass tank.
Now I have heard that you can use acrylic baffles but you have to use a lot of silicone on both ends to allow for the expansion.
When I made my sump with a 15g tall AGA tank I went to a glass shop and had glass cut to size.
You can see my sump by clicking on the "55g link in the golden chain below."

 

[prow]

good thing you asked, i would not use that. its caulk and is mildew resistant not what you want to use. use something that is for aquarium. i use DAP aquarium sealant. you can get it at most any hardware store(lowes, homedepot, Ace.. ect..)
quick search for this one, many many hits if you google it.
Dow-Corning Aquarium Sealant


acrylic bonds ok to glass. my last sump i used a 40-45gal glass tank with acrylic baffles. you can check the build in my chronicle...pretty much the exact same desgin as you are thinking..

 

[jgking21]

alright, well guess i'm on hold, thank you! i saw the DAP stuff, but didn't see the aquirum sealant. just another trip to lowes!!!
also, since i spent the money on the aycrilic, should i just use it? i had them cut 7/8" short for expansion, i've got a grinder i can go smaller.

 

[prow]

i would use it and cut it so its against the glass, no space needed. have the coners rounded so it touches the bottom. i dont know about the expansion of the acrylic being a issue here, it bends if heated but in water dont think you will have that issue of it getting soft. how thick is the acylic you have?

 

[jgking21]

It is 1/4" thick. I feel that most of it will be underwater and that temp. shouldn't fluctate, it my tank water! right, or dumb to think that? thanks again about the silicone, that is why i'm here, don't want to screw up!

 

[goldenmean]

I did a lot of research a couple of years ago when i made my sump.
There have been sumps that have cracked and leaked due to acrylic baffles expanding. If you have 7/8 inch to work that gives you nearly a half inch on each side for expansion so you should be good. Your heater will be down there so it will be warmer there than in the DT. Then in the summer it could be warmer still.

 

[prow]

that should be fine, i used 1/4" and the tank i used short and fat. with taller taller and "not as wide" tank no worries....your not bulding a tank just baffles, water on boths sides will keep it from bending from water pressure even if you just wedged in there(not that you want it wedged or anything like that). the heat should not be an issue either.
on the size, cut to fit, yeah it can expand that is ture, i think the ones you see that leaked though are because they did not round the corners on the bottom. so the corners poke through the OG seals and spread the seals causing the leaking. i cut mine with a 1/8" play--1/16th on either side and rounded the bottom coners. used it for about 3 years with no problems.

 

[jgking21]

yeah, i would think my biggest expansion problem would be in the corners so i am rounding the corners and will just use extra silicon there.
goldenmean, thanks for the input, it will be kept in mind! and i'll watch for the expansion, if i see problems, i shut down quickly!!!

 

[jgking21]

back from lowes, got the good stuff this time. did my sanding of all the pieces, so i'm going to start. pics of the finished product to come.

another question, this is for the 54 gallon tank i'm upgrading to which has the built in over flow. what size pump would you recommend for the return?

 

[prow]

:chair:

 

[prow]

what size pump would you recommend for the return?

what size is your overflow and bulkhead? also how many feet up will you be pumping, measure from the sumps water surface to the DT water surface.
also in the pic it doesnt look like the corners are rounded? or is that yet to be done?

 

[jgking21]

the bottom corners are rounded, i'm still working on the top of this piece.

its a corner overflow, not sure of the size, the drain line is 1" and return line is 3/4". can't measure the distance the tank is in jacksonville, fl and stand is in charlotte, nc. i would estimate 3' to 4', the stand is pretty tall.

 

[BobBursek]

First good point, use the Dap Aqaurium silicone, no anti mildew in it which will kill corals and clean up crew, put the skimmer in the first compartment where the return water comes in, the dirtyist, then flow into the fuge area to let the Chato or what ever you have to bioly clean the water, then to the return pump section, IMMHO, In my fuge section I have a 2" sand bed, small LR pieces, Chato, and a reverse light system for the DT's to help keep an even PH balance, and when the DT lights go to just the Actinics the fuge lights go on and all the pods in the fuge go active, and end up in the DT and the fish are on a feeding frency!!!! All you need for the fuge lighting is some compact floorecents about 25 watts or less.

 

[jgking21]

lighting is my next question, i was thinking of using my coralife pc and only using one buld, 65W, will that be too much light? Other suggestions greatly appricated, I would prefer to keep my 25 running as is.

 

[BobBursek]

JGKing,
I have a pump head calculater site on my desk top. does not give me the web address, tell me how to transfer to you? Just get a cheap lite fixture and put in a couple 15 watt copact flourecents currly lights 1000k and that should do it.

 

[prow]

you may need to round those corner more. pic might not it well though. i just remember i had to cut a good amount to make the corners round so the bottom of the piece rested on the bottom of the tanks glass..

i second the placement of the skimmer and fuge...
on the light i agree dont have to go crazy..in fact i have got the best growth(cheato) using TCP 16watt 5100k bulbs(note; no reflector used) i use just a socket(no fixture)
PAR38 Reflector 16 Watt / 5100K: Light Bulbs Etc, Inc.

 

[jgking21]

okay, i've changed the layout. I made the first section smaller, and will house the skimmer and sterilizer. second section the fuge and third the return.
rbursek, not sure how to transfer something like that, unless you can email, jgking21@yahoo.com.
prow, the corners are rounded enough for the baffle to sit on the bottom, i've checked for that. and i have a little more than 1/4" give for the acrylic to expand. thanks for the lighting link, i'll look into something like that.
resealed the bottom of the tank, small leak, and got the silicone all over my hands. the tube broke open, getting latex gloves before i work on the baffles. try to post a picture tomorrow, i would like to think they may help someone else down the road.

 

[BobBursek]

jgking21,
while a sterilizer?? It kills the GOOD and the bad!!!!!!!! I had one when I needed it but till you need one if even if you do, I would not use one, got a fish disease from LFS, dated a worker there and turned me on to it, the disease they had after buying 3 Cardinals from them and killed alot off LS in my tank, now only buy LS from DFS LiveAquaria, all quareenteened before shipping and a 14 day no question gaurentee.

 

[BobBursek]

I just had a brain storm!!!!!!!! My oldest son is a VP of ISM, I was computer illeterate untill he left the house. I will email you it and should be able to attach it!!!!!!!!! 3 Martin's does help the brain!!!!!!! But it is time not to have the fourth!!!!!!!!!!!
Bob