Cyano outbreaks in the RSM?

slakker

Member
Sorry for the hijack/off track... I'm a sucker for detail, and just wanted to know for my edification... no back to our scheduled program. :)
 

tyleratl

Member
I'm also having repeat Cyano problems in my 34 gallon Red Sea Max and am a bit confused as to why. I am using a Fluval 205 with the four foam pads followed by a filter fiber pad, 1 small bag of Fluval brand carbon, another fiber pad, one unit of Chemi-Pure Elite, another fiber pad, one half unit of Chemi-Pure Elite, and a final fibre pad. I usually service the filter every 10 days by rinsing the four large Fluval pads in saltwater. I replace the fibre pads by cutting new ones from the large roll that I bought. I rinse the Chemi-Pure Elite with saltwater and replace once it is three months old. I replace the Fluval carbon monthly. My nitrates are currently 2.5 PPM. Do you guys think I should remove the mechanical filtration from the Fluval 205? If so, all or some of it? 2.5 PPM is low, but not zero. Could that be causing the Cyano?

FYI, other parameters: Calcium is 400 PPM, PH is 8.0, Phosphate is 0.0 PPM, SG is 1.024, ALK is a bit low at 7.0 DKH. Temp runs from 80-82 during a 24 hour cycle. I use Coralife salt due to a belief that it is high in calcium and magnesium while having among the lowest levels of nitrates and phosphates offered by a salt mix. But, the Alkalinity does tend to run on the low end.

I use a DI filter called the Tap Water Filter and change the cartridge when I get more than 5 on my TDS meter. Usually it is 0. I have added a Koralia Nano to the bottom right hand corner of the RSM for extra circulation where I felt like it was lacking the most. I change about 5 gallons of water every two weeks with the DI water that I mentioned. I have reduced feedings to the bare minimum and do so every other day.
 
I have just recently won my first battle against cyano in my DT. I still have a little on the baffles in my sump but other than that it has pretty much gone. The first thing you should do is soak everything you feed in RO/DI water to draw out any phosphates or other chemicals that are in your food then filter the food out. Also try making your own food that way you know what you are putting into your tank. Here is a great link that Woodstock started about how to make MUSH
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/diy/28178-how-make-homemade-mush.html

You also might need to feed every other day as opposed to everyday. If you are feeding faster than your CUC can work then that food is just rotting in your tank raising nitrate and phosphates in your tank

What kind of CUC do you have hermit crabs will actually eat cyano some more than others Mexican red legged reef hermits are among the most efficient.

Good luck
 

bryceK

Member
Well for me I just recently added a whole new CUC most everything else I originally had died off. My cyano is mostly gone before they got here. Now I green hair algae and some brown growing. As for food with me I only feed Rod's Food once every other day. I think a big part of my problem has been my RO water. I had a small 25gpd portable unit that I believe I need to get new filters for. I just ordered a new RO/DI 100gpd unit from Air Water and Ice that will be here on Wednesday.
 

jb673

Member
Folks;
I say again-use quality RO/DI water to top off the tank-I'm fortunate that my LFS make their own RO/DI water both salt & water only. Using distilled water created huge cyno problems for me, but now, all is well.
Best of Luck to All! Jerry
 

Reefmack

NaClH2O Addicted
PREMIUM
bryceK - how's the cyano & algae situation? My brown stuff is receeding now after directing one of the RSM powerheads more towards the front of the tank.
 

bryceK

Member
The cyano seems to be all gone and the green hair algae I had is disappearing. I will be doing a water change Friday night or Saturday with RO/DI water from my new unit so will see how that goes.
 
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