Anarchy's 180

anarchy

Well-Known Member
Well the past couple days ive been getting everything ready for the 180! Had to build a stand since my buddy wanted to keep his for his dad. Then had to go to his house and break the tank down and move it. Heres some pictures of what has happen so far.
4a22da2e0132d6135314af302f866d98.jpg
38e00303a9a20b9d75db0b8f0cf98664.jpg
e11562519a15cb048c0b343583ae39a3.jpg
da14b9f14a2484302b05142ac405e43b.jpg
dbd30904a5087e5f41ecdb955136f4a4.jpg


The only part that has been messed up was the stand height. The original height was going to be 36". I forgot to figure in the 3/4" plywood top and bottom. Also i was going to use 2x4 for the bottom frame but last minute switched everything to 2x6 and forgot to recalculate height so now my stand is 39"!!!!! Oh well ill use a chair

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
The tank is already setup for the herbie overflow from the previous owner, but it was loud (might have needed adjusting) and the fact theres no emergency i dont like. So i wanted to go bean animal. There wasnt many pictures of bean animal with dual overflows but i did find this one. Curious if this would work
945df5434d0baca481f6d235f9600153.jpg


Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

Wrangy

Acropora Nut
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
Woohoo!! Bloody fantastic mate :) Can't wait to watch this one grow given how well the other tanks are looking :)
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
Woohoo!! Bloody fantastic mate :) Can't wait to watch this one grow given how well the other tanks are looking :)
Thanks! Theres still a long process thats going to happen before this ones ready. Its not going to be like previous builds where once its in place everything gets dumped in as is. The 30 has to get broken down and sterilized. Then resetup as a coral qt. Once its ready then coral will be dipped very harshly to garuntee theres no pests and they will stay in qt until im confident theyre pest free. Once the 30 is broken down then things should move a little faster. The rock will be removed and given an acid bath to remove all the unwanted pests such as aiptasia and bubble algae. Once thats all done then yhe tank can be aquascaped and filled for cycling. The current fish i have will not be qt'd because theyre obviously healthy and disease free, but all newcomers will be. Id like to get approval on the fish room soon so i can build the stands and get it all cleaned up and ready.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
Figured i should make the build thread a little more professional and throw up an equipment list

Tank: 180 gallon aqueon RR with 2 3/4" returns drilled in the back. Plumbing currently setup for herbie
Picture from when my friend first set the tank up
9f66d81e0087d0ca34af4def01214166.jpg


Skimmer: reef octopus classic 225 int
Right side comparing to my old RO 150
bd1e54061228de1f486fc76a61c0e82a.jpg


Sump: acrylic sump unknown manufacturer 3 chamber 48x16x15
ffb0224904c1b8cd2faa47dd5e0cbbc0.jpg


Flow:
Return- jebao dc12000
In tank- 2 rw20, 1 rw15, 1 rw8, maybe 1 hydor 1400

Lighting:
2 250w halides 1 400w halide 4 48" t5

Calcium Reactor:
Precision marine

ATO:
Diy ato with dual float switches

Heaters:
2 300w jagers

Extra:
-Apex with temp probe and 2 ph probes
-brs dual reactor

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

bwhit1406

Member
Looks good, I think it makes it harder to adjust if you tie both siphon drains into the same pipe though.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
Looks good, I think it makes it harder to adjust if you tie both siphon drains into the same pipe though.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
Im probably going to do the herbie style overflow but im not using any of the old plumbing you see in the photos. Ill be doing the plumbing however the herbie is suppose to be setup. I have to do more research once i get time to figure out exactly how it needs to be plumbed so it will be completely silent

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

Squatch XXL

Well-Known Member
Curious if this would work
IF both overflows are perfectly level, this should work perfect. I have dual single overflows in my 40g, and since one is higher than the other, my siphon line takes all the flow. My "emergency" line is a standard durso, but with the cap hole drilled into the side of the tee above the water line. This causes it to go full siphon if the overflow gets too full.

time to figure out exactly how it needs to be plumbed so it will be completely silent

I love my herbie style in my 40 gallon. It runs silent once you get the balance down. The failsafe of the herbie is that IF water gets high, it will siphon through the emergency..

I too like the beananimal, and yes it is better in the total catastrophe event that may never happen, simple checks to the emergency overflow of the herbie prove it is working. It is a simple check when I start up pumps after feeding. Water level gets high while it is beginning to siphon, than the emergency pipe goes full siphon, but is higher than the suction line.
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
IF both overflows are perfectly level, this should work perfect. I have dual single overflows in my 40g, and since one is higher than the other, my siphon line takes all the flow. My "emergency" line is a standard durso, but with the cap hole drilled into the side of the tee above the water line. This causes it to go full siphon if the overflow gets too full.



I love my herbie style in my 40 gallon. It runs silent once you get the balance down. The failsafe of the herbie is that IF water gets high, it will siphon through the emergency..

I too like the beananimal, and yes it is better in the total catastrophe event that may never happen, simple checks to the emergency overflow of the herbie prove it is working. It is a simple check when I start up pumps after feeding. Water level gets high while it is beginning to siphon, than the emergency pipe goes full siphon, but is higher than the suction line.
Isnt the basic idea of the herbie to have 1 full syphon and the emergency has water just trickling down it this is what makes it quiet and keeps the air from back feeding or whatever happens when the air makes all the noise

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

Squatch XXL

Well-Known Member
Isnt the basic idea of the herbie to have 1 full syphon and the emergency has water just trickling down it this is what makes it quiet and keeps the air from back feeding or whatever happens when the air makes all the noise
Yes. What makes the noise is water traveling straight down, while the air is banging around trying to float straight up. Using a full siphon removes the air from the overflow totally. Using the emergency as designed allows for a trickle, and this keeps air and water from mixing, and removes most other sounds. I use a durso on my "emergency" line and I only hear the return pump.

The herbie and the beananimal do the exact same thing, but with an added safety redundancy in the bean. The photo you posted of your potential design is a great mix of both herbie and bean. Lots of redundancy.....However on second glance, the ONLY spot a problem could arise is where the 2 siphon lines Tee together. I personally would run each to the sump separate.
 
Last edited:

anarchy

Well-Known Member
Yes. What makes the noise is water traveling straight down, while the air is banging around trying to float straight up. Using a full siphon removes the air from the overflow totally. Using the emergency as designed allows for a trickle, and this keeps air and water from mixing, and removes most other sounds. I use a durso on my "emergency" line and I only hear the return pump.
So in your opinion which style drains should i use? The dual overflowed bean or the herbie?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

Squatch XXL

Well-Known Member
So in your opinion which style drains should i use?
I thought about this since 4:30 am off and on through work. I think that IF you have dual overflows WITH dual return lines, you should treat EACH overflow as its own unit.

The ONLY difference between a single bean or herbie is the additional redundant emergency line. Both systems rely on a full siphon, but the big difference is the amount of saftey. The real benefit of this is made apparent when ONLY 1 solution is present...When one only has 2 or 3 drain lines...... In your situation you could have a pair of full siphon lines, as well as a pair of emergency lines. With the lines being within your overflow, you can put a durso at the top of both of your emergency lines to remove the trickle sounds. You could very easily modify the design of one of your emergency lines to quickly go full siphon when situations arise.

My opinion is that either a dual herbie or a 4 pipe "beananimal" would work.

I drilled my durso hole in the side of my tee on my emergency line, so that when restarting pumps it would quickly go full siphon, while being as quiet as possible. I have tried a number of systems, and in my opinion the Durso is the best at keeping water quiet.

As your build comes to life, you may get chances to fiddle with concepts and hypothesis while running. I fiddled with my smaller tank for months in testing cap hole sizes, line sizes, distance of flow etc. My best solution for my 40 gallon breeder may not be the best in every situation. My opinion is that either a dual herbie or a 4 pipe "beananimal" would work....but I would start with a simple textbook example, and modify designs from a working state. Theoretically, either one should be almost totally silent.

Your choice in pump will show you what you can do. It is totally amazing how much water can be removed by a full siphon, versus a standard durso overflow. Removing air greatly increases the water volume.
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
I thought about this since 4:30 am off and on through work. I think that IF you have dual overflows WITH dual return lines, you should treat EACH overflow as its own unit.

The ONLY difference between a single bean or herbie is the additional redundant emergency line. Both systems rely on a full siphon, but the big difference is the amount of saftey. The real benefit of this is made apparent when ONLY 1 solution is present...When one only has 2 or 3 drain lines...... In your situation you could have a pair of full siphon lines, as well as a pair of emergency lines. With the lines being within your overflow, you can put a durso at the top of both of your emergency lines to remove the trickle sounds. You could very easily modify the design of one of your emergency lines to quickly go full siphon when situations arise.

My opinion is that either a dual herbie or a 4 pipe "beananimal" would work.

I drilled my durso hole in the side of my tee on my emergency line, so that when restarting pumps it would quickly go full siphon, while being as quiet as possible. I have tried a number of systems, and in my opinion the Durso is the best at keeping water quiet.

As your build comes to life, you may get chances to fiddle with concepts and hypothesis while running. I fiddled with my smaller tank for months in testing cap hole sizes, line sizes, distance of flow etc. My best solution for my 40 gallon breeder may not be the best in every situation. My opinion is that either a dual herbie or a 4 pipe "beananimal" would work....but I would start with a simple textbook example, and modify designs from a working state. Theoretically, either one should be almost totally silent.

Your choice in pump will show you what you can do. It is totally amazing how much water can be removed by a full siphon, versus a standard durso overflow. Removing air greatly increases the water volume.
Most likely the only things tied together will be the manifold and return lines. Most likely the 4 drains (whichever style) will be individually piped

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
Small update

Sorry this build is taking so long. Works been crazy lately and vacation is coming up in 1 week.

Fixed both of the problems I had with the stand.
1) the tank sat too far back which blocked too much of the drain so I had to add another set of 2x6 to the front so I could move the tank forward.
2) move the horizontal supports that run front to back under the tank because they also sat in the way of the drains.

4265b03af2ac630cb695069561ae476c.jpg


Both problems were easy fixes. Both were caused from building the stand without having the tank with me for measurements.


Last thing to do the the stand before moving it downstairs is to
1) move the plywood top that the tank sits on forward
2) get a new bottom piece of plywood because this one is now way too small and i dont trust it to support the weight evenly
3) put the plywood on the side thats going up against the wall


Quick question for whoever is reading this. The top of the stand will be shown through the bottom of the tank since I'm going barebottom. Should it be
1) stained to match
2) painted white to help reflect light like sand would
3) painted black to make the coral pop

I know over time coralline will take over the bottom glass, but on rare occasions I scrape it all off.

Also i think the plywood going up against the wall is just going to get painted white. Dont see a reason to waste stain on something that will never be seen

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
Fish I currently have
Blue spotted rabbitfish
Orange shoulder tang
Yellow eye kole tang
Sailfin tang
Lubbock fairy wrasse
Picasso percula clown
2 Blue green chromis
2 Pajama cardinal

Fish id like to add (i love tangs)
Fathead sunburst anthias
Starry blenny
3 pyramid butterflyfish
Hi fin red banded goby
Blonde naso
Yellow belly regal tang
Whitecheek tang
Scopas tang

Other possibilities if i find for a decent price
Australian copperband
Hawaiian moorish idol
Purple tang
Maybe a few more wrasse

I know I won't be able to fit them all, but most likely I won't be able to find them all locally in the order i'd like

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
I'd like to add them in waves not just one at a time. So here's how I'd like to do it

Wave 1) blue spotted rabbit, lubbock, clowns, chromis, cardinals

Wave 2) sunburst, Starry, 2 gobies,

Wave 3) moorish idol, copperband, pyramid butterflyfish,

Wave 4) OS tang, sailfin, blonde naso, Whitecheek

Wave 5) Yellow belly regal, yellow eye kole, scopas, purple

Each wave of fish will go into qt for observation. If anything is spotted in the first 6 weeks then the disease will be treated. If after 6 weeks nothing is seen then they will be moved to the frag tank for another couple weeks to make sure no one is nipping at corals. Once thats done they finally earn their place in the DT

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Well-Known Member
Okay let's play catch up!

July 27
Find water in my basement. Call insurance and they send out a company to clean up the water. They ripped walls and carpet out leaving this
203fa5c976a21fbc1d5e148275ff71f4.jpg

As you can see they had to stop at my tanks.

July 29- August 6
We leave for vacation! Went to the U.P. (upper Peninsula of Michigan for those not in the states). Didn't catch 1 fish. That sucked. Got an amazing present from a close family friend that lives up there. He does taxidermy and made this
8bfafc4195ed2198d8e20a16563e822a.jpg


August 10
Insurance guy comes to the house to tell us what they are paying for. Basically they are going to remodel our entire basement! That's awesome because I hate the oak panelling thats down there. Modern ages (drywall) here we come. Not only that but he tells me the tanks have to move so they can finish ripping the walls out. Meaning my upgrade has to happen NOW which I wasnt ready for. Best part is they are going to pay me for every hour it takes to shutdown the current tanks and set up the new one. Sweet!

August 11
Finish the stand
0830235e17825eb780d10ca32f63e9f2.jpg
fee1ddc5ad9eece3ab57a243fd9637fe.jpg

1st coat on the bottom of the tank
f5fea29988f0acf284874f4cf8a64b3c.jpg
249473881bf4f28713647e404f7b8a04.jpg


Today's project
Move everything to the basement tonight
Plumbing starts tonight or tomorrow depending what time moving finishes

Unfortunately I'm going to have to do this a way that I don't want to because of the time crunch. Basically everything is just being put straight into the 180 and filled the rest of the way with fresh saltwater. Once the basement remodel and fish room are finished then the 180 will be shutdown again and done the way I want. Not ideal but has to happen this way as my current tanks are holding everything up

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
Top