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dosing calcium and magnesium will increase the specific gravity of your water

can you post a link to this?

if you fitted eheim compact 600's the flow is slightly down on the standard pumps,also if you have elbows on the hoses get rid of them,lay the pumps on their backs and run a curved hose to the locline fittings

there was never a problem with the 9002 standard cup,the problem always was (as said above) that the cup has to be removed to open the hood,the stevieT cup solves this

just over 12 months,always had nitrate issues, got rid of everything in the back and the nitrate slowly came down, now undetectable

if you have decent liverock and a functioning skimmer both are redundant,after a few days they just cause nitrate,ive emptied my media rack and never looked back

you need to address your phosphate to be rid of GHA ideally you should be aiming at no higher than 0.05ppm i like you struggled with elevated levels but after a while the phosphate gets into the rock and its difficult to get levels down,phosphate reactors,rowaphos etc work ok at maintaining low...

yes, mines been running empty for over 3 years with undetectable nitrate,every piece of media produces nitrate that the anaerobic bacteria deep in the live rock cannot get to, if you must run other media it must be washed in hot fresh water every 2-3 days to prevent biological activity from...

if you do get a controller i would be careful what you run on it,i would leave at least the circulation pumps and heater on normal power points (or the standard power center) being a small tank things can wrong very quickly when (not if) your controller malfunctions, i nearly lost my whole tank...

unfortunately the RSM is a bit of a nitrate factory,providing you have live rock in the display area i would remove all the filter media from the back of the tank and make sure the skimmer is running efficiently, no amount of purigen or chemi pure will remove nitrate,it will however produce...

you should be rinsing in fresh water/changing the filter every 2-3 days to prevent nitrate production,you want all biological activity in the live rock

mines to the left of the skimmer,i dont run any filtration media apart from a bag of rowaphos

its available at pool shops and big hardware stores(possibly Lowes in your part of the world) as liquid phosphate remover,just make sure the active constituent is lanthanum chloride,you can work out the dose for your phosphate level with the dosage chart on the bottle,as an example a phosphate...

Yes its not a case of what controller,its a case of ordering the right drivers for the controller you want to use P suffix drivers = PWM = typhon,arduino, rapid LED D suffix drivers= analogue= Dim 4 and other 0-10v controllers decide what controller you want to use and order the drivers...

you can get all the phosphate out of the substrate and live rock with lanthanum chloride,you need to dose into the grate about 2.5ml a day until its all gone,dont need to remove any livestock and should see you phosphate free in about 2weeks

thats what i thought,looks like it will hang up on the plastic surround of the tank,be great if it does fit

be interesting to know if it fits in the back

yes i too found the stock lighting impossible to sell,surprising as the stock setup would be perfect for a 2 footer

theres nothing in any aquarium that will require anywhere near 5 amps,are you sure you are not confusing amps with watts? as the wattage draw can be quite significant,wattage is the actual running use,amps is just the size of the cable supplying it,the only equipment that needs a 15 or 20 amp...

the Steves LED kit doesnt specify what drivers he's using, the rapid and modular (which i use) give you the option of analogue (D) or digital (P) dimmable drivers,all you need to do is find out what dimming signal the reefkeeper puts out and order the appropriate drivers (D or P) looking at the...