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Whenever I see any Aiptasias or Majano anemones in my tanks, I inject TM Elimi-Aiptas directly into the stalk as opposed to into the mouth. I find that the product has a better kill rate when injected into the stalk rather than the mouth.

I had issues with my Alk. in my 90 gallon mixed reef until about 2 years ago. I did some research and started using Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium to dose my Ca in my tank...it gradually raised the dkH which has kept steady at around 9dkh and 450 mg/l Ca. I havent had an issue with either since.

I am a huge advocate of feeding corals in my tanks. I target feed my LPS corals thawed and rinsed frozen mysis in the evenings a couple times per week. I feed SPS in my tank 2-3 times per week alternating with frozen oyester eggs, Tropic Marin Pro-Coral Phyton and TM Pro-Coral Zooton.

Algae problems are usually caused by aquarium water with excess nutrients like phosphate, nitrates etc. You can get a Clean Up Crew of Emerald Crabs, Hermits, Fox Face Rabbit Fish, or a tang etc. and try and siphon out what you can to remove the algae in the short term. In the long term you may...

How long has your tank been running for? New tanks usually go through a phase with ugly diatoms and algae growth. In the long term, hair Algae problems are usually caused by aquarium water with excess nutrients like phosphate, nitrates etc. You can get a Clean Up Crew of Emerald Crabs, Hermits...

Fish Tank Kings is a way better show when it comes to explaining fish selection, fish care and biology information. Francis the Fish Geek seems very knowledgeable and actually cares about the fish.

Loyalty to salt brands is always a contentious issue. But since we are on the topic, I've been using Tropic Marin's new Bio Actif Salt in my smaller 60 gallon mixed SPS LPS reef for just over a year and love it. I'm was using their standard Tropic Marin Salt in my main 90 gallon soft coral reef...

I am a huge advocate of feeding corals in my tanks. I feed in the evenings when the the coral feeding tentacles are out. I target feed my LPS corals thawed and rinsed frozen mysis in the evenings 1x per week. I feed the SPS and Non Photosynthetic corals (1x large carnation, 2 x tubestrea and 3...

I agree with Mike, RTN can happen really suddenly on a seemingly healthy coral that has been in a tank for years. I've lost a few corals the same way too. I keep an eye out for any signs of RTN and immediately cut off the receding/ dead parts and dip the entire coral in an iodine bath like TM...

I try to stay away from dkH buffers and a lot of my friends tend to use it too aggressively and end up making changes in the water chemistry in their tanks too quickly (in my opinion). I generally like to a change my water chemistry to happen very slowly over time. Usually a tank that has a...

Algae problems are usually caused by aquarium water with excess nutrients like phosphate, nitrates etc. You can try and siphon out what you can to remove the algae in the short term. In the long term you may have to examine how you care for your tank. There are some commercial dry foods also...

In my experience, the Peppermint Shrimp that I have placed in my tank usually always eat Aiptasias. I normally buy smaller shrimp because I personally think they may do a better job at eating aiptasias than larger ones. But, on the rare occasion I ever see an Aiptasia, I inject it with Tropic...

+1 looks like Dinoflagellates to me too. What are you water quality parameters? If your pH is below 8.4, you may want to try and raising to that. I've had friends do it successfully get rid of their Dino outbreaks. Also, using RO/DI water with a high quality salt like Tropic Marin should also...

In the short term you can siphon the areas where the diatoms are growing. In the long term you should look at possible causes of the diatom growth. There are some commercial dry foods also contain excess nutrients and other undesirable things like nitrates, phosphates etc so I strain/rinse my...

Loyalty to salt brands is always a contentious issue. But since we are on the topic, I I have always been happy with Tropic Marin's salt. I use TM Bio Actif in my 90 gallon SPS/LPS tank and and it has produced some great results for me .

+1 on dipping corals. I dip all my new corals in an iodine bath like Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure before introducing them into my tank. Understandably I get a bit paranoid about introducing things like flatworms into my display tanks.

I believe that star polyps, zoanthids and mushrooms benefit from iodine supplementation . From my experience and referencing Reef Aquarium Vol 2., I think that they prefer a tank with elevated Iodine concentrations at approx. .06ppm. If you add iodine to your tank, be sure to always test for it...

Copepods are usually bad and provide a good supplemental food source for the larger animals in your aquarium.

I agree it should recover on its own. If you start to see recession and brown jelly you can try dipping it. You can use airline tubing to siphon off the dying/necrotic tissue and then you may want to give it a dip in an Iodine solution like Pro Coral cure to help prevent the spread.

Whenever I see any Aiptasias in my tanks, I inject TM Elimi-Aiptas directly into the stalk as opposed to into the mouth. I find that the product has a better kill rate when injected into the stalk.