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I buy 400W 20000K MH bulbs for 19.00 each off Ebay and they work great. Nice blue color temp.

It seems to be running rather smoothly, but the water volume is noticably less. Nothing I do seems to make it airtight though. It still pumps microbubbles into the tank. It's really fine mist almost like cigarette smoke.

I use a computer power center. I just re-labeled computer, monitor, printer, aux1 and aux2 to read: Lights, Moonlights, Wavemakers, Return Pump, and Skimmer. I like to be able to turn stuff on at the click of a switch.

I'm using an Iwaki MD-70RLZ pump for my return. I was getting a lot of microbubbles, so I decided to try clear flex hose to pull water from my sump. When I turned the pump on, the flex hose collapsed on itself and the pump kept sucking. I ran and turned off the pump, and went back to the PVC...

When I made mine it acutally operated via siphon from a drilled opening in the side of my tank, so no pump was necessary. A ball valve at the bottom of the skimmer controlled the water level in the skimmer and it simply flowed into the sump. As for the air pump, I used a Coralife 7.0 psi Luft...

How? I'm not using it anymore. :dunno:

Maybe you're right. I'll have to figure out what to do with this tank then,

Well, The experiment is over :( I got home from work today and one of my snails had cleaned all the algae off the Conair, and I noticed there was no water movement. It would work if I shook it, but very weak, so I decided to call the time of death. I just got two new wave makers, so the...

Jeremy, I connected the skimmer to a 1hp Hayward pool pump. It seems to work pretty well. I modified the collection cup to drain into a jug because watter would always spill out from the neck. I had to silicone the collection cup into the neck of the skimmer. So far so good. Here's a pic.

As a safety measure to keep from accidentally cutting yourself on baffles and dividers while doing maintenance, you can use that black plastic automotive door moulding with a little silicone on the top edges of the glass panes. It gives a nice finished look to your sump/fuge while protecting...

It's a 40 gallon. 36"x14"x18"

How thick was the glass? That thin glass they have at Lowe's may not be durable enough.

I guess I was asking because I already have the extra tile and could cut it to size myself. My cost would be zero. I'd have to buy the glass and have it cut.

Just wondering if ceramic tile held in place with silicone would be a cheap way to make dividers and baffels in a fuge.

It's still going strong. I think the few button polyps and mushrooms I had on my live rock like it. They're beginning to multiply.

What would be the benefit of a larger size? I'm new to reefkeeping, so I honestly don't know.

I bought a used 40 gallon tank from the Salvation Army thrift shop for 10 bucks yesterday. I figured I can turn it into a refugium for my 240. I'm looking for suggestions on its design. The pic below is my current vision, but the tank hasn't been drilled yet or anything.

Trying to get there. All those years in the Marines kept me moving so much that I couldn't stay in one spot long enough for reefkeeping. I always just did FOWLR. So, I'm a newbie to the reef stuff, but making sure I have all the appropriate gear to go forward. Next will be a calcium reactor...

I'm buying it from him. I built a tank room in one side of my two-car garage and have my 240 and 75 gallon tanks in the walls. All maintenance is done from inside the room, so I can have that skimmer running on my 240 and out of sight. Semper

The Conair is still going strong after 8 days of 24/7 running and is beginning to get coated with algae.