Search results

Tunze Osmolator is the way to go...

You can do it carefully... A little at a time and monitor the levels. To minimize cloudiness, what I'd do is put the sand is a small cup and very gently lower it to the bottom and very gently tip it out very slowly.

I vase the 130, not the D version so different skimmer and no surface skimmer. I've never used any filter material and notice a lot settled detritus. I've recently upgraded to a 9002 skimmer w/ media rack and added a MP10, the pump kicked up a lot of detritus and suspended it. What I did was...

1) Huge difference in maintaining a large tank... in a tank that size, temperature, salinity, etc. swings are easily managed and don't occur easily. 2) Yes and no... it's easier because of the above, but no because even a 5% water change is a LOT more water. Or dosing anything is just that...

I have a inTank media rack and once I installed the MP10, it kicked up and suspended a lot of debris... I put floss on the media rack and after a few hours, it clogged and dropped the water level in the back... my ATO started pumping water in and almost flooded my tank! I unplugged the ATO...

I hear ya, hence my caveat of "may not be optimal". I'm still researching for papers on this topic as its a constant curiosity for me. There's 2 main stressors. One is the shock of a rapid change and the other is the constant pressure to regulate osmotic pressure. Obviously if the fish was...

I had a few instance where the salinity dropped... what I did was use salt mix (Instant Ocean) in a jug and mix it with the tank water, stir it slightly as it won't completely dissolve and pour it into the overflow... and re-dilute, stir, mix and do that slowly until all the salt is dissolved...

I think keeping the detritus in suspension will help get it out of the tank over time... if not in suspension, the detritus settles on the rocks and that's why the MP10 and/or other wave makers stir sh*t up...

I got the Tunze Osmolator with the mounting arms a few years ago, but hated how it worked. Hard to mount and fine tune... but then got the magnet mount for it and it's 1000x better! The magnet can literally be easily moved millimetres at a time to fine tune the water level...

If sump and fuge are out of the question, then an option is to do the same with Hang of Back options for protein skimmer, and maybe even a small fuge. I don't use mechanical filtration much, but when detritus builds up after a years or two, its good to have a sump with filter sock as an...

I have a RSM 130 and find the engineering and construction very well thought through... not perfect, but pretty good. I also have a Biocube 8 and 14... those are good, but not as good as the RSM. Just simple things like cable management, etc... The only thing I have to complain about is...

+1 for on all night... I run a simple cycle with my setup... Dawn = actinic only Early morning = actinic + 1 metal halide Mid day = 2 metal halides only (total 500 W) Evening = actinic + 1 metal halide Dusk = actinic only Night = Moon only

Must the cheato tumble? I've seen some successful sumps where there's so much macro algae that no tumbling can ever happen... I'm asking because I really don't don't for sure and would be interested to hear the opinions. In my sump, I have DSB and LR, so the cheato doesn't tumble, and it...

The float style monitor is a float... Easy to clean and rinse or salt, but salt can clog its motion... Not high likely hood. The tunze uses an optical sensor, much like the ones on cars that turn on the wipers when it rains. It's based on refractive index changes when water is on it or not...

The downside of Tunze is the price, but the up side is that it's pretty much turn-key out of the box... And it's pretty geeky tech

I use a tunze osmolator in my 130... Works the same in 250 I suspect. I put a rectagular water tub in the stand... It's just a storage box from Ikea

Ya, the the tricky one is when each color has multiple modes depending on whether it's LED 1&2 lit vs LED 3&4 lit, etc.. it's a great product functionally, but they should take a page from user interface design from Android or Apple... LOL...

Hope this helps... http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/mp10_manual.pdf

I've just started using the vertex biopellets as well. I did a DIY rig with a TLF 150 reactor. I turned it upside down and put the pump into the "out" and ran it in "reverse"... The tumbling motion is very good and the mesh replacement worked well. As it's my first attempt with pellets...

I got the 1" overflow hose as part of my sump setup (Aqueon)... for the pump return, I just get the hose from the local H/W (HD) store, non-braided and cheap.