Nobby's S-650

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
Phew. After searching around I have found Ecotech do make a barbed connector. However, it is not available in Germany so I'll have to order from somewhere else. Why on earth this is not supplied with the pump I'll never know.
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
To fix the ATO I ordered a Red Sea replacement ATO kit which arrived yesterday. It was fitted in about two minutes and all available good bits and O rings from the old one were put into a plastic bag and stored in the 'odds & sods' box which I'm sure you all have, because you never know which bits may break in the future.
 

Pancho75

Well-Known Member
To fix the ATO I ordered a Red Sea replacement ATO kit which arrived yesterday. It was fitted in about two minutes and all available good bits and O rings from the old one were put into a plastic bag and stored in the 'odds & sods' box which I'm sure you all have, because you never know which bits may break in the future.
Yes, I have one replacement part of this ones at home. Too critical and too cheap.
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
In other news........My seven Blue Chromis are now down to just the one. The last one to disappear followed the same path as the others. It started to hide in the rocks/corals but still came out for food and some swimming around. Gradually over a period of about a month, the amount of time spent hidden away grew, until one day it just disappeared. No sign of any disease. No sign of being attacked. She just gradually gave up! So only the Male is left. I will not be replacing them. I think Anthias are much better suited to be the 'community' fish in my tank. Different tanks, different results. It's the way it is.

A short while back I changed my lighting settings from Saxby to BRS AB+. I do like the 'look' of the AB+ settings. They are not as harsh as the Saxby settings and they do appear to bring out the coral colours much more. The main benefit is with coral growth. I can really see a big leap forward in this area. Every single coral appears to have grown much quicker than before. I'm really happy with the change so far.
 

Pancho75

Well-Known Member
Yes, the chromis always go Highlander as they mature. I also stopped having them in my tank.

I am curious about the BRS AB+ adoption, when I tried it it was too difficult for my corals to adapt. Would share a screen shot please?
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
Yes, the chromis always go Highlander as they mature. I also stopped having them in my tank.

I am curious about the BRS AB+ adoption, when I tried it it was too difficult for my corals to adapt. Would share a screen shot please?
A screen shot of the settings? I may be an IT Professional but that is asking a lot of me :) I shall try.
 

Pancho75

Well-Known Member
Wow those light settings are different from the ones I tried before!

I guess there are a lot of BRS AB+ settings flying around in internet. The settings are somehow similar to what I have except for the RY and B channels that I have it similar to the UV. Maybe even your max peaks are about 120 in UV while I peak in 105.

Are your LPS doing fine with these settings?

In the other hand, I have zero experience with the fairy wrasses.
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
No notifications again, sorry I haven’t been ignoring you in your time of need! Well I have because I was on a beach in a vodka coma with no notifications! Lol

Did you get the parts for the Vectra or do you still need help ?
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
If you haven’t sorted the pump yet, the principal is exactly the same as what I did with the Abyzz a200. My output was 40mm so there is an additional piece from 40-32 reduced which you won’t need.

Also you will see the pipe on the input of the Abyzz. This is a 50mm socket coupler (the input is 50mm) and this causes a straight flow of water and helps make the pump silent. So it may be worth getting a 40mm socket coupler for the L2 for the same reason. The L2 is 38mm input

If you look at the picture below, the union connector is there so the pump can easily be removed/replaced. It just screws off.

So with your L2 the output is 31.75mm so the first connector would be a 32mm socket coupler. This needs to be solvent welded onto the pump.

https://charterhouse-aquatics.com/shop/aquatics/fittings/sockets/32mm-socket-coupler

Then you insert a small length of 32mm pvc pipe into the socket coupler and then into a 32mm union connector

https://charterhouse-aquatics.com/shop/aquatics/fittings/adaptor-unions/adaptor-union-32mm

I haven’t measured the internal diameter of the manifold pipe your connecting to, but if 32mm pvc pipe will fit straight in, reasonably tightly, then you just get another piece of pipe from the top of the union connector into the manifold pipe. If not just confirm the internal measurement.

I used Marine grade S316 steel hose clips rather than plastic and they shouldn’t rust. There also not below the surface here, but on the S650 you might be best with plastic as it’s submerged. You can buy plastic worm drives as well.

And if you have never used solvent weld before, ask me BEFORE you get the glue out how to do it, because you get one shot. It’s called ‘weld’ for a reason. I was particularly nervous my first time solvent welding a piece of 45p pipe to a £1600 pump! Lol

This is what I used but they do smaller tubs. You will also need a good pvc pipe cutter

https://charterhouse-aquatics.com/s...glues-and-cleaners/tangit-adhesive-1000ml-can

B6D87943-2BE4-4594-9229-122926A8393F.jpeg
 
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Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
In the meantime...the NYOS Torq.

I am having to look again at the glowing recommendation I gave it earlier, and it's not good.
There does seem to be a basic design flaw that doesn't show itself initially. Basically, the two types of media are separated by a hard bit of plastic with holes in it and a sponge. The sponge sits on top of the plastic bit, with the media on top of the sponge. Then a gap to the next plastic/sponge/media combo. There is a problem in that the sponge quickly gets full of the media with the result that the water cannot pass through. This builds up pressure with the result that normally the sponge gets pushed up and the media falls down. This happens to both the Carbon and the Rowophos.
So adapt, improvise and overcome.
Next, I put the Carbon into a bag before placing it in the Torq. I felt this was ok as the Carbon doesn't need to 'dance' or be fluidized. This would stop the Carbon from blocking it's sponge. The result of this little experiment didn't go too well as after about four days I found the Torq body had completely been 'blown off' and was laying on it's side in the sump with Rowophos everywhere.
Now, you can adjust the power of the pump feeding the water through and I must say at this point that I had it set very low as I have since I first used the Torq.
I have now lost all confidence in the Torq. I never know when I look into my sump if I'm going to find it sat upright and working nicely, or on it's side with media all over the sump.
The 'mechanism' that holds the body onto the docking station is not very good. The body can become loose from the docking station. Pressure builds up if the sponges get clogged, which they do very easily. Once that pressure reaches a critical point either the sponges 'tip up' and you have a mixture of Carbon and Rowophos in the reactor or the whole body is detached from the docking station.
I shall send an e-mail to NYOS to try to find out if they have many people having the same problems and if there is anything they would recommend to fix them.

At this point in time I'm considering just going back to basics and putting the carbon in a bag and putting it in it's usual position just before the return pump chamber and putting the Rowophos into the old D-D Reactor.
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
.

At this point in time I'm considering just going back to basics and putting the carbon in a bag and putting it in it's usual position just before the return pump chamber and putting the Rowophos into the old D-D Reactor.

What you mean like I do! Lol

It might be worth rinsing the sponges if you can get to them after the media is in. Rhowaphos fines can easily clog the sponge (I’m assuming your rinsing in the reactor rather than before adding it) and I sometimes do this with my Deltec FR509 depending on how much I’m using. However, this hasn’t exploded ‘yet’!
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
Once the media is in you cannot get to the sponges. I do give everything a thorough rinse out when I replace the media. I can basically take the whole thing apart easily to clean it. However, I don't want to replace the media every week which is as long as it takes before the sponges clog up.
To sum up the Torq it looks like a great idea, the unit looks good, but it is giving me a headache which is something I don't want. Maybe it is destined to be one of those bits of kit we buy, and then discard after using it for a while. Live and learn eh! Sometimes we forget about KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid).
The thing about the Deltec FR509 is that the top is screw on. That baby is not coming off. With the Torq everything is 'pushed' on using an O Ring as the seal, and this doesn't appear to have much stopping power.
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="Nobbygas, post: 1351048, member: 26294"
The thing about the Deltec FR509 is that the top is screw on. That baby is not coming off. With the Torq everything is 'pushed' on using an O Ring as the seal, and this doesn't appear to have much stopping power.[/QUOTE]

Have you not heard of lubricant. Well you probably have, but you can also use it on your fish tank ‘equipment’ as well! Lol

Get some food grade silicon grease. I use it on both the NYOS 160 skimmer cup and also the Deltec and it stays as smooth as silk.
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
No, it's not that. Both the top and bottom of the Torq are 'push on'. The O Ring is supposed to not only stop the water but provides the tight fit. I have already replaced the O Ring on the bottom (free from NYOS) but the whole design is flawed. Once any pressure builds up from the clogging sponges, then the whole unit pops from either the top or the bottom.

As for the 'other' lubricant, I find it leaves a nasty smell in the air when it overheats !
 
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