I think my tank may be infected?

jls13

New Member
I am new to saltwater tanks (and aquariums in general). I've been told that white poop signifies internal parasites. Well, I just noticed that my dwarf flame angel has white poop hanging (see pic) and I have a juvenile clownfish which hasn't eaten in two days. Can someone with more experience than myself suggest cause as well as best treatments? Thanks in advance!
 

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Uncle99

Well-Known Member
Does the FA eat normal?
How long has this fish been with you?

The clown, yup, not eating, that's not good.

The stop eating thing can be associated with a parasite like Ick or velvet buts it's impossible to accurately diagnose without visual identification.

It might be a good idea to put him in QT and treat with Prazi or similar.
Lower salinity to 1.019 in the QT will help him breath easier.

Continue to try and feed....watch for white spits.....if you see any....I would use copper as it treats both Ick and velvet.

The FA, except for the poop, is all normal?
 

jls13

New Member
The angel is very active (had trouble snapping that pic as he was busy with his LR routine). MY tank is only about 4 months old. I've had the angel for a couple of months and the clown for about a month. The clown also seems to be behaving normal as well. He is the male of a pair and follows the female everywhere.

I do not currently have a QT. I could set one up but my guess is it would not be ready in time?

Can I dose my entire tank? My assumption not good for all the good bacteria already established. How about the other fish and inverts?

I cannot use copper with the inverts correct?

Is it ok to separate the clownfish pair? Will they return to a pair when reintroduced?

Thanks again for your help
 

jls13

New Member
btw, the clownfish's appearance is fine visually. Nothing out of the ordinary with how he looks or is behaving ( besides the fact he has stopped eating)
 

Uncle99

Well-Known Member
A QT is a tank, a sponge filter and heater maybe a desktop lamp

Does not require cycle but you must do a small WC daily and vacum out stuff to keep ammonia in check,

Never dose meds in the DT

Copper kills everything, sometimes fish as well, only use in isolation

Based on what I read, I would do nothing but watch the Flame.

The pairing no worries it’s only temp, but keep in mind if parasites do show, treat all fish even if you don’t see any dots
 

jls13

New Member
So are you saying you wouldn't even QT the clown at this point (he is the third pairing my female...I'm not sure if I can pair her up again so would hate to lose him)

Also, what I failed to mention yesterday (and I noticed again this morning) is that the clown will sometimes attempt to eat but will always spit the food back out. I have tried multiple foods (pellets, frozen, flakes) and all appear to have the same result. Have you experienced something like this?
 
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Uncle99

Well-Known Member
IMO, I cannot treat if I can’t diagnose, the fish is just not eating, no heavy breath, no glassy eyes, no spots, no scraping, no head swimming at power head, just stopped eating

My question is what “was” he eating before he stopped?

Was he an aggressive eater?

Clowns are not to picky, so if hungry, he should eat every time you drop food.

Yes, eat and spit, seen that, if it’s normal food given, that causes some concern, if new introduction, just might not like it or texture.

I understand you not wanting to lose but I can’t tell what he has if anything. The only thing you can do is treat with the broadsptrem like prazi but only in isolation

I doubt a temporary stay in QT would break the bond.

You can always QT both

If he continues not to eat well, he should come out to QT for the safety of the DT, then, lower salinity to 1.019 in QT and try to feed just one piece at a time with a syringe and rigid airline tube, like feeding a baby, only the original food he ate.

Remember, when the fish comes out of QT, you must increase the salinity slowly,like .001 per day until you reach target DT salinity day 1.025 ish.
 
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jls13

New Member
Yes, he was initially a pretty aggressive eater (he is juvenile and I've only had him for about 2- 3 weeks). He ate pellets and frozen. Now he looks like he wants to eat but rarely takes anything into his mouth (just sort of watches and chases behind the female). When he does take something in he spits it out. Other than the non-eating he acts and looks fine ( I tried coating the food in one of those garlic products this morning...he still did not eat). But we are 3 days in of not eating anything.

Would you let him be in the DT for a couple of more days before isolating based on the fact he is acting fine?
Have you tried anything like Artemiss which can be used to dose the DT?
I am having trouble setting up the QT tank and getting the pH similar to DT. The DT is around 8.2 and the QT is 8.4. Is this OK?
Can I use the water from DT in the QT even though it is probably infected or is there something I should use to decrease the QT pH?
Someone I know reccomended dose the QT with General Cure since I cannot get him to eat. Is that similiar to what you mention above or should I use prazi or copper?

Thanks again...really appreciate the help.
 

Uncle99

Well-Known Member
Three days with nothing eaten is getting to my edge of pulling from DT.
My Male doesn't eat much in compare to the female, in my case, this coincides with pre-breeding, but he does eat a little each time and remains strong.

The number a days not eating combined with an eat and spit does cause me concern as it's clearly not normal. No change in one more day, I would isolate him in QT, there we can control his environment.

Theirs no question in my mind that both Ick, as well as velvet, can cause fish to stop eating as both can infect the gills before showing up on the flesh. But, they are not the only reason for sure.

So.

Do not use copper unless you KNOW you have Ick or velvet, and if used, only in isolation and in amounts stated by the manufacture.
You can use hypo for Ick, but not velvet.
Forget dosing the DT with anything, for now, no changes to DT.
Never use DT water, virus, bacterial infections, parasites are in this water, keep in mind the Q is for quarantine.
Forget the PH
Glass, water salinity, temp same as DT, (but I lower my QT salinity to 1.019-1.020 as this salinity is much easier for the fish to process, so less stress, something to hide in is important, keep lighting low.
You mush watch ammonia, because the QT is not cycled,but if you do a 1O% WC daily and vacuums up poop and uneaten food, no reason to cycle.

To me Prazi is a " general " cure, a broad spectrum, good for bacterial infections, useless on parasites, but, again, you have yet to see a parasite.
If he does have, they will multiply and you will see them along with lathargic behaviour, rapid breathing, glassy eyes, white dots.

Based on what I read, I would try only one more day, if not eating, pull him as he will weaken and this is where parasites take hold. Keep him in new water 1.019-1.020 salinity, normal temp, OK for "general cure". Keep in mind that a side effect these broad spectrum cures is suppressed eating but if he's not eating to begin with, I certainly would employ this

There's a member call Humblefish on this site which just wrote (fenbendazole) on intestinal type medications, it may be of help to read and will be interesting if he chimes in here

I hope this gives you some choices.
 
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edcarras71

New Member
Believe it or not Ginger power is the best thing you can use to cure most all diseases in your aquarium will not hurt Corals or inverters.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Uncle99

Well-Known Member
Sorry, not following the link here?
Last post was April under a different user?

Can you start a new thread with your questions?
 
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