Removing cyano or comparative algae

[vsiege]

I'm having, now a long standing issue with dark orange , more like brown, algae. Attached are 2 photos.

To combat this, I'm feeding less, changed the substrate (!!@!), and doing water changes. I've also purchased a different brand of carbon, which I now have two bags from the 2 different companies.

I do not have a test for phosphates but i did test for nitrates (0 - .5 ppm) and ph (8.2). While, my testing could be off or wrong, I've had no livestock issues.

Any thoughts? Reduce lighting schedule? LED: Whites from 7am - 8pm, blue from 4pm - 12pm

 

[DaveK]

I just mad an extensive post on algae control - here is the link to that post - http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forum/...ltration-recommendations.100642/#post-1342509

(Corrected the above link. It now goes to the correct post)

In addition, you need to get a phosphate test kit. However, just because the readings are low, this does not mean you do not have a nitrate and/or phosphate issue. The problem algae is consumeing them and growing.

How much water are you changing? Are you using RO/DI water to mix your salt? Test your source water as this can often be the source of the problem. Also test the newly mixed SW, just in case.

What foods are you feeding? Dry foods like flakes or pellets contain a lot of nitrates and phosphates.

Your problem was a long time in forming. It's going to take a long time to resolve. Changing carbon usually doesn't effect this issue unless your were using some really bad carbon that leached nitrates or phosphates.

If you have not done so, I would add GFO to the filtration system, using a reactor if possible. I'd also add a nitrate removal media to the system. This could be done in several different ways using different media.

Consider adding a refugium or an algae scrubber to remove nitrates and phosphates.

I highly recommend against using any of the red algae removal products. Yes, they will kill this problem algae, but unless you fix the underlying problems, all you will do is get another, different, harder to deal with, problem algae in it's place.

 

[vsiege]

Excellent post and I'm thankful for the reply.

Water - i have a 5 stage BRS system with a TDH meter. I change 5 gallons of week. I have a 37 gallon with plenty of live rock, so it's most likely closer to twenty something gallons with displacement. I have a HOB marineland filter as well as an oversized HOB reef octopus skimmer. I don't have a sump unfortunately. If i get a GFO reactor, I'm guessing everything would have to change. I wish i could drill the tank. I wouldn't mind the HOB overflows, but they up the price considerably. If i had a bud in the hobby in LA, that could assist, that would be great. Maybe a reactor on the back could be applied, then i could just rework the power cords. In the end, my guess is that i would also need a new stand ro store equipment below. That's a bit od a mind dump but i understand changes provoke other changes and I'm due in for a few ro get this squashed, settled.

Phosphates - yes, i will purchase a kit. Posted anpther thread to get a feel for what people have had a good experience with.

Foods- i feed frozen mysis and blood worms, flakes, and pellets. I rotate. I'm guessing the flakes and pellets i should stop.

Thanks for your other thoughts on the fuge and such as well. I would love one but not having a sump makes that challenging. Appreciate it.