Courtney's Red Sea Reefer 350

Oxylebius

Well-Known Member
Bicolor blennies can become molten in color (white splotchy) when sleeping and stressed, but your picture doesn't look like that. Do the white spots ever go away. I ask b/c the molten in color (white splotchy) would come and go. If not, I'd say that it is ich.
 

Courtney

Well-Known Member
I remember he went white and blotchy when I moved tanks as that must have stressed him out erm I think I have seen with a few which went away then they came back. I have also seen a few white spots on the fins of my pair of firefish.

Will keep and eye on them and update on here but if it is ich what is my best course of action as far as any kind of medication or treatment seeing as I have coral and don't have a quarantine tank to transfer the sick fish to.
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
Thanks I'll have a read. I wouldn't mind having a small QT tank set up somewhere for this type of thing have to see if I have the space to get one going.
I have no real knowledge of fish disease but if I had an issue I would try Poly Lab Medic as my first port of call, although i haven’t needed to as yet. I read up on all of this when @Nobbygas had issues and my LFS keep it as well. What they did say is don’t panic as sometimes with feeding etc the fish can fight it off naturally.

Do you know the history of the fish ? Ie how long the shop had it and were they got it from, and if from a wholesales did they have full QT procedures in place ?

You could also start looking at running a UV-C to help kill of any floating ‘nasties’ in the water column. I run one 24/7 since I set up tank.
 
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Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
Courtney - I had big problems around the beginning of Sept. You can read the details on my thread. After stripping down the tank and setting up an emergency hospital tank I still lost 23 of 26 fish. I would never do this again. If I faced the same scenario I would use medications in the DT, like Polyplab Medic or Ruby Reef Rally. I would not strip down the tank, meaning it would be impossible to catch the fish.
This may sound harsh, but in the future the fish will just have to fight whatever disease comes along while in the DT.
IMHO, the stress caused by stripping down the tank, netting the fish, and then subjecting them to Copper treatment will kill just as many of them as the disease you are trying to stop/cure !
 

Courtney

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the replies I have seen Poly Lab Medic before so I will see if my LFS keeps it if not I'll order a bottle never heard of Ruby Reef Rally. I'll also have a look into a UV light as used to run one on our first marine tank.

I get all of my fish from Maidenhead Aquatics and I know they get there fish from TMC and my local store has always been really good. I have had my bicolour blenny for well over a year if not two already.

Yeah I mean having a QT tank sounds great but it's having the time, space and money to have another tank running in the event of an issue. I have had a couple of issues before and used to just dose medicine to my DT and things got better.
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
It's been mentioned on here before. We all know a QT tank is the best way to go, however, and I'm not alone in this, but I don't have the time or resources for a QT. My DT is my hobby, however, it doesn't run my life.

With the UV, my outbreak happened when my cheap Chinese UV had broken, so no UV was running. Coincidence? Maybe, maybe not, but I now have a reliable UV-C running 24/7.
 

Courtney

Well-Known Member
Yeah I know exactly what you mean. I love this hobby but don't always have enough time in the day or resources to get everything right.

What UV-C units are good then? As my original one was made by TMC
 
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Pat24601

Well-Known Member
It sounds like you aren’t sure what you have yet, which is pretty much one of the big problems with fish diseases. If you aren’t sure what you have, how do you treat it?

Like @Nobbygas, I recently went through an incident which I am going to say was Marine Ich, but I’m not sure it really was. I did something fairly high risk and it came back to bite me. First time in 4.5 years, but I knew I was bringing in a fish from a risk source.

Regardless, I set up a hospital tank. I like the tank I used, It was this one from a Fluval:http://a.co/hokaCus.

I’m not sure if I would do that again or not. It is very stressful on sick fish. My good LFS recommends just giving the fish good nutrition to help them fight off disease. The suggest adding vitachem to the food. Http://a.co/heOS7rV.

In a lot of cases, I think really you are in trouble either way.

I used Seachem Paraguard in my display prior to setting up the hospital, but because I then changed and set up the hospital and used copper, I don’t know if the paraguard would have worked, I liked what I read about it.

I think if I were doing it again I would not set up a hospital tank, but I’m not sure. The hospital tank is very stressful on the fish and causes it’s own problems. Maybe it would depend on what I have in the tank.
 

Courtney

Well-Known Member
Was wondering if I was to dose Polyp Lab Medic for what I think is ich would that do my fish any harm if it wasn't ich as I'm not sure if that is exactly what they have.
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
Medic does claim to treat Ich and Velvet.

One of the biggest problems I came across was identifying just exactly what disease the fish had. Whether it's ich, velvet or flukes the symptoms are pretty similar. If only someone provided a service where you could send a liter of your tank water for analysis to identify just what disease is present it would make things a lot easier.
 

Courtney

Well-Known Member
As wasn't sure if dosing Medic would do the fish any harm if they didn't have ich. Like us taking medicine when we don't have a cold.

Yeah that would be a great service I'm surprised the company's that test your water quality don't do that as well
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
I'm told by both my LFS's that the Tropical Marine Centre have their own very intense quarantine procedures before the fish even get to the shop. That's what i've been told anyway, and I can only go on that and trust. I spend a lot with them and they always tell me if I want something and its not ready or suitable.

And I don't run a QT and nor will I. Not because I don't have the time or resources, I have both, but because Ive read a lot about fish immunity on here and elsewhere, including one of the oldest tanks around, and I agree that they should be able to build up resistance to the diseases they are likely to encounter rather than being put in a sterile, isolated tank, stressed out and then treated with who knows what just in case us humans think they 'might' have something. And then put them in the tank and they die because they cant fight off disease of some sort.

If I ever have an issue, I wouldn't hesitate to use one of the modern reef safe medications. Its 2017/18 not 1970 and if you read the reviews they will generally give you an idea of effectiveness, or not and then you can make an informed judgement.

I read up a lot on diseases and in addition to constantly running a UV-C, I also feed the fish at least every other day with Gamma Frozen cubes which include a garlic supplements which has been shown to potentially kill parasites including marine ich and you can read up on all of this.

Ive been advised to give them a well fed and healthy, mixed diet, and I give them the best i can as well as keeping their environment were it should be and that's what ive done.

I also have the JBL Pro Cristal - 36W UV-C (aka The Rocket Launcher) same as @Nobbygas (because he likes to copy me! lol) but you can probably get away with a smaller version or different type. Go as high as you can on the W that will fit somewhere in the tank because the more W, the more killing power. And run it 24/7.
 

Courtney

Well-Known Member
Well I have ordered some selcon and vitachem which I managed to find and garlic guard and will get the medic as well.

Then I think once Christmas is over I will get the Apex unit a kamoer x4 doser and a UV unit so best start saving now haha [emoji23]
 
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