endosidney
New Member
I just have to pipe in.....I set up the 500S LED a few months ago. I found the C-Skim a total waste of time and energy. It s also prohibitively loud. I replaced it with the Vertex 180i which is incredible.
Shaun's 2000 Litre (530 USG) Living Reef & Red Sea Max S 650 LED Design & Build
- Thread starter SPR
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SPR
Well-Known Member
Hi Nobbygas
Don't have any noise issues as such but if you do just make sure nothing is resonating or touching the skimmer as such. I had never had a large tank before so when I first installed it I could obviously hear the noises it made but now I find it sort of soothing and don't notice it really. It means it's working! Lol!
I have the C Skim still yes. I had same issues as you when I set it up. Just make sure the Red valve feed from the main pump is at 1/3 open to start with to control the flow into the skimmer and then adjust the flow control valve on the skimmer. It's best to set about 2-3 hours after feeding then try and leave it alone
For the first month or so i was adjusting it all the time as sometimes it looked like it wasn't skimming but if the water is clean it won't do much at all. I'd turn it up, then down when it overskimmed, then up down.... however it has been fine since I set it as above and only touch it occasionally.
SPR
Well-Known Member
I've read all sorts on skimmers and everyone has their favourites etc. The C Skim is roughly £300 and if I recall I saw some with bells and whistles at around £700.
I'm still learning so don't have any experience with different brands but for the moment I trust Red Sea completely and if they feel it's good enough for their flagship tank then that's good enough for me. If I have any problems with anything including the skimmer I call Kevin at Red Sea who has guided me as to what I need to do. Including setting the valve etc as for Nobbygas above. That's invaluable to me and if I put something else in the tank then.....
SPR
Well-Known Member
Just a bit of an update on my auto top off expansion tank etc
I was using the very basic Mato 200P but unfortunately this failed on 2 occasions over a period of days were the pump water float switch turned on and then didn't turn off. The first time I thought it was the fish splashing that caused water on the floor but then a few nights later I heard it kick on and then heard water coming out of the top of the auto top off tank which is were it was fed into as per the previous picture.
So the Mato is now in the bin. Very functional but unfortunately not up to the job for these bigger tanks in my opinion. It may have been the constant switching on and off due to the evaporation rate but I really don't know. My son still uses my original one in his Max E260 that I gave him without issue
I have installled the Tunze Osmolator which seems to be the best from what I have read and been advised etc and has several fail safe functions built in along with optical sensor as the prime sensor and then a float switch as secondry fail safe and then if it pumps for 10 minutes it then shuts down.
I have also installed it so that the sensors and water pipe are located in the return section of the sump so now the Tunze is the primary auto top off and then if this fails or runs out of water the built in Red Sea float valve will kick back in as I'll keep that full. Every month or so I'll turn the Tunze off and use the Red Sea float system to make sure the water stays fresh in the built in tank compartment.
All in all my plastic bucket and the Tunze I think will last at least 2 to 2 1/2 weeks and then another 4 days or so from the in tank compartment. It also makes maintenance easier as I just fill the plastic bucket when needed so not very often now.
I was using the very basic Mato 200P but unfortunately this failed on 2 occasions over a period of days were the pump water float switch turned on and then didn't turn off. The first time I thought it was the fish splashing that caused water on the floor but then a few nights later I heard it kick on and then heard water coming out of the top of the auto top off tank which is were it was fed into as per the previous picture.
So the Mato is now in the bin. Very functional but unfortunately not up to the job for these bigger tanks in my opinion. It may have been the constant switching on and off due to the evaporation rate but I really don't know. My son still uses my original one in his Max E260 that I gave him without issue
I have installled the Tunze Osmolator which seems to be the best from what I have read and been advised etc and has several fail safe functions built in along with optical sensor as the prime sensor and then a float switch as secondry fail safe and then if it pumps for 10 minutes it then shuts down.
I have also installed it so that the sensors and water pipe are located in the return section of the sump so now the Tunze is the primary auto top off and then if this fails or runs out of water the built in Red Sea float valve will kick back in as I'll keep that full. Every month or so I'll turn the Tunze off and use the Red Sea float system to make sure the water stays fresh in the built in tank compartment.
All in all my plastic bucket and the Tunze I think will last at least 2 to 2 1/2 weeks and then another 4 days or so from the in tank compartment. It also makes maintenance easier as I just fill the plastic bucket when needed so not very often now.
SPR
Well-Known Member
Just a bit of an update as I haven't written for a while but the tank is all good, the Tunze auto top off is working perfectly and I have been auto dosing with a Kamoer doser for around 4 months and most parameters are stable. I does NoPox, Reef Foundations A B and C
I have been using NoPox from the very start and the Nitrates were always around 1-2ppm
Over the period of a month or so I had an outbreak of hair algea which I am still battling. The phosphates have gradually increased from when I set up the tank very slowly from 0.02 to levels of around 1.6ppm which I think is the cause of the algea. After researching and taking advice I have had to resort to getting a Deltec FR509 reactor and running Rhowaphos along side. This brought the phosphate under control immediately
I have been removing the hair algea with a toothbrush gradually and I think this has resulted in a Nitrate increase as after the first round these went up to around 5ppm and after the second scrubbing 10ppm.
I am aware that NoPox needs some phosphate to work its magic so am just trying to balance it all out and get under control
I think with the toothbrush, additional clean up crews and Nitrate/phosphate control I am getting it beaten and may also do a 3 day blackout to finish it off!
Oh and today I just ordered another 5kg of live rock to beef up the rock work etc so I can get more corals.
Oh and I nearly forgot, I have discovered fragging by accident. I broke of a piece of coral by accident so stuck it to a rock and it grew so free corals!
I have been using NoPox from the very start and the Nitrates were always around 1-2ppm
Over the period of a month or so I had an outbreak of hair algea which I am still battling. The phosphates have gradually increased from when I set up the tank very slowly from 0.02 to levels of around 1.6ppm which I think is the cause of the algea. After researching and taking advice I have had to resort to getting a Deltec FR509 reactor and running Rhowaphos along side. This brought the phosphate under control immediately
I have been removing the hair algea with a toothbrush gradually and I think this has resulted in a Nitrate increase as after the first round these went up to around 5ppm and after the second scrubbing 10ppm.
I am aware that NoPox needs some phosphate to work its magic so am just trying to balance it all out and get under control
I think with the toothbrush, additional clean up crews and Nitrate/phosphate control I am getting it beaten and may also do a 3 day blackout to finish it off!
Oh and today I just ordered another 5kg of live rock to beef up the rock work etc so I can get more corals.
Oh and I nearly forgot, I have discovered fragging by accident. I broke of a piece of coral by accident so stuck it to a rock and it grew so free corals!
SPR
Well-Known Member
Ive posted a few up to date photos below for you taken today.
The tanks been running since June 2016 and apart from a couple of months with a small Max 260 this is my first real tank of any kind. Never even had a goldfish! (Well I did aged about 7!)
Oh and after nearly 10 months i have finally found out how to make the AI hydra lights auto change colour. I had the easy setup on so every time i tried to add program points it kept trying to go back to the easy setup settings. You will know what i mean if you have these lights!! Duuurrrr!
Today ive added around 10kg of extra rock and built up the rockwork a bit. More substantial now and more room for corals!
!
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The tanks been running since June 2016 and apart from a couple of months with a small Max 260 this is my first real tank of any kind. Never even had a goldfish! (Well I did aged about 7!)
Oh and after nearly 10 months i have finally found out how to make the AI hydra lights auto change colour. I had the easy setup on so every time i tried to add program points it kept trying to go back to the easy setup settings. You will know what i mean if you have these lights!! Duuurrrr!
Today ive added around 10kg of extra rock and built up the rockwork a bit. More substantial now and more room for corals!
!
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SPR
Well-Known Member
Thanks Nobby!
The flame angel is very peaceful and just swims around minding his own business most of time and is stunning. Very colourful and never goes near corals other than maybe picking a bit of algea.
SPR
Well-Known Member
I have just purchased a new NYOS Quantum 160 skimmer for the tank and will be installing it in the next few days
I have done months of research on protein skimmers for a replacement to the C Skim. It's been recommended by various parties and finally both my local and a well know London LFS recommended it without any input from me and both without hesitation
It can be dismantled in minutes to do a proper clean and I have taken it to pieces and rebuilt it as you have to put the pump in place and it's a delight!
I have to say the build quality and design is a piece of 'art' and enjoy the following if you want to have a look...
I'll do an update once I've got it up and running..
I have done months of research on protein skimmers for a replacement to the C Skim. It's been recommended by various parties and finally both my local and a well know London LFS recommended it without any input from me and both without hesitation
It can be dismantled in minutes to do a proper clean and I have taken it to pieces and rebuilt it as you have to put the pump in place and it's a delight!
I have to say the build quality and design is a piece of 'art' and enjoy the following if you want to have a look...
I'll do an update once I've got it up and running..
Last edited:
SPR
Well-Known Member
Ive installed the NYOS and its up and running and looks like it's working a treat out of the box but early days yet as maybe will need tweaking once the skim starts being produced
A few pictures of the sump..
PS. If your wondering why there are 2 large hermit crabs in the left hand sump it's because I added some large shells to the tank months ago when I started so the crabs could move into them.
What I didn't realise is that the hermit crabs would also grow to fill them and then decide that they need a little more meat in their diet and start killing snails, crabs etc.
So those 2 have been put into solitary confinement and on 'keep my sump clean of debris duties' (On advice from LFS!)
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A few pictures of the sump..
PS. If your wondering why there are 2 large hermit crabs in the left hand sump it's because I added some large shells to the tank months ago when I started so the crabs could move into them.
What I didn't realise is that the hermit crabs would also grow to fill them and then decide that they need a little more meat in their diet and start killing snails, crabs etc.
So those 2 have been put into solitary confinement and on 'keep my sump clean of debris duties' (On advice from LFS!)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SPR
Well-Known Member
Yes there is loads more room in there you will be amazed what a difference it makes. It's like turning a light on!
I took out the c Skim shelf and the NYOS sits on the bottom at a slight angle so plenty of flow into it and I would say it's completely silent. I've just turned it on and off before writing and i couldn't tell the difference once running. I have kept the shelf as my water is at 23-24cm instead of 22 so I will leave for a while and then if need be cut the shelf down to size a bit and put it under the NYOS. The NYOS has rubber feet to also aid its silence.
The C Skim is a beast to lift out as it fills most of the gap. I had to take it out of right hand side as my rocket launcher (UVC) is on the left! Forgot what a beast it is and it's currently in the garage awaiting sale.
The NYOS cable is not long enough to reach the front power socket (were the standard skimmer sticker is) so I've plugged the heaters were the skimmer was and plugged the skimmer into the back plug were the heaters were as it just reaches. So be aware of this or get an extension cable ready. Why they don't put an extra metre of cable I don't know!
I've left the C Skim green pipe in and tied it to the front post as I may change how I run Rhowaphos in the Deltec reactor. It's currently on a separate pump with makes it easy to rinse the new rowa and I do it during a water change.
I drained down entire sump and cleaned it out with my Python water changer so about as clean as it's ever been since running.
It was actually a very good reminder of how the sump it set up as now the c Skim has gone you can see everything in there. I didn't now what I was doing much when I set the tank up so it's been quiet helpful.
I took out the c Skim shelf and the NYOS sits on the bottom at a slight angle so plenty of flow into it and I would say it's completely silent. I've just turned it on and off before writing and i couldn't tell the difference once running. I have kept the shelf as my water is at 23-24cm instead of 22 so I will leave for a while and then if need be cut the shelf down to size a bit and put it under the NYOS. The NYOS has rubber feet to also aid its silence.
The C Skim is a beast to lift out as it fills most of the gap. I had to take it out of right hand side as my rocket launcher (UVC) is on the left! Forgot what a beast it is and it's currently in the garage awaiting sale.
The NYOS cable is not long enough to reach the front power socket (were the standard skimmer sticker is) so I've plugged the heaters were the skimmer was and plugged the skimmer into the back plug were the heaters were as it just reaches. So be aware of this or get an extension cable ready. Why they don't put an extra metre of cable I don't know!
I've left the C Skim green pipe in and tied it to the front post as I may change how I run Rhowaphos in the Deltec reactor. It's currently on a separate pump with makes it easy to rinse the new rowa and I do it during a water change.
I drained down entire sump and cleaned it out with my Python water changer so about as clean as it's ever been since running.
It was actually a very good reminder of how the sump it set up as now the c Skim has gone you can see everything in there. I didn't now what I was doing much when I set the tank up so it's been quiet helpful.
SPR
Well-Known Member
On the UVC the water goes in at the top and out of the bottom and the pipe goes into the main pump chamber. It's pumped with Eheim compact 1000 turned to just over half way I think. The Eheim is silent and I've also got one powering the Rhowaphos reactor.
The skimmer change is very straight forward and I have also cut down slightly the c Skim stand/plate and put it under the NYOS just to lift it up a bit and also lowered the sump water level slightly so I think it's about 22cm aprox. Did that today.
You will be amazed at it. The silence. I was sat listening to the slight hummm of the tank last night and I have to say I didn't realise how load (not to bad but you know what I mean) it was before until now. In fact the NYOS is that quiet I keep looking at it to make sure it's on!
It's skimming already so just starting to dial it in to perfection over the next days/weeks but I think it will be very effective. The skim coming out smells foul which it never did before so I assume that's a good sign!
The skimmer change is very straight forward and I have also cut down slightly the c Skim stand/plate and put it under the NYOS just to lift it up a bit and also lowered the sump water level slightly so I think it's about 22cm aprox. Did that today.
You will be amazed at it. The silence. I was sat listening to the slight hummm of the tank last night and I have to say I didn't realise how load (not to bad but you know what I mean) it was before until now. In fact the NYOS is that quiet I keep looking at it to make sure it's on!
It's skimming already so just starting to dial it in to perfection over the next days/weeks but I think it will be very effective. The skim coming out smells foul which it never did before so I assume that's a good sign!
SPR
Well-Known Member
I had an interesting conversation with my LFS over the weekend about the pink torch coral below that died a few months ago.
I had fed it with mysis shrimp for the first time with a long syringe (well my son did) and overnight it passed away.
They asked me if I had any cleaner shrimps, I do I have one, and a few other shrimps. Apparently the Shrimps go after the mysis food and in doing so kill the coral. A new one on me but makes perfect sense as it was doing great until then!
I don't direct feed anymore as it can be costly!
I had fed it with mysis shrimp for the first time with a long syringe (well my son did) and overnight it passed away.
They asked me if I had any cleaner shrimps, I do I have one, and a few other shrimps. Apparently the Shrimps go after the mysis food and in doing so kill the coral. A new one on me but makes perfect sense as it was doing great until then!
I don't direct feed anymore as it can be costly!
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SPR
Well-Known Member
I use reef roids every so often and but mainly use reef energy A and B every day and mix phytoplankton with it every 2-3 days as well.
In fact I haven't added any of it for a while so will use it today. Just seems a bit expensive as I need to add a full teaspoon full and the pot isn't very big!
In fact I haven't added any of it for a while so will use it today. Just seems a bit expensive as I need to add a full teaspoon full and the pot isn't very big!
SPR
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your kind words datahoe! Greatly appreciated.
As you've probably read I have just beefed up the rocks a bit more and made it more substantial.
Which coral were you looking at - I'm not very good with names on them? The LFS tell me but it never seems to sink in!
SPR
Well-Known Member
If you mean the green 'wavy one' centre left then I believe it's called an Australian Duncan Coral.
I've had it since June 2016 and is has grown considerably. I would like to frag it but I'm a little scared of touching it as cutting it into pieces makes me a little nervous. If anyone here can tell me how to do it I'm all ears ??
I've had it since June 2016 and is has grown considerably. I would like to frag it but I'm a little scared of touching it as cutting it into pieces makes me a little nervous. If anyone here can tell me how to do it I'm all ears ??