40g Breeder First SW Tank Setting up.
- Thread starter crystalnjohn
- Start date
Ok, but it is for a return pipe or an overflow pipe?
It's far too small for an overflow pipe. It is likely too small for a return pipe also, but you might get a small pipe diameter to work for a return.
To accommodate a 1 inch overflow pipe, which I would consider to be an absolute minimum, you will need a 1" bulkhead fitting. This required a hole larger that 1 inch. By the way, if you can go to 1 1/4 pipe you can get almost double the flow through it. Of course this requires a larger bulkhead.
Here is a Sch 80 bulkhead for 1 inch pipe (offsite) - https://www.savko.com/partlist.asp?pgid=2&ptid=5&pid=27&part=105010 Note that it requires a 1 7/8 to 2 inch hole to install it.
Here is a lightweight bulkhead for 1 inch pipe (offsite) - https://www.savko.com/partlist.asp?pgid=2&ptid=6&pid=29&part=501010 This bulkhead is the more common one used on tanks and other aquarium related projects, but even it requires a 1 3/4 inch hole.
Generally you do not use a light on a sump, unless it contains a refugium section where you want to grow macro algae. If that is the case, there are several possible configurations you can consider. Like lighting a tank, this comes down to what your trying to do and your budget for lighting. This is one area where you can often go cheep and not have a big problem.
Squatch XXL
Well-Known Member
I was thinking the same.
My experience with my 40b echos @DaveK. If I could go back and "redo" mine I would have used 1" pipe. The only reason that I did not drill larger holes was that I have 2x 3/4" lines for returns. I am only running about 350 gph through the tank from the sump.
crystalnjohn
New Member
Update:
I think I have most of the equipment together to really get the build underway. I'm getting pretty excited. I will be starting with partitioning the sump/refug. Then plumbing everything together. [emoji2] I will post pictures as things come together.
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I think I have most of the equipment together to really get the build underway. I'm getting pretty excited. I will be starting with partitioning the sump/refug. Then plumbing everything together. [emoji2] I will post pictures as things come together.
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crystalnjohn
New Member
Here is my 20g sump/refug partitions. 7 inches for Sock filter, skimmer (I do not have yet but plan on getting one, so I left enough room for it)
Over under partition to refugium, over under to 4 1/2 inch return pump, heater section.
Silicone is still drying.
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Over under partition to refugium, over under to 4 1/2 inch return pump, heater section.
Silicone is still drying.
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crystalnjohn
New Member
Update:
Finally got all the plumbing done.
I've been testing equipment for several hours now every thing seems good to go!! [emoji41]
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Finally got all the plumbing done.
I've been testing equipment for several hours now every thing seems good to go!! [emoji41]
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crystalnjohn
New Member
Here is picture after draining, adding sand, rock and salt.
Waiting for it to clear.
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Waiting for it to clear.
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crystalnjohn
New Member
24 hrs later after water cleared (mostly).
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Great start ! 
crystalnjohn
New Member
Update:
So last night when I checked on my tank and equipment I noticed that my water is still cloudy and I was thinking that maybe my pump or power heads are making a sand storm, then I noticed my hydrometer was reading 1.027 when it was 1.025 2 days ago when I mixed the saltwater, so I was thinking ok I need to change out some water tomorrow. Then when I checked tank this morning there was air bubbles coming into the DT from sump return line. I checked the sump and water level had dropped and my pump was nearly above water. [emoji85] I had to add about a half gallon of water. That's probably not enough to change salt levels any but that's all I had time for before work, will check this afternoon when I get home.
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So last night when I checked on my tank and equipment I noticed that my water is still cloudy and I was thinking that maybe my pump or power heads are making a sand storm, then I noticed my hydrometer was reading 1.027 when it was 1.025 2 days ago when I mixed the saltwater, so I was thinking ok I need to change out some water tomorrow. Then when I checked tank this morning there was air bubbles coming into the DT from sump return line. I checked the sump and water level had dropped and my pump was nearly above water. [emoji85] I had to add about a half gallon of water. That's probably not enough to change salt levels any but that's all I had time for before work, will check this afternoon when I get home.
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crystalnjohn
New Member
Update:
So later that day the power went out and I get a text from my daughter that water was over flowing my sump. I knew that it would happen eventually, I just wasn't sure how much would over flow. Ended up being 2 gallons.
I drilled a hole in the return line so that it would get air and not create a vacuum and pull so much from DT. I added water back into sump and turned everything back on. Water level came back up in DT like normal, then I shut everything back off to test and the hole I drilled worked perfectly! Water level in sump only came up to the trim line.
My hydrometer is still reading 1.027 do you all think that is OK?
Also I've been doing research on remaking the overflow to be more quiet. I'm thinking of going with the Hofer Gurgle Buster design.
Another question I have is about timers for lights and possibly for power heads. The cheap power bars with timers only seem to have 4 outlets that are timer controlled. What are you using?
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So later that day the power went out and I get a text from my daughter that water was over flowing my sump. I knew that it would happen eventually, I just wasn't sure how much would over flow. Ended up being 2 gallons.
I drilled a hole in the return line so that it would get air and not create a vacuum and pull so much from DT. I added water back into sump and turned everything back on. Water level came back up in DT like normal, then I shut everything back off to test and the hole I drilled worked perfectly! Water level in sump only came up to the trim line.
My hydrometer is still reading 1.027 do you all think that is OK?
Also I've been doing research on remaking the overflow to be more quiet. I'm thinking of going with the Hofer Gurgle Buster design.
Another question I have is about timers for lights and possibly for power heads. The cheap power bars with timers only seem to have 4 outlets that are timer controlled. What are you using?
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crystalnjohn
New Member
Update:
So my tank has been set up for a week and 3 days. Water has fully cleared.
And I am seeing diatom bloom on sand.
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So my tank has been set up for a week and 3 days. Water has fully cleared.
And I am seeing diatom bloom on sand.
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mr_tap_water
Well-Known Member
Hi there
I would say yes it's the start of it and will get worse before it gets better, and should burn itself out eventually as long as you keep your water in peak condition you should have no problems further down the line.
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I would say yes it's the start of it and will get worse before it gets better, and should burn itself out eventually as long as you keep your water in peak condition you should have no problems further down the line.
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crystalnjohn
New Member
Update:
On Fri. September 23rd. I went to my LFS and bought 5 Blue leg hermit crabs, and a Bi Color Blenny (black and yellow) the store was really low on fish that day so I didn't have much to chose from. I put them all in DT and all seem to be doing fine. At first Blenny was just hanging out in a hole in the rocks, but now he/she is coming out to eat and swim around a little.
I am thinking about adding something else this weekend but not sure what yet. Ideas?
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On Fri. September 23rd. I went to my LFS and bought 5 Blue leg hermit crabs, and a Bi Color Blenny (black and yellow) the store was really low on fish that day so I didn't have much to chose from. I put them all in DT and all seem to be doing fine. At first Blenny was just hanging out in a hole in the rocks, but now he/she is coming out to eat and swim around a little.
I am thinking about adding something else this weekend but not sure what yet. Ideas?
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mr_tap_water
Well-Known Member
Glad things are working out for you,
Royal gramma are quite colourful and don't grow too big and maybe even a few types of fairy wrasse are worth a look at.
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Royal gramma are quite colourful and don't grow too big and maybe even a few types of fairy wrasse are worth a look at.
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Leandre
New Member
so sorry for the late reply, it may be too late.
the light is fine for what you are doing. but think about your rock work, you wanna have the rocks in a way that they get most of the direct light. not sure what the reflectors are like on this thing. so cant really comment on it. but honestly, 40g this light will cover the whole tank. only real problem is you might get bored of it lol
T5 will grow anything, its bright and covers a large area (depending on reflectors) and thats the problem, its just...on.. you might at some point get some led strip right or a small refuge led and kinds retro fit it so you get some led shimmer on it, really changes the dynamics of the tank, but i guess thats a personal choice. for the price, its really awesome. consider switching to ATI bulbs in the future.
also read that someone gutted their coralife fixture, changed the ballast to ati and retro fitted it with radions. pushed the t5s all the way to the top and bottom to make space. you seem pretty nifty at DIY might be something to consider. i have 6' 220g im running 3x kessil A360s with 4x 80w T5 and i love the shimmer.
another thing you can do is maybe change the bulb from a T5 to a E5, which is a led bulb for T5 fixture. cost like triple the price per bulb but last long time. maybe have the 2x E5 for the full 10 hours photoperiod then have the T5's on for 4 hours of the day, save you money on T5's and gives the corals a more natural light pattern. either way i think your good.
the light is fine for what you are doing. but think about your rock work, you wanna have the rocks in a way that they get most of the direct light. not sure what the reflectors are like on this thing. so cant really comment on it. but honestly, 40g this light will cover the whole tank. only real problem is you might get bored of it lol
T5 will grow anything, its bright and covers a large area (depending on reflectors) and thats the problem, its just...on.. you might at some point get some led strip right or a small refuge led and kinds retro fit it so you get some led shimmer on it, really changes the dynamics of the tank, but i guess thats a personal choice. for the price, its really awesome. consider switching to ATI bulbs in the future.
also read that someone gutted their coralife fixture, changed the ballast to ati and retro fitted it with radions. pushed the t5s all the way to the top and bottom to make space. you seem pretty nifty at DIY might be something to consider. i have 6' 220g im running 3x kessil A360s with 4x 80w T5 and i love the shimmer.
another thing you can do is maybe change the bulb from a T5 to a E5, which is a led bulb for T5 fixture. cost like triple the price per bulb but last long time. maybe have the 2x E5 for the full 10 hours photoperiod then have the T5's on for 4 hours of the day, save you money on T5's and gives the corals a more natural light pattern. either way i think your good.
A Fish Quarantine Process - Step by Step
all the Stickies here are great
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forum/index.php?forums/fish-diseases-treatments.155/
all the Stickies here are great
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forum/index.php?forums/fish-diseases-treatments.155/
Leandre
New Member
Grants, looking good. A few pointers if I may?
First your gonna wanna point them power heads to the surface. This will give you more water sueface agitation that will help gas exchange. It will increase evaporation but it's a good thing. Also corals dont like direct flow on to them. You have 2 very small powerheads. Not sure how you have them powered. But I would add one closet to the back and the other to the front. Give it a circler motion when they alternate.
To do this there are few ways. One use a controller such as the Neptune apex or reef keeper. These are a God send to refers. Control and moniter your tank, turn lights on, pumps on/off heater on when it's cold. Fans on when it's hot etc etc but they are pricey. Reef keeper is alot cheaper, but even a used one may set you $100. Another option is get a wave maker hydro and sicce both make one. The sicce is way better but more expensive. But for the price. You might as well save up more and get a controller.
Eventually your gonna a wanna upgrade these pumps. These will break sooner rather then later. I would recommend DC powerheads. Jeabo do some really cheap affordable ones for like $40 each. Not sure if they synch together but if they do then might worthwhile to get them now for alternative flow and use the ones you have now for dead spots and such.
Also, it looks like you need alot more rock. Unless you planned to understock there doesn't seem to be enough rock handle the bio load. If the minimal look is what you're going for the consider placing rock in your sump. Marine pure do some very porous ceramic cubes that are great for this and the up very little space, be warned that if you add lots of rock now you may start a mini cycle in your tank.
Dump that hydrometer. The thing is useless. Inaccurate and a waste. Get a refractometer, their like $20 from amazon, salinity is something you want to keep right. Don't risk it. It's not worth it.
Your powerheads are ac, so your not gonna have much control over them. If they are currently on a timer, I would say. One on from 6pm till 11am then have both on from 11am till about 6pm. Not sure what timers you are using, but I know the analog one (big dial with groves that you can push down) those are good for power heads. Since you can select the times, albeit on an hourly basis. But better then nothing. Maybe have left on for 1hr, right on for 1hr then both on for an hour and repeat. Seriously if you can afford it. Skip theivestock for now and get some jeabo DC pumps. Way better control.
Diatoms are natures way of saying you have nitrates. But don't worry they will go away. Clean up crew will sort them out NP.
Lighting period. I have mine on a 12 hour cycle. On at 9:30am. Just the leds at 15%, the ramp up to 95% at 12pm. That's when the T5s come on. From 12-4:30pm both the T5s are leds are on. T5s off at 4:30 with just the leds on. They start to ramp down to 15% around 8:30pm the off for the night at 9:30pm. My powerheads kinda follow this cycle except for the 11am where all four are at 100% to give the tank a clean from detritus. For you, I would see what are your personal preferences, what times do you view the tank most. No point having a cycle where the light are off at 6pm, when 6pm is time you have to view the danm thing. So work out a system. You have a 4bulb light right? So do a 10 or a 8 hour cycle. Let's say you view the tank at 6-7pm. With lights out 9pm. Then I would have the two lights come one at 11am, all 4 on from 1-5pm, the 2 on from 5-9pm. This will help the tank warm up from the Jo lights. Having 4 on from the start will be too much too fast for corals.
Again sorry for the long post and I hope this helps.
First your gonna wanna point them power heads to the surface. This will give you more water sueface agitation that will help gas exchange. It will increase evaporation but it's a good thing. Also corals dont like direct flow on to them. You have 2 very small powerheads. Not sure how you have them powered. But I would add one closet to the back and the other to the front. Give it a circler motion when they alternate.
To do this there are few ways. One use a controller such as the Neptune apex or reef keeper. These are a God send to refers. Control and moniter your tank, turn lights on, pumps on/off heater on when it's cold. Fans on when it's hot etc etc but they are pricey. Reef keeper is alot cheaper, but even a used one may set you $100. Another option is get a wave maker hydro and sicce both make one. The sicce is way better but more expensive. But for the price. You might as well save up more and get a controller.
Eventually your gonna a wanna upgrade these pumps. These will break sooner rather then later. I would recommend DC powerheads. Jeabo do some really cheap affordable ones for like $40 each. Not sure if they synch together but if they do then might worthwhile to get them now for alternative flow and use the ones you have now for dead spots and such.
Also, it looks like you need alot more rock. Unless you planned to understock there doesn't seem to be enough rock handle the bio load. If the minimal look is what you're going for the consider placing rock in your sump. Marine pure do some very porous ceramic cubes that are great for this and the up very little space, be warned that if you add lots of rock now you may start a mini cycle in your tank.
Dump that hydrometer. The thing is useless. Inaccurate and a waste. Get a refractometer, their like $20 from amazon, salinity is something you want to keep right. Don't risk it. It's not worth it.
Your powerheads are ac, so your not gonna have much control over them. If they are currently on a timer, I would say. One on from 6pm till 11am then have both on from 11am till about 6pm. Not sure what timers you are using, but I know the analog one (big dial with groves that you can push down) those are good for power heads. Since you can select the times, albeit on an hourly basis. But better then nothing. Maybe have left on for 1hr, right on for 1hr then both on for an hour and repeat. Seriously if you can afford it. Skip theivestock for now and get some jeabo DC pumps. Way better control.
Diatoms are natures way of saying you have nitrates. But don't worry they will go away. Clean up crew will sort them out NP.
Lighting period. I have mine on a 12 hour cycle. On at 9:30am. Just the leds at 15%, the ramp up to 95% at 12pm. That's when the T5s come on. From 12-4:30pm both the T5s are leds are on. T5s off at 4:30 with just the leds on. They start to ramp down to 15% around 8:30pm the off for the night at 9:30pm. My powerheads kinda follow this cycle except for the 11am where all four are at 100% to give the tank a clean from detritus. For you, I would see what are your personal preferences, what times do you view the tank most. No point having a cycle where the light are off at 6pm, when 6pm is time you have to view the danm thing. So work out a system. You have a 4bulb light right? So do a 10 or a 8 hour cycle. Let's say you view the tank at 6-7pm. With lights out 9pm. Then I would have the two lights come one at 11am, all 4 on from 1-5pm, the 2 on from 5-9pm. This will help the tank warm up from the Jo lights. Having 4 on from the start will be too much too fast for corals.
Again sorry for the long post and I hope this helps.