Algae issues :(

Felicia houston

New Member
OK I'm having a red slime issue I think it's gone then it comes back worse than before I have been avoiding chemical treatment with water changes and cleaning it off rocks and now it's on my sand and just doesn't seem to be going away at all, should I resort to the chemical treatment? Its a 75 gal aquarium no coral yet as im having a copper issue thats being delt with, Water parameters have been within standard, feed every other day I'm still new to saltwater aquariums and still learning so all help is greatly appreciated!
 

cracker

Well-Known Member
Hi Felicia, How old is your tank? I have a new 75 . What critters do You have in Your tank?wait until the experts reply before You go with chemical treatments. They will want specifics like filtration, lighting, water parameters etc. What's up with the copper issue?
Oh Ya, welcome to Reef Sanctuary, Lots of friendly people here !
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
In my opinion, you should never ever use one of the red slime algae killer products to attempt to control an algae outbreak. The problem is that if you don't fix what is causing the problem, all you will do is replace one problem algae with a different problem algae.

What is the copper issue your dealing with? This is likely to be a much larger problem than the red slime, and it may be related.

I have poster the following before, but it applicable here. Once we know a bit more about your system, it may be possible to make more specific recommendations.

DaveK's Standard Lecture #2 - Algae Control

Algae control comes down to controlling nitrates and phosphates. If you have a problem with algae it is because these two nutrients are out of control. Do not think that just because your test kits read zero or low values that you do not have a problem. In many cases the algae is removing the nutrients and growing. This is why there is a problem.

Here are possible sources of nitrates and phosphates -

Feeding, especially flake food and not rinsing frozen foods before feeding.
Using tap water to mix salt. Always use RO/DI water for this.
"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.
Low quality carbon can leach nutrients.
Low quality salt can sometimes add nutrients. This is unusual today.
Livestock load on the system

Here are possible ways to remove nitrates and phosphates -

Water changes. Change 1/2 the water and you reduce the nutrients by 1/2.
Skimming. Remove the waste products before the biological filtration need to break then down.
Nitrate and phosphate removal products.
Deep sand beds.
Refugiums.
Algae Scrubbers.

Each of these has advantages and disadvantages. Most people that control algae well use many of the above methods.

There are also other items that can effect algae growth rates.

Good clean up crew.
Other livestock that eats algae.
Low general water quality, especially when the readings are off.

Lighting, sometimes you can reduce it, especially in FO or FOWLR systems.
Old light bulbs. Colors change as they age and this can be a factor.
Water flow. More flow will often help keep algae down.
Manual removal. Very important, especially when there is a big problem.
 

Felicia houston

New Member
I have been forced to use my tap water and here lately there has been copper in my water (had a 30 gal before this one with no issues using the same water) I do plan on installing a RO/DI system but I'm going to have to move here before to long and don't want to have to plumb one in just to have to turn around and do it again at the new house, I am adding a water conditioner to remove the copper from the water until I can get the RO/DI system in, i don't have any reef stores close to buy water from (closest is an hour away) and have to add a gal a day from evaporation, I need to replace my cleanup crew and was going to get some of the crabs they recommend that eats the red slime, snails keep dieing in my tank due to the copper issue now so until I get that fixed on can't get any snails I have a few reef crabs left that have been in there for a wile and it's time to restock.

I really want to avoid chemicals if at all possible as I really don't like using them and hoping I can get everything straightened out soon
 

Therapy

Active Member
As usual, I wholeheartedly agree with Dave. Listen to him. You copper is a huge deal breaker with corals. As is Tap water. You want a fix? Use a RO system. They are very portable. Then say goodbye to many of issues you have or will have. IMO...end of topic.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
I'd say that you have much larger problem with the copper than you do with the red slime.

One of the nasty things about copper is that it gets absorbed by live sand and live rock. If you have not yet done so, test the tank water and your tap water for copper. Copper can be removed by using a media like CupriSorb. You may need to run this for years if the live rock and live sand absorbed any copper. Consider replacing your live rock and live sand when you move.
 

MNRAM

Member
I know you should stay away from using chemicals, but sometimes it's necessary. My problem is; I had green hair algae and along came the gruesome red slime algae. I bought a reactor and some Phosban and feeding every third day, instead of everyday like I was. It's easy to overload feeding, especially since I'm retired and walk by my tank 20 times a day and of course the fish always come to where I'm at around the tank wanting to be fed.

Within a week the gruesome red algae is gone, along with some bubble algae in the gruesome red. The green is floating away little by little to go into my net and down into the sock filter.
I have a dwarf tomato clown that thinks a tuft of green algae is an anemone. So, it spreads algae spores constantly, I'm trying to catch it, but in a 80gal tank full of rocks and corals, it's a tough feat.

So, bottom line is; it's your choice on what/how you want to do to rid your tank of algae. In closing, I have a water softener (which is not that good) and an R/O and still have the enemy within. I went to Water To Go to get water and my Phosphates stay around 0.10. So, now I've been going to my LFS store for water and in the last few water changes, the algae has slowed down. I'm still running Phosban in my reactor, even with the tomato clown is stirring up algae spores. I run it for 4- 5 weeks then take it out. Phosban doesn't kill the algae directly, it starves the algae, but if you still have high Nitrates and Phosphates, it will be a uphill battle.

That is what I do, it's up to you to decide. There will be many more replies, you can count on that. Some will agree and some won't. GOOD LUCK!!
 

mr_tap_water

Well-Known Member
Hi there
Cyano bacteria can sometimes be caused by an imbalance of No3 and Phos.
Could you tell me your what are your readings for these two, also another thing you could try is adding extra flow to your tank this will help keep your nutrients flowing and help towards being filtered out rather than just settling on the floor of your tank allowing nutrients to build up also why adding the extra flow make sure there's no dead spots and keep siphoning off this is just another option worth trying without having to add chemicals. This link also my help understand

http://www.redseafish.com/blog/nitrate-phosphate-reduction-via-carbon-dosing/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

DaveK

Well-Known Member
... This link also my help understand

http://www.redseafish.com/blog/nitrate-phosphate-reduction-via-carbon-dosing/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You need to be very careful reading information supplied by a manufacturer. In may cases they are trying to convince you to use their product, In this case it's NO3PO4-X. Now this isn't a bad product, but I am hard pressed to see how it's all that much better that the other methods mentioned, and yes, I have tried most of them at one time or another.

The bottom line here is that any method you use is going to have advantages and disadvantages. Be sure to consider all the factors involved before you change anything, and that sometimes the best thing to do is nothing.
 

Antics

Active Member
You need to be very careful reading information supplied by a manufacturer.
Absolutely the truth. I think its sad how much snake oil is sold by "reputable" companies in this industry. It's hard to name specifics without causing a lot of debate and anecdotal evidence, but the amount of "my brother's wife's sister's best friend's uncle one did this to solve x, y, and z in his aquarium" speaks volumes about the amount of misinformation that exists. I'm positive a fairly large amount of it comes from manufactures who know they can't be outright challenged by hobbyists.
 

Desmond

Well-Known Member
Daves advise is good advise.
Being honest though using tap water is only going to make things worse. You can get an ro unit that can hook up to a tap and be removed very easy when not in use. I would be getting a ro unit asap and get rid of your problems. As said your live rock and sand may only be fit for the bin now . TAP WATER = very bad in my eyes especially with copper.
 

mr_tap_water

Well-Known Member
You need to be very careful reading information supplied by a manufacturer. In may cases they are trying to convince you to use their product, In this case it's NO3PO4-X. Now this isn't a bad product, but I am hard pressed to see how it's all that much better that the other methods mentioned, and yes, I have tried most of them at one time or another.

The bottom line here is that any method you use is going to have advantages and disadvantages. Be sure to consider all the factors involved before you change anything, and that sometimes the best thing to do is nothing.
I think you've missed understood what I was trying put across as I've stated it's a bacteria not an Algae and the reason behind the link which I stated MY help .was to explain what imbalance meant and that was the reason for the link not to sell a product ,as you see from the rest of my post you will see I was trying to help him with a few suggestions which sometimes can work .I hope this clears things up as I do not want to be stepping on anybody's toes here.[emoji846]
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
Sidebar for anyone new... on RS adding any link or suggesting any brand of product... to help someone is always fine... even if it was not the intent here... the only requirement... is the poster does not have a financial interest in the product, unless they are a RS sponsor :cheers:

unlike some reefing forums, we always try to put the members 1st
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
I think you've missed understood what I was trying put across as I've stated it's a bacteria not an Algae and the reason behind the link which I stated MY help .was to explain what imbalance meant and that was the reason for the link not to sell a product ,as you see from the rest of my post you will see I was trying to help him with a few suggestions which sometimes can work .I hope this clears things up as I do not want to be stepping on anybody's toes here.[emoji846]

To further explain, I have no objection to anything you posted. I did post a warning about trusting information on a vendors site. A vendor is trying to sell you a product. If you look at the page in question, you can see that about 2/3 of the page is pushing a product.
 
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