Par readings

soco

Well-Known Member
Ok everyone I just borrowed a par meter front from the lfs. What kind of readings am I looking/aiming for? This is in a 46gallon bowfront. And the light is on an adjustable chain so I can go up and down. What numbers should I be aiming for. Top middle and bottm?

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chipmunkofdoom2

Well-Known Member
What kind of light do you have? Skimming your thread, it said LEDs, but I just wasn't sure which.

If I had the PAR meter, I'd shoot for the 400s directly below the light 6" below the surface, and mid to low 100s on the sandbed. The numbers in between will be hard to control depending on optics, but I'd want to have high light areas up top and low light on the sand. I don't have any reason to think this way, except when you look at all the pictures of tanks across the Internet, regardless of the light type, this seems to be a common level of PAR throughout the tank.

An important thing to note... almost all LED lights seem "dim" to our eyes, but that's no indication of the actual brightness or PAR levels. Nick Klase gave a great presentation on the details of LED lighting at MACNA 2014, but the long and short is that LED's don't produce green very well. Unfortunately, one of the colors that our eyes use the most to determine if a light source is "bright" or not is green. I think this is one of the reason that so many people were dissatisfied with early LED lights. In addition to not dispersing light as well as MH or T5s, LEDs look inherently dim because of the way they produce green light. As a result, I think many early adopters tried to increase the intensity of the LEDs to match what their old T5s or MH looked like. This ended up being way too much light because our eyes are so biased toward calling green-rich colors "bright", and green deficient colors "dim".

Long story short, you're going about it exactly the right way, with a PAR meter. It's really difficult, especially with LEDs, to tell how much light is too much.
 

cracker

Well-Known Member
Thanks Chipmonk ! That makes good sense . My new LEDS don't look as bright as the M/H lights I was using. I'm about to get my hands on a meter as well.
Thanks soco for bringing up this topic !
 

chipmunkofdoom2

Well-Known Member

cracker

Well-Known Member
Thanks I think I;ll do just that !


Also I found a general rule is 400 near the top and 100 at the sans bad, Just like Chipmunk said.
 

cracker

Well-Known Member
Good afternoon ! today I finally got my hands on a light meter. It's an Apogee Quantum. sure enough I had the lights set way too high. Like over 600 at the surface and over 200 at the bottom.
So I have them fairly adjusted and pleasing to my eye . I have average 350 at 2 inches below the water surface and 140 at the bottom. This sound OK to You? Should I set them a little higher? There is quite a bit of blue in the mix. Do You think the corals need more yellow/white. Prroblem is if I adjust the white/yellows higher. I lose the blue and the tank looks very yellow. can I raise the par a bit to compensate? I'll be back with another round of questions once I figure how to ask them. Thanks
Thanks soco for the thread hijack.
 

cracker

Well-Known Member
I think I will leave the setting alone and see what happens. The few corals I have are bleached out I hope I haven't killed them. Even My toad stool I've had for 15 years won't open. I pray it was the lights were too strong. I should have just stuck with the M/H lights I had they worked just fine ! LOL
 
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