Post your RSM 250 Mods Here!

josepexx

josepexx

Member
Thanks guys ,
Tom it really makes a big difference when fans are off for two hours the Temp reached 106F !!! (I didn't even realized the temp. was so high I just knew it was too hot). When Fans were on for two hours the temp dropped to 79F !!! I am pulling air from outside and those fans really move a lot of air, that's a nice drop in temp but not as the effect it has on the chiller itself. I discovered that so much heat actually heats up the joints/Hose and therefore heats up the water before it gets to the tank that's why the chiller was working much more than it should. Now it is barely turning on and the water temp stays the same at 77.2F~.
 
tnwillia

tnwillia

Well-Known Member
Thats great info on having a chiller in the cabinet, it will help many, It helped me on my new tank planning. Thanks so much!
 
Nowellsy SNR

Nowellsy SNR

Active Member
ccloanshark said:
Here are the pictures at different %. Look more intense in person especially with the blue on only. it makes everything glow. Definitely worth the upgrade...

w100b0rb0.jpg

white 100%, blue 0%,royal blue 0%
w100b100rb0.jpg

white 100%, blue 100 %, royal blue 0%
w100b100rb100.jpg

white 100%, blue 100%, royal blue 100%
w0b100rb100.jpg

white 0%, blue 100%, royal blue 100%
w0b50rb0.jpg

white 0%, blue 50%, royal blue 0%
w0b10rb10.jpg

white 0%, blue 10%, royal blue 10%
w15b20rb20.jpg

white 15%, blue 20%, royal blue 20%
Click to expand...

WOW Looks stunning
 
Ashr

Ashr

Active Member
Courtney said:
I just thought I share what I did with the air flow valve on the RSM 250 skimmer not sure if it has been done before but I think it will give you far better air adjustments on the skimmer.

All I did was open the original air valve on the skimmer to full then inserted a flow control valve between the old valve and the air pipe from the skimmer pump.
Here are some pic to show what I did:

View attachment 19539
Click to expand...



this worked great!! Thank you
 
FCatCH76

FCatCH76

Member
So last night I installed my sol super blues..2 (black casing). I used ccloanshark's method for installing brackets. The middle and two end brackets are already there, you just need to come up with brackets horizontally. I mounted brackets on the actually units and then ran parallel brackets from left to right in the hood. You have to mount these behind the existing brackets or else clearance is non-existent when closing the light shield. So I had to redo my setup. After it was all done... boy do you add some weight to the hood. I did not remove anything from the stock setup, I did this just in case I ever had to go back to T5's. The next thing is slowly acclimating the corals, so I started at a peak % for 4 hrs a day at 40%. Then after staring at the tank I realized I have to buy the 70 degree optics to replace the 40's.

So, once I get the 40's I will make a video of the install and setup...was just in too much of a rush to get these on the RSM250.
 
B

Bingocaller

Member
I have moddet the Sh.. out of my white 250 if I should say so myself :)

DYI led 270 W (closed canopy biuld in) - 3 x dosing pump - sump with refugium - new fans for the ligthing - on/off swithc for the fans - all RSM pumps are out - (left one now Tunze - left one is the return from sump Aquabee 3000) - Tunze 6055 moddet behind the rocks - Vortech MP40W for flow - 3 digital termo located around the tank - Delctec mc 500 skimmer

But best of all - I did it without ruining the design - when the cabinet doors are closed you would not tell the difference :)
 
cindyp

cindyp

Active Member
I wasn't too happy with my RSM 250 its seem to take forever to get the skimmer working properly
but now about 10 months later it's working good the only mods I've done are down sizing the
pumps to 9 times an hour,installed a chiller and replaced the stock bulbs.
everyone is happy including me:)
002-31.jpg

014-20-1.jpg

149-1-1.jpg
 
FCatCH76

FCatCH76

Member
Wanted to post some pics while I waited for the 70 degree optics:
IMG_6916.jpg


IMG_6919.jpg


IMG_6918.jpg


IMG_6917.jpg


I used 3/4" by 3' Aluminum square tube for the rails, cut down to 32 1/2 inches. The 3/4" rail slides in between the heat sink and the plastic frame, creating a rail so you can slide the units left to right. You can run the wires to the back where the aux fan power cable comes out or make a new hole.

I disconnected the ballast from the relays, which allows me to still use the fans on the timer should the units need cooling during the summer. So far I have yet to see or hear the fans turn on, although my max setting is 40%.
 
anheezy

anheezy

Member
Hi guys! i thought id just post this question here since this is a mod thread. Can someone give me a suggestion or advice on how to darken the inner back overflow area to cover up any light from shining into the DT area from the back? I just purchased a clip on bulb to use a grow light for some chaeto i placed in the media area, but the light shines through the back at night. I'm afraid that it might keep the nocturnal creatures from coming out at night or promote unwanted algae growth inside.
 
J

JEMM55

New Member
Has anyone tried to scrape some of the dark covering off the red sea max 250 rear glass to use the innovative marine refugium light?
 
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