Shaun's 2000 Litre (530 USG) Living Reef & Red Sea Max S 650 LED Design & Build

SPR

Well-Known Member
So following a few days thinking, grimacing, and general wincing at the cost, I had a really good idea (he says! Lol). I’ve decided to ditch the Clarisea SK5000 in favour of the Innovitech X Filter 1.7. Yes I know I should have done it in the first place but..... This can handle significantly more flow to around 10000 lph

So I drove down to Leicester to meet Chris and his wife and collected the X Filter and a spare 25 micron role, and if your reading this thanks for making me so welcome.

I have to say, it’s beautifully designed, made, and although there’s clearly a great deal of science and thinking gone into by the manufacturers, it’s just such a simple but solid design.

So for the 3rd time I’ve installed the down pipe plumbing, including ball valves on each for ease of removal on 40mm pipework and this basically fits into the back of the X Filter.

Because of the depth of the first section of my sump, I’ve had to go for the highest setting on the bracket to achieve around 15cm water depth, so effectively the rear chamber sits level with the top of the sump glass. It says be careful with flow rates, but the water looks like in an emergency it will flow out of the large gap in the front, which is lower than the sump glass anyway. I’ve checked a few of the beta testers videos and at least one has it on the same level as mine.

The main downpipe and emergency, both sit about 7cm into the rear chamber of the X Filter as per the instructions. It looks a little high and odd, but it’s to create the vortex’s the fling the waste into the filter chamber.

So here’s a few pictures of my final (hopefully!) downpipe plumbing

I would also like to thank Charterhouse Aquatics for agreeing to allow me to return the Clarisea which has been built. So if any of you want one prebuilt give them a call in around 7 days because they’ll have a precision built one ready for you!

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Nobbygas

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For your water test you must give the Fire Service two weeks advanced noticed if you want a Fire Engine on stand-by outside. They don't just put out fires, but they can pump out loads of water as well.

The first picture, the down pipe on the right. Will that have water dropping out of it?
 
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SPR

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For your water test you must give the Fire Service two weeks advanced noticed if you want a Fire Engine on stand-by outside. They don't just put out fires, but they can pump out loads of water as well.

The first picture, the down pipe on the right. Will that have water dropping out of it?
Ha ha ha ha haaaa...! Lol

Yes water comes out of both pipes, the one on the right is the emergency drain. It’s high to create vortex’s for the X Filter but when the filter starts working, and fills with water, the drains are below the surface so silent. It’s only during the initial start up you will get some noise.
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
Ha, ha, remember how we panicked when started up the S-650? I think this beast will have you cacking your underpants !

You must be getting close to getting the inside of that glass wet? How is the rock scaping coming along?
 
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SPR

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Ha, ha, remember how we panicked when started up the S-650? I think this beast will have you cacking your underpants !

You must be getting close to getting the inside of that glass wet? How is the rock scaping coming along?
Lol! I know!

Its getting very close now to getting things ‘wet’.

Im just waiting for delivery on Monday of some more plumbing parts for the UVC and chiller and then all the plumbing will be done, apart from the spare return which I haven’t decided on yet.

The Abyzz pumps are supposed to be super reliable, I can get a new one/replacement/spare next day if need be, I was going to get the Apex COR20 as I can control the power remotely for the spare return pipe, but I’m thinking it’s just something to clean and maintain so...... I’m still giving this some thought and it’s something I can add whenever later on in any case as it’s a completely separate system/pipework.


I chose the COR20 over Ecotech Vectra L2, simply because it’s integrated into Apex under one system. The idea being if the main pump failed I could turn the COR20 on and then adjust the power from anywhere in the world. I know the L2 can use Reeflink, but it’s just so much easier if it’s within Apex.

My idea on the aquascape design has changed somewhat in the last few days. I’ve got to remember it’s what the corals look like in 3-4 years + rather than what the bare rocks look like at the start. I remember this and the need to add higher rocks in the S650 for more corals.
 
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melvis

Well-Known Member
Wow, been a while since I read your thread Shaun and I've now caught up on about 20 odd pages worth - and what a new build! Looks amazing and with an equipment list most would envy. Congrats and look forward to seeing this come alive.
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
Lol! I know!

Its getting very close now to getting things ‘wet’.

Im just waiting for delivery on Monday of some more plumbing parts for the UVC and chiller and then all the plumbing will be done, apart from the spare return which I haven’t decided on yet.

The Abyzz pumps are supposed to be super reliable, I can get a new one/replacement/spare next day if need be, I was going to get the Apex COR20 as I can control the power remotely for the spare return pipe, but I’m thinking it’s just something to clean and maintain so...... I’m still giving this some thought and it’s something I can add whenever later on in any case as it’s a completely separate system/pipework.


I chose the COR20 over Ecotech Vectra L2, simply because it’s integrated into Apex under one system. The idea being if the main pump failed I could turn the COR20 on and then adjust the power from anywhere in the world. I know the L2 can use Reeflink, but it’s just so much easier if it’s within Apex.

My idea on the aquascape design has changed somewhat in the last few days. I’ve got to remember it’s what the corals look like in 3-4 years + rather than what the bare rocks look like at the start. I remember this and the need to add higher rocks in the S650 for more corals.
Yeah, as you already have Apex then it makes sense to go for the COR20.
With the aquascape don't forget to leave room on the sandbed for the massive sunken galleon (with optional air bubbles and red LED lighting inside).

C'mon man, where are the pictures of the aquascape attempts !
 
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SPR

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Wow, been a while since I read your thread Shaun and I've now caught up on about 20 odd pages worth - and what a new build! Looks amazing and with an equipment list most would envy. Congrats and look forward to seeing this come alive.
Thanks Martín and welcome back!
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
Yeah, as you already have Apex then it makes sense to go for the COR20.
With the aquascape don't forget to leave room on the sandbed for the massive sunken galleon (with optional air bubbles and red LED lighting inside).

C'mon man, where are the pictures of the aquascape attempts !
Patience! Lol

We are nearly there, the UVC is nearly plumbed in (just need a couple of clamps) the Twin Tech Calcium reactor is arriving tomorrow and once I know how big it is and we’re it’s going I can decide we’re to put the Teco chiller.

On the rockwork I’ve actually been waiting for some guests to go (my wife’s brother who lives in California) so I can take back control of ‘my’ dining room. Basically cover the table with rocks so I can see what I have in terms of shapes etc. I have 6 boxes totalling 150kg although I may need some more

Once the rocks are out, I’ll let my artistic talents do the rest!
 
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melvis

Well-Known Member
Thanks Shaun, seem to float in and out lately lol. Moved house earlier this year and after cleaning the tank in July, have finally just placed an order for natural sea water to get it back up and running after some building work finished.

My C-130 ain't a patch on your new build lol. Oh and great pics from Galapagos as well.
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
I’ve also ordered one of these which is coming tomorrow. I’m fed up with trying to look through the Red Sea refractometer having calibrated it however many times before getting a reading I think might be reasonable

The only time I actually use it to be fair, is when the Apex salinity probe needs cleaning and goes haywire and I need to calibrate it back again. I calibrate Apex to the refractometer when I’m happy the water is at 35ppm.

https://www.hannainstruments.co.uk/hi-98319-waterproof-salinity-tester.html
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
Thanks Shaun, seem to float in and out lately lol. Moved house earlier this year and after cleaning the tank in July, have finally just placed an order for natural sea water to get it back up and running after some building work finished.

My C-130 ain't a patch on your new build lol. Oh and great pics from Galapagos as well.

The Galapagos was breathtaking Martin, it really was so thank you and more pictures to come on that

The new tank is massive, but the funny thing is you sort of get used to it, so in my mind it looks normal! Lol

Although it’s not wet yet, the Radions are all running so it’s very effective in the evenings as I get the reflection from the S650 from it as well.
 
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Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
I’ve also ordered one of these which is coming tomorrow. I’m fed up with trying to look through the Red Sea refractometer having calibrated it however many times before getting a reading I think might be reasonable

The only time I actually use it to be fair, is when the Apex salinity probe needs cleaning and goes haywire and I need to calibrate it back again. I calibrate Apex to the refractometer when I’m happy the water is at 35ppm.

https://www.hannainstruments.co.uk/hi-98319-waterproof-salinity-tester.html
I very rarely test the Salinity. With no water changes there isn't really the need to do so. I do lose salt through the Skimmer wastage, but it is minimal and I suppose I may check the salinity once every four months or so. If needed I just mix some salt with RODI water in a one liter jug and pop it into the sump.
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
I very rarely test the Salinity. With no water changes there isn't really the need to do so. I do lose salt through the Skimmer wastage, but it is minimal and I suppose I may check the salinity once every four months or so. If needed I just mix some salt with RODI water in a one liter jug and pop it into the sump.
I’ve got it mainly to check the new saltwater in the ‘fish room’ outside as constantly calibrating the refractometer would drive me mad!

So depending on what it reads the salinity in the current tank may need slowly adjusting, or it might not.
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
So guess what. The Neptune Apex ATK has failed, well the pump won’t work in the S650! It’s only been in about 2-3 weeks or something like that.

Ive reported it to Neptune, taken it to pieces to check for blockages (it’s in an RODI container and brand new!) and have had a reply and just waiting for another reply having taken the new pump to pieces and it still doesn’t work

I’ll see what happens but the 2nd I purchased for the new tank is going back for a refund.

i was going to get the Tunze which I had before, and interestingly I tested it yesterday having thought it had failed in the S650 and it was working, so maybe the sensor just needed a good clean and dry out.

I only didn’t get the Tunze Osmolator because I didn’t think the wires would be long enough for the new system, but I put it in position yesterday and it does fit. So at the moment I’ll see what happens but I think I’m going to get another Tunze.

Ive also ordered one of these for a backup in the new system. It’s ridiculous that with all the technology the most reliable piece of kit, certainly in the S650, has been the plastic ATO float system which has worked flawlessly!!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079G2W4W4/
 

Nobbygas

Well-Known Member
I still use the bog standard (no pun intended) plastic ATO float valve on my S-650. It works. Now and again (about every six months) I have to remove it from the little rubber hose and fully open the valve for a few seconds before resetting it, and that is all the maintenance required.
For the price of the Neptune Apex ATK I think you're better off with a Tunze.
 
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SPR

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Yep I know you still use the float ATO. If it wasnt for needing more capacity for holidays so would I.

Thats why I’m going to put one in the new tank as backup. It’s basic but works
 

SPR

Well-Known Member
I think where I’m heading is back to the Tunze Osmolator for the new tank and I’m going to return the 2nd Apex ATK for a refund and depending on what happens with Neptune support, if I can return the one installed in the S650 I will.

The design of it is brilliant, if it works fine, but the one I have doesn’t reliably, and I have better things to worry about than something that should be doing it’s job but isn’t. The S650’s currently using the built in Red Sea float ATO which is faultless. This costs about £10 not £200!

The Tunze needs a little help for tanks over 1000 litres so I’ll be getting the Tunze power socket outlet, which basically means I can attach a more powerful pump and wider tubing for it for the larger water volume.

https://www.tunze.com/GB/en/details/3150.110-controlled-power-socket.html

By doing this and by getting longer tubing, I can also eliminate the risk of siphoning from the 425 litre RODI water tank into the sump as the sump is lower than the top of the water tank.

Siphon problems have always been in my mind, so I’ll install a piece of plastic pipe at the back of the tank, with the inlet at the top much higher than the water level in the water tank, and then the pipe will go vertically down into the return part of the sump. The Tunze outlet hose will then be placed and secured into the top of the pipe and as it’s higher than the water tank maximum water level, there will be no siphon issue when the pump turns off.

So that’s a bit of an update and more to come as I’ve been busy......
 
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